It seems our engines have three components to the VVT system for each cam.

I am getting a P0022, but am about to undertake a manifold replacement for a P2006, so I am wondering what all I should be doing.
I am getting a P0022, but am about to undertake a manifold replacement for a P2006, so I am wondering what all I should be doing.

It seems that the Camshaft Adjuster Magnet (Magnetic Sensor) - Mercedes 2720510177 is the part that fails most.

Has anyone ever had to replace the others?

I have heard mention of replacing O-rings, and it seems that only the Engine Camshaft Position Sensor - Mercedes 2729050043 Bosch 0232103114 has a o-ring?

If you pulled codes with OBDII, MB DAS may pull additional sub codes giving better detail. P0022 I suggest replacing all 4 magnets (part 2720510177) at this time.

Seems that P0022 is specific to one cam unless MB uses the code improperly.

At the cost, I figure doing all 4, but was wondering about the other cam sensors? Do they fail often? Do they usually show a different code?
If they are good, do you recommend pulling and replacing O-rings? (Guess I should look for oil seepage)

P0022 continuous camshaft adjustment (LEFT), incorrect position of the intake camshaft
P2006: http://www.mercedesmedic.com/mercede...le-lever-flap/

Yes I understand code relates to one magnet, reason I suggested to replace all 4 is dependent on current part # installed image in my post shows part # was revised and given cost best to have all current.

Do you know when it was revised. I had the magnets/Sensors (what ever the dealer did) don't a few years back. (about 2013, I think).

Again, I know they are cheap, so no worries, just wonder if I have a different problem this time?

If dealer, in fact, replaced all 4 solenoids (magnets) in 2013 they should be current – check invoice. If not up to engine # 30 759427 will have older part, engines produced after this should already be equipped with improved part.

So, if I decide just to replace the one "magnet"/"Magnetic Sensor", which is it?

Which bank is Bank-2? (I can find the Intake)

Also, some say to do the knock sensors while it is apart. How many are there?

Is the cam solenoid wiring harness recall installed?
Stiger is on it, replace all four of them bad boys.
If in fact you are replacing Manifold wouldn't be a bad idea to replace knock sensors since you are there but it's not a necessity. Think there are 4 of them, don't quote me though, never have I replaced them. I've replaced 1 for rodent damage and luckily it was the one closet to the firewall!

Bank 2 is drivers bank.

Mercedes engines are simple, bank 1 is passenger. 12345678. 1 is closest to right exhaust cam magnet 5 starts bank 2 and is next to ex cam magnet as well.

OK, doing more research. Thinking to only do the one that failed unless I see other issues like seeping oil.

Of course the one I need to do is behind the oil cooler! Ugg!

well if you have mani off i would suggest you clean the heck out of the cylinder head where all the carbon builds up. You could clean your t/b too since it will be off. Yeah, i would only do the one if money is of substance but then again, at the cost of the sensor should you save yourself the trouble? your judgment call hahaha.

it always works that way when you are doing it yourself!

It looks like neither pulling the manifold or changing one makes changing the others significantly easier.

The only one that would be a tad easier would be the drivers exhaust. And even that one would require that I pull the power steering pump reservoir, that is not needed for the drivers side intake (The bad one.)

I am going to take a good hard look to see where oil may be seeping from, so I may pull some of the cam sensors to replace the o-rings.

I am guessing I should replace the MAF lower and upper gaskets.

I would like to keep the keep the costs reasonable, since this is not a "forever" car. It is a daily driver that has served well for 140K miles and only needs to make another 60K/4 years to hit our goal.

I will be cleaning the visible portion of the intakes in the head.
I also intend on cleaning the throttle body.
I am trying to decide what to do with the injectors.
I will, at the least soak the tips in injector cleaner, and replace both seals.
I was wondering if dropping the whole injectors into a cup on cleaner is a good or bad idea since I don't know how well the electrical connector would like the cleaner.

Where is oil seeping from? Like what area? Pcv may be what you are seeing which is normal, to a certain extent.

