Hi
Just went into my garage to start my car and it started - but then I noticed no tacho and then the whole dash went blank.
But I did see the CEL on. So I grabbed my scanner from inside and connected it. Came back with a U0155 error - Lost Communication with Instrument Panel Control (IPC) Module

Where to go from here? The problems are intermittent. The display inside the speedo works. Then it goes. Then the car won't start. Then it WILL start. Then all the idiot lights show. Then they don't!!

I'm thinking battery. If it were a fuse, nothing would work! But I suspect a battery because of the intermittent problems. Thoughts?

 

UPDATE: Just checked the main battery with a multimeter. Stationary: 12.1V With engine idling: 14.1V

My scanner can do special MB stuff so off to the garage I go to see what I can find...

 

Well, when I go to check the instrument cluster, I get no errors found. BUT when I check other modules with my scanner, I get errors with the Air Conditioning system, errors with the transmission talking to the CGW etc

So, I'm thinking a faulty Central Gateway module. Has anyone ever had similar problems and replaced/reprogrammed the Central Gateway module and solved such issues?

 

Are they all current? Usually when you first scan it, there are a bunch of old error codes. Then you clear them all and see what comes back. And yes the central gateway going bad is also common.

 

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have cleared them and they all seem to come back.

What I'm going to do though, is get a proper Mercedes Benz Star Diagnostic check. There is a local independent Mercedes mechanic with the Star Diagnostic system. I'm booked in for next Tuesday to let him diagnose my car. Cost? About half an hours work or AUD$50.

Sure beats the local Mercedes Benz dealer!! They wanted $255 per hour for diagnosis! And next available time would of been early next year!!! I will post back with the results.

 

That diagnostic fee sounds really good.

I bet this issue has everything to do with poor grounding connections causing unstable power supply to major modules...

 

Any moisture in the car? Humid carpet? Wiring under the footwelll both sides do not like water that much.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...-problems.html

@cetialpha5 said, clear ALL codes, run the car if possible and check again for first code, and see what pops.

 

Well, I had the car scanned with the STAR diagnosis and a number of codes came back, pretty much relating to bad communication with the CGW module. The mechanic there cleared all the codes to see what would pop up in the future.

So, yesterday I had an auto electrician near me check out the CGW module and fit a throttle controller. He reported that the CGW module was in excellent condition and no signs of corrosion or moisture.

Now on my way home I stopped at my fathers house for lunch. After that I got into my car and started it up, then the problems arose again. This time no dash electronics, no AC or fan, no power windows and no indicators. Car ran fine. I drove it home and left it in the garage.

Today - same issue. Should I get the car scanned again or does anyone have any ideas?

 

I would scan it again . If the communication errors are back, there is definitely something loose, or with high electrical resistance. @CaliBenzDriver suggested poor grounding, and I would suggest the same.

If I recall correctly, there is a CAN bus connection on the passenger side. Do not recall if under the glove compartment, or under the foot well. I would check for a bad connection, damage wired, or moisture in the area.

Here is a short video with a simple summary of how the CAN bus works, no specifics but a "bird eye view" of what it does.


It could also be an intermittent contact from the IC cluster. Corroded contacts, loose connection and hopefully NOT a bad cluster.

 

OBD scanning is the fastest way to collect valuable clues and still keep your hands clean. However the vagueness of codes has serious limitations.

Troubleshooting:
To help troubleshoot this pickle you want to match clues from...:

1. the driver's scenarios of the issue
2. the comprehensive list of OBD codes
3. the physical inspection of the vehicle

The outcome is a more focused translation of what the problem/solution may be. Luckily these cars are really well assembled. They disfunction as designed.

Reverse logic:
The absence of fault code matched with driving scenarios may provide clues about what the problem is not. That is not the best way to go but I understand limitations restrict options.

Practically:
Oxidized "Painted GND" help glitch modules into crazy disfunctioning. Battery reboot temporarily helps reset the soft-crash condition.

Now or later:
Cleaning ALL GND helps eliminate this class of unecessary chaos. In the absence of fix, power surging issues can progress into degrading positive feed side from SAM's. These cars react extremely well to GND therapy.

Better electricals help lower CAN retransmit traffic thereby directly increasing the whole chassis performance.

 

FIXED IT!

You wouldn't believe what was the problem.

Weak/flat battery in the key fob. I kid you not.
About 3 months ago I bought a third party key fob for my E280 from a local key cutter for AUD$300. Yes it works. But this morning I could not even start the car. Still the same problem - no dash, no AC, no power windows etc.
So, on a hunch I decided to try my original MB key fob - started first thing. "You've got to be kidding me" I thought. Nope, that was the issue.
The third party key fob with a weak battery was sending weak signals to the ECU and making all those "problems" appear. You live, you learn!!!

 

we all like miracles, now you are blessed!

 

That means, the statement of ALL batteries must be charged/ good condition must include: main, aux and keyfob's when dealing with starting issues.

 

Years ago I drove my Grand Cherokee to our shop after work and did some maintenance to it. After I was done and leaving to home, it wouldn't start. Pressed key fob and door locks went down, another press and they came up, but no start. Well, Chrysler style immobolizer, starts and dies. Wondered what happened. Then I figured maybe the batteries are weak and since I had spares in the glove box, I changed them but no avail. Then I googled possible way to disable the immo, but it's built deep to the ecu that there were no easy way to do it (I can disable it now, but you loose the central lock). Started to be late, and just for a long shot I went to a near by parts store and bought another set of batteries, and it started!! Apparently door locks aren't so picky, but immo needs much stronger signal.
I thought it would be a great idea to have spare batteries with the car, but it seems that they loose their juice over a couple of years.

 

I change my keyless go batteries all the time, sometimes it seems like it's every 4-8 months depending on how much use it gets. Even the spare ones gets changed too as they seem to die on their own even if you don't use them. That's why I always get a set of 10 or 20 as I use 6 a time for 4 key fobs. Don't want more as the longer they sit, the more the voltage drops. You could also always just put the key in the ignition and it doesn't matter if the key fob battery is dead, the rfid chip in the keyfob doesn't need any battery power when putting it into the ignition.