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I have a 2007 Mercedes Benz E350 yesterday as I was driving to work the following message displayed in the instrument cluster "ESC inoperable see operator’s manual." And I immediately lost throttle power, but when I step on the gas it takes a while and then the car starts moving. I got to work, turned off the engine and turn it back on and the message was gone and the car returned to normal. I got off work 8hrs later started it and drove home, but I could notice the throttle not responding as it usually does, got home and the message came back on. Turned off the car and turned it back on and the message was gone again. I parked inside the garage, few minutes later went back started the car and it was misfiring with the check engine light on and flashing. What could this be? I saw through research people pointing out the "Brake light switch" as the culprit. P.S. prior to this I had an oil leak coming from my oil pan gasket, I poured blue devil stop leak into the engine as directed.
Get a scanner that tells you what the MB specific codes are. About $61 on Amazon. It doesn't sound like you have the same issues that are normally associated with ESC. In that case, it's the brake light switch, wheel speed sensor, steering angle sensor or yaw sensor. That error message doesn't cause you to lose engine power though, that's usually a separate transmission error. Which is why you need the code reader to see all the mb specific codes that you have. And you never use any miracle in a can, you should fix the oil leak. Common leaks on the M272 is the oil breather cover/separator, plug covers, oil cooler gasket and of course it could also be the oil pan. MB uses a sealant for their oil pans, no gaskets.
Get a scanner that tells you what the MB specific codes are. About $61 on Amazon. It doesn't sound like you have the same issues that are normally associated with ESC. In that case, it's the brake light switch, wheel speed sensor, steering angle sensor or yaw sensor. That error message doesn't cause you to lose engine power though, that's usually a separate transmission error. Which is why you need the code reader to see all the mb specific codes that you have. And you never use any miracle in a can, you should fix the oil leak. Common leaks on the M272 is the oil breather cover/separator, plug covers, oil cooler gasket and of course it could also be the oil pan. MB uses a sealant for their oil pans, no gaskets.
@cetialpha5 I already have an icarsoft scanner coming in, I’ll pull codes and update later thanks for your valuable input.
ceti is right, that engine problem is unlikely attached to your electronic stability error.
hopefully the Blue Devil didn‘t gum up your engine. I had an oil leak I thought was coming from the pan and dreaded the repair, but after wiping down everything really well and only driving a few miles jacking up the car again, I located the leak, Was the dipstick tube oring where it entered the pan. I had been looking for the leak though several oil changes but in that time oil splatter was all over pan, making me think the pan was leaking.
ceti is right, that engine problem is unlikely attached to your electronic stability error.
hopefully the Blue Devil didn‘t gum up your engine. I had an oil leak I thought was coming from the pan and dreaded the repair, but after wiping down everything really well and only driving a few miles jacking up the car again, I located the leak, Was the dipstick tube oring where it entered the pan. I had been looking for the leak though several oil changes but in that time oil splatter was all over pan, making me think the pan was leaking.
I inspected the oil pan and don’t see oil leaking from it, I suspect it is all coming from the cam plugs particularly the one at the back of the engine. I’ll order the whole set and replace them. Still waiting for the scan to pull codes.
FCPEuro sells the breather kit. Not sure if you really need the oil separator on the driver's side, but the passenger side goes bad often along with the breather cover. Can be cheaper at an online MB dealer, but you don't get the lifetime warranty from FCPeuro. There could be oil in the throttle body too from the hose.
What's the vin? Sounds like a couple of those codes could be balance shaft related but it could also be bad sensors. Early 2007 models also had balance shaft problems. Misfires can be the plugs/coils but sometimes it's something else and can be hard to track down.
What's the vin? Sounds like a couple of those codes could be balance shaft related but it could also be bad sensors. Early 2007 models also had balance shaft problems. Misfires can be the plugs/coils but sometimes it's something else and can be hard to track down.
Thanks for the valuable input and quick response, I started it yesterday and it started fine and idled but I still have the oil leak.
