2003 e320. Love the car but it has some annoying issues...

When I take off from a dead stop and hit the accelerator hard the car will gain speed and then die. I can put it in neutral and start the car while drifting to a shoulder, but I have to come to a complete stop for the transmission to engage to get torque. Otherwise, the engine just revs up even in gear. - TPS (pedal)?

SOLVED - The cruise control will only work if set below 60. If I set it any higher (on the highway) it will not set. I can even set it at 58 and adjust to gain but it will shut off as soon as it hit 60. - I read Just a 2 percent difference in height between the front & rear tires, and the speed sensors will think your wheels are slipping, and your cruise control will cut out above 60 mph.

The power drain. I checked the fuses by hooking up a testing light to the battery and pulling each fuse (hood/trunk/dash) but the light never dimmed. I think that it could be a short on the power side somewhere but I can't find it. Someone told me that it could be On Star trying to connect??? ---- I did some research and found that it could be the battery control module or voltage regulator... so I'll be going by AutoZone tomorrow to have the regulator tested... 9/17/19 update - Had both tested and the battery and alternator both passed. I had the battery on charge all night and he said it was only half charged but there were no dead cells. I called MB to check on prices for a battery control module $630 part # 2116408645 but could not locate that part on the web anywhere. I read in the forum that this part was discontinued. Any idea on where I can get a new one and what part number I can use?

The passenger side low beam is not getting power. It does have a good ground but the hot wire is not getting power and I have to run a bridged wire from one headlight to the other. Which I hate to do. - control unit for the lights in the front fuse box, MB calls it the front "SAM" (signal activation module)?

I am getting a misfire in #5 but I replaced the coils, wires, and plugs. - MAF?

SOLVED - The radio will power on and then shut right off so I unplugged it. - AGW firmware? Will try this trick next shop day. 1. power off your command unit. 2. full reset your command to factory default (on your display cluster) 3. remove the key. 4. go to your trunk and remove #6 fuse out for 2 min. 5. put the #6 fuse back in. 6. turn your key to position one. (wait for 15 seconds) 7. power on your command unit. - It worked!!!

Sunroof is not working. It started making sounds like gears grinding. The motor seems good though because I can hear it, but the glass doesn't move. I guess its off-track if that's possible? My auto tech teacher adjusted some screws to keep the sunroof tight so it doesn't leak as much. - motor housing plate warped???

AC is not blowing cold. Paid a guy to replace the compressor/dryer but he obviously didn't do a very good job because it stopped blowing cold after 1 day and refused to install the EGR valve without adding another $100 to an already agreed-upon price. I called the guy but he never returned calls or texts. I took it to an AAMCO for the free ac check and they said the pressure was too low on the high side and they couldn't test it without having to vacuum out what I just paid to have put in there and put it back in again after the pressure was corrected. I'm not an ac guy so I don't understand why they can't just add more pressure to the high side and test it. Why do they have to drain everything all over again? He wanted to charge me $89 to redo what I just paid someone to do. They confirmed there was the correct amount of freon on the low side. I thought they were trying to rob me so I left.

Full gage only works between 1/4 and a little above 1/2 tank. When I fill it, the gas leaks from somewhere onto the cement preventing a full tank. I can only put in about $15-$20 worth of gas at a time. If I put in too much to where is leaks the car will not start for a few minutes. I did replace the full pump last year. I even pulled the seats out and removed the access panel to see if I may have not turned the caps on correctly. Those things can be a pia to line up, but they were fine. I even turned the key on to check to make sure it was coming on and pumping like it should. I even reached in and checked the float the best I could to make sure it had play and was not gunked up. --- research found - If the fuel pump (right side of tank) or the fuel filter (left side of tank) - both with a level sensor - are not "clocked" correctly in relation to the fuel tank then the arm of the level sensor will hangup on the hoses inside the tank preventing it from ever reaching the bottom of the tank. There is a little arrow cast into the top of each assembly and a casting line on the tank that have to line up with each other. If they are off, it sound like the arm of the level sensor is stuck on the lines. (9 times out of 10, if the left side thats the problem). Most of the time this happens after the unit is replaced and installed incorrectly, but I have seen a few times where over time the locking ring loosens up causing the unit to rotate out of place. It is accessible from under the rear seat bench. With the seat cushion out, there are two cover plates (one for each side) with (I think) 6 screws. The left side will have a wiring harness going under it. There are two electrical connectors on top of the left side assembly with one fuel line going to it. There is a special tool thats needed to remove (and properly torque!) the locking ring that holds the assembly down. To remove the assembly, you will have to open up the right side as well to disconnect the hoses that run from the left side to the right. The hoses are apart of the left side unit and not to be removed separately. You will see on top of each assembly the arrow I was talking about, just make sure it is lined up with the mark on the tank. Also, you will need a new hose clamp for the line (don't use anything other than the quick clamp style, otherwise the hose can be damaged by a worn drive clamp - I've seen it numerous times!!) and new seals for both left and right side. Lastly, if everything is lined up before removal - it most likely is a level sensor fault. However, both sides have a level sensor and it could be either so, some diagnosis would be required. - I will try this out this weekend.

