W211 DIY Brake Job

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Feb 8, 2014 | 01:43 AM
  #251  
^ once you disconnect the SBC, youre good to go. I havent done any major DIY til i replaced the rotors and pads on mine (i think it can be called a major DIY) but id give it a 3 out of 10. I was hesitant too but when i started, i cant believe it was that easy. So long as you have the right tools, you can do it with your eyes closed. But i wouldnt recommend it. 😀
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Feb 8, 2014 | 01:56 AM
  #252  
Quote: ^ once you disconnect the SBC, youre good to go. I havent done any major DIY til i replaced the rotors and pads on mine (i think it can be called a major DIY) but id give it a 3 out of 10. I was hesitant too but when i started, i cant believe it was that easy. So long as you have the right tools, you can do it with your eyes closed. But i wouldnt recommend it. 😀
so one you take off the caliper I assume in 2 parts you wont have brake fluid all over the place?

and the rears are all bolts ..? and the rotor is held on with a set screw in the front..?

The caliper thing makes me nervous, I have all the tools just dont want to get error lights or have my wife kill me !!! haha

does anyone have the rest of the pictures..?

thanks,

Tony
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Feb 8, 2014 | 10:44 AM
  #253  
Quote: so one you take off the caliper I assume in 2 parts you wont have brake fluid all over the place?

and the rears are all bolts ..? and the rotor is held on with a set screw in the front..?

The caliper thing makes me nervous, I have all the tools just dont want to get error lights or have my wife kill me !!! haha

does anyone have the rest of the pictures..?

thanks,

Tony
Floating calipers refers to the design, the fluid does not come out when you take them off the disk assembly. Be sure to support the calipers and not let them hang by the fluid hose - I use a bent coat hangar to hold them up out of the way.

BTW, Bosch "QuietCast" pads have remained squeak free after several months, are slightly less dusty than the stock pads.
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Feb 8, 2014 | 11:52 AM
  #254  
Ok thanks peter that helps !! So I understand let me just put out what I will be doing

1 disconnect the sbc via the connector under the hood, take off the brake top on the master

2 no need to close the hood or lock the car just don't open the door or push the brake pedal till I'm done.

3. From here just your normal brake job except the passenger side sensor for the rears and the use it torx bolts?

4. So I think 4 bolts and I can have the caliper off

5 the set screw on the front will make it so I can remove the caliper.

I think I got it. I'm only replacing the pads as the rotors are fine.

The final step is reconnecting the sbc closing the brake fluid resivior pushing in the brake pedal starting the car remove foot and all is good right ...?

Tony
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Feb 8, 2014 | 03:49 PM
  #255  
Man I'm glad they did away with the sbc brakes. Seems like an awful lot of hoops to jump through for just a DIY brake job.
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Feb 8, 2014 | 05:38 PM
  #256  
it is a lot of hoops !!

I think the only thing i need assistance with is the right way to finish the job. Once the new pads and rotors are on the rear tires are on i go back to the engine compartment where the hood is still up and I reconnect the SBC. After I connect the SBC close the hood open the door.... do I...

1. Step on the brake and start the car with the brake pressed to the floor..

or

2. pump the brakes before starting, start the car after pumping the brakes 3 times..

or

3. start the car as normal after car is running pump the brakes or dont pump the brakes.

SO any advise will be really helpful as far as finishing the job and doing things the right way and not getting any errors or red lights.

Thank you

Tony
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Feb 9, 2014 | 01:45 PM
  #257  
Quote: it is a lot of hoops !!

I think the only thing i need assistance with is the right way to finish the job. Once the new pads and rotors are on the rear tires are on i go back to the engine compartment where the hood is still up and I reconnect the SBC. After I connect the SBC close the hood open the door.... do I...

1. Step on the brake and start the car with the brake pressed to the floor..

or

2. pump the brakes before starting, start the car after pumping the brakes 3 times..

or

3. start the car as normal after car is running pump the brakes or dont pump the brakes.

SO any advise will be really helpful as far as finishing the job and doing things the right way and not getting any errors or red lights.

Thank you

Tony
When I reconnected the SBC plug and then put either opened the door or put the key in the ignition (I forget), you could hear the pump repressurizing the system. I do not recall doing anything special after that, and everything worked A-OK.
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Feb 9, 2014 | 04:13 PM
  #258  
once you're done replacing everything, reconnect the SBC, pump the brake pedal a few times, release the brake pedal, start you car then pump the brake pedal again. you'll hear the hydraulics working and you're good to go.
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Feb 9, 2014 | 05:48 PM
  #259  
sweet thanks I will be replacing the pads next weekend !!! I'll let you know how it goes !!

Tony
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Feb 9, 2014 | 06:30 PM
  #260  
Quote: sweet thanks I will be replacing the pads next weekend !!! I'll let you know how it goes !!

Tony
goodluck! im sure youll be fine.
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Feb 9, 2014 | 07:56 PM
  #261  
IF you hold the pedal when you energize the system it will seat the pads and possibly avoid a brake warning light. Pumping the electric pedal will have no effect.
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Feb 9, 2014 | 09:31 PM
  #262  
^ listen to him...vettdvr is one of the guys who helped me with all the info i needed before I went ahead with the DIY.
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Feb 9, 2014 | 11:40 PM
  #263  
Quote: sweet thanks I will be replacing the pads next weekend !!! I'll let you know how it goes !!

Tony
How will you let us know how it goes if your calipers take your fingers off?






Lol. J/K
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Feb 11, