I'm looking for a good Android headunit working together with Harmon Kardon sound system, and a look like the standard headunit.

Any suggestions ?

 

See Teyes CC3

 

Check out joying and xtrons

 

Do you have the Teyes CC3? I’m trying to find out if the factory cd player and the comand knob work with the Teyes. Not a lot of info available about them and they manufacturer doesn’t answer emails. Of course that should be enough for me not to buy from them. Another company answered emails on a Sunday, but I really like the CC3.

 

Yes, I do. Yes they are working together or can be replaced. Alongside with CC3 or any other HU they r sending CAN Bus adapter
Absolutely the same with communication, be careful abt it with manufacturer... they r not replying at all...

Anyway, my problem as follow, when switching revers gear, reversing lights don't work, how to solve it still don't know yet... but on my opinion the problem with CAN Bus adapter

 

Joying is the go to! Get one with a volume knob or you will hate life. . .

 

I like the Joying units, but they don’t list anything for Mercedes.

 

You'll have to get a dash kit and install a universal floating screen unit. Anything between 10 and 11 inches fits without blocking any buttons or displays. Problem with joying for me (I have one) is it's **** at android-y things. It's good at radio things, but their implementation of android is simply awful. If you just want a head unit to do head unit things then you're probably ok, but I'd bet the T'eyes CC3 will do the same, but with a slightly better android experience.

 

Check it out. . A bit expensive but works great and Joying has great customer service. Their quality speaks for the value VS generic android head units that may and will fail.
Joying 9" Android Car Radio Upgrade For 1999-2007 Mercedes-Benz E-Class/W211/CLS/C219 (joyingauto.com)

You will need a Fiber Optic Decoder to work with Harmon Kardon which sets you back another $100.

 

Sorry to revive, but are you able to get your steering wheel controls to work with it? I cannot find installation information either, can you point me in that direction?

 

Hi all, I"m going to jump in this older thread. I'm part way through installing a 9" headunit (generic equivalent to Joying) and have most things kinda figured out, but for the supposedly simple example of power.
The stock unit (Navigation and 6CD in dash changer) Harman Kardon with fiberoptics is the unit in question. (2005 E320cdi) The factory fiberoptic cable along with a small square female power cable siamese together and plug into the the back of the head/nav unit.

Is everyone just cutting up this factory cable, or is there a proper plug-in power cable / adapter that I'm just not finding? I even found the same female connector readily available from Digikey and Mouser, but I need the corresponding male-pin assy.
Anyone figured this out?

It seems like this would be more documented than I've found, but maybe everyone else is not overthinking it and just cutting into the wiring right away.

Or are there other readily accessible constant and switched 12v there under the dash and I can just grab them up and ignore the factory connector?
It's clear this unit is a lot more plug-and-play for those without the HK/fiber system.

Any pointers very welcome.

Thanks

 

Hi rog, guys,

Some vendors' wiring kits (I had an Xtrons originally) has the radio side small connector in a harness to plug into the small one for those with the MOST plug.

You only need the +12v & ground, the acc line and others should come from your CAN interpreter box.

You don't need the Android Headunit CAN boxes - you can get away with something like the Connects2 from Aerpro/Stinger/whatever they want to call themselves these days BUT getting a good Android Headunit 'friendly' CAN interpreter means that it will talk to your headunit via a serial link making wiring a bit simpler.
In my car I had to hunt for a CAN bus connection to tap off of.

Just bite the bullet and do a full new system with new speakers and amps to suit your taste & budget. My experience with the line-to-MOST boxes were that they always work well unless they don't. The don't is usually when you've jumped into the car to get somewhere quickly and then get a phonecall - no audio...... They then need a full power down recycle to work again - not feasible in morning traffic on the highway.

Pull 4 stereo pairs of line level to the boot as well as 4 or so dc lines (for amp switching, reverse cam power, etc) so you don't have to pull it all apart again if you decide to add a sub/camera/xyz.
I ripped out the navi unit & amp completely and bought and wired a new connector so I can plug into the speaker harness. Amp & DSP in the space where navi unit was with a sub amp mounted to back of rear seats.

I have a new-model Joying to go in but the first unit I got wouldn't go to sleep on the bench (so would run your battery down quickly if installed in car). Second one they sent looks to be OK. Will drop it in when I get around to doing all the speakers and new DSP etc. Fisrt need to design and print a decent speaker mount when I get around to scanning the door - currently just have some basic rings in there.. Original install was only temporary as I wasn't thinking the car would stay long (5 years ago.....)

Be carefull as the plastics would all be brittle by now.

The Stinger dash kit is much nicer than the Aerpro one.

 

Thanks for that input. I'm sticking with the fiber optic and no wire running for now, but know I may change that later. I have a couple issues to resolve before the 30 day return window on this unit closes. I'll probably repost on longer/more active thread, but in short, right now, I have the fiberoptic connected correctly (I think) as I'm now getting audio to all speakers. I understand the signal for front gets routed to both front and rear this way, and that is mostly working, but, the front sounds perfect, while the rear sounds distorted, and even with volume reduced to zero, there is some random low level noise coming from the back speakers that wasn't there with the factory head unit. I don't understand how the rear could be different than the front, but then again, I don't understand how the stock unit optical worked to transmit all 4 (5) channels to the amp and then to each speaker.

Any idea what could cause background noise and distortion on the rear?
Note : Happens with car off, so not alternator noise related. Plus, random, though fairly constant


Also, still dont' have canbus working, and the vendor can't seem to help (canbus config shows tons of MBs, but strangely, not E-class)

 

Hello there - I also have an E320 (mine is a 2007) and got an android unit. Audio works but cant find the E class in the canbus settings. Wondering if you were able to find a solution for this problem. Please help if you can. Thanks!

 

Just started a new thread but just saw this. I'm having an issue where I hear a loud thump when the car starts and turns off. Any ideas? Using a decoder box.

 

For canbus. The b200 vito code seems to be the one that works for eclass