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Potential new W211 wagon owner, am I doing it right?
Hello MB World. I have probably burned out the fans on my wife's laptop watching YouTube videos, researching on forums/interwebz, and reading up on the wealth of information from FCP Euro trying understand how to make a smart decision buying a used W211 wagon. It seems like both 2003-06 and 2007-09 have their own issues, but as I've learned with all German cars you just have to understand them and know what you're getting into. And of course do your best to get a car that has been maintained with a decent history.
Would you agree my understanding below is pretty accurate overall regarding W211 wagon issues? Are there others I have missed?
Common potential issues for ALL years(emphasis on potential, I realize only the bad stuff gets talked about on the internet):
- Airmatic compressor burning out, and/or air lines/bags torn/collapsed
- Rear airbags on non-Airmatic cars torn/collapsed
- Broken rear springs on base cars
- Motor and transmission mounts leaking
- Main and auxiliary battery dying
- Alternator
- Front control arm bushings
- Power steering reservoir There are probably more small things I do not know...?
Common potential issues for 2003-06 (main issues in red):
- Valeo radiator cracking/leaking into transmission
- SBC brake controller/pump failure (I have read Mercedes extended the recall coverage to 25 years for this issue? 25 years from when??)
- 3.2L M112 oil consumption/leaks in multiple areas
- Electricals in general
- Transmission conductor plate
Common potential issues for 2007-09 (main issues in red):
- M272 balance shaft sprocket stripping (I have been looking for cars with an engine serial # higher than 2729..30 468993)
- Engine thermostat
- Secondary air pump
- Intake manifold swirl flaps breaking
- Upper idler pulley worn bearings
Given all this I am currently limiting my search to 2009 only, yes this extremely limits results. But it being the last model year it seems like Mercedes corrected many things. I like that they got rid of the SBC brake system, cleaned up electricals, the M272 likely has less oil leaks than an M112, and I just like the updated fascia's (subjective of course). I am not in a hurry to buy, and it being my first German car I prefer to set myself up for as safe an ownership experience as possible. Of course I expect issues, that's cars for you. But I can wrench on them myself of manageable things so that helps. I'm sure I'll have to invest in a few new tools though!
I am waiting on a dealer to give me the engine serial number, they sent me a pic of a label which I believe was the oil cooler housing (they are not local to me). I found a YouTube video with a guy showing where it is (albeit combined with interesting music haha), is this accurate for the 3.5L in the W211? Anyone have something better for me to instruct someone on finding the 14 digit engine serial number?
When I get the number I will post it here, just to confirm I should not have to worry about balance shaft sprocket issues. Which I wouldn't think I would in a 2009? Then again I believe the car was manufactured in late 2008...sigh. Freakin cars, amiright?
Thanks for reading, I welcome any and all helpful feedback. I think my excitement outweighs my fears haha. Plus I refuse to drive an SUV or crossover and I need a wagon with a 3rd row that's pretty affordable to buy...so the W211 wagon is kind of it.
If you have the car's VIN run it through here:
lastvin.com
it'll tell you quite a lot about the car, including (I think) the engine serial number.
It's good to see you're doing your research and asking good questions.
Ask for the picture/photo of the sticker on the driver side B pillar, it has the month, year of manufacturing, and the car's VIN. Get it straight from
the photo, not retyping
Run it through a VIN decoder, as suggested above, confirm the information and get the additional information you will need to complete your decision.
I know there are sedans without SBC, fuel tank issues, higher engine serial number, new fascia, etc from 04/2008. Not sure about wagons
Some, or most, 2008's (2007 build dates) are safe from the balance shaft issue. Leaking fuel tanks are a big problem, around $3,000 to repair. MB has an extended warranty from 15 years after the original warranty start date. Some 2008's are out of the warranty period but most 2009's are still ok. If the fuel tank hasn't been replaced ever, you should assume it's leaking. Rear seat release handles are plastic and tend to break from age...at least in warmer climates AFAIK. Around $1000 to have replaced, and parts availability from MB is getting scarce. Headlight wiring insulation cracks inside the headlights. If the transmission hasn't been serviced every 40k miles, don't expect it to last much past 150k miles.
