albania

hello
my car when started and the engine is still cold, sometimes does a shut down when engaged gears, D or R, how can this be possible on automatic transmission?
I thought it was from the steering pump but it is ok
now I am sure it is from the gearbox, but how?
thanks

S70Houston

You seem to have A LOT of troubles with your car.

Have you ever thought about taking it to a MB Dealership or reputable Indy to go COMPLETELY THROUGH your car and diagnose and then address ALL OF YOUR ISSUES, to have a new start?

albania

Yes it has some problems, the dealer has not so good reputation here in Albania so I should fix most of the issues myself

SouthSideBenz

you should also consider that your fuel injectors may be clogged. I have a similar issue with my 97' c230 If I shift gears at low speed or idle and put my foot on the gas too soon it seizes up on me and shuts off

mersum1es

Fuel quantity valve /rail pressure valve. If they are ok check tranny oil, function of converter locking.

albania

fuel quantity valve and pressure rail valve I have checked one and even replaced to try the difference, but they were ok

the tranny oil and filter, I changed 1 week ago, replaced them with new one, I have used the car for 1-2 hours and then changed again with new ones, to flush everything again. The mechanic was telling about a valve in the transmission that opens and close if needed to have higher rpm or close if it is having lower rpm. Is this hte converter locking?

mersum1es

yes, probably he is referring that turbine locking solenoid (KÜB auf deutsch). Is the ATF level ok for sure (checked at right temperature, by dipstick)? You could try reset the adaptations of TCU (possible ONLY by star, that snake oil 'press gas pedal etcetc' trick wont reset actual TCU values).

albania

Hi
I changed the solenoid but still the same
it is s second time that the light of glow plugs is staying on for 1 minute after engine is started
and when gears are engaged and it starts to shake until is is stopping it is having smoke on the exhaust. Probably it works on 3 and maybe the glow plugs ard bad, so do you think it can cause engine stopping ???
it is happening only with cold engine so maybe the plugs keep the engine in balance during warmup???
if the car needs more power to start moving from idle then it doesn't take all the pistons in optimal load and then is shutting down with smoke in the exhaust
do you think the same????

mersum1es

Plug fault is separate, effects only how car starts.

Engine shutting is most likely caused by bad operation of turbine locking. Again; are you 100% sure tranny oil level is good?

Rarely it may be fuel related (pressure not stable), or EGR malfunction. Would neet to fault codes or live data measurement from fuel/tranny

albania

Tranny oil should be ok because it had this problem before tranny service
i have changed oil and filter twice to clean it
and this time I changed the solenoid also
the oil level was checked by them and probably is ok
when changed the solenoid they didn't check it again but collect and refull the same oil
egr is replaced 2 days ago because it was blocked
the turbo filter also replaced because it had a fixture broken
so my mercedes in general is ****ed and I am scared with it
I never had this experience with my previous cars and believe me I had a lot
fuel system should be ok because I had once high pressure on the common rail and after oil and filter changed it is disappeared. I have checked hp valve and regulator and were ok

cmriv

maybe the shifters taking a poooooo

albania

I dont think so because it is happening only once a day, when started for the first time
should be something related with the temperature of something ?!?!
my mechanic told me that the valve on the tranny has errors with voltage so it can be the battery. I never had issue with the battery so I don't like to change it just to try

cmriv

battery voltage during cranking needs to be sufficient. If it's not, then yeah shutdown could be possible and or limp mode. You need to do a voltage drop on the battery, during cranking. And if it's within spec i would be chasing that dtc you have in etc for voltage.

albania

during cranking, voltage should be ok, since the engine starts perfectly
after 2 minutes I let it on idle, then I engage D or R and then it shuts down
this is strange to me, why the battery needs to be perfect in a moment that it is under charging from the dynamo ?!

cmriv

NO. just because it starts and runs doesn't mean the conductor plate isn't in limp mode. If circuit 87 sees voltage drop to a certain point during cranking, limp mode can occur. since you have dtcs in etc for voltage it is more then likely a conductor plate. But i would make sure cranking voltage is within spec cause i've been burned on that before. Put a conductor plate in and still have faults in etc, simply because of the main systems battery.


and cycling the key and everything being fine after is the same standard for sbc red warning. cycle key and message goes away.....

albania

what if I try it with clamps to another battery??
another car with engine running, just to be sure it will have maximum capacity

rapidoxidation

A cheap voltmeter on the battery during cranking will tell you what is happening. Connecting to another car MIGHT solve the problem, but you won't KNOW unless you're actually measuring.

Not trying to be snarky, but it seems like you're discounting everything that everyone is telling you to check.
"it shouldn't be this..."
or
"I don't think so..."

Instead of assumptions, you've got to run some actual tests on the car. Check the battery voltage. Check the transmission fluid level. Check the fuel pressure. What codes are being thrown? Once you KNOW things, you can eliminate them as problems and move on to other possibilities.

This forum is a great resource if you follow through with people's suggestions.

albania

this is the voltage measurement
it is done after 5-6 days without starting the car, and it is the first try




the second video is after 4-5 minutes driving forward anf reverse, so gears dont shut down anymore hte car.
when engaging hte gears still seems to have a small impact on RPMs

albania

and the measurement of diesel pressure from dash command on iphone

cmriv

your meter needs to be in range mode. it measures highest voltage and lowest. I saw it dip to 10.6-7. Your meter is low end and may be able to measure it, but the only true data is in range mode. Post stats of it in range mode and report back. pretty sure voltage shouldn't drop to 10 summin during cranking but it's been some time since i've researched what the spec is.

albania

I have changed the battery !!

and still my car shuts down when it is started after 1 day and when engaged the gears
what about tranny oil pump ?? is it possible to fail when the oil is in standstill??

rapidoxidation

When the engine is turning, transmission parts are moving (and so is the oil). When you put the car in gear, you're just changing the valves that are open or closed to engage or disengage the desired clutch packs.

Does the car idle correctly when the transmission is in P and in N? If you have a valve body that isn't allowing all the gears to properly engage or disengage when they're supposed to then you might be trying to (for example) be in 1st gear AND 3rd gear at the same time and things are getting bound up. Then, once the drive train is warm, the stuck valve releases and things work as they should.
Just a thought.
A proper diagnosis (via computer - STAR) would probably reveal what the transmission is doing.

albania

The mechanic with star is not able to diagnose.
He had this idea and changed the valve that goes to hydro-torque converter.
Is it possible that they changed by mistake another one?

It shuts down when i directly start the car and only on the 4-5 first times of gear engagement.
If I fool it with engage-disengagement it will try to shut down but I disengage it and it will keep running, and after 4-5 times like this, it will work fine than. Strange !!

rapidoxidation

What happens if you're on a hill pointing down, start the car cold in neutral, get rolling, then drop it into gear? That might tell you if your torque converter is locked up or not...

cmriv

What transmission do you have? a 5 spd or 7 spd?

Your car shutting off is not going to be related to fluid. If something hydraulically was defective you may not be able to MOVE the vehicle but it won't cause a stall or shutoff. When a EHS (valve body) fails and or a conductor plate the trans wont shift or shifts very poorly. Conductor plate is electrical and even when it fails the car can still run fine, might not move correctly but it shouldn't shut off or stall.

If you front pump was taking a poo then the car wouldn't move..... Not sure what valve you are talking about but front pump is fluid based, no electronics in it to tell ecu or etc to kill vehicle. And even if fluid level or fluid pressure weren't adequate, it still wouldn't cause vehicle to stall or shut down.


you need to record a video of what is occurring. I'm having difficulty deciphering your english..... A video would do wonders.