Crankturner

Also posted this in the CLS55 section, but I'm thinking the issue is similar on W211's. Just looking for some help on this, getting desperate at this point

So I successfully installed new front bearings on the front wheels. But after starting it up and driving off, the Brake service error came up, then immediately after the ABS and ESP error came on, so now the power steering tightened up, no cruise control, active lighting, etc. and it's in that strange limp mode. Can not get it to go away. All I'm finding on other forums and threads are people replacing brake switches and other stuff unrelated to the brakes themselves. The car drove perfectly fine prior to installing the new bearings, aside from a howl at 50+mph due to the bad bearings before.

The back seal with the spring in it is flush on the hub, and the contact for the speed sensor is clean on both sides. That is the only thing I can imagine is causing an issue, so I disassembled all of my work and re-checked everything again tonight, and the issues are still there.

Any ideas?? Any help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks

mersum1es

I think it is speed sensor magnetic ring, either its damaged, or gap between sensor and ring is not correct (very sensitive). Sorry cannot help you further, never done this myself.

Plutoe

Before you go AS, find someone with good diagnostics who can determine the fault--then clear the fault------after riding around does the fault return.

PS: at any point in the fix did you disconnect the battery and or wheel speed sensor, just yes or no!!

Crankturner

Battery = Yes
Wheel sensor = not to my knowledge, no.

I did see someone offer 2 tips. First about the coil spring in the seal of the hub, to make sure I used the right one. I just used the one that came with the bearing kit. And the old seal that came off had the same type of coil in it, so I'm hoping that's not the culprit.
Also, turning the wheels lock to lock 3 times each side, and holding it at lock each time? While the engine is running, to reset the angle sensor. Could this work as well? I'll be trying this tonight or tomorrow, and also re-checking everything again to be sure, before diving into other troubleshooting steps.

Crankturner

Well I took it apart again, checked the speed sensors this time and cleaned them. The seals are identical to the ones that were removed, metal seal itself and also the coiled ring inside are both magnetic. Put it all back together and this time it did roll about 30ft before the errors all came back

This time it sputtered and the abs/esp errors went on and off again a few times. Then, the car wouldn't accelerate!! I stepped on the gas pedal over and over and it wouldn't not move. I managed to pull into someone's driveway and put it in reverse. When I went back into drive it finally moved again. I'm lost at this point. It has no problems before I changed the bearings, aside from the bad bearings.

I should also mention that I've been getting an error right at startup that says something along the lines of "low voltage convenience features not available" but then it says all features available again like 5 minutes later...this started happening about a week before I did the bearings. But the esp and abs stuff started immediately after the bearings swap.

mersum1es

You have battery drain problem, and low voltage may do all kind of gremlins around the car. Try to find current leak, charge battery full, and then read/clear fault codes (tons of them because low voltage). Try to find if is it speed sensor at all (still sounds it) which is causing ABS/ESP. Only other thing I could think, is lateral acceleration sensor/yaw sensor which would trigger only when driving circle.

Crankturner

Just an update...

Gave in and took it to the dealer. They said it's an issue with the gap between the sensor and the hub, then they said the inner bearing was frozen on the spindle, and wanted $3,500 for new spindle/knuckle assemblies and new hubs ...I nearly fainted. I literally took a deep breath and my vision went black for a couple seconds, I could not believe my ears. I said please put it back together as best you can and thank you for your time. I did manage to get a detail and wash out of it, a $300 detail and wash.... ($155 diagnostic fee, and $145 labor charge for his time)

So I am going to order 2 new Bilstein hubs w/ bearings already pressed and greased and just go from there. The spindles are fine, and unfortunately I'm now a pro at removing stuck bearings from spindles. Got 2 new speed sensors just in case so I will try those and report back. Ordering everything next week..

MercFiveHundred

Frozen inner bearing - how much did you tighten the spindle nut?

vettdvr

IF you bought an identical bearing and it doesn't have the Mercedes chamfer on the inner race it will bind up when tightened and not seat properly.

Crankturner

If you are correct, then that is likely THE cause, or one of the causes of this mess. It did not have the chamfered edge like the stock inner bearing did. The seals in the new kit were identical, but not the bearings themselves. Incredible, never again will I purchase parts for this car at rockauto, a very very expensive lesson was learned in all this, believe me....