All 2007-2009 wagons in the U.S. are only 4matic . They have the bulletproof 5 speed transmission where the sedans of those years have the 7 speed, but only if 2wd. The 7 speed can be slightly more problematic, but once it has updated parts it's pretty good, and those extra 2 gears are nice.
What's your price range /mileage?
And remember....there's nothing more expensive than a "cheap" Mercedes!
I also sent you a PM.
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; 11-10-2021 at 11:01 PM.
Thanks to rapidoxidation for the lastvin website. It lists the engine serial number as 272972 31 035318, so I guess it is past/above 2729..30 468993, and safe from the balance shaft sprocket issue. Right?
Originally Posted by rapidoxidation
If you have the car's VIN run it through here:
lastvin.com
it'll tell you quite a lot about the car, including (I think) the engine serial number.
It's good to see you're doing your research and asking good questions.
That site did list the engine serial number, thank you for that! Yes trying to do my research but I am seeing some things said that I did not find, like the fuel tank leaking, so apparently I have missed some things.
Originally Posted by juanmor40
Ask for the picture/photo of the sticker on the driver side B pillar, it has the month, year of manufacturing, and the car's VIN. Get it straight from
the photo, not retyping
Run it through a VIN decoder, as suggested above, confirm the information and get the additional information you will need to complete your decision.
I know there are sedans without SBC, fuel tank issues, higher engine serial number, new fascia, etc from 04/2008. Not sure about wagons
I will get the photo of the sticker on the driver side B pillar, thank you for being descriptive. Are you saying that sedans made after 04/2008 will not have fuel tank issues? Yes I wonder too if wagons would follow suit with that.
Regarding SBC, I have read that Mercedes won't replace it unless it has failed, so you can't just take your car in and ask them to do it and you have to actually experience the problem first. Is that accurate or no? And once it is replaced, is it fixed permanently or could it fail in the same way again?
Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
Some, or most, 2008's (2007 build dates) are safe from the balance shaft issue. Leaking fuel tanks are a big problem, around $3,000 to repair. MB has an extended warranty from 15 years after the original warranty start date. Some 2008's are out of the warranty period but most 2009's are still ok. If the fuel tank hasn't been replaced ever, you should assume it's leaking. Rear seat release handles are plastic and tend to break from age...at least in warmer climates AFAIK. Around $1000 to have replaced, and parts availability from MB is getting scarce. Headlight wiring insulation cracks inside the headlights. If the transmission hasn't been serviced every 40k miles, don't expect it to last much past 150k miles.
All 2007-2009 wagons in the U.S. are only 4matic . They have the bulletproof 5 speed transmission where the sedans of those years have the 7 speed, but only if 2wd. The 7 speed can be slightly more problematic, but once it has updated parts it's pretty good, and those extra 2 gears are nice.
What's your price range /mileage?
And remember....there's nothing more expensive than a "cheap" Mercedes!
I also sent you a PM.
Great. So fuel tank issues I did not know, was this ever remedied in later models? How bad is the problem? Is this something I can get a dealer to replace proactively or do I have to present evidence of it leaking in order for them to do anything?
How can I verify the original warranty start date? Lastvin.com shows dates for 'release date' and 'delivery date', but I am thinking warranty start date is when the first owner buys it and the title and/or registration is issued. The Carfax shows first owner reported/registration issued on 4/9/2009. Would that be the warranty start date?
If the seat handles break, and I can get hold of replacements (or buy them pre-emptively), that sounds like a DIY job? Speaking of seats, what is MB Tex-Leather? Is that fake leather or leatherette or something?
Are the headlights sealed with RTV or something I can separate the lens from the housing in the event I had to repair wiring insulation?
Carfax shows maintenance performed under many mileage intervals, but does not detail what that was. Car was service by a dealer through owner #2's stint with the car. Owner #3 put 17k on it, was not serviced at a dealer. I am going to try and call the dealer from owner #1/2 to see if they will release the service records for the car.
