battery issue comes after cold
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
battery issue comes after cold
My W211 （2006 e280 cdi）has recently had battery issues as the temperature dropped to 0, which I know is a topic that is often discussed.
When the temperature is normal, a message will appear that the “Convenience Functions Temporarily Unavailable " is temporarily disabled whenever started, and it will disappear after a few minutes of driving.
However, today, the temperature drops to 0 or even below. About 1 minute after starting in the morning, a red alarm "battery visit workshop" will appear on the screen, and the "convenience function" cannot be used as well。
My solution was to turn it on for a few minutes, then turn off the engine and restart it, so that the "convenience function" would soon disappear and I could use the seat heating function.
After reading a lot of discussions about this in the forum, I called the UB parameter, when the key is at 1, it is about 12v, and it is maintained at 13.8-14.1/14.2 after starting. The strange thing is that when my foot on the gas, the voltage will drop to around 13.6, 13.4, while foot off it, and the voltage will go back to 14.1-14.2, which makes me wonder, I changed the small battery in the engine compartment last year, do I also have to change the main battery and voltage alternator?
thanks~
When the temperature is normal, a message will appear that the “Convenience Functions Temporarily Unavailable " is temporarily disabled whenever started, and it will disappear after a few minutes of driving.
However, today, the temperature drops to 0 or even below. About 1 minute after starting in the morning, a red alarm "battery visit workshop" will appear on the screen, and the "convenience function" cannot be used as well。
My solution was to turn it on for a few minutes, then turn off the engine and restart it, so that the "convenience function" would soon disappear and I could use the seat heating function.
After reading a lot of discussions about this in the forum, I called the UB parameter, when the key is at 1, it is about 12v, and it is maintained at 13.8-14.1/14.2 after starting. The strange thing is that when my foot on the gas, the voltage will drop to around 13.6, 13.4, while foot off it, and the voltage will go back to 14.1-14.2, which makes me wonder, I changed the small battery in the engine compartment last year, do I also have to change the main battery and voltage alternator?
thanks~
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 12,191
Likes: 6,889
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
car power supply
My W211 （2006 e280 cdi）has recently had battery issues as the temperature dropped to 0, which I know is a topic that is often discussed.
When the temperature is normal, a message will appear that the “Convenience Functions Temporarily Unavailable " is temporarily disabled whenever started, and it will disappear after a few minutes of driving.
However, today, the temperature drops to 0 or even below. About 1 minute after starting in the morning, a red alarm "battery visit workshop" will appear on the screen, and the "convenience function" cannot be used as well。
My solution was to turn it on for a few minutes, then turn off the engine and restart it, so that the "convenience function" would soon disappear and I could use the seat heating function.
After reading a lot of discussions about this in the forum, I called the UB parameter, when the key is at 1, it is about 12v, and it is maintained at 13.8-14.1/14.2 after starting. The strange thing is that when my foot on the gas, the voltage will drop to around 13.6, 13.4, while foot off it, and the voltage will go back to 14.1-14.2, which makes me wonder, I changed the small battery in the engine compartment last year, do I also have to change the main battery and voltage alternator?
thanks~
When the temperature is normal, a message will appear that the “Convenience Functions Temporarily Unavailable " is temporarily disabled whenever started, and it will disappear after a few minutes of driving.
However, today, the temperature drops to 0 or even below. About 1 minute after starting in the morning, a red alarm "battery visit workshop" will appear on the screen, and the "convenience function" cannot be used as well。
My solution was to turn it on for a few minutes, then turn off the engine and restart it, so that the "convenience function" would soon disappear and I could use the seat heating function.
After reading a lot of discussions about this in the forum, I called the UB parameter, when the key is at 1, it is about 12v, and it is maintained at 13.8-14.1/14.2 after starting. The strange thing is that when my foot on the gas, the voltage will drop to around 13.6, 13.4, while foot off it, and the voltage will go back to 14.1-14.2, which makes me wonder, I changed the small battery in the engine compartment last year, do I also have to change the main battery and voltage alternator?
thanks~
Nothing wrong with your alternator, voltage above 13V indicate it's both powering the car AND charging the main battery.
It may well be the fuse to the AUX was blown when it was bad and thus has never been charged since installed.
Let's check this quickly!
- start the engine
- use your voltmeter on DC settings
- check both of your battery voltage...
We expect main to be fine. Let's see that AUX is above 13v and not below 12v.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Dec 19, 2024 at 02:37 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,975
Likes: 1,321
From: Republic of Texas
'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Replace your main battery; it's at the end of its service life in your car.
The main battery I use is rated at 900 CCA but will test a bit over 1000 CCA or so when new. The Yuasa auxiliary battery I use is rated at 200 CCA but can test around 250 CCA when new. The CCA will drop over time as the battery ages. FWIW, I replace my main battery when the CCA drops below 600 CCA during testing; this is about a 3-year maintenance item for me. Beats being stuck at a roadside rest area midway between San Antonio and El Paso Texas with a dead battery and the nearest available is 120 miles away.
The electrical modules on a W211 are a power hog; yesterday while performing maintenance on my car I noted the amperage draw with the key in position 2 (engine not running) is approximately 15 amps. When the voltage drops to around 12 volts the communication system begins failing. The convenience features are disengaged to conserve power on a failing main bus.
Auxiliary battery is only used as a backup and is switched into the system when the main bus voltage drops below a pre-determined point. Main intent for use is to provide emergency power for the SBC brake system. When the car is started, the K57/2 relay connects the auxiliary battery to the charging system for approximately 15 minutes then disconnects. If main bus voltage drops, the relay reengages.
