2008 E350 rear brakes, any special tools?
#1
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2008 E350 rear brakes, any special tools?
I'm getting ready to do my rear brakes on my 2008 E350 sport do i require any special tools to push in the calipers? If i recall correctly my car doesn't have SBC correct?
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
It's pretty straight forward. Only non standard would be the bits for the caliper bolts. You can just use a C-clamp to push in the piston in the caliper. You should also flush the brake fluid as MB uses a Dot 4+ fluid which should be changed every 2 years because it absorbs moisture more readily that older Dot 3 systems. No SBC, 2006 was the last year.
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bernard farquar (05-24-2018)
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
Are you doing a pad slap or changing the rotors also? MB makes them thick enough that if it's the first set of pads, you can sometimes get away with just putting on a new set of pads. Can't remember if the pins were hex or torx, had a set that had both so I don't remember which ones I used. Akebono for pads are preferred here, they're great, no dust. I believe the rears don't come with a sensor, but if you don't have a light on the dash, you can just reuse the old sensor otherwise the front pads come with two sensors, one for the front and rear.
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#9
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Thanks for the responses guys, im doing just the pads the rotors seem fine (very minor lip) i believe the previous owner replaced the brake and rotors right before he sold me the car. I ended up purchasing Ceramnic Brembo brake pads from FCPEuro, they came with sensors and all.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...0-e350-p50052n
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...0-e350-p50052n
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
On my previous MB the rotors develop big lips, while still having 60% of wearable thickness.
I just grind the lips.
Micrometer cost $10 or $35 for digital one. Something you might want to buy in advance as well.
I just grind the lips.
Micrometer cost $10 or $35 for digital one. Something you might want to buy in advance as well.
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Couple more tips
- the rotor min specs are stamped on the smaller, cylindrical part of them.
- I usually open the bleeder when I push the pistons in. Caliper pistons is where most of fluid contamination happens and I don't like the idea about pushing it back into expensive pumps.
When the fluid is old, I suck the fluid from reservoir, top off with new one before procedure. This way without much additional work I have partial fluid flush.
- the rotor min specs are stamped on the smaller, cylindrical part of them.
- I usually open the bleeder when I push the pistons in. Caliper pistons is where most of fluid contamination happens and I don't like the idea about pushing it back into expensive pumps.
When the fluid is old, I suck the fluid from reservoir, top off with new one before procedure. This way without much additional work I have partial fluid flush.
#14
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Thanks for the info everyone. It was a very easy job. On my car the rear calipers were held on by a 6mm torx (some online posts said 7mm allen). Its about a 45 minute job.
I'll be changing the brake fluid later this week once the motive power bleeder arrives.
I'll be changing the brake fluid later this week once the motive power bleeder arrives.