The injectors are fine. Personally I only change the green o-rings. To me the risk of replacing all the injctor seals is too high, at that point get new ones imo. They can be a real pita sometimes. Not like resealing high pressure Direct Injection injectors, but still at times a pita.
I would do a fuel induction service and replace plugs instead of fooling with injectors. That's a can of worms honestly. But this is personal opinion.

if oils leaking from front of engine you got cam magnets, cam sensors. oil filter housing, p/s pump.

how old is your oil cap? is it worn?

I know there is some from the back, so I am doing the vent and three plugs.
The front has some signs of seepage with a layer of dust/road grime.
I figure I will pull the covers and give it a good looking over before I order the parts for the intake and cam magnet replacement.
The injectors have to be pulled for the intake replacement. Seems if I am careful I might get the injectors out of the manifold without having them come off the fuel rails.
I am assuming that I will screw up and if one or more come off the rails, I am guessing that new O-rings are a whole lot easier to seal than 10 year old 140K mile O-rings.
So if I have to pull the injectors, what is the preferred procedure?

I did not think about a new cap, but I did have a bad one on my GL320, so it makes sense and they are not too pricy.

Do these things actually have a PCV, or are you talking about the vent/oil trap vent on the back of the right head?

The work is being prompted by;
1) the intake replacement, (P2006)
2) the Left Intake Magnet replacement (P0022)
3) A little oil burning small, (I assume the vent)

The rest of the work is clean up so I can ignore it for 2 to 4 more years.

remove the 4 e-10's that hold fuel rail to manifold. obviously disconnect injectors. Use a pry bar starting at cylinder 1 area and gently wiggle/pry up on fuel rail. then work your way around the rest of the corners and once its dislodged from manifold i just lay it over the brake booster still connected to fuel line. it'll be out of the way and you can still replace o-rings on injectors. re-installing is the same except i lube the o-rings, not necessary just creature of habit unless prohibited not too, and a few taps with a rubber hammer and it's in like flynn.

yes, centrifuge cover is pcv essentially. Same idea different concept. Good luck!!!!

If you are replacing whole manifold and do not obtain air tools or something strong enough to tap untapped holes, you will need to hand tighten or tap holes on mani. Brackets for "ME", fuel rail i think, t/b, and wiring harness t-30's..... all the holes are untapped.

Sound like if I am careful I can keep the injectors in the rail.
I guess if I don't undo the clips as one of the YoueTube video shows, I should be ok?


I lube most o-rings with a light film on "Superlube" as it prevents the binding that keeps O-rings from seating properly or twisting on the way in.

I am looking at a "remanufactured" manifold that should have all home pre-tapped, and will use thread locker.

If I use new, I have plenty of air, but will probably pre-thread with a proper tap.

once you disconnect injector connectors and harness is moved, just pry up like photo and you'll be good. Start there and work ya way around.

battery powered pneumatic impact driver is all ya really need tbh.... some don't bend the rules though and actually tap, to each their own....

So those little clips should hold the injectors to the rail and let you pull them from the manifold? I hope murphy is not with me that day.

Unless it comes with new self-taping bolts, the old ones would get reused, and hence why I would at least start new threads. (But in all probability I will be using a reman manifold, so the holes will be threaded, and the bolts wil get a touch of blue loc-tite.

yes, once everything is loose and ready for removal if you are gentle you shouldn't have any issues removing rail. yes you can re-use the t-30's and e10s

This evening I am going to start the inspection, then get all the parts in to do the work in a couple of weeks.

Travel fro work has been crazy, and I can't risk having to fly out on a Monday, if the car did not get done.

Still looking for a comment on Rebuild Master Tech.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222162449329
http://www.rebuildmastertech.com/

is probably the same exact one stealerships mark up. Wouldn't be surprised if it is!

I am sure the dealerships love installing brand new MB stamped parts at full price plus gold plated markup.

This is true.
But if something effs up it's at a dealer and you get a rental and a 12month unlimited mileage warranty. so it's bitter sweet. some aren't diy, unlike your case. Save them pennies!!!!

Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner!

Seems that MBUSA has a very poor inventory system.
I ordered a "Camshaft Cam Position Sensor 2720510177" from their eBay store.

They shipped me a factory sealed case of 12 units.