When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I read that you need to code the new SBC pump to your car through the control unit adaptations menu. Can you confirm you didn't have to do that?
THIS?
I had my car in the MB shop to get the valve cover gaskets done the other day and I asked what they would charge to put my new SBC pump (purchased from FCP Euro back in MAY) into the car and the quote came back at around $1,300 (labor). When I picked the car up yesterday, the shop foreman who was working on my car confirmed to me that it does need to be coded with STAR. I bought it to replace my original as preventative maintenance, but just haven't gotten to it yet.
I am now wanting to get this done, but don't really have much interest in not doing it absolutely correctly. I also don't have much interest in spending $1,300 to do exactly what is described in this DIY. I do have a STAR computer, but I have not seen anything anywhere on coding it or how to do it? Its possible the foreman was referring to was "activating, deactivating and resetting actuations", but he was pretty specific in mentioning coding.
Yeah I didn't code it, I only activated it through the steps shown above. I guess by code may vin lock when activated, however I am not entirely sure. I think that's the reason you can't just buy a used one that hasn't been properly deactivated. The only steps I didn't show was bleeding the brakes since someone else made a thread on that, and there was an option to test for air in the lines which does it all automatically.
Kind of crazy to charge this much. It took about 30 minutes to go through the entire process, which included bleeding the fluid. I had my shop do it while I 'helped' (more like watched). Replacing the SBC unit itself was only about an hour, less actually.
I am playing with my new toy - $140 scanner and this is what options it show.
This one does not show pedal push count, but I guess once I reset it, I don't have to worry about it for a while.
I bet the quoted labor pricing included "learning curve".
Somebody has to learn how to do it and somebody has to pay for it.
I bet the quoted labor pricing included "learning curve".
Somebody has to learn how to do it and somebody has to pay for it.
It's interesting you say that. When I questioned the pricing to the service advisor he said the they needed to order some parts to complete the SBC swap. They needed some sort of "grounding wire" and and some sort of "suction device". I didn't press him on it since I already decided that I would do it myself once i heard the price, but I have no clue what he was referring to.
The foreman mentioned that he had a "few hours" worth of brake bleeding to do once the new SBC was installed. Again, that sounded excessive, but I have never swapped one myself.
I will poke around my star computer tonight and see what the actual Mercedes instructions call for.
It was the same with replacing pads on SBC system decade ago.
Mechanics were scared about unknown and quoted outrageous prices.
By now we all know how to easy do the job by not waking up SBC on sleeping car and scanners to disable the system become popular, so it is nothing big anymore.
Not to mention that my user-friendly scanner cost 100-some bucks -something what finally works and I could afford.
To follow up my own question from yesterday about coding. I just looked though WIS and there is nothing in the article "Remove/Install Sensotronic Brake Control (SBC) hydraulic unit" that mentions anything about coding a new SBC pump to the car. They do reference the "suction hose" and "grounding wire" that I heard from the technician, but I haven't seen that anywhere else on the forums. Here are some poor screen shots of those two items:
It's interesting you say that. When I questioned the pricing to the service advisor he said the they needed to order some parts to complete the SBC swap. They needed some sort of "grounding wire" and and some sort of "suction device". I didn't press him on it since I already decided that I would do it myself once i heard the price, but I have no clue what he was referring to.
The foreman mentioned that he had a "few hours" worth of brake bleeding to do once the new SBC was installed. Again, that sounded excessive, but I have never swapped one myself.
I will poke around my star computer tonight and see what the actual Mercedes instructions call for.
The grounding wire I believe became a forced dealer recall that made it so that if the SBC ever failed while driving you would have more stopping power. I know the suction device, was for people who complained that the SBC pump was too noisy, also that the pedal shook to much when it activated. It would also be called a dampener however the SBC unit never bother me when it activated. Me personally I would get the get the ground wire checked if you haven't gotten it to the recall.
I will say this out of all the people who complain about the SBC unit, I personally love it, yeah it would be nice if the unit was substantially cheaper and you didn't need a computer to swap them out. However paired with brand new brake pads, high end rotors, and a computer that can handle anything you throw at it, my CDI stops hard. This is all from R1 concepts top Premium series line.
Thought I would give a small update, SBC unit is doing great no squishy pedal or anything. I did however find out my new SBC unit now has SBC hold option. Not sure if they were programmed that way for USA, however mine has it. Not sure of how to turn it off in Xentry if I ever wanted to. Found this out by accident when stretching my legs and pressed the brake pedal further down.
Is it necessary to flush the brake fluid right after installation? or can I drive it and let my indy do it?
I am suppose to say the proper way is to flush right after installation. If you really don't feel comfortable bleeding them yourself with the machine. After installation just crack open the bleeder valves let out some air until fluid comes out, refill reservoir, then repeat. Should get enough air out to get to the mechanic. The whole safety thing try the brakes before taking off.
If I am a red light or stop sign waiting I can push the brake all the way down and the Mercedes will stay stopped until I hit the brake or accelerator pedal.
That's pretty cool!
Does it also work if you are in park or neutral?
Does the engine needs to be running in order for it to work?
I'm not sure why I'm asking but it seems like it could be a useful tool... i'm just wondering could be used as an all wheel e-brake...
That's pretty cool!
Does it also work if you are in park or neutral?
Does the engine needs to be running in order for it to work?
I'm not sure why I'm asking but it seems like it could be a useful tool... i'm just wondering could be used as an all wheel e-brake...
It only works on W212 forward. Engine does need to be on and will work in neutral, drive, or reverse.
Some good news for Canadians with an SBC problem. MB Canada has extended the warranty out to 15 years parts and labour. I just confirmed with MB London (Ontario). The SBC is 100% covered on my '05 E320 with 180,000kms.
Does anyone know if a cheap ($125) Autel EBS301 Electric Brake Service Tool Diagnostic Car OBDII Scanner EPB SBC can replace the MB Multiplexer and Dell laptop?
Some good news for Canadians with an SBC problem. MB Canada has extended the warranty out to 15 years parts and labour. I just confirmed with MB London (Ontario). The SBC is 100% covered on my '05 E320 with 180,000kms.
Whaaaaaaat?? Really lucky, in the USA is just 10 year and in my country forget it.. not even the 10 years !
I feel quite fortunate in that respect. Unfortunately, the towing company that took my car to the dealer for the repair damaged the steering. So now I'm dealing with that.
11-17-2016, 02:10 PM