Someone told me the conductor plate fails in later cars and that it’s an SCN coded part so there’s third party work to repair or enable a good used one, or pay the dealer for a new one. This is transmission related, right? Is this common or rare?
Right now thinking $12k and around 100k miles +/-. But obviously I'm still learning. The idea was to find one with a good history with major known issues having been addressed. Then take care of regular maintenance any minor issues myself as they arise. I can wrench on cars so should be able to handle anything that's not too crazy or involved. I'm sure I'll have to invest in a few new tools though.
Thanks to rapidoxidation for the lastvin website. It lists the engine serial number as 272972 31 035318, so I guess it is past/above 2729..30 468993, and safe from the balance shaft sprocket issue. Right?
YES
That site did list the engine serial number, thank you for that! Yes trying to do my research but I am seeing some things said that I did not find, like the fuel tank leaking, so apparently I have missed some things.
I will get the photo of the sticker on the driver side B pillar, thank you for being descriptive. Are you saying that sedans made after 04/2008 will not have fuel tank issues? Yes I wonder too if wagons would follow suit with that.
NOT NECESSARILY. THERE ARE 4 POSSIBLE FAILURES. THE FUEL TANK ITSELF LEAKING; THE FUEL PUMP HAT; THE FUEL FILTER HAT; OR ALL 3
Regarding SBC, I have read that Mercedes won't replace it unless it has failed, so you can't just take your car in and ask them to do it and you have to actually experience the problem first. Is that accurate or no? And once it is replaced, is it fixed permanently or could it fail in the same way again?
THERE MUST BE A CURRENT AND SPECIFIC FAULT IN THE SBC SYSTEM TO HAVE IT REPAIRED UNDER THE EXTENDED WARRANTY. IT MAY GO BAD AGAIN; GENERALLY THE SBC UNIT IS GOOD FOR 100K MILES
Great. So fuel tank issues I did not know, was this ever remedied in later models? How bad is the problem? Is this something I can get a dealer to replace proactively or do I have to present evidence of it leaking in order for them to do anything?
IT WAS NEVER REMEDIED IN THE 211 CHASSIS. THE NEW TANKS HAVE A NEW MATERIAL BREATHER UP TOP THAT PREVENTS IT FROM LEAKING AGAIN. IT MUST HAVE AN ACTIVE LEAK TO QUALIFY FOR THE WARRANTY REPLACEMENT
How can I verify the original warranty start date? Lastvin.com shows dates for 'release date' and 'delivery date', but I am thinking warranty start date is when the first owner buys it and the title and/or registration is issued. The Carfax shows first owner reported/registration issued on 4/9/2009. Would that be the warranty start date?
A DEALERSHIP VMI IS THE ONLY WAY TO KNOW 100% THE WARRANTY START DATE. DEALERS GENERALLY WILL NOT GIVE YOU A COPY BUT YOU CAN CALL AND ASK IF THE FUEL TANK IS STILL COVERED
If the seat handles break, and I can get hold of replacements (or buy them pre-emptively), that sounds like a DIY job? Speaking of seats, what is MB Tex-Leather? Is that fake leather or leatherette or something?
IT'S NOT A HUGE JOB, PARTIALLY PULL BACK THE LEATHER COVER AND REMOVE 2 BOLTS. MB TEX IS A SIMULATED LEATHER SIMILAR TO VINYL AND HOLDS UP NICELY OVER TIME
Are the headlights sealed with RTV or something I can separate the lens from the housing in the event I had to repair wiring insulation?
YES, BUT USUALLY IT MAKES MORE SENSE TO REPLACE THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY, AS THE LENSES ARE LIKELY YELLOWED AND THE CHROME INSIDE MAY BE DEGRADING
Carfax shows maintenance performed under many mileage intervals, but does not detail what that was. Car was service by a dealer through owner #2's stint with the car. Owner #3 put 17k on it, was not serviced at a dealer. I am going to try and call the dealer from owner #1/2 to see if they will release the service records for the car.
DEALERS WILL GENERALLY NOT RELEASE SERVICE RECORDS
Someone told me the conductor plate fails in later cars and that it’s an SCN coded part so there’s third party work to repair or enable a good used one, or pay the dealer for a new one. This is transmission related, right? Is this common or rare?
