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Wondering if anyone has used the Corteco 80000363 crankshaft pully / vibration dampener / choose your name. My son and I are working on his 2003 E320 sedan (joint project and it is his daily driver at this point) and we noticed today that the pulley is wobbling a bit - more than we expected - and it may be the cause of the slight vibration we feel in the car that we are still trying to track down. I fully believe the one in there is the original.
The MB part is: A 112 035 13 00
The real MB part is rather expensive but the Corteco part is very affordable on Amazon. Just wonder if anyone has tried using this part? I have had good luck with Corteco engine mounts in the past...
Those harmonic balancers have been subject to recall 15 years ago.
Give friendly call to your dealer and ask if you might qualify for free replacement.
When it is coming to buying new, I would not buy aftermarket for such crucial part.
Have seen picture of few balancers who come apart. Not a pretty one.
Corteco is actually the OEM maker of many MB parts, however I don't know if they're the actual makers of this particular part, but I wouldn't consider them some cheap aftermarket supplier.
Yea I agree - I have some Corteco engine mounts on my daughters 2001 E430 - two years now and so far no issues at all. Given their focus on vibration control and they are already a Mercedes OEM, I would think there are good odds they are the OEM for this part or at the very least completely follow the MB specs for their vibration parts.
First I'm going to find that recall notice for the vibration dampener, I remember reading it at some point and it does not cost anything to ask the local dealer if our car is covered by it. If not, the cost savings is so significant, I'll try the Corteco mount and report back. All of this will take a few weeks before I can get to it. Thanks all
I had a chat with David at MBFresno and he got around to running the vins I sent him a couple of week ago (E320 - son, E430 - daughter, C230 - daughter) and none of them are covered under the harmonic balance service campaign. They are more than happy to replace them for a small fortune from me.
First one I'll attack is the sons e320 - his is the worst.
For the E320 I went and ordered the Corteco, PDM tool, belt, and a new MB bolt and will let ya know how it goes when it gets here and I clear the time to install it.
Beware that you will need really strong tools for the main bolt.
Holding tool is advised too, although a prybar jammed against transmission converter worked for lot of repairs.
So finally got around to tacking this job.Taking off that vibration dampener was crazy hard (original, never removed before) but installation was easy.
Couple of notes for anyone trying it.
- I had the car in neutral with negative battery disconnect thus key was in the ignition. The loosening torque was so much I would not trust park or any flywheel holding setup, use the special tool - it work perfectly and nothing will be damaged.
- The PMD products holder tool (amazon) worked perfectly and was under $60 with shipping. Totally worth it. It fit the original factory pulley perfectly for removal and fit the new Corteco on installation with no issues.
- I was super impressed that MB actually molded into the front lower sub-frame a groove to hold the tool handle - two of them - one for loosening and one for tightening - so it was a one person job. No reason for anyone to hold the handle on the tool, it is designed to turn into that groove so a single person can do it.
- The factory one was on SO FREAKING tight. I was using a 27MM deep impact socket with my 24" breaker bar (the $20 one at harbor freight). I had to put a 5' x 1-1/4" EMT extension on it to get enough leverage to loosen it and that is what hurt my back so much. I still cannot believe it was so tight. I truly thought that breaker bar 1/2" swivel was going to snap. My biggest fear was that I was going to tear the driver side engine mount from over extending since I was moving the engine like I have never seen before. I'll be looking at replacing those mounts as part of a future project but I don't think they are bad (at least they are not leaking nor any visible cracks/damage).
- When loosening, under the car you will have a power steering line held in by two E type bolts. Super easy to remove both of them, and then the line moved to side allowing unobstructed access to the removal tool holder slot on the top of the front frame. Literally one minute to remove both of those bolts and you have full access - just do it.
- Only mistake I made was I did not fully read the WIS until starting the job (I scanned it but missed this part) and the WIS clearly states to replace the front sealing ring. I did not have a new seal ring nor the press tool. The part number for sleeve tool is 119 589 01 14 00
- The WIS is very clear - you put that new pulley in with NO OIL or any GREASE anywhere - it is intended to be dry fit. Same for the seal ring (which I did not replace).
- Installation was rather easy. MAKE SURE TO USE A NEW BOLT - WIS says a new bolt is required. I had one. I use a 24" Icon 1/2" torque wrench set to 200NM and I was surprised how easy it was to hit that 200NM. Then I switched to the 24" breaker bar and did two 45 degree tightens - it was a two hands on that bar and lots of body leverage but i was able to easily pull from the drivers side. It was SO MUCH EASIER than loosening. The holder tool worked perfectly.
- While you are doing this - I replaced the belt idler pulley and tensioner since everything is right in front of you.
- Don't be that guy that over torques and snaps a bolt. Alternator bolts are 45 NM, tensioner bolts are 25 NM, idler pulley bolt is 20 NM.
- The new tensioner has a pin holding it in place under tension. Install it first, then use a 17MM socket to move it and pull that pin out (just pull by hand). This is done so you have access to the lower mounting bolt.
Here is all the old parts out next to all the new parts prior to starting installation.
Naturally an new belt.
While I had everything out, I also pulled the alternator and replaced the voltage regulator. The old regulator clearly was replaced at some point in the past since it had about 40% of the contacts left when I expected a lot less less for 125K miles. Oh well, that could have waited but at least I know that does not need to be replaced again for at least 100K miles.
End result - fired it up and just sitting there idling - noticeably smoother. Visually the belt is now not moving up/down slightly like before. My son will put some miles on it this coming week, I'll report if any issues.
Quick update on this job. Son has put on about 4k miles on it, no issues so far. I also finally got around to replacing the transmission mount and both drive shaft flex discs a few months ago, I'll do a separate write about those but it was an easy job.
Yes - the vibration was fixed. You could see the engine vibrating - differently at different RPM's and feel it when sitting in the car especially at idle. Now when in park, all rpm's are really smooth. There was also a squeal and a tick that are gone - I think it was the tension pulley since its bearing felt sort of loose. My daughter has a 2001 E430 that I will be doing the exact same replacement to most likely in the early fall.
The motor mounts should be replaced at some point but still appear to be good - nothing leaking and don't see any abnormal engine rotation when you gun it when parked. It's on the list of items to get to for preventative.
I also replaced the trans mount and the flex discs but that was preventative - they looked to be original. Trans mount rubber looked bad but we could not feel any change after the trans mount and flex discs - just gives me piece of mind knowing those are new.
Main thing on my long term list is torque converter - I don't know if the previous owners kept clean fluid in the tranny. Since we picked it up close to 3 years ago I have been very aggressive at keeping clean fluid in the tranny (and diff) but all we can do is try and prevent new wear. The car has amazing get up and go pep - but I do feel a slight shutter on the 1-2 shift. Is is valve body plungers or is it the beginning of torque converter slippage? Not sure yet. Doing the valve body drop/clean and new plungers is on the list...
Oh low cost tip for those 722.6 that need 236.14 fluid. If you are in the US, find a local Shell Oil distributor (shell website has a search function). Those companies will let you order Shell ATF 134 directly from them (you have to pick it up in person). Sold in a case of 6 for a tad under $30 - amazing price for MB Approved trans fluid.
10-20-2019, 02:53 AM
