Heguli

Got used door modules installed today. Really easy and quick to do. Now they all communicate with the scanner, except the drivers door module is kind of locked. Nothing works. No window winder, turn signal on mirror... Tried to erase the fault codes, failed on that. Passenger side works just fine. Rear door windows don't work as they are locked on the drivers door. There is a current code about overvoltage, thought that can't be right, but there is overvoltage:



Doesn't matter if the engine is running or not, stays the same 16.4 volts. Is there anything I can do to that module, or just get another one?

Heguli

No need to pull the cover, it's as the rest of the modules I've opened, fried IC circuit. Was going to check the part number from it, but as I peeked under the cowl, it seems that I need to pull the whole assembly out. Some other day, didn't have time for it today.

But yeah, didn't realize when I bought that car, that there is no single switch that directly operates something, everything goes through a module of some sort.

CaliBenzDriver

Congrats on all these great progress lately!!

About your "16VDC/high-voltage" error with unresponsive DDCU....
Check the integrity of your grounding point under load condition (ie. window motor actuated)

Make sure GND Reference does not go floating or the skinny line got toasted during primary surge event.

At that stage I'd use the car schematic to do some DC checking before considering used replacement module is also bad.

Heguli

It's been so cold lately, that I haven't had much of a motivation to do anything whit my car. But yesterday it was slightly warmer, so I made some work with it. Didn't find any problems with the wiring, but I did manage to erase the codes, but the overvoltage code came right back. I did notice, that when the engine was running, on/off ratio circuit 58d percentage was fluctuating between the 92 and 93 percent. What this radio circuit is?

CaliBenzDriver

With Winter cold comes the best time to study your schematic within indoors comforts.

I am not sure what percentage measurement this is about:
"On/off radio circuit 58d percentage was fluctuating between the 92 and 93 percent."

Pwr surge troubleshooting:
- Try to proceed by elimination by tracing/validating as many branches as you can:

• Start at battery distribution to SAM's
• then from SAM into switched circuits
• then modules themselves

- Once you have tested power supply at the module, then scan ODB2 to map everything good vs missing...

- Make lists or whatever you see fit to organise forward activities.
No right or wrong when discovering, just good coverage delivers.

Two thumbs up for engine running!
👍👍

Heguli

I just have to admire german engineering! It was so easy to remove valvebody from the transmission, compared to GM transmissions.



Going to send that for virgin, maybe then I can drive my car.
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CaliBenzDriver

sensors coated with fine magnetised sludge 😜

The magnetic sensors on the conductor assembly are known to go bad regularly... Are you getting weird codes related to "shaft speed" error?

I am sure you've heard about the oil-in-harness killing ECU... this Siemens TCU spends its worklife immersed in hot ATF pulsing valvebody solenoids - Go figure what they were thinking

Heguli

Nope, just this:

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CaliBenzDriver

You'll need to get your "drive authorization" system working again!

Many modules work together across the bus to enable driveability.

1. Keyfob
2. Ignition switch
3. Steering Column Lock (bypass it?)
4. (keylessG)
5. ECU/TCU

The stack of modules needs to get married to your car VIN to chat with each other about matching your Keyfob.... Xentry is the tool!

Heguli

Luckily I don't have keyless go (or SBC brakes), little less problematic parts.
But yeah, I was going to take my car to dealer for programing, but they told me that since I have the 7G transmission, what they can do is to replace the TCM and program it. That, and the labor and it would've been way too expensive for the car that age and price range.
But then I knew what's the issue with the no drive condition, and after little googling around I found couple of places that suggested to virgin the TCM so it could be paired with the EIS/ELV/ECU from the donor, that are currently on my car and working.

CaliBenzDriver

Good job, figuring out how to crawl out of this pigeon hole.
​​​​​
👍

Heguli

Send out the TCM for virgin, along with the EIS to be paired with. While I had the valve body on the table, I replaced all the o-rings (total of 20 o-rings) to the solenoids, TCM where it goes through the casing, and to that little plastic tube that sits between the casing and valvebody. That tube had o-rings that were kind of squery, which made to change them all. I did also read somewhere that solenoid o-rings might go bad over time, causing shifting issues.
The I lifted the car up, was going to use service pit but it was kind of crowded, but this turned out to be much more comfy:



Definitely going to use this method when I replace the rear brakelines as they look to be quite rusty.

Bolted the valvebody to the casing, new filter and oilpan gasket, and filled the oil with this slick setup that cost me nothing:





And it drives!! Now I have some more motivation to work with it as I don't need to tow it around.

Heguli

I was thinking that brake modul didn't take the hit from the lightning, after all, it did connect with the scanner. And this was the only code:



And that sensor does work. But there was abs light present, and when I went to check what might be the cause, I found this:



When I drove the car, right rear didn't show any speed, all the rest fluctuated between the 250 and 550 km/h. And there were no readings present from switches or N49, though N49 could be read from the steering wheel modul. So the brake modul is toasted.
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CaliBenzDriver

You now have...
-- A working TCU and a well serviced tranny ready to drive many Miles.
-- The ABS module is likely toast as all wheel sensors report odd values.
-- The steering angle is reportedly bad.

With engine, tranny and brakes, you have the bulk of the work accomplished.



> Brake Controller pics:
Can you pls show us pictures on both sides of circuit board of your brake controller?
I am curious to see if the connectors are soldered or unsoldered pressed-pins - Txs!


You guessed it, the steering angle is located near the steering wheel. Actually it's hosted by Steering Control Module located between the wheel and the Instrument Cluster.


