When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Take a screwdriver or something with a rubber handle and put it to your ear and put the other end on components you may think are faulty. That sounds like a rack issue to me but i'm only seeing a video. Take load off the front end and jack it up if you can and do the same thing.
last night I removed the shield and checked the rack bushings. With the rack in my hand to eliminate it banging against the frame if the rack bushings were bad, I had a helper turn the wheel again, and the clunk is still there.
At this point, what I may do is disconnect the tie rod end on the driver side, and then see if I can find any play by having control of that tie rod - just to verify its not the inner tie rod banging.
If I can confirm its not the inner tie rod, is there any adjustment to the rack? Obviously there is some play, and I've read that racks have a pre-load adjustment...worth a shot?
I have no leaks, nor any noise when turning, its just this clunk when going over bumps, so I am hoping maybe I can get lucky with an adjustment to take up any slack inside the rack.
last night I removed the shield and checked the rack bushings. With the rack in my hand to eliminate it banging against the frame if the rack bushings were bad, I had a helper turn the wheel again, and the clunk is still there.
At this point, what I may do is disconnect the tie rod end on the driver side, and then see if I can find any play by having control of that tie rod - just to verify its not the inner tie rod banging.
If I can confirm its not the inner tie rod, is there any adjustment to the rack? Obviously there is some play, and I've read that racks have a pre-load adjustment...worth a shot?
I have no leaks, nor any noise when turning, its just this clunk when going over bumps, so I am hoping maybe I can get lucky with an adjustment to take up any slack inside the rack.
There is an adjustment. But make sure it isn't tie rods, inner or outters. since it can be duplicated with no load, and if tie rods are good, you are gonna be looking at a new rack, cant see a little of adjustment curing that awful sound but i've been wrong before!. Adjustment is possible but that involves WIS instructions/someone who knows how to adjust it properly.
My reading online for adjustment just sort of goes more along the line of steering slop, not any clunking...so I assume I'm more than likely needing a new rack.
Does the MB assembly come with the inner tie rods?
My goal at this point is to just try and CONFIRM that the clunk I am getting over bumps is indeed the rack, and I am not chasing two separate noises. My best idea is to build a set of wheel platforms using stacked 2x4's screwed together. Then let the car rest on them, and use the door as a lever point to rock the car enough to hopefully replicate the noise.
Other than a Genuine MB rack, any other worthy mentions for replacement, or is MB best choice if I can confirm the road knock is indeed the rack?
My reading online for adjustment just sort of goes more along the line of steering slop, not any clunking...so I assume I'm more than likely needing a new rack.
Does the MB assembly come with the inner tie rods?
My goal at this point is to just try and CONFIRM that the clunk I am getting over bumps is indeed the rack, and I am not chasing two separate noises. My best idea is to build a set of wheel platforms using stacked 2x4's screwed together. Then let the car rest on them, and use the door as a lever point to rock the car enough to hopefully replicate the noise.
Other than a Genuine MB rack, any other worthy mentions for replacement, or is MB best choice if I can confirm the road knock is indeed the rack?
I would confirm it's rack first and foremost then pursue how to replace it. Yes, new racks from MB come with new inner tie rods.
I did a 1/4 clockwise to the preload...no change in knocking, but steering does not return to center as easily as before. Will adjust it back. Was worth a shot....
next up is to build those wheel stands and see if I can rock the car enough to confirm it's from the rack.
i have a set of rhino Ramps, but they aren't that tall. Might try either way
Pulled the drivers side tie rod end off yesterday and found no slack in the inner tie rod at all...pulled it from all the angles and it was fine.
so at this point I believe the rack has got to go.
before I shell out $1400 for an MB rack, I might give a call to my local rack & axle shop who rebuilt my front axle shaft. Maybe they can rebuild cheaper as I thought removing the rack was going to be more work to be honest. I can have it out in 2hrs tops start to finish.
Pulled the drivers side tie rod end off yesterday and found no slack in the inner tie rod at all...pulled it from all the angles and it was fine.
so at this point I believe the rack has got to go.
before I shell out $1400 for an MB rack, I might give a call to my local rack & axle shop who rebuilt my front axle shaft. Maybe they can rebuild cheaper as I thought removing the rack was going to be more work to be honest. I can have it out in 2hrs tops start to finish.
replacing rack is a hour job or so. Did you still duplicate noise with ends removed? There aren't any clearance issues with steering column shaft is it?
Did you solve the problem? I recently loosened the steering rack, disconnected steering shaft, and pulled it down (still attached to tie rods) several inches to replace the drivers side engine mount out. After I put everything back I’ve got the clunk and a significant loose spot in the center of the steering. Yesterday I pulled the steering rack and found no play from the input shaft to the output. So it seams like it must be coming from the steering shaft assembly?
I know after the fact that I didn’t - per the manual procedure - fully telescope the steering wheel or secure it prior to disconnecting the shaft.
There are two sounds: a clunk and a scrape. The sound doesnt seemed synced to the movement of the steering wheel. Couldnt you provide extra/better lighting in your video? Im suggesting you turn the steering wheel slower to help locate the sound at least for the sake of rhe video watchers. I hope you tell us what was making both sounds.
for these types of clunks, it is important to use 2 people. One operates the rack and re creates teh noise, and other is there probing with a stethoscope (putting the metal probe on every possible component ) until it is isolated. I would not go repalcing the rack right away. Why would you replace a rack that work and is not leaking just because of a noise? My money would be on a bushing somewhere on the front end steering/suspension components or wheel hub. Any recent work done?
04-24-2017, 11:41 AM
