When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I used a compressor that I have in my garage. You need some higher psi I think mine is rate at 125psi. I wouldn’t be surprised if you could use one from the gas station to make it happpen. Also helps to jack up the car so it doesn’t have to lift it up while inflating
Originally Posted by georgiabenz
I have built my bypass valve but I am having trouble inflating the strut. What did you use as an air source for inflating?
So after testing the front right strut, turns out it was defective. Called Arnott, they were super helpful, sent me out a new one under warranty. Swapped it out Friday and so far all is well. Car rides great and maintains its level overnight. Thanks everyone for the help in diagnosing this!
I am having trouble getting air into the strut with my bypass valve. I am using a garage compressor rated at 150 PSI. I stumbled across a video that showed a mechanic applying 12 volts to the electrical connector on the strut (NOT the computer side) to open the valve. I have a 2007 E550 so it may work differently than yours.
Glad to hear you got it all sorted out! Did you end up using the bypass valve to test it?
I couldn't get the bypass valve to work, but I ended up making basically a plug with an old air fitting since most of the air was trapped in the strut when I disconnected the air line, and overnight the strut leaked down so I knew that the strut must be the issue.
What size lines did you buy? I have a 2000 S500 and I need to make one of these
Originally Posted by 2010-s550
Have you thought about testing to make sure the strut itself isn’t leaking? I just did that yesterday and my front right needs to be replaced. It’s actually tricky to find out how to do it online but it’s really easy...essentially you are just isolating the strut from the system to make sure it holds pressure and has no leaks. Take a look at page 29 of the PDF I attached in my previous post.
It it shouldn’t cost you more than $10-$15 to make it you can use it to fill the strut and monitor the PSI level to ensure it’s not leaking. I was able to find all the parts on amazon with next day delivery. Lemme know if you need any help!
I had the rear drop last week. Plugged in my (Foxwell GT80 Plus) and was shocked at all the options I had. Originally purchased it for my Maserati because it had the features I needed for resets. This unit allowed me to control each strut up down and degree tilt. Tested speed sensors, height sensors, strut, pump, valve block, dampers, release valves and lines in between. Found the height sensor front left was stuck at (127) and a low voltage around 1.6V. So I replaced it and tested it out perfectly. The problem is that were I couldn’t get the left to function and it was tossing bad reports on the others until replaced. Now I show weaknesses in the right and rear modules so I’ll replace them to get it right. This make sense since the pressure of the arm on the sensor was pretty loose when i took it off compared to the new one. These are $30 ea. Good thing is everything checked out until I got to the pump test right and rear sensors. So now the left works, and the front right won’t lift. Shows -88mm, front left is at +14. The sensors by the way should test out voltage around 3.3V. The rear was showing .51V and the right only 1.8V. So need replacement. This does not guarantee everything will be all good. But it’s he next step. Could still be s frayed wire. But I’ll know as soon as they’re installed, So at the same time my pump reports an error, but it does run so I’m going to wait. Now since the right won’t go up and errors, but the test shows the strut getting air, dampers check out, release valve and air hose are good but still not going up, I’m hopeful the sensors will bring it up. Check out this device and what it can do on a 03’.
charlesb2003, I have the exact same issue. Only my front right strut inflates and deflates abnormally. I have changed it twice now but the problem hasn't gone away. Any ideas?
Have you thought about testing to make sure the strut itself isn’t leaking? I just did that yesterday and my front right needs to be replaced. It’s actually tricky to find out how to do it online but it’s really easy...essentially you are just isolating the strut from the system to make sure it holds pressure and has no leaks. Take a look at page 29 of the PDF I attached in my previous post.
It it shouldn’t cost you more than $10-$15 to make it you can use it to fill the strut and monitor the PSI level to ensure it’s not leaking. I was able to find all the parts on amazon with next day delivery. Lemme know if you need any help!
we need one of these but connected to a compressor that we use for power tools.
my bags/struts are not blown because when the car is ready on a lucky day it will raise to regular ride height and ride comfortably
When I turn the car on I used to hear the air getting distributed to the struts/bags. But now when I start the car the compressor comes on but you don't hear the "air" getting to the struts/bags then after 15 seconds or so the pump turns off and I get the "Visit Workshop" message
The reason why I didn't make him fix it is because why just throw the money at the valve block when I am not 100% sure
this happened to me before. drove about 30min and got gas, then all of the sudden all 4 went up. whats the deal with that? now it's all dumped
Without more detail about what you're talking about, all I can say is:
It won't hold air and the suspension will go down. You won't hear air escaping because it will be slow and the compressor acts like a muffler to silence any possible noise.
If you suspect the valve block and your suspension goes up but won't stay up, remove the short compressor hose from the block and use soapy water on the fitting. If it's leaking you'll get bubbles. If you don't get bubbles, it isn't leaking back through the valve block and your problem is elsewhere.
