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I have large brake fluid leak near the driver's side passenger door. After raising the car and removing the covers I found that part of the brake line has completely corroded. See photo. The rest of the line upstream looks very good, but not the downstream part. I am trying to save myself a hassle of replacing the entire line. I am thinking about cutting it a bit upstream from the rotten part and replacing the piece through the end. I have a double flare tool for 3/16'' and a piece of 3/16'' line. The OEM line is 4.75 mm. Will this work? Or do I really need to have 4.75 mm flaring tool and 4.75 mm line? I am thinking about making 3 flares: 2 for the union and one for the fitting to the caliper hose. I would disconnect the existing line first at the caliper, then cut it upstream of the rot, then get it out, pre-shape my new line, flare both ends, flare the existing line under the car (will probably need to drop it down a little) and then connect with the union and fitting to the hose. Then bleed this line. Put some marine grade grease over it. I have a brake pump and brake tank cap adapter for it. Does this sound reasonable? Thanks.
I think I bought the wrong flaring tool. It has to be bubble, not double, right? Where do I get the needed fittings? What fittings do I need to make a union and to replace the fitting at the hose? Thanks.
Last edited by ilya980; Aug 14, 2021 at 08:09 PM.
Reason: additional informaton
My VIN is WDBUF87X28B306312. I got the parts diagram and it does not match to what I am actually seeing. According to this diagram the part number I need is A1234200029. (340 on the picture). It should be 2000 mm (2 m) long. This picture shows that the line going to the rear left wheel has 2 parts: 330 and 340 connected with the spacer element A1214290134 (350). I only see one solid line on the car that starts at the caliper brake hose, goes along the body and then dives under the heat shield near the driver side downstream O2 sensor. Then the line comes up and goes all around the engine compartment to the junction box on the front passenger side. Why is it? Is it common for the MB to use single line instead of 2 pieces like on the diagram? Is my diagram wrong? Is the connector 350 hidden somewhere, like under the heat shield so I am not seeing it?
How do I repair this? Should I order the whole line and 2 new 360 (A0004280472 Retaining Screw M10x1) connectors? Will the line be correct length and pre-flared? If so, which part number do I need? Should I order 330,340,350 and then 4x360 instead to connect them and have a splice like this diagram suggests? Will I need to remove heat shields to run the line through the engine compartment and near the downstream O2 sensor? Thanks.
Here’s VIN specific parts info. I think it best to visit your local MB dealer parts counter, not necessarily to purchase, but rather confirm what is needed.
This is very helpful! Thanks! So, part 330 is no longer available and part 340 is replaced by a single 5000 mm long line. Fitting 350 is no longer used. Could you please post the info that is written next to part 340 ("[409 001415] to be adapted during assembly")? Maybe it will say if it comes pre-flared and with or without end piece connectors. Are there instructions for removal and installation? I assume it will come straight or in a roll and I would bend it under the car. Thanks! Unfortunately, I live far from the nearest dealer.
Do you have a recommendation for the right flaring tool and the bender for this job? What is "Brake line flaring tool B_42/43.2_04.0" in the WIS? Thanks.
Last edited by ilya980; Aug 15, 2021 at 11:13 PM.
Reason: additional informaton
Thanks a lot! Ordered the line, 2 retaining screws, flaring tool, bender, and brake fluid. Will need to find some similar tubing to practice the flares. Are the lines zinc-coated steel?
Last edited by ilya980; Aug 16, 2021 at 11:31 PM.
Reason: typo
I replaced the brake line. No leaks. Bled the rear left line. With car turned off the brake pedal is somewhat firm, but goes to the floor with a bit of effort. Started the car, the brake pedal goes to the floor very easily. How do I properly bleed the brakes? Do I bleed all 4 lines if I replaced just one line? Do I have to turn some kind of special mode for the car to bleed properly? I have automatic brake pump that attaches to the brake fluid tank. Thanks.
I have not done bleeding of MB brakes myself (but several other brands in the past) Once the system is open I would flush the old fluid completely, and I would bleed every existing line in the system. From the farthest to the master cylinder to the closest.
There must be some video explaining the process in more detail (an example below). I recall reading MB process pressurizes the system when bleeding the system. I would also take into consideration if you have an SBC system (not a clue on those)
Attached is the procedure I found in WIS for my car. VIN WDBUF87X28B306312.Do I have SBC? It is 211087 2008 E350 4matic. Is the correct opening sequence rear right, rear left, front left, front right? Will need to pump brake pedal. Have pressure bleeder that can do 2 bars.
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