E350 starts and then stops
#1
E350 starts and then stops
Hello folks,
I had a crank but does not start condition with my 2006 E350 sedan and found the aux batt voltage low.
I put a Moskee 12V 12Ah battery in and now it starts but keeps hitting the starter and it stalls out.
Anyone have any luck with non-Mercedes aux batteries?
I have a iCarsoft scanner and tried to do a reset to the aux batt and it says comm failed.
Am I overlooking something else that needs resetting?
This hitting the starter multiple times is strange.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I had a crank but does not start condition with my 2006 E350 sedan and found the aux batt voltage low.
I put a Moskee 12V 12Ah battery in and now it starts but keeps hitting the starter and it stalls out.
Anyone have any luck with non-Mercedes aux batteries?
I have a iCarsoft scanner and tried to do a reset to the aux batt and it says comm failed.
Am I overlooking something else that needs resetting?
This hitting the starter multiple times is strange.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
#2
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @55kMi
what gives...
Hello folks,
I had a crank but does not start condition with my 2006 E350 sedan and found the aux batt voltage low.
I put a Moskee 12V 12Ah battery in and now it starts but keeps hitting the starter and it stalls out.
....
I have a iCarsoft scanner and tried to do a reset to the aux batt and it says comm failed.
.....
I had a crank but does not start condition with my 2006 E350 sedan and found the aux batt voltage low.
I put a Moskee 12V 12Ah battery in and now it starts but keeps hitting the starter and it stalls out.
....
I have a iCarsoft scanner and tried to do a reset to the aux batt and it says comm failed.
.....
Are you getting any other faults besides "comm failed" message? Check live fuel pressure PID.
Check your car ALT/BATT Voltage is within range... not below 11V, correct?
(unlikely the ESL/EIS tandem here because starter does activates)
At some point, consider a battery float followed by a disconnect reboot.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 02-20-2022 at 06:39 PM.
#3
Be sure to prefer OEM parts but here I don't think multiple AUX batteries will bring you relief.
Are you getting any other faults besides "comm failed" message? Check live fuel pressure PID.
Check your car ALT/BATT Voltage is within range... not below 11V, correct?
(unlikely the ESL/EIS tandem here because starter does activates)
At some point, consider a battery float followed by a disconnect reboot.
Are you getting any other faults besides "comm failed" message? Check live fuel pressure PID.
Check your car ALT/BATT Voltage is within range... not below 11V, correct?
(unlikely the ESL/EIS tandem here because starter does activates)
At some point, consider a battery float followed by a disconnect reboot.
Thanks for the response.
I just wanted to update after doing some rechecks.
I did a cold boot by disconnecting the aux and main batts.
While disconnected I went through the car and checked the fuses.
So far all fuses check good.
Because of the weather (going down to zero) in one afternoon I have to stop my troubleshooting.
It looks like it won't be until next week when the temperature is above freezing.
Thanks for the input though.
#4
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
The auxiliary battery is not the problem. It is there to provide power to the SBC unit if the electrical bus fails.
Look elsewhere. Main battery, starter, relay in front SAM, EIS, etc. Need more info that what you have in your original post.
Air, fuel, spark. One of those is screwed up. Put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail. Ensure no towel is stuck in the intake. Find a way to check for spark. Could be as simple as a failed Crankshaft or Camshaft Position Sensor. Could be a bad fuel pump relay. It is not the auxiliary battery; the car will run fine without it (right up until the main bus fails and you have minimal brakes in a 4200 pound car barreling down the highway).
Look elsewhere. Main battery, starter, relay in front SAM, EIS, etc. Need more info that what you have in your original post.
Air, fuel, spark. One of those is screwed up. Put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail. Ensure no towel is stuck in the intake. Find a way to check for spark. Could be as simple as a failed Crankshaft or Camshaft Position Sensor. Could be a bad fuel pump relay. It is not the auxiliary battery; the car will run fine without it (right up until the main bus fails and you have minimal brakes in a 4200 pound car barreling down the highway).
Last edited by bbirdwell; 02-21-2022 at 10:34 PM.
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CaliBenzDriver (03-06-2022)
#5
The auxiliary battery is not the problem. It is there to provide power to the SBC unit if the electrical bus fails.
Look elsewhere. Main battery, starter, relay in front SAM, EIS, etc. Need more info that what you have in your original post.
Air, fuel, spark. One of those is screwed up. Put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail. Ensure no towel is stuck in the intake. Find a way to check for spark. Could be as simple as a failed Crankshaft or Camshaft Position Sensor. Could be a bad fuel pump relay. It is not the auxiliary battery; the car will run fine without it (right up until the main bus fails and you have minimal brakes in a 4200 pound car barreling down the highway).
Look elsewhere. Main battery, starter, relay in front SAM, EIS, etc. Need more info that what you have in your original post.
Air, fuel, spark. One of those is screwed up. Put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail. Ensure no towel is stuck in the intake. Find a way to check for spark. Could be as simple as a failed Crankshaft or Camshaft Position Sensor. Could be a bad fuel pump relay. It is not the auxiliary battery; the car will run fine without it (right up until the main bus fails and you have minimal brakes in a 4200 pound car barreling down the highway).
I will get back on this as soon as the weather permits and update you.
#6
I just wanted to update my post to let everyone know that I am still troubleshooting between bad weather.
I have found oil in two (2) camshaft connectors that could be considered enough to cause a short of the sensors.
My symptoms have change though.
I now have a cranks but does not start symptom.
I have checked every fuse and relay that I could find.
My next move is two check fuel pressure.
I am presently waiting for a storm to move out.
Thanks in advance.
I have found oil in two (2) camshaft connectors that could be considered enough to cause a short of the sensors.
My symptoms have change though.
I now have a cranks but does not start symptom.
I have checked every fuse and relay that I could find.
My next move is two check fuel pressure.
I am presently waiting for a storm to move out.
Thanks in advance.
#7
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @55kMi
Crank-No-Start...
You did not say you came to "No start" from "no crank". Earlier you did mention "No COM" errors...
I'd focus on better understanding your scanner results than taping the pressured fuel rail.
Having checked all your fuses... then at some point read about "Drive Authorization"; "steering lock"; "Ignition Switch"... for logical faults.
✌️
I'd focus on better understanding your scanner results than taping the pressured fuel rail.
Having checked all your fuses... then at some point read about "Drive Authorization"; "steering lock"; "Ignition Switch"... for logical faults.
✌️
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 03-06-2022 at 06:00 PM.
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#8
You did not say you came to "No start" from "no crank". Earlier you did mention "No COM" errors...
I'd focus on better understanding your scanner results than taping the pressured fuel rail.
Having checked all your fuses... then at some point read about "Drive Authorization"; "steering lock"; "Ignition Switch"... for logical faults.
✌️
I'd focus on better understanding your scanner results than taping the pressured fuel rail.
Having checked all your fuses... then at some point read about "Drive Authorization"; "steering lock"; "Ignition Switch"... for logical faults.
✌️
I assumed this was normal for this scanner since I noticed this with the car running good.
Originally the car would start up and immediately shut down; hitting the starter a couple of times before shut down.
Now it cranks but does not start.
Thanks
#9
Please except my apologizes for not finishing the thread.
I spent most of the summer doing preventive maintenance and changing out the intake just to find out I still had a crank but will not start condition still going on.
I have since decided to let a dealer handle it since it is now time to move onto other things.
Thanks to all of you who replied and have a Happy Holiday.
I have since decided to let a dealer handle it since it is now time to move onto other things.
Thanks to all of you who replied and have a Happy Holiday.