E500 wagon transmission advice
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 54
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2004 E 500
E500 wagon transmission advice
I have a 2004 E500 4matic Wagon with 175K miles on it. I bought the car a couple years ago with about 150k on it. I was getting the shifting and shuddering problems shortly there after, so I swapped fluid and filter and changed the transfer case lube as well. Things have been working great since, but last week, the thing just quit working. It goes into gear, and tries to move, and makes a disheartening gronking /grinding sound while in gear.
My guess is the front pump has gone kaput, as the hydraulic whine I used to hear on startup has gone away along with the car's locomotion capabilities. I had thought that to be the power steering pump, but not so sure now.
Fluid level was fine, I have one the those dipstick tools to measure levels. The fluid, while a bit dark, does not smell burnt.
I've looked underneath, and have not found anything that would suggest an external drivetrain problem.
Given that the car "tries" to push while in gear, I'm thinking it's not conductor plate-related, but than I have no experience to draw upon for this car.
Next step today is drain the pan and check for flakes.
Any thoughts on what else I should be checking? I'm tempted to throw another transmission in the thing and be done, but if it's valve body or conductor plate related, it would be less trouble.
My guess is the front pump has gone kaput, as the hydraulic whine I used to hear on startup has gone away along with the car's locomotion capabilities. I had thought that to be the power steering pump, but not so sure now.
Fluid level was fine, I have one the those dipstick tools to measure levels. The fluid, while a bit dark, does not smell burnt.
I've looked underneath, and have not found anything that would suggest an external drivetrain problem.
Given that the car "tries" to push while in gear, I'm thinking it's not conductor plate-related, but than I have no experience to draw upon for this car.
Next step today is drain the pan and check for flakes.
Any thoughts on what else I should be checking? I'm tempted to throw another transmission in the thing and be done, but if it's valve body or conductor plate related, it would be less trouble.
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Is it 5sp or 7 sp ?
There is much more than transmission to car not moving while making noises.
Did you check CV joints, UV joints, flex discs?
On 5sp the leaky pilot bushing is very common issue.
There is much more than transmission to car not moving while making noises.
Did you check CV joints, UV joints, flex discs?
On 5sp the leaky pilot bushing is very common issue.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 54
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2004 E 500
5 spd. automatic of course.
car in gear, no brakes, push gas. gronk-gronk-gronk.
As I said, have checked the driveline underneath, everything is intact.
The one other thing I am chasing now is transfer case. I was able to spin the rear output shaft while holding the front stationary, but I can't remember if the trans was in park or neutral. I don't think that should be possible with the car in park, but will check it again tonight.
car in gear, no brakes, push gas. gronk-gronk-gronk.
As I said, have checked the driveline underneath, everything is intact.
The one other thing I am chasing now is transfer case. I was able to spin the rear output shaft while holding the front stationary, but I can't remember if the trans was in park or neutral. I don't think that should be possible with the car in park, but will check it again tonight.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
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For what you can buy decent mileage used trans/tcase there is almost no reason to do anything but throw one in.
I bought a 120k mile engine to put in my 211k mile wagon in case anything major happens to the engine.
I bought a 120k mile engine to put in my 211k mile wagon in case anything major happens to the engine.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,225
Likes: 1,798
From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Don't start putting new parts before you find what is wrong.
Since you have the noise, it should be easy to pinpoint, but we can't stick our heads under your car from here.
Since you have the noise, it should be easy to pinpoint, but we can't stick our heads under your car from here.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 54
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2004 E 500
The noise is clearly coming from the transmission.
What I'm trying to determine is if the transmission is worth trying to repair, or is R&R a better path.
unfortunately, I haven't yet shelled out the money for a star tec reader. Hopefully Shardul is still in business.
What I'm trying to determine is if the transmission is worth trying to repair, or is R&R a better path.
unfortunately, I haven't yet shelled out the money for a star tec reader. Hopefully Shardul is still in business.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,225
Likes: 1,798
From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Scanner will not show you broken transmission clutches.
You choose not to disclosure your location.
We do have guy in Sacramento area who rebuilds those, but that is rare. Buying used from ebay WITH WARRANTY is probably the best bet.
You choose not to disclosure your location.
We do have guy in Sacramento area who rebuilds those, but that is rare. Buying used from ebay WITH WARRANTY is probably the best bet.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 54
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2004 E 500
Yeah, I should get round to filling in the profile, since I'm in the thick of things now. Sack-a-mato is a bit of a haul from Central MA. 
That is exactly what bothers me the most, the car seems fine to start and run and doesn't show any errors. I was hoping against hope that it was a sheared CV joint, or guibo or some such, but it appears to be solid outside the cases.
the only other mechanical thing I could think of was the coupler from the trans to the transfer case somehow shearing, but I think that noise would be spectacular. This is much more subtle, kind of a grinding/scraping sound.
I've found 3 units in RI, about an hour's drive away, all with about 34k mi on them, for $1k ea. Another one is about 10 min from here with 36k mi, for $1200. I figure 2 hrs of my time is easily worth $200.
I'll do some more diagnostics tonight to make sure I've not missed anything mechanical, but at 180K, what have I to lose anyway?
That is exactly what bothers me the most, the car seems fine to start and run and doesn't show any errors. I was hoping against hope that it was a sheared CV joint, or guibo or some such, but it appears to be solid outside the cases.
the only other mechanical thing I could think of was the coupler from the trans to the transfer case somehow shearing, but I think that noise would be spectacular. This is much more subtle, kind of a grinding/scraping sound.
I've found 3 units in RI, about an hour's drive away, all with about 34k mi on them, for $1k ea. Another one is about 10 min from here with 36k mi, for $1200. I figure 2 hrs of my time is easily worth $200.
I'll do some more diagnostics tonight to make sure I've not missed anything mechanical, but at 180K, what have I to lose anyway?