I posted this in the CLS forums -

The spindle was fine from what I could see, no discoloration of any kind, or noticeable damage either. But what I think I'm going to do now is get a set of used spindles with the hubs/bearings still installed, there are a few sites that have them for $300-400 or so shipped, per side.

I think I just messed up at some point with this bearing install, whether it was caused by non-oem parts or a mistake on my part, and would like this mess to just be over with. I'll deal with the "new" used bearings needing to be replaced inevitably at a later date. THEN I will purchase the oem or the oem-equivalent Bilstein hubs and hopefully the install will be much easier than trying to pack the bearings myself like I did this time.

Thanks for the tip on that scanner, I do have one now but it's fairly basic compared to the one you linked (Autel MD802 Elite scan tool), I'll definitely look into that one next!

Crankturner

Just wanted to post an update here. I ended up buying 2 used spindles on ebay for $120 each, shipped. They both included used bearings/hubs. Sure enough, all the issues went away as soon as those were installed. It's been driving perfectly now for well over a month Thanks for all the tips!

RCPDesigns

Thanks for the update and 'closure'. Saving money with DIY has its ups and downs but I think it is better in the long run. You learn some lessons and some of them are expensive but you do learn and the next mistakes will be less expensive and less frequent. Congrats on fixing the last problem for $240 rather than $3500.

a.kh

hi
can u plz send a picture of the spindles because i have the same problem with my w211
it will be very helpful and thankful

Crankturner

No Problem. Here is a picture from the auction page of the item I purchased.




$99 + 25 shipping

Crankturner

That's absolutely right. I'm learning as I go, but hopefully no more big mess up's like this again. No more cheap or discount parts again, ever I met up with Loungn14 (Jake from Eurocharged.com) just today and had him flash a tune on it, amazing so far! What a difference.

unhcampus

Problem solved. I just replaced my bearings, race, and seals and when I drove off, ABS and ESP failure. I was surprised to see this because I used OEM parts to prevent it.

What caused the problem was I did not install the inner seal flush with the hub. It was about 1mm counter sunk. this created a larger distance from the sensor. I removed the seal, and installed a new one flush with the hub. Problem solved.

So my advice;
1. Use OEM seals so you know the magnetic sensor is built it.
2. Install the seal FLUSH with the hub so the distance to the sensor is correct.
3. Make sure seal and sensor are clean and free from grease.
4. Do one side at a time and test drive to isolate any issues.

BenzVince

Very good insights and a lot of great info. I was having problem troubling shooting my mom 2000 S430 when I did the new bearings inner and outer along with the ring I ran into problem trying to troubleshoot why the speedo was not working and the ESP/BAS was acting stupid. I was looking thinking I missed something but now you just solved the problem since I did use rock auto parts. So I just informed my Ma that she need to get genuine MB parts. SO I can fix it properly,

Mikemid

I recently replaced the bearings on 2007 E320 Bluetec. Very simple job if you rent or own bearing driver set from any autoparts store. Where i ran into a nightmare was the Easiest part which is the MAGNETIC Wheel Hub Seal which you place before sliding the Hub. You get one shot once seal is in. My Advice is DO NOT PUSH THE WHEEL HUB SEAL all the way into the Hub. I did this 3 times and RUINED 3 Seals. It is impossible to take out the seal once it is in without damaging it. Instead leave it 2 to 3 mm above hub. Then slide the hub and snug the hub nut and rotate the hub. If it DOES NOT TOUCH the Spindle Backing where the ABS Sensor is then you are golden and Will not have the ABS ESP error. If the Hub seal is Far from the ABS sensor, the sensor Does NOT pickup the Magnetic Seal signal by Hall effect. The Difference can be in terms of mm even 1 mm. If the seal is out too far and rubbing the Spindle face then take out the hub and push the seal another 2 mm gently with a press of Rubber mallet on a wooden block. REMEMBER IF you Push the Seal too far, you will lose the Hall effect and ABS ESP error will light up.

Some have stated it should be Flush with Hub. Maybe....In my case Flush meant it was too far from ABS sensor and the ABS ESP error showed up. It really depends on the Bearings and Race set used......Aftermarket varies so you have to start with the above procedure. Otherwise, you will need 3 or 4 seals to get it right.

I hope this helps someone.

Sickspack

did you only put the hub on or the whole spindle knuckle with 4 ball joints?

Sickspack

I was wondering if the entire spindel was installed or jus the hub