IT'S COMMON ON THE EARLY 722.9 7 SPEED TRANNY AND WAS RESOLVED AROUND 2010 OR SO
Right now thinking $12k and around 100k miles +/-. But obviously I'm still learning. The idea was to find one with a good history with major known issues having been addressed. Then take care of regular maintenance any minor issues myself as they arise. I can wrench on cars so should be able to handle anything that's not too crazy or involved. I'm sure I'll have to invest in a few new tools though.
YOU'RE CLOSE, ONCE THEY HIT 100K MILES THE PRICE DROPS EXPONENTIALLY, BUT BEWARE A $12K 110K MILE WAGON THAT NEEDS $4K WORTH OF REPAIRS OR DEFERRED MAINT....MIGHT AS WELL PAY A LITTLE MORE FOR A LOWER MILEAGE EXAMPLE THAT HAS A GOOD SERVICE HISTORY
I replied to your PM, sir.
Sorry for the caps! It was supposed to be bold type and red color ??
Thanks for all the responses everyone. This is why I love forums.
Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
Sorry for the caps! It was supposed to be bold type and red color ??
No worries!
You are right, the dealer that serviced the car for owners 1 and 2 would not release the records to me. BUT, and maybe I got lucky, I talked to a generous human being who went through the entire history with me from 2018 back to 2009 when the car was sold (car was serviced by a non dealer shop from 2018 to 2021 during which time owner put ~17k miles on it). He gave me dates and mileages with service descriptions...it was incredible and I thanked him profusely. One of the interesting things he found was that there was an engine replacement at 15k miles due to water induction damage. He said the air intake is low on these cars and between the road condition and deluge of rain common in that area, the owner drove through a deep puddle and the intake sucked it up which got it into the engine and a connnecting rod busted through the block (car has over 90k on it now since). Yeah, my first thought was flood car too.
Regarding the fuel tank, I was surprised to learn there was a fuel tank warranty extension and a 2009 could still have that valid into 2024.
Glad the conductor plate/valve body issue is specific to the 7spd auto's. So the 5spd really is bulletproof then, IF it has had regular fluid changes. This is something that is concerning, the 2nd trans fluid flush should have been done under owner 3's stint with the car since they got it at 70k miles. Trying to find that record somewhere...that will make me feel good. And may end up the final thing to make me feel comfortable purchasing this particular example!
I agree with your last point, no argument there. Let me know if you want to try and work something out per your last comment, I've been wearing down my wife's ear.
The very first trans. service at 40k is the most important. It's when the fluid is dirtiest, just guessing maybe from the new transmission "wearing in." I've done a lot of these services myself, and always at the 80k the fluid looks pretty good, sometimes to the point I question whether it's really needed again. Coincidentally, tomorrow I'm changing the trans. fluid on my wife's 2011 ML350 for the 80k. It was done at 40k so.Im curious to see how it looks. At one point on some models, MB specified the trans service only "once at 39k miles." which is telling. My point is, if the second service is done later, even at 90k or 100k miles, it's probably fine. The trouble spot is the one with 100k that's NEVER been serviced.
The very first trans. service at 40k is the most important. It's when the fluid is dirtiest, just guessing maybe from the new transmission "wearing in." I've done a lot of these services myself, and always at the 80k the fluid looks pretty good, sometimes to the point I question whether it's really needed again. Coincidentally, tomorrow I'm changing the trans. fluid on my wife's 2011 ML350 for the 80k. It was done at 40k so.Im curious to see how it looks. At one point on some models, MB specified the trans service only "once at 39k miles." which is telling. My point is, if the second service is done later, even at 90k or 100k miles, it's probably fine. The trouble spot is the one with 100k that's NEVER been serviced.
Interesting. Well I'd be curious to hear what you find today with the trans fluid in your wife's ML. Records for the trans fluid show it was last flushed in May of 2014 at 41,959 miles. Car currently has ~92k miles.