Check the places I mentioned for the oil leak. At the back on the passenger side of the engine is the oil breather cover, it typically leaks oil from the bottom if the cover/oil separator is bad. There's also 3 plugs, that can also leak. Looks like you're past the balance shaft issue and those are old codes anyway, could be the sensors are starting to go. Your poor performance is from the misfires. I'd at least start with new spark plugs. NGK laser platinum on Rockauto are pretty popular. Your P0106 is a map sensor, you may have a vacuum leak which might also be causing the misfire, map sensor might also need cleaning. Your knock sensor needs to be looked at, maybe loose connector or bad sensor. Your other codes are old and maybe not relevant anymore, you sometimes get weird error messages when you have low voltage. Make sure your battery is charged.
Check the places I mentioned for the oil leak. At the back on the passenger side of the engine is the oil breather cover, it typically leaks oil from the bottom if the cover/oil separator is bad. There's also 3 plugs, that can also leak. Looks like you're past the balance shaft issue and those are old codes anyway, could be the sensors are starting to go. Your poor performance is from the misfires. I'd at least start with new spark plugs. NGK laser platinum on Rockauto are pretty popular. Your P0106 is a map sensor, you may have a vacuum leak which might also be causing the misfire, map sensor might also need cleaning. Your knock sensor needs to be looked at, maybe loose connector or bad sensor. Your other codes are old and maybe not relevant anymore, you sometimes get weird error messages when you have low voltage. Make sure your battery is charged.
Actually I have brand new sets of spark plugs and coil packs in it from just less than two weeks ago. All are MB approved, because one of the coils had gone bad I decided to replace the entire six along with brand new spark plugs. I haven’t gotten a chance to check the oil breather but I suspect it is the culprit to my oil leakage. The low voltage might had come from when I was cleaning inside the car I had left the doors open for long with the dome lights on. I’ll clean the throttle body along with map sensor. So nothing about the camshaft magnet and crankshaft adjuster defective? What will say are the symptoms of a defective knock sensor? I’ll really hate for that to be the issue. I recently had the intake manifold replaced by an indie mechanic.
Have him double check his work. Maybe he didn't plug in those knock sensors. There's a lot of electrical connectors to disconnect and reconnect when replacing the intake manifold. Camshaft messages are historic so they could be old from the low battery or maybe they were accidently disconnected when the intake was replaced. You can clear them and see if it comes back. I don't worry too much about old codes. Says you still have current codes for the misfire, you sure you got the right plugs and that the ones you got had the right gap? Of course you could have a vacuum leak somewhere from taking everything apart which could be causing your misfire codes. The oil breather and separator is what cooks the intake, failure lets oil instead of fumes into the intake which gums up the flaps which means you have to replace the intake. Remember the oil separator is reverse threaded, turn it the other way to loosen it.
Have him double check his work. Maybe he didn't plug in those knock sensors. There's a lot of electrical connectors to disconnect and reconnect when replacing the intake manifold. Camshaft messages are historic so they could be old from the low battery or maybe they were accidently disconnected when the intake was replaced. You can clear them and see if it comes back. I don't worry too much about old codes. Says you still have current codes for the misfire, you sure you got the right plugs and that the ones you got had the right gap? Of course you could have a vacuum leak somewhere from taking everything apart which could be causing your misfire codes. The oil breather and separator is what cooks the intake, failure lets oil instead of fumes into the intake which gums up the flaps which means you have to replace the intake. Remember the oil separator is reverse threaded, turn it the other way to loosen it.
Thank you for the valuable input, the plugs said pre-capped when I purchased them and the guy that worked on the car said he’ll check I don’t know if he ever checked. I probably won’t get to the car until Friday but I’ll update you soon thanks again!
Thank you for the valuable input, the plugs said pre-capped when I purchased them and the guy that worked on the car said he’ll check I don’t know if he ever checked. I probably won’t get to the car until Friday but I’ll update you soon thanks again!
Hello MB Fam!