See attached for info on the system.
The main battery I use is rated at 900 CCA but will test a bit over 1000 CCA or so when new. The Yuasa auxiliary battery I use is rated at 200 CCA but can test around 250 CCA when new. The CCA will drop over time as the battery ages. FWIW, I replace my main battery when the CCA drops below 600 CCA during testing; this is about a 3-year maintenance item for me. Beats being stuck at a roadside rest area midway between San Antonio and El Paso Texas with a dead battery and the nearest available is 120 miles away.
The electrical modules on a W211 are a power hog; yesterday while performing maintenance on my car I noted the amperage draw with the key in position 2 (engine not running) is approximately 15 amps. When the voltage drops to around 12 volts the communication system begins failing. The convenience features are disengaged to conserve power on a failing main bus.
Auxiliary battery is only used as a backup and is switched into the system when the main bus voltage drops below a pre-determined point. Main intent for use is to provide emergency power for the SBC brake system. When the car is started, the K57/2 relay connects the auxiliary battery to the charging system for approximately 15 minutes then disconnects. If main bus voltage drops, the relay reengages.
See attached for info on the system.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 889
From: In the Shadow of the Tetons
2013 ML350 Bluetec
If your main battery voltage drops below a set threshold (10??) when you're starting your car, the car knows this and gets pissed off. Your battery is far more likely to do this when it is 1) old and B) cold. A voltmeter set to record min/max voltages during your next cold start will confirm/deny this.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
These voltages are dynamic and look fine.
Nothing wrong with your alternator, voltage above 13V indicate it's both powering the car AND charging the main battery.
It may well be the fuse to the AUX was blown when it was bad and thus has never been charged since installed.
Let's check this quickly!
We expect main to be fine. Let's see that AUX is above 13v and not below 12v.
Nothing wrong with your alternator, voltage above 13V indicate it's both powering the car AND charging the main battery.
It may well be the fuse to the AUX was blown when it was bad and thus has never been charged since installed.
Let's check this quickly!
- start the engine
- use your voltmeter on DC settings
- check both of your battery voltage...
We expect main to be fine. Let's see that AUX is above 13v and not below 12v.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
These voltages are dynamic and look fine.
Nothing wrong with your alternator, voltage above 13V indicate it's both powering the car AND charging the main battery.
It may well be the fuse to the AUX was blown when it was bad and thus has never been charged since installed.
Let's check this quickly!
We expect main to be fine. Let's see that AUX is above 13v and not below 12v.
Nothing wrong with your alternator, voltage above 13V indicate it's both powering the car AND charging the main battery.
It may well be the fuse to the AUX was blown when it was bad and thus has never been charged since installed.
Let's check this quickly!
- start the engine
- use your voltmeter on DC settings
- check both of your battery voltage...
We expect main to be fine. Let's see that AUX is above 13v and not below 12v.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
Replace your main battery; it's at the end of its service life in your car.
The main battery I use is rated at 900 CCA but will test a bit over 1000 CCA or so when new. The Yuasa auxiliary battery I use is rated at 200 CCA but can test around 250 CCA when new. The CCA will drop over time as the battery ages. FWIW, I replace my main battery when the CCA drops below 600 CCA during testing; this is about a 3-year maintenance item for me. Beats being stuck at a roadside rest area midway between San Antonio and El Paso Texas with a dead battery and the nearest available is 120 miles away.
The electrical modules on a W211 are a power hog; yesterday while performing maintenance on my car I noted the amperage draw with the key in position 2 (engine not running) is approximately 15 amps. When the voltage drops to around 12 volts the communication system begins failing. The convenience features are disengaged to conserve power on a failing main bus.
Auxiliary battery is only used as a backup and is switched into the system when the main bus voltage drops below a pre-determined point. Main intent for use is to provide emergency power for the SBC brake system. When the car is started, the K57/2 relay connects the auxiliary battery to the charging system for approximately 15 minutes then disconnects. If main bus voltage drops, the relay reengages.
See attached for info on the system.
The main battery I use is rated at 900 CCA but will test a bit over 1000 CCA or so when new. The Yuasa auxiliary battery I use is rated at 200 CCA but can test around 250 CCA when new. The CCA will drop over time as the battery ages. FWIW, I replace my main battery when the CCA drops below 600 CCA during testing; this is about a 3-year maintenance item for me. Beats being stuck at a roadside rest area midway between San Antonio and El Paso Texas with a dead battery and the nearest available is 120 miles away.
The electrical modules on a W211 are a power hog; yesterday while performing maintenance on my car I noted the amperage draw with the key in position 2 (engine not running) is approximately 15 amps. When the voltage drops to around 12 volts the communication system begins failing. The convenience features are disengaged to conserve power on a failing main bus.
Auxiliary battery is only used as a backup and is switched into the system when the main bus voltage drops below a pre-determined point. Main intent for use is to provide emergency power for the SBC brake system. When the car is started, the K57/2 relay connects the auxiliary battery to the charging system for approximately 15 minutes then disconnects. If main bus voltage drops, the relay reengages.
See attached for info on the system.
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Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
If your main battery voltage drops below a set threshold (10??) when you're starting your car, the car knows this and gets pissed off. Your battery is far more likely to do this when it is 1) old and B) cold. A voltmeter set to record min/max voltages during your next cold start will confirm/deny this.
11v when cold stated， yep， both cold and old hahaha
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Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 12,191
Likes: 6,889
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
AUX fuse...
It fails when AUX is forced to use higher current.
AUX puts out power anytime MAIN voltage is below AUX voltage.... 11V cranks included.