Other things the dealer told me about the car. Vehicle offered for sale 8/21/2008. Warranty in-service date was 4/03/2009. But first time the dealer serviced the car was 8/2010...so maybe that first 16 months it was an exec's personal car or something?
General info:
- engine serial # falls outside of balance shaft sprocket issue
- has fuel tank warranty extension, good until 4/02/2024
- camshaft solenoids have been replaced and harness extensions were added to prevent oil wicking up
- air suspension leveling sensor replaced
Big services dealer told me when I called (was writing like a mad man, I may have missed something):
Owner #1 (all dealer service):
8/2010 / 15,258mi - power steering pump replaced
9/2010 / 15,410 - new motor replacement done by dealer (service record said older lady drove through deep puddle)
Owner #2: (all dealer service):
5//2011 / 18,745 - B service
5/2012 / 24,000 - A service
10/2012 / 30,000 - master switch for door lock replaced
5/2013 / 34,137 - B service
5/2014 / 41,959 - A service, Brake fluid flush, Trans fluid flush
6/2015 / 48,368 - B service, Coolant flush
4/2016 / 56,000 - A service, Left rear seat handle replaced
4/2017 / 66,000 - B service, Left and Right inner CV boots replaced, cabin air filter replaced
9/2017 / 70,000 - Airmatic compressor replaced, left rear airspring replaced, front/rear brake pads replaced, (wear?) sensor replaced
1/2018 - CD player replaced
4/2018 / 74,182 - Service A, Brake fluid flush
10/2018 - Right rear airspring replaced
Owner #3 (oil changes performed by a Citgo service station...WTF)
7/2019 / 79,709 - Oil & filter changed
5/2021 / 89,629 - Oil & filter changed, body lubricated
So what do we think overall? Seems like some key things have been addressed, and others like the upper idler pulley and intake manifold swirl flaps I would just do myself when I get the car. It's exempt from balance shaft thing. Then other things like the fuel tank are still under warranty. I don't love the fact it needed a new engine but the work was done by the dealer and that was at 15,000 miles and the car has gone 77,000 miles since...this seems ok. The only thing I don't know how I feel about is the 2.75 years / 17,000 miles it spent with owner #3.
Other general info:
- 2009
- 3 owner
- has ~92k miles
- carfax says no accidents reported, 34 service records
- being offered for sale at a used car lot (sales guy says he bought it from a personal friend), for ~$10,000
That sounds like a decent service history. The trans. service being past due by 10k miles isn't something to worry about. Front CV axles are a wear item, even though the boots were replaced I'd still get a look at them, they are expensive and the aftermarket options tend to cause vibrations.
My wife's ML trans fluid didn't look terrible, it had lost it's blue color (all 211's will have the older red fluid) and turned slightly brown but was still transparent/clear after 40k miles. I did drain the torque converter and used a full 9 liters of new fluid. Not all models have a torque converter drain plug, and if you're in a rust state I'd be real careful if it does.
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; 11-14-2021 at 09:31 PM.
How are the bixenon adaptive headlights on these cars? Do they generally last or are they fragile? The lights in my ATS turn with the road but the car is 7 years old so a little newer.
Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
That sounds like a decent service history. The trans. service being past due by 10k miles isn't something to worry about. Front CV axles are a wear item, even though the boots were replaced I'd still get a look at them, they are expensive and the aftermarket options tend to cause vibrations.
The euro shop I may use to do the PPI said their inspection is all visual, is that pretty standard? Will they be able to see what they need to with the CV axles visually? They said they don't take stuff apart unless it's a simple access panel or engine cover or something. Guessing due to liability reasons or something, I'm sure they are more than capable. They did say they will drive the car. I will ask them to see what they can see with the rear main seal also. I imagine they check fluid levels and condition, seems a basic thing to do.
I think the history is decent too. The thing that worries me is the last 2yrs 9mos / 17k miles under the 3rd owner. Who takes a Mercedes to a Citgo service station? Unless it's one of those rare instances of a no name shop doing extraordinary work. Or maybe the car didn't need anything other than regular maintenance, and maybe that's why there is nothing but oil changes listed since no coolant, brake flush, etc service intervals fall within 17k miles. I may try and call them to see if they can share anything with me.
Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
My wife's ML trans fluid didn't look terrible, it had lost it's blue color (all 211's will have the older red fluid) and turned slightly brown but was still transparent/clear after 40k miles. I did drain the torque converter and used a full 9 liters of new fluid. Not all models have a torque converter drain plug, and if you're in a rust state I'd be real careful if it does.
Nice, so the fluid had life left. If I get this car I'll just change the fluid immediately. Also I'll change the upper idler pulley, and check the IM swirl flaps. Think everything else major has been addressed.
Wherever you are working on the car looks like a super nice place to do so. Wish I had a lift hah.
Update. Called the garage that serviced the vehicle under owner #3 (Citgo service station), despite my polite request to get info about the car and nothing about the owner they declined to provide anything. I guess I figured since the MB dealer gave me everything and the kitchen sink that this would not be a big deal either, but oh well.
Provided the good history the car has with the first 2 owners which is the majority of the time anyway, and everything else I think the car has going for it, I am going to go ahead and ask the used car lot to drop it off at a euro shop for a PPI. If they say no, then this one's dead. If they say yes, then I'll wait for the PPI results....if good, maybe buy the car. If there's some bad things, depending on severity I'll use that as a bargaining chip to buy the car, or dismiss the car altogether if it's major stuff. More to come.
I have been looking on autotempest, autotrader, carsandbids, and bringatrailer. Occasionally glance at germancarsforsaleblog, craiglist, and general google search as well. I don't see any for sale in the forums. If anyone has other sources I could be looking at, feel free to let me know. Thanks for all the help so far.
Wish the W212's had come down more by now, even ones with 140k miles are the same price as W211's with 40-50k miles less. Love the way the W212 wagons look too.
Update. Called the garage that serviced the vehicle under owner #3 (Citgo service station), despite my polite request to get info about the car and nothing about the owner they declined to provide anything. I guess I figured since the MB dealer gave me everything and the kitchen sink that this would not be a big deal either, but oh well.
Provided the good history the car has with the first 2 owners which is the majority of the time anyway, and everything else I think the car has going for it, I am going to go ahead and ask the used car lot to drop it off at a euro shop for a PPI. If they say no, then this one's dead. If they say yes, then I'll wait for the PPI results....if good, maybe buy the car. If there's some bad things, depending on severity I'll use that as a bargaining chip to buy the car, or dismiss the car altogether if it's major stuff. More to come.
I have been looking on autotempest, autotrader, carsandbids, and bringatrailer. Occasionally glance at germancarsforsaleblog, craiglist, and general google search as well. I don't see any for sale in the forums. If anyone has other sources I could be looking at, feel free to let me know. Thanks for all the help so far.
Wish the W212's had come down more by now, even ones with 140k miles are the same price as W211's with 40-50k miles less. Love the way the W212 wagons look too.
There's a huge price gap between 211 and 212 wagons for some reason.I think the 211 looks better, especially the headlights. When the 212 sedan was released, it wasn't met with much excitement. I feel like the 212 design looks aged already.
The rear diff can be a common problem in these cars. I may have missed it if someone else mentioned it but I have a 2009 and the rear diff started going around 90K and was loud as hell by 94K. Dealer wanted to replace the whole thing for $4600. Little Bear Auto Aignment in NY repaired it with new bearings for $1500.He told me the original bearings were too weak and he'd done 30 of these cars. Newer bearing are beefed up. Hard to find anyone who does this repair. Anyway, listen to the rear.
And BTW, wagons rock! It's the most efficient design for a car I can imagine. I use mine like a truck... Boating equipment, fishing gear, etc. Such a shame there are so few choices out there.. 121K and I'll drive it until it or I die, whichever comes first.
There's a huge price gap between 211 and 212 wagons for some reason.I think the 211 looks better, especially the headlights. When the 212 sedan was released, it wasn't met with much excitement. I feel like the 212 design looks aged already.