Here is an update on what’s been going on, so I went to FC Euro and order bunch of oem parts (oil pan, oil pan sealant, oil separator drip pan, oil separator cover, break light switch, oil filter, new w0 40 oil). I drained out the oil changed the oil pan and add new oil and filter, so far no more leaks. Changed the break light switch (which I found to be defective). When I went to take out the oil drip pan, the bolt wouldn’t move feels washed, even though I went counter-clockwise to loosen it. I finally just ended up changing just the oil separator cover. I purchased an intake manifold sensor cleaner and throttle body cleaner and cleaned those two properly following a YouTube tutorial. Put everything back in the car, started it, the car idled well with the check engine light steady, then 15-20 minutes later it started sounding like it is misfiring and then got a little worse. When I tried to give it some gas it’ll hesitate then fire up. Then 5-8 minutes later the check engine light started flashing, I turned the car off and put the code reader in and the following codes on the attachments are showing up. What else could I be missing? I see the map sensor code showing. Could that be the culprit?
Have him double check his work. Maybe he didn't plug in those knock sensors. There's a lot of electrical connectors to disconnect and reconnect when replacing the intake manifold. Camshaft messages are historic so they could be old from the low battery or maybe they were accidently disconnected when the intake was replaced. You can clear them and see if it comes back. I don't worry too much about old codes. Says you still have current codes for the misfire, you sure you got the right plugs and that the ones you got had the right gap? Of course you could have a vacuum leak somewhere from taking everything apart which could be causing your misfire codes. The oil breather and separator is what cooks the intake, failure lets oil instead of fumes into the intake which gums up the flaps which means you have to replace the intake. Remember the oil separator is reverse threaded, turn it the other way to loosen it.
Hello!
Here is an update on what’s been going on, so I went to FC Euro and order bunch of oem parts (oil pan, oil pan sealant, oil separator drip pan, oil separator cover, break light switch, oil filter, new w0 40 oil). I drained out the oil changed the oil pan and add new oil and filter, so far no more leaks. Changed the break light switch (which I found to be defective). When I went to take out the oil drip pan, the bolt wouldn’t move feels washed, even though I went counter-clockwise to loosen it. I finally just ended up changing just the oil separator cover. I purchased an intake manifold sensor cleaner and throttle body cleaner and cleaned those two properly following a YouTube tutorial. Put everything back in the car, started it, the car idled well with the check engine light steady, then 15-20 minutes later it started sounding like it is misfiring and then got a little worse. When I tried to give it some gas it’ll hesitate then fire up. Then 5-8 minutes later the check engine light started flashing, I turned the car off and put the code reader in and the following codes on the attachments are showing up. What else could I be missing? I see the map sensor code showing. Could that be the culprit?
You really need the mechanic to check his work or get someone else to do it. I don't think he did a good job on the intake. Sounds like stuff might be unplugged and if the plugs are gapped correctly, it's tricky getting the intake manifold gasket to stay on correctly. Many threads on here about having to redo it when the intake gasket didn't line up right. There might also be a vacuum leak that may account for the misfire.
You really need the mechanic to check his work or get someone else to do it. I don't think he did a good job on the intake. Sounds like stuff might be unplugged and if the plugs are gapped correctly, it's tricky getting the intake manifold gasket to stay on correctly. Many threads on here about having to redo it when the intake gasket didn't line up right. There might also be a vacuum leak that may account for the misfire.
I’m now in the process of finding another mechanic, the dishonest dude that did the job is now docking my texts and calls. It worked fine when he finished it and the car drop well for about two weeks, then I got that “esc inoperable” message and the whole car is now vibrating.
Hi Fam! Sorry for the late update, I just left the Mercedes for a while since something else seems to break as soon as I’m done replacing the other.
Changed the max air flow sensor and the car stabilized and ran good for a day without the CEL on. The next day while driving to work, inoperable message came back on, lost acceleration power. I purchased a brand new throttle pedal with sensor replaced it. Car ran great for 2 days then cel came back on. Now it is showing that it is the knock sensor and unable to pass emissions.
At this time I’m just tired of this car, thousands of dollars and hundreds of man hours later and I still don’t have a fully functional car; the cel is still on. The photos shows its latest soap opera.
I’ll really hate to take the intake manifold back out again as I just replaced it. Because that’s the way to get to the knock sensors.
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