DrCarl

Greetings. I am working on an intermittent no-click, no-crank situation. I'll likely make a much longer, far more detailed post later. For now, here's a quickie for someone who knows.

Even though I have a preliminary trouble code of "P0605 N3/10 (ME-SFI [ME] Control Unit" from a neighbor's code reader which recommends that I "replace the Transmission Control Module (TCM)," and even though I slightly suspect the "recognition switch" attached to the gear shifter, as well as other potential issues...I understand that ONE $20 possibility to rule out is the starter relay.

I'd like to test the old part with a multimeter, yet knowing which pin is which matters. Then I could also ID the corresponding terminal/socket. I suppose a data sheet from NAPA for part number AR6622SB would be useful if it came with one, or could be found online, and if I could read and understand it.

At least there is a diagram on the new part, but I still don't know which pin is 30, 85, 86, or 87 which is necessary to follow online testing instructions.

Can someone tell me which is which? Photo attached.

Thanks in advance!

I'm driving, I mean decorating the street with my 2006 E-350 (W211).
I'm coming up on 40K miles. Inherited it a couple of years ago with 32K miles.
(I also do not know how to identify the more detailed particulars of the engine. At least I've figured out that it's a W211)

CaliBenzDriver

COIL : 85+86 = A + B

(Contact is on C+D)

May I suggest you familiarize yourself and check the "drive authorization" with a (LAUNCH Elite) scanner.

Tranny is included in authorizing ALL Starts... Don't get hung on starter relay coil.
Ignition modules are not particularly reliable in later years.

DrCarl

Thank you for the awesome suggestion. I've much to learn. Looks like an MB scanner is almost mandatory for an MB owner. I'm looking at the different models.
(It'd be nice if it could scan our Subaru Forester as well)
(Is 2006 considered a "later year"?)

Since the starter relay was only $18 or so, I switched it out and the car has been starting yesterday and today. Of course, it could be a coincidence.
(Backstory: While trying to figure out the issue, I removed the old starter relay and put it back in. Meanwhile, a neighbor used a scan device to see what we could learn. He asked if he could start it. I smirked and said "Go ahead" since I knew it wouldn't start. But, it did start. Made me wonder if pulling and replacing the old relay had anything to do with the miracle cure. Some say that has 'worked' for others. Regardless, I'm not confident things are AOK yet.)

I'll likely order that MB-specific scanner.
I'll try to decide if I should start a new thread with ALL the clues (right and left license plate lights and 3rd brake light out, fob [and cabin button, and trunk handle] no longer opens trunk, etc) and history.

THANKS!

CaliBenzDriver

Two thumbs up for happy handing: it seems relay is in this failure big time.

Now you have time to familiarize yourself with other favorites.

For all your butttons and controls that quit... it's usually assiciated with nearby painted GND posts. Clean them for free fix. The pain is figuring where... start with removing rear trunk side carpeting to expose said posts.


As far as scanners "LAUNCH cReader Elite Benz" is the top DIY lately - You maybe able to download Subaru coverage into it for peanuts.... not sure. Many compatible "scanners" coverage suck buckets.
✌️

DrCarl

My new "2024 LAUNCH X431 Elite for Mercedes-Benz MB Sprinter Maybach Full System OBD2 Scanner,Bidirectional Diagnostic Scan Tool,All Service Code Reader,ECU Coding,Key Programming,AutoVin,Lifetime Free Update" will arrive Monday. Thanks so much for the tip.

As for finding painted GND posts to clean, yes, I suppose the pain is figuring what to look for and where... I'll start with removing rear trunk side carpeting to expose said posts. It's already loose because I've been accessing the main battery for charging. This car has wires, connections, sensors, and computers everywhere!
I often get a "convenience functions disabled" if I don't drive the car for 2 days or so. (After a few minutes, the battery charges up and all is good). I suspect some kind of slow power drain. I understand these rides need to be driven, still, it just seems that the batt is discharging down to about 11.2 V too quickly)

I'm pretty sure the code reader will read basic stuff on the Forester, and that modules for expanded and specific functionality are available for something like $35/year. It's too difficult to find their "mall" (store) with specifics, so I'll wait and use the device to locate those options.

With luck, the starter relay was the culprit. I'm still holding my breath a bit. It'll be fun to see what else is going on (and to see how much I can understand - lol)

Again, thanks!

CaliBenzDriver

the drain you experience is likely caused by a collection of your chassis modules (doors + trunk) not delaying sleep.

> Death by 1000's cuts:
Front SAM regularly enumerates the status from all CAN-B Modules... half of them stutter and cause accelerated battery drain.

Use a CTEK charger to keep you battery healthy.

DrCarl

Where do I find drive authorization?
I'm not sure what this means

DrCarl

Cool scanner. TYVM. Now I'm learning how to use it. I wonder if there is some mode where I take the car for a drive and it tests everything?

DrCarl

Wow. Which one? Any idea?

CaliBenzDriver

This topic in itself is an advanced knowledge until someone discover an easy template showing all "PASS" value from each module.

A clear "Drive authorization" I believe is granted by EZS when it gets all yes from participating modules:B(ECU, ISM, TCU CMD,..).

Poke around as needed.

CaliBenzDriver

I have the CTEK mUS4.3 - There are newer stronger models available nowadays also different market need different voltage.

Beware... this is NOT a dual "110/220V" voltage unit but one specific input voltage only!! Double check before purchase.

Other brands came up with similar idea of software controlled charger. The battery "tender" function is not new either for lawn mowers...

CTEK doesn't make chargers cheaper, they make it better with software to manage the different charge rates:
-- constant current with increasing voltage
-- then constant voltage with decreasing current,
-- then tendering on/off/on automatic watch
Perfectly well designed charger gone smart.
👏

Here is the particular model I use:

trusted technology

> CAUTION: "AGM MODE":
Most of us lazy do not disconnect battery during charge, right?

AGM Mode puts out more than 15V to help balance battery cells. Some car electronic capacitors are rated at 16V only -

Be sure to read the manual and disconnect when using AGM else use the standard mode 14.4V, connected no problem!