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I am getting fault codes P0016, P0100, P2004, and P2015. However, P0016 is the main issue.
My car has a smooth idle and runs great. But, I am hearing a slight ticking when the engine is idling. Not sure if that has anything to do with codes. I believe my engine serial number (272972 30 784337) is outside of the range for the balance shaft issue.
I am at a loss what the issue may be since the P0016 and sometimes the P2015 return after clearing.
This is what I've DONE so far.
- Replaced MAF (P0100 has not returned)
- Replaced Intake Manifold Air Flap lever with a metal version. (P2015 sporadically returns after clearing codes…not immediately. I have also read that this issue may be caused by the fuel pump or clogged fuel injectors but I have NOT flushed the fuel system. I had the fuel pump and tank replaced with a recall a couple of years ago.)
- Replaced Camshaft Position Sensors on bank 1 (P0016 immediately returns after starting the engine.)
- Replaced Camshaft Solenoids (magnets) on bank 1 (P0016 immediately returns after starting the engine.)
- Checked Camshaft electrical connections but all corrections are good.
- Verified valve timing by inspecting the camshaft sprocket alignment after removing Camshaft Position Sensors. Marks appear to be dead center but my angles are a bit off. Best I could get with my phone camera. Pictures attached.
- I flushed the engine with Liqui Moly just in case there was some kind of blockage and figured it would not hurt an engine with 173k on it. Have always used Mobile-1 synthetic 0W-40 except once when I accidentally grabbed the wrong oil bottles…10W-40.
I have NOT DONE the following.
- I have not checked for debris in the oil pan.
- Did not replace the Swirl Flap Actuator. (P2004 has NOT returned after replacing Air Flap lever and clearing codes.)
- I have not done anything with the timing chain only because I ruled it out since the engine is running great.
Could it be a worn Chain Tensioner that is causing the P0016 fault code?
I have not been able to find good information on the chain tensioner. If the tensioner is the problem, does anyone have good replacement instructions that you can post here?
Any help/suggestions you can give would be appreciated.
Lots of times people replace both sets of sensors. You could also try the crankshaft position sensors. As for your intake manifold, even if you replace the lever, the flaps get gummed up and if you try to move the lever by hand, it's really hard to move so replacing the lever doesn't really help. Normally you replace the entire manifold. You also replace the oil breather cover and the oil separator, when they go bad, oil gets into the intake and it gums up the flaps in the intake making them hard to move. Once they get gummed up, eventually bits of it will break off and end up in the engine causing engine damage. That's why you replace the manifold instead of just replacing the lever. Replacing the lever is a short term fix, long term is replacing the entire manifold. The dealer always replaces the entire manifold, they don't do the lever fix.
Lots of times people replace both sets of sensors. You could also try the crankshaft position sensors. As for your intake manifold, even if you replace the lever, the flaps get gummed up and if you try to move the lever by hand, it's really hard to move so replacing the lever doesn't really help. Normally you replace the entire manifold. You also replace the oil breather cover and the oil separator, when they go bad, oil gets into the intake and it gums up the flaps in the intake making them hard to move. Once they get gummed up, eventually bits of it will break off and end up in the engine causing engine damage. That's why you replace the manifold instead of just replacing the lever. Replacing the lever is a short term fix, long term is replacing the entire manifold. The dealer always replaces the entire manifold, they don't do the lever fix.
Good info. I have replaced the crankshaft position sensors. The lever moves without any issues. It's firm but I can move it easily with my finger and it is attached at all points. Your other suggestions I haven't tried. Indy did suggest replacing the manifold.
Wouldn't the engine run bad if the flaps were gummed up? Makes me wonder if I'm fooled by the fact it runs so well.
Good info. I have replaced the crankshaft position sensors. The lever moves without any issues. It's firm but I can move it easily with my finger and it is attached at all points. Your other suggestions I haven't tried. Indy did suggest replacing the manifold.
Wouldn't the engine run bad if the flaps were gummed up? Makes me wonder if I'm fooled by the fact it runs so well.
Replacing the manifold would definitely get rid of the P2015. The fact that it keeps coming back probably means that it's gummed up a little bit and sometimes it's there and sometimes it's not. Did you do the oil separator yet? In that kit, normally you do the oil separator and the cover. Not sure if you really need to do the hoses or the one on the other side. The 3 plugs also leak at some point. Oil separator is reverse threaded so turn the opposite to loosen/tighten. The flaps are set for either high or low rpms so it would run well at one setting and not so well at the other depending on where they were stuck. Did you use OE sensors or at least VNE sensors? Aftermarket ones can also cause problems. When I replaced mine, it wasn't firm, it moved easily. I would also replace all the camshaft sensors and magnets, not just on one bank. They're not the most reliable parts and they have a history of going.
Replacing the manifold would definitely get rid of the P2015. The fact that it keeps coming back probably means that it's gummed up a little bit and sometimes it's there and sometimes it's not. Did you do the oil separator yet? In that kit, normally you do the oil separator and the cover. Not sure if you really need to do the hoses or the one on the other side. The 3 plugs also leak at some point. Oil separator is reverse threaded so turn the opposite to loosen/tighten. The flaps are set for either high or low rpms so it would run well at one setting and not so well at the other depending on where they were stuck. Did you use OE sensors or at least VNE sensors? Aftermarket ones can also cause problems. When I replaced mine, it wasn't firm, it moved easily. I would also replace all the camshaft sensors and magnets, not just on one bank. They're not the most reliable parts and they have a history of going.
Separator replaced in 2018 because it was leaking. Hoses not replaced. I did use OE sensors. I've replaced magnets on both banks but not sensors on bank 2. It's sounds like I need to replace the manifold.
Separator replaced in 2018 because it was leaking. Hoses not replaced. I did use OE sensors. I've replaced magnets on both banks but not sensors on bank 2. It's sounds like I need to replace the manifold.
The oil separator or the oil breather cover? It's usually the cover that leaks, the oil separator is behind the cover.
I have not yet. I guess that's the logical next step. I'm surprised my indy didn't recommend it when I went in for the manifold.
I'll grab two and replace the driver side banks. I'll let you know.
Normally you would just diagnose it first instead of basically throwing parts at it. I would do the camshaft sensors first. It could be that the timing chain is stretched. Happens but not that common.
Normally you would just diagnose it first instead of basically throwing parts at it. I would do the camshaft sensors first. It could be that the timing chain is stretched. Happens but not that common.
Yeah I'll try the sensors first. Since the cost isn't too high it's worth a shot at this point. Cars just sitting in my garage..
06-13-2021, 03:58 PM