Any insight as to what I can do to test these issues or fix them? I took this car to Fields Lakeland Mercedes when I had them replace the SBC pump but they were very little help and ignored most of my concerns.

The engine and ride are amazing but these issues make me wish I was driving a Honda sometimes

Thanks in advance

 

Do I need to post a nude to get some attention around here?

 

bump to get attention for some assistance...

 

First things first, did you plug in your OBD II reader for codes????

 

AUTOZONE Scan
P0161 - O2S 2 heater circuit malfunction
P0160 - O2 No activity detected (Bank 2, sensor 2)

Icarsoft MB scan

Transmission
P2600 - undervoltage circuit 87
P2500 - Transmission has an impermissible transmission ratio
P200A - Component N15/3 (ETC [EGS] control unit) is defective

EMS
P2000 - The break torque value sent from the traction system via the CAN Bus is implausible

ME2 - SFI
P20c3-000 - Not found
P2083-000 - Not found

SBC - non of these would clear
C249E - undervoltage
C225D - ABS control
C24F8 - overvoltage @ 87
C215c - Check component S9/1 (Stop lamp switch)
C2139 - Control unit A7/3n1 (SBC control unit) internal fault

ESP
c14B7 - System faults steer angle sensor not initialized
c14Fc - can be cleared
c11B7 - Check component N49 (steer angle sensor)

Airbag
90A6 - SRS light
9024 - Component or the signal line to the component B48 (front passenger seat occupied and child seat recognition) has faulty or short
902C - Component B48 (front passenger seat occupied and child seat recognition) is either defective or wrong
902D - component or signal line to B48 open circuit
9003 - undervoltage

CGW
9001 - overvoltage

EIS
9001 - undervoltage
9002 - overvoltage

OCP
90D0 - output "terminal 58d" is overloaded
90FF - can be erased

UCP
9028 - Fault in CAN communication with control unit N93/1 (audio gateway control module)
9031 - The connection between control module N72/1 (upper control panel control unit) and component M8 (UCP carrier open close motor) is interrupted
9032 - The supply voltage of the control unit N72/1 (upper control panel (UCP [OBF]) is too low (undervoltage)
9043 - The supply voltage of the control unit N72/1 (upper control panel (UCP [OBF]) is too high (overvoltage)

Dr SAM
9001 - Component LHB or component RHB is faulty or open
9002 - Component LLB / RLB short
9003 - LLB / RLB faulty or open
9009 - LTS / RTS faulty or open
9010 - LFSM short to ground or open
9051 - wiper motor overloaded
9052 - wiper motor blocked
9053 - wiper motor defective
9088 - supply voltage undervoltage
9089 - supply voltage overvoltage
9033 - Malfunction in component A7/3n1(SBC) or ABR or the line to component has a short to ground or open
9046 - Fault

Pass SAM
9001 - component E2e1 (right high beam) is faulty or the line to the component has an open circuit
9002 - Component E2e2 (right low beam) or line to component has short circuit)
9007 - Component E2e3 (right standing and parking lamp) is faulty or the line to the component has an open circuit. Or component E2e3 (right standing and parking lamp) is faulty or the line to the component has an open circuit. Note symptom 'LED 'Standing lights' is installed and the associated fault code is not stored in the fault memory
9009 - Component E2e5 (right turn signal lamp) is faulty or the line to the component has an open curcuit
9084 - The supply voltage of the control unit is too low (undervoltage)
9085 - The supply voltage of the control unit is too high (overvoltage)
9099 - Control unit N93 (central gateway control unit) is not transmitting data on the CAN bus

Rear SAM
9041 - Control unit N93 (central gatewaycontrol unit) is not transmitting data on the CAN bus
9040 - Circuit 30 has an overvoltage of > 17 V
9088 - Control unit N73 (EIS [EZS] control unit) is not tranmitting data on the CAN bus
9037 - Circuit 30 has an undervoltage of < 7 V
9055 - component E4e4 (right stop lamp) is faulty or the line to the component has a short circuit or open circuit.
9038 - Circuit 30 has an undervoltage of < 8 V
9057 - component E18/5 (left trunk lamp) is faulty or the line to the component has a short circuit or open circuit
9036 - component S54/6 (right rear backrest angle switch) or the line to the component has a short circuit to positive or open circuit
9035 - Component S54/5 (left rear backrest angle switch) or the line to the component has a short circuit to positive or open circuit
9039 - Circuit 30 has an unbdervoltage of 10.5 v. This fault is mainly listed when the engine is started. Low voltage only occurs when the fault is erased after engine is started and then appears again
9072 - component E19/2 (right license plate lamp) is faulty or the line to the component has a short circuit or open circuit()
9070 - component E18/4 (right trunk lamp) is faulty or the line to the component has a short circuit or open circuit

