AirMatic
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2003 E500 Sport
AirMatic
I have a 2003 e500 sport with 278k miles and my car ride height switch is not working the only Way i can pump my car up is by turning the key two times and it’s takes a while before it’s up by doing that wat can it be
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Richmond, CA
2001 E320 Wagon, 2006 LBZ Silverado, 2007 E63 (sold), 2001 E55 (sold)
Sounds like the pump could be on it's way out. That's impressive if the car is on the original Airmatic parts at that mileage.
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2003 E500 Sport
Yes the car is still running good but the ride is getting rough I found out my front right shock is bad the valve in the inside needs to be replaced and my air valve block is bad to cause the car pumps up but won’t keep the height for to long and I put a new pump in so I don’t think it’s bad
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,249
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From: Richmond, CA
2001 E320 Wagon, 2006 LBZ Silverado, 2007 E63 (sold), 2001 E55 (sold)
If you still have a leak somewhere it will wear out the pump due to it running way more often to keep up.
You could always go with a coil over setup.
You could always go with a coil over setup.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
You won't go far on this system without some kind of monitoring. The computer will not show you problems with small leaks until they become big leaks and whole system collapse. At this point you compressor is shot from working overtime.
Right now several $150 scanners will read airmatic. When I had trouble with mine, such option did not exist, so I bought some fitting and add pressure gauge on main line.
That did allow me to make sure my system has no leaks and when it did, I could hook up shop compressor to the Tee and "go under" with soapy water.
Right now several $150 scanners will read airmatic. When I had trouble with mine, such option did not exist, so I bought some fitting and add pressure gauge on main line.
That did allow me to make sure my system has no leaks and when it did, I could hook up shop compressor to the Tee and "go under" with soapy water.
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2003 E500 Sport
Yes I do have a line that’s unde ther car in the rear that was leaking I put Jb weld on it and I never heard the air escaping nomore and now it’s like the rear will be high but only one side will be higher then the other then they will switch and now the other side is higher do I need to replace that line in order for the car to stop sinking
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
The 4 mm tubing is cheap. When I was installing the gauge on my wagon, I had to buy like 100 ft of it, so still have lot left overs if you need it.
But you assume the leak on glued part, when it would be good to confirm it with soapy water.
I fixed my system to the point where it would hold 120 psi overnight and compressor would never come on unless big temperature or load changes.
But you assume the leak on glued part, when it would be good to confirm it with soapy water.
I fixed my system to the point where it would hold 120 psi overnight and compressor would never come on unless big temperature or load changes.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,224
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I installed new Tee on the line, so I cut the tubing and installed compression fitting.
Originally MB is using "shark bite" fitting, that easy disconnect after pressing the outer ring in.
Those are easy to work on, but on reassembly easy to have leaks when teeth mark goes under oring. When I see some damage on tubing end, I just cut it off.
Originally MB is using "shark bite" fitting, that easy disconnect after pressing the outer ring in.
Those are easy to work on, but on reassembly easy to have leaks when teeth mark goes under oring. When I see some damage on tubing end, I just cut it off.
Last edited by kajtek1; Dec 2, 2018 at 01:08 PM.