I like the front of the 211, it aged well and has a certain elegance to it. I also appreciate the sharp more angular design of the 212 front end, looks more aggressive and sporty. I like the back of the 212 wagon more with those "rear haunches" in the quarter panels, 211 looks a little more "old fashioned". I think both wagon variants look better than their sedan counterparts though, I'd be happy to have either.
Originally Posted by drchpeteros
The rear diff can be a common problem in these cars. I may have missed it if someone else mentioned it but I have a 2009 and the rear diff started going around 90K and was loud as hell by 94K. Dealer wanted to replace the whole thing for $4600. Little Bear Auto Aignment in NY repaired it with new bearings for $1500.He told me the original bearings were too weak and he'd done 30 of these cars. Newer bearing are beefed up. Hard to find anyone who does this repair. Anyway, listen to the rear.
And BTW, wagons rock! It's the most efficient design for a car I can imagine. I use mine like a truck... Boating equipment, fishing gear, etc. Such a shame there are so few choices out there.. 121K and I'll drive it until it or I die, whichever comes first.
Thanks for sharing your experience, I had not had anyone mention the rear diff to me yet. I guess I can't plan for everything. I'll listen for a grind or high pitched whine that increases with RPM, which I think are usual signs of bad diff. Glad you found a shop that would disassemble and repair the assembly, dealers always just want to replace everything. I plan to find a good euro shop if I end up with one of these.
If car makers had advertised their wagons properly (or at all), perhaps they could have changed the typical American's perspective. People in this country still see them as the old woody family hauler. But people don't realize wagons are capable haulers, they handle better, they get better gas mileage, and they often look better than a lot of crossovers and SUV's.
Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
This one just sold for crazy money! I still insist the 211 was the best E-class ever.
I looked at that 5 hours to close and it was at $13k. Insane.
I wonder where it sat all those years it wasn't accumulating miles though. I'm sure there's lot of rubbers and other things that are not in good shape from the car not having been driven.
I wanted your wagon but the other costs I'd have to add in like C&B fees, tax, traveling to Florida, etc became too much unfortunately. Hope the new owner treats it well.
Car was sold over the weekend. Good thing I called the dealer to make sure before the inspection tomorrow morning, because they did not call to tell me. Can't depend on people to do their jobs these days.
Anyway if anyone comes upon a good one let me know. Search continues...
Car was sold over the weekend. Good thing I called the dealer to make sure before the inspection tomorrow morning, because they did not call to tell me. Can't depend on people to do their jobs these days.
Anyway if anyone comes upon a good one let me know. Search continues...
Right now I'm leaning toward 2008-09 (possibly 2007 if the engine serial # is past the affected units), 100k miles or less (ideally), and maybe between $10-14k. And of course desire well kept car with good maintenance history. Color not too particular on, though kind of tired of seeing the tan interior. I know my window is tiny though, so I can't be too picky, and I won't be. I don't need the fancier models with the headlight washers, HID headlights, etc. Not sure how durable those items are in these cars. I am avoiding cars with the full Airmatic suspension.
I will say there is one 2004 I found with good history that is tempting, but I keep my cars forever and I wonder about after that 25yr SBC extended warranty expires & having to deal with that. Even if I can take advantage of the warranty, the unit will go bad again (I've read around 100k miles seems typical?) and after the warranty is gone then it's a big expensive problem again. Or are the revised SBC units fixed and won't have the same issue as the initially affected ones? Guess I'm not clear on those specifics.
In general earlier years concern me just with the initially more complex systems, riskier electricals, etc. Also absence of features like window shades in 2nd row, or at least I haven't seen those in any 04-05's I've come across. Will not consider 2006 unless it is documented as having the balance shaft/sprocket replaced with the revised unit. I prefer the revised front bumper cover and side skirts on the 2007-09 as well, just for aesthetic reasons.
I don't know that all these thoughts are concrete, it's just what's swirling around in my head right now. But hey, you asked haha.
11-10-2021, 01:41 PM
I think my excitement outweighs my fears haha. Plus I refuse to drive an SUV or crossover and I need a wagon with a 3rd row that's pretty affordable to buy...so the W211 wagon is kind of it.
