imp_biz_kit

I purchased a 2008 E350 4Matic Wagon about a month ago, for a reasonable price, knowing that it had a few issues that I would have to be taking care of shortly. The number of issues to address has increased, as I've gotten to know the car better, so I've been stockpiling parts to address them when warmer weather arrives. One of the issues, as noted in from the previous owner's paperwork is the CV boots. I see that his former mechanic had indicated that a boot was torn but it was never addressed. I bought boots from FCP Euro and my plan was to pull the axles, repack the bearings and change the boots. I really don't look forward to this job so I started researching complete axle assemblies. I've read bad reviews regarding many aftermarket axles and heard that there was a good axle available sporadically via a national auto parts chain. I found these at eEuroparts and was wondering of anyone had used them and, if so, what were your thoughts? https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/446...ide-New-9009N/
Thanks for any guidance,
Bryan

imp_biz_kit

Nobody has bought these? OK.

cetialpha5

My advice to you is to rebuild the axle. The OEM ones are about 1k, FCPeuro has some aftermarket ones that are supposed to be decent but they're in the $300 range. You can experiment with the ones you mentioned but what happened when I tried a cardone one was that there'd be vibrations from the axle. I kept the old axle and got the axle boot kit and had my mechanic rebuild it and it was fine afterwards. The tough part on rebuilding it of course is to hammer out the old joint and hammer it back in again, but it wasn't too bad, took a few blows with the hammer for them to come apart and put back together. I suppose if you don't mind doing it twice, get the replacement axle and keep the old one. Swap it in and if you get vibrations, then rebuild the old axle and swap again.

ps2cho

FCP now has GKN axles - id use no other aftermarket brand...but as said above KEEP old axles in case you get a vibration at idle, it’s a common issue with aftermarket axles.

drbenz88

If only the outer boot is torn then I would also recommend rebuilding the axle. Its not a fun project but far from impossible. That being said, if you prefer to replace the whole unit I would highly recommend purchasing the GKN axles from FCP euro. The MB axles front axles are manufactured by GKN so youre essentially getting genuine parts without the upcharge, and if you buy them from FCP euro they'll be covered under their lifetime warranty.

rtbrjason

I was worried about aftermarket axles as well. I ended up finding a used oem part on eBay for less than $100 and installed it. It was about 3 years ago and so far so good.

imp_biz_kit

Thank you, to all, for the advice. I only want to pull the axles one time so buying aftermarket sounds like a bad idea. Sounds like the best bet would be to buy OE, OE remanufactured or the GKM brand.
I looked around online for an axle that was a remanufactured OEM unit but only found one, a driver's side, on eBay, I can't bring myself to pay what's being asked for original units, just yet, as I'm dumping money into wheel bearings, transmission servicing, wheel speed sensors, critical stuff like clear front markers, etc. I've reconditioned plenty of axles in the past but, I was always left with a little doubt in the back of my mind as to their reliability. I guess I shouldn't as I've had one of the cars for 30 years and the wheel bearings seem to be holding up just fine. I have all new boots and grease for both front axles so, if the bearings and cages are in good shape when I pull the axles, I'll just recondition them and cross my fingers. If they fail, I'll look into trying to locate rebuilt OE units.
I'll be locating axle pulling videos this weekend, but have to ask now, how is that special $300 MB axle pulling chain tool used? I bought a 3" muffler clamp as I had seen that mentioned before, but I just don't know where it comes onto play.
Thanks again for the guidance.

drbenz88

From my experience, I could not remove either front axle. I tried the 3" clamp based off others' suggestion but it actually seemed too big so I just gave up on it.

Since my inner boots were torn I removed the outer CV joint and shaft from the inner CV joint where the boot connects, cleaned everything, and removed the large clamp from the inner joint (still attached to the differential). after assembling and crimping the outer CV boots, I installed the inner boot onto the shaft and crimped the smaller end and then inserted the axle back into the inner CV joint. The clearance to crimp the ring onto the larger end of the inner CV joint is limited but I was able to do so by removing the motor mount (super easy on these cars) and positioning the clamp pliers in the area where the motor mount would be. If you use clamp pliers that have a place in the handle to insert a 1/2" breaker bar or wrench, this is straight forward.

Good Luck
Hashem

cetialpha5

The 3" clamp is to get the axle out. Otherwise once you have it all apart, there's no way to grab the axle to get it out. You clamp it onto the back of the axle where it goes into the transaxle. Then you can put a pry bar or a slide hammer with a hook on the clamp to get it out. It was pretty rusted in when the mechanic removed mine. Removing the aftermarket one was much easier, hadn't frozen in place like the original one. Replaced the boot on both my axles and they were fine.

imp_biz_kit

Thank you, gentlemen. I will give pulling the whole assembly a shot and, if that doesn't work, will proceed with the method that Hashem outlined. Fortunately, I'm also changing the motor mounts, so getting them out of the way for better access should be useful. I guess all I have to do now is buy a good boot crimper and take schedule a good time to do all of it.
Thanks again,
Bryan

kajtek1

I've been replacing boots on W210 and W211 models and you will find my pictorial on the forum.
When the diameters changed, basic technology is still the same and I believe W212 has CV joints done with the same idea.
So I was alway pushing for replacing the boot and save original CV joint. It always work for me, but if you wait too long - dirt and sand will enter the ***** and joint will be toasted.
Several member used $80 Chinese axles and when they work OK, you can't expect more than 20 k miles from them.
Since this is new purchased car, I hope you don't need it on the road tomorrow and can take your time?
Remove the axle, take CV joint apart and insect ***** & runs with magnify glass.
If they are clean and good, repack with new grease and new boot. That will give you another +- 10 years of service.
If any doubts, make good quality pictures and post here, so we can brainwash the issue.

rodneypierce

I spent stupid money having my OE mercedes shafts rebuilt by a VERY reputable, and recommended place from the forums here. I had a vibration from the day they were installed, never thought it could be an axle. Well, the boots split on them and they started to make noise this winter, one year out of warranty. I decided to buy a set of chinese new axles and have them installed. They are pretty decent axles, and the vibration I have had since installing the other OE axles that were supposed to be checked for straightness and resized/rebuilt...is gone. We will see how long they last I guess.

imp_biz_kit

Thanks for the info, Krzysztof. I'm going to definitely check them out before reinstalling them. I'll definitely look up your pictorial for guidance on the process. From the few videos I have seen the CV on this car, at least on the inboard side, is completely different than what i'm accustomed to. I'm more used to the style that has the ball bearings in cages while these appear to be needle bearings in caps, like typically found in a U-Joint. I guess I'll see when I get it apart. If it's trashed, I may end up going with aftermarket, as rodneypierce (below) has done, at least for a bit as I don't want to have the car down too long as I'll be doing all of this work in my alley. As it happens, my garage is full with two other cars that are not able to be moved :-). I'll definitely hold on to the originals for a rebuild if I go that route.
Thanks again for the advice,
Bryan