IC - Cluster
9117 - fault in CAN communication with control unit telecommunications
9118 - Fault in CAN communication with control unit Central gateway
9126 - Fault in CAN communication with control unit Audio Gateway
9128 - The supply voltage of the control unit is toolow (undervoltage)
9129 - The supply voltage to the control unit is to high (overvoltage)
9134 - sensor 1 for fuel level is jammed
9136 - Fault when writing the EEPROM DTC status

SCM
9010 - The supply voltage to the control unit is too low (undervoltage)
9011 - The supply voltage of the control unit is too high (overvoltage)
9334 - component N49 (steering angle sensor) is defective
9005 - Fault in communication on interior CAN databus

DCM FL
9010 - N69/1 (left rear door control unit) the supply voltage of the control unit is too low (undervoltage)
9011 - N69/1 (left front door control unit) the supply voltage of the control unit is too high (overvoltage)
9211 - There is a discontinuity in the line to component M21/1r1 (mirror heater) or the component is defective

DCM FR
9010 - N69/2 (left rear door control unit) the supply voltage of the control unit is too low (undervoltage)
9011 - N69/2 (left rear door control unit) the supply voltage of the control unit is too high (overvoltage)

DCM RL
9010 - N69/3 (left rear door control unit) the supply voltage of the control unit is too low (undervoltage)
9011 - N69/3 (left rear door control unit) the supply voltage of the control unit is too high (overvoltage)

DCM RR
9010 - N69/4 (right rear door control unit) The supply voltage of the control unit is too low (undervoltage)
9011 - N69/4 (right rear door control unit) the supply voltage of the control unit is too high (overvoltage)

ESA driver
9852 - Fault in CAN communication with control unit EZS
9001 - Control unit N32/1 (front seat adjustment control module with memory, driver) is defective. or [(209) Control unit N32/1 (front seat adjustment with memory and easy entry control module , driver) is defective]
9063 - No normalizing of head restraint adjustment

ESA Pass
9852 - Fault in CAN communication with control unit EZS
9001 - Control unit N32/2 (front seat adjustment control module with memory, front passenger) or N32/2 (front seat adjustment with memory and easy entry control module, front passenger) is defective
9063 - No normalizing of head restraint adjustment

C-AAC
9201 - Check refrigerant level B10/6 (Evaporator temp sensor)
9210 - The supply voltage of the control unit is too low (undervoltage)
95B8 - M2/22 (center vent flap positioning motor) (mechanical fault)

 

Posted... any ideas of how to fix? I went to AutoZone and had them read it and then I ran my icarsoft as well with the car running. I posted the codes. I was able to clear all of them but the one that says could not erase. When I checked my scanner on break an hr ago most of these codes were gone. Since no one is commenting on how to help I will post the remaining codes in the next few days. As you can see there were a ton of codes, but I want to run it for a day and test again to see how many come back. I have done my research and posted what I thought could be the issue, but I want feedback on these suggestions because I might be missing something and I don't want to spend money for no reason. I also do not know the jargon or how to test these, or if they are clues to other issues.

These are the reasons I'm asking for help. I have paid several mechanics to look at this but none can pinpoint the issues. I have taken to MB dealership that was no help. I'm going out of my mind trying to figure these issues out and I'm about to trade it in on a KIA or some other cheap car if I can't get some help because this is stressing me out. I'm tired of putting money into it and I hate to sell things that don't work correctly.

I work on cars but not electronics. This is not my area. PLEASE HELP

 

Issues with Steering angle sensor can cut off the CC.

 

Did you test the aux battery? That's the backup battery for the main battery. Also if you charged up the main battery and they did a load test and said it only had half power, I'd just get a new battery, just can't hold a charge now. I'd suggest Champion at Pepboys, it's 35% off on Black friday and they have a $50 rebate on it now. It's a JCI battery, same as the factory one. Check the transmission connector, it's a cheap part and also needs replacing.

You can try checking ebay for a used battery control module. Use EPC to search for the part number, but it's not easy to use. Maybe PM Konigstiger to help you? You can by the EPC/WIS on eBay for about $6.60. WIS is the workshop manuals.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2019-Mercedes-SMART-WIS-ASRA-EPC-Dealer-Service-Repair-Workshop-Download/123730293730

The fuel tank had a 15 year unlimited miles warranty but I guess your 2003 is probably beyond 15 years. If you had a carfax or autocheck, that would show the in service date.