Beyond that, we need to know what's going on with your system. The most likely cause for a non functioning airmatic system is a blown airbag, blown rear shock, bad/worn compressor, or cracked line. Some of the early systems developed a crack on the reservoir tank seam but those should have all been taken care of by now. So the problem is usually not the block though it's always possible.
good info. Why would there be a blast of air at a strut?
This is the built I need for my GL350. Mine pumps air, airbags holds air BUT DOES NOT GO UP!!
So I am going to put one of these at all 4 corners of my rig, for now! Thank You for this idea
Hey all,
I have a 2012 e63 and it drops the rear (only rear air suspension) randomly. Sometimes it stays up for a few days. Other times it drops over night. occasionally I put in sports suspension and it more regularly stays up.
I assume the only thing it could be is the valve Box. Any other leaks in bags or lines would lead to consistently dropping.
any other explanations. Thanks much for the help. Reluctant to start changing bags and lines without a clear cause.
I need help fast and urgent as I'm at the verge of making a mistake...
my w164 airmatic had a leak on front passenger side and I changed it and from then...it has been running constantly only when I'm driving..
The level is always normal even after parked for 3days or more...but when I turn on the car...the compressor runs for a few seconds and stops...
My concern is why the compressor runs when I drive and stops when I slow down or stop.
I have changed the compressor yesterday and the problem won't go away...
I think I might end up burning up the compressor if I don't find the problem..
i also scanned with a machine and even calibrated the entire system yet the problem persist.
What can be symptoms of a bad airmatic valve block?
Mine was completely not letting any air through. It would get the compressor feed but none of the air coming through 5 output ports to either wheels or reservoir tank
Mine was completely not letting any air through. It would get the compressor feed but none of the air coming through 5 output ports to either wheels or reservoir tank
On my E500 airmatic the pump wiring had rubbed on the wheel well, corroded and shorted causing weird and whimsical issues.
What can be symptoms of a bad airmatic valve block?
I'm sorry to have been throwing my 50 pence in the thread about valve block but I see you are all debating about the valve block but follow the logic, what's most likely to fail given the fact that valve has no movement unlike the air strut.
now the easiest way to check if it's a leaking strut is to lift the corner with a jack. The more you lift it, the greater the hissing sound. Drop it dow and you'll see the strut is empty. Healthy strut won't lose air when slightly lifted. So hissing sound and/or rapid air escape = bad air cushion (air bag)
w211 /219 are easy to just replace the front cushion no need to change the strut if it's ok.
rears need to be activated as you are replacing the valve(integrated) as well.
pull each line off the valve block. Check for corrosion where the rubber grommet of the air line fitting seats into the slight recess on the face of the valve block.
If ANY of those recessed seats are corroded, just replace the valve block. Got mine on ebay for $70? and it's held up over a year.
also check out mercedes source online, old mercedes guy who has a bunch of youtube videos and a website that can help with diagnosis.
Wow, that Foxconn diagnostic unit looks like it has more options to test than my version of Star/Xentry/DAS in that mine has no pneumatic tests for that aforesaid valves. Mine only shows you what the voltages, pressure and the measure of how many millimeters the ride height is away from the “Calibrated level”. But that may be those pneumatic tests didn’t exist for the early 2007 (ie- June 2006) E63. I’ve seen others on this forum show more advanced test menu’s that I don’t have in my year/version of STAR/DAS.
I’ve just rebuilt my entire suspension since that CCP virus was deployed and during the process of attempting to correct a slight pull to the right with alignment techniques, whereas the tech said he’s over corrected the rear toe as much as he is willing suggesting the problem may be with my Airmatic, and whereas I know each new strut will hold in various circumstances, I noticed while having DAS running on my laptop while driving that while going from one side of the crown in the highway to the other that the levels were at times well under the standard -10mm that happens when you go over 65 mph! I’m talking about moments where I though my eyesight was playing tricks on me due to the constant fluctuations of the readings while driving. But there were times that the readings showed -20 to -30mm which when driving led me to have unnecessary fears of bottoming out! I don’t know if it’s a built-in restriction or not, but whenever I would push the F3 key to initiate a correction in level while driving, nothing seemed to happen. I would then exit checking to see if the level would correct but it seemed to do so very slowly. When coming to a parking stop I would have to reload DAS while unplugging and restart the car to then be able to reset ride height, but when I did so, I saw for the first time a warning in DAS stating “Compressor requires 3 minutes to cool down”! This only confirms that for some reason the compressor was overworking! The question is WHY? Since the compressor is also new, that leaves the Valve Block (the one obvious component in Airmatic that I didn’t replace). Sometime my ride stays put while sitting in the garage, others NOT! So, I have a VB being delivered today and I’ll see if that solves the problem!!
Isolated to rear, next step check rear level sensor, valve block, and rear axle distributor. All seem fine, could be pressure line between valve block & distributor. Also depending on age both air springs could be leaking internally.
03-05-2019, 09:04 PM