SCM controller connects many components


steering position optical encoding sensor


stalk switches sensors factory unlubed


steering press-buttons controller board

With this many electronic boards, see if you can get a deal on the complete steering column. This includes the delicate clock-spring in charge if connecting the moving steering wheel.


> HVAC Actuators:
At some point you're gonna need heat/AC, right?
​​​​​​While you have the steering column out, you will get better access to driver-side HVAC actuator modules. I believe there are 3 in each side, so 6 in total. Hard to remove from little service room.


Hvac actuator with steering removed


6x HVAC actuators (all same P/N)


electronic chip controls motor directions... RIP??


Hope this helps save your troubleshooting time.

Heguli

​​​​​Slow progress with this project. Got a used wiper motor, connected it and it works! I had a fear that there is some issue with the washer as it wasn't working. But with good motor washer works too. Rear wiper does not work either, but washer does, that's whybI suspected that windshield washer maybe has it's own controller, but luckily it's controlled via wiper motor.
Rear wiper, or tailgate lock, does not work as I found another control unit inside the tailgate that controls lock and wiper motor. I should get that unit maybe next monday.

CaliBenzDriver

While you are fixing your rear trunk.....
> the tire pressure monitoring module leaves near rear axle passenger side
> Gas tank lever sensors and gas pump.
> Gas cap lock/release

Heguli

Got some parts today, and if I have time tomorrow, I'm going to plug the modules just for fun to see what happens. Tailgate module seems to be stuck in terminal abroad, but no biggie, all good if I have it on friday, as I was going to button up all the parts that are removed. Interior *should* be in state that I don't need take it apart any time soon.
ABS module is slightly bigger job, in name of bleeding the system. And as I noted earlier, there is rusted brake lines that need to be replaced, probably I'll try to do them at the same time so I don't need to bleed the system again in near future. I'll open up the ABS module when it's taken out and share some pictures.

Steering angle sensor works, I got SCM with the N49 last summer when I noticed that I didn't have any steering column functions.

Thanks, didn't know that every HVAC motor has brains, but they do work, only thing that does not work is the recirc function, there's red light flashing on the button. But there's also heat and A/C, so that's all good. I did notice something when I mounted HVAC module, just can't remember what it was. Guess I'm going to pull it just to see what's going on.
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Heguli

Thanks, I was wondering the TPMS module location. I assume that sedan and wagon share the same location?

Heguli

Took some time to figure out how the wires were originally mounted on the cd changer housing. Good thing these are old cars, found a bunch of pictures from the interwebs for reference. Had to take the whole thing apart to get access for the control panel screws, and I did that few months ago. Did not take any pictures... Still missing one plastic bracket and couple of scews.
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Changer might be toast as all the modules have been. In that case I just dump the changer, not fan of the cd's in the car anyway, and I was going to go with Android before all this happened. Might modify the housing for secret comparment for wallet or something.

CaliBenzDriver

> TPMS module:
I can't seem to locate the pictures I took of the mounting location. It's over rear passenger side axle, need to remove that wheel to gain access...
here is my module for size reference.


well built TPMS Module


> HVAC air inlet:
As for your HVAC recirculation control, look at the end of the dashboard all the way up: that's where the fresh-air flap actuator module works.
You'll need to remove gl9ve box and work upside down for that gem: easy to pop but hard to align back-in!
(noted M2/5 in the following diagram)

reference HVAC system 5x actuator modules

Heguli

Thank you! These are secondary issues atm, but it's good to know where to look for them.

CaliBenzDriver

I came across this W211 diagram of all your modules.


big picture of networked modules

Hope this map helps track your victories

Heguli

Thanks, but I already had that, got it from bbirdwell last July.

Heguli

Solved this. Got another used module, plugged it in and everything works! Like I suspected, other one was kind of locked and iCarsoft at least could not erase the code so the module would work correctly.
But anyway, now all the doors work, cetral lock etc, and tailgate opens from the drivers door, but doesn't close from the button at the tailgate. There was issues prior the ligthning, I had to push the button repeatedly and sometimes even that didn't work. Well, found the issue:



Some water damage. Tried to clean that up, but still doesn't work. Need to take a closer look that there is a continuity from the wiring harness to the circuit board.

Heguli

Whole summer went by, and I didn't do much about anything to my car. Except after the ABS module change I had to bleed the brakes. And doing that, I blew the right rear brake line!! I knew they were in bad shape, but didn't realize that they were that bad! Luckily it happened now, but really didn't want that mess to be sorted just at the moment when there's lot more to figure out. So it kind of just sat for about two months. I did fix the brake lines (left rear was as bad as the right), bled them, and now I have almost good brakes (some air still trapped in there).
But, there's still the same issue as before, different module didn't change anything. Now I'm wondering that is there some other module that I haven't noticed. Older W211's had a ABS module next to a front SAM, and ABS pump was a separate unit. My car has nothing else than a front SAM in the left rear corner of the engine bay.
I found out something weird, though. When the car is standing still, and I'm reading the speed sensors, notice the front leftt sensor. Shifter on park:



Shifter in reverse:



Shifter in neutral:



And shifter in drive:



Why does the sensor reading change in relation to the shifter position? Transmission module, neither shifter module has no codes, and both are working as should.

I would really like to get the wiring diagram for the speed sensors, so I can measure them, just to rule out parts that work. I found couple diagrams from the interwebs, but they didn't apply to my car. Vin is WDB2112201A993821