Sbc accumulator or sbc motor bad?
#1
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Sbc accumulator or sbc motor bad?
Got the brake warning and failure on a 2003 e55 73,000 miles and am thinking it’s the accumulator that has gone south. The current bar accumulator pressure is 140 bar, the unit does run, but not when opening the door and only after pushing the pedal softly 2 times.
The sbc motor only runs for about 2 seconds or so. I bought a new accumulator and was going to depressurization it, replace it, and bleed the brakes. What are the symptoms of a bad accumulator? Seems like I remember the SBC motor staying on a bit longer than it does now, and not coming on after 2 slight pushes of the brake.
My car is a rebuilt salvage, so the US extended warranty doesn’t apply, and yea I do have a diagnostic tool to deactivate and activate the SBC. I unfortunately cleared the codes (which it had a few) and didn’t write them down. The codes haven’t returned but I haven’t driven the car on the road as having little warning and no brakes isn’t really something I want to go through again.
The sbc motor only runs for about 2 seconds or so. I bought a new accumulator and was going to depressurization it, replace it, and bleed the brakes. What are the symptoms of a bad accumulator? Seems like I remember the SBC motor staying on a bit longer than it does now, and not coming on after 2 slight pushes of the brake.
My car is a rebuilt salvage, so the US extended warranty doesn’t apply, and yea I do have a diagnostic tool to deactivate and activate the SBC. I unfortunately cleared the codes (which it had a few) and didn’t write them down. The codes haven’t returned but I haven’t driven the car on the road as having little warning and no brakes isn’t really something I want to go through again.
#2
Diag tool
Got the brake warning and failure on a 2003 e55 73,000 miles and am thinking it’s the accumulator that has gone south. The current bar accumulator pressure is 140 bar, the unit does run, but not when opening the door and only after pushing the pedal softly 2 times.
The sbc motor only runs for about 2 seconds or so. I bought a new accumulator and was going to depressurization it, replace it, and bleed the brakes. What are the symptoms of a bad accumulator? Seems like I remember the SBC motor staying on a bit longer than it does now, and not coming on after 2 slight pushes of the brake.
My car is a rebuilt salvage, so the US extended warranty doesn’t apply, and yea I do have a diagnostic tool to deactivate and activate the SBC. I unfortunately cleared the codes (which it had a few) and didn’t write them down. The codes haven’t returned but I haven’t driven the car on the road as having little warning and no brakes isn’t really something I want to go through again.
The sbc motor only runs for about 2 seconds or so. I bought a new accumulator and was going to depressurization it, replace it, and bleed the brakes. What are the symptoms of a bad accumulator? Seems like I remember the SBC motor staying on a bit longer than it does now, and not coming on after 2 slight pushes of the brake.
My car is a rebuilt salvage, so the US extended warranty doesn’t apply, and yea I do have a diagnostic tool to deactivate and activate the SBC. I unfortunately cleared the codes (which it had a few) and didn’t write them down. The codes haven’t returned but I haven’t driven the car on the road as having little warning and no brakes isn’t really something I want to go through again.
#3
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Icarsoft mb2, I should say that I haven’t gone through the process, but have gone into the deactivation activation screen and it it has these options.
#5
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That really seems to possibly not allow the motor to activate, I can’t see how the accumulator is depressurized with that. I certainly wouldn’t trust my fingers with that method and would disconnect the SBC plug instead. Don’t put your fingers anywhere you wouldn’t put your schmeckle
Anyway, I don’t have any of those hi tech jackstands around my shop, so it’s a moot point for me.
Anyway, I don’t have any of those hi tech jackstands around my shop, so it’s a moot point for me.
#6
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Just to reply to this , I replaced the accumulator. The icarsoft does deactivate this and reactivate the SBC. I was able to leave the sbc in place and unscrew the accumulator and slightly bend 2 brake lines out of the way. I installed the new accumulator, drained the brake fluid in the reservoir, and pressure bled all brakes with DOT 5.1 and all is good .
This was easy. I did start noticing the brakes wouldn’t hold at a stop light without increasing pedal pressure, that seems to have gone away and brake pedal is good. Motor now comes on for longer than it used to. Before the swap it would come on for a very short time to re pressurize.
This was easy. I did start noticing the brakes wouldn’t hold at a stop light without increasing pedal pressure, that seems to have gone away and brake pedal is good. Motor now comes on for longer than it used to. Before the swap it would come on for a very short time to re pressurize.
#7
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My car is a rebuilt salvage, so the US extended warranty doesn’t apply,
Last edited by tyabnet; 02-07-2024 at 02:19 PM.
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#8
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I’m glad you got yours done, my dealer had no interest whatsoever in doing this and was a problem from the get go. Reading the wording it isn’t a safety recall, so maybe your dealer did it on good faith, I tried to get the fuel tank done as well, they ran the vin and said no go to that. If it isn’t a safety recall it’s not covered by my dealer. The sunroof is, but not the others,
#10
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Yes I could do that, but really not much interest in putting forth for a 21 year old car that more than likely won’t be covered. Plus the car would have to be towed to the dealership to be scanned and find out it may not be covered. And then towed back to me at my expense. I already spent 30 minutes wit the dealer, that’s enough time for me.