I just picked up an 07 E350 with 113k on it, but the catch is that it doesn't start. I got it for a great price, so I figured it would make a good project. Anyways, it cranks but doesn't start. No sputtering, just cranks and cranks. I was really hoping it would just be the crank position sensor, but I replaced it and it made no difference. I checked all of the fuses, and even bench tested the relays for the fuel pump and underhood engine ones. I checked pressure at the fuel rail, got 56psi while cranking, so I don't think it's the fuel pump. I pulled one of the coil packs off and checked for spark, and I did indeed see spark while cranking. However, I just put a socket extension in the plug boot and watched it arc to the engine, I plan on getting an actual spark plug tester and checking again tomorrow to be sure. I also tried spraying starting fluid in the intake while cranking, and still couldn't get it to fire at all. I didn't find any stored error codes, but the previous owner replaced the battery trying to troubleshoot, so the OBD codes were all cleared.

I haven't been able to confirm that the injectors are actually pulsing while cranking. I tried holding my finger on one of them (feeling for the click) while a buddy cranked it over, but I couldn't feel for sure if it was pulsing or not.

At this point, I'm wondering if it's a bad ECU. The previous owner installed a new battery recently, and I'm wondering if he tried to jump start it incorrectly and fried the ECU.

Does a replacement ECU need to be programmed to the car, or can I just swap it out for a new one?

While cranking, I see on my scan tool that the RPM value is around 180 or so - is this a good indication that the CPS is working, or could it still be faulty somehow? I got the replacement one from O'Reilly, Import Direct brand.

Could a bad cam position sensor prevent it from starting?

Any other ideas or things to check? I have an indy mechanic I've used in the past with a STAR system, so if I can't figure it out tomorrow I'll be having it towed to them. I'm just trying to rule out something simple, and they are closed until Monday anyway.

 

Well, no luck today. I used an inline spark tester on one of the plugs, and it's definitely getting spark. I also tried a second replacement crank position sensor, just to be sure I didn't get a bad one. Same symptoms. At this point I'm suspecting a bad ECU. I had it towed to my indy mechanic, they can scan it tomorrow and see what's what.

 

Could this be an immobilizer/key issue?

 

Could this be an immobilizer/key issue?

 

I wouldn't think so - the key turns in the ignition, and the engine cranks over. If there was a problem with an immobilizer, wouldn't it prevent it from even cranking?

 

Have you had a diag scan done? That might lead to the issue.

 

sometimes that's how the immobilized works. Have you tried another key?

 

I had the car towed to my mechanic yesterday. He's got the fancy star diagnostic tools, so hopefully he'll be able to diagnose it.

Unfortunately I only got one key with the car, so I wasn't able to try another one. The previous owner said he will mail it to me if he finds it, but I'm not exactly holding my breath.

 

Hope its good news! Since you got such a good deal, it would be nice if it was solved by getting a new key!
Mine only came with one key also and the quote for another one is somewhere north of $350..ugh!

 

maybe these will help... (attached)

 

I just talked to the mechanic - they said it looks like the timing chain tensioner has lost oil pressure from sitting too long. I agreed to 2 hours of labor to troubleshoot further. I'm hoping it doesn't turn out to be related to a balance shaft gear or tensioner gear failure somehow.

 

Post the vin number or check the balance shaft thread. They didn't have it fixed til a production date of after 9/2006 so some early 2007 had the problem. Only way to really tell is to check the engine serial number which you can do with the vin.

 

I did check the VIN, and the engine was built in the range of faulty sprockets. However, none of the threads about a failed sprocket that I came across mentioned a no start condition. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it's not the problem.

 

Well, I heard back from the mechanic today. Unsurprisingly, it's the balance gear sprocket, car needs a new engine. They estimate about $2200 in labor if I supply a replacement engine. I am trying to decide whether to sell the car for parts, have the shop put in an engine from another car. If i can find a good deal on a complete running one (built after the sprocket issue) I'm tempted to go for it. I do have a couple questions though - are all M272 3.5 engines interchangeable? For example, if I find one from an SLK or CLK is there anything that needs to be swapped over, such as accessories? Also, is there any reason I couldn't use an engine from a newer model? I'd like to limit my search to 2008 or newer just to rule out sprocket issues.

 

You should have had it scanned for codes before buying it. If it was in a not ready state, that meant someone cleared the codes. Anyway, you can find used engines on car-parts.com and putting in a 2007 yields cars with a 2008/2009 date also so you're good to go up to that date. They seem to range in price from $1500-$2500.

 

I only gave $2k for it, so I figured it was worth a gamble. Similar ones seem to go for anywhere between 5k and 10k around here depending on mileage, so technically I could fix it and still be ok on price. It just wouldn't be the bargain I was hoping for.

 

Any consideration just to replace the sprocket with the updated one? Why a new engine with a sprocket that looks to have just started to wear to the point of setting the codes?

 

I am considering just replacing the sprocket (and associated parts), but it will depend on the price. It should be faster to just swap out the entire engine for another complete one, but that also includes the price of a replacement engine. I plan on stopping by the mechanic's shop today to discuss options.

 

I believe in order to replace the balance shafts, you have to take the engine out of the car, it can't be done with the engine in the car. That's really the major expense. It's probably a wash with a new engine vs buying the parts and taking the engine apart. Lowest price I've heard was about 3k at an indy, but that was a few years ago so 4-5k might be the minimum now. It's only a few hundred for the balance shafts, but what seems to happen is that a lot of other parts sometimes gets replaced while it's all apart so the price goes up. I think there was some DIY thread a while back where someone had posted photos of the whole process, that might have been about 2k in parts and labor was free because a bunch of other stuff got replaced while it was apart. Once those codes are set, you can still drive it for a few thousand miles before you reach the point where it won't start. Those codes aren't fresh, it's been like that for a while for it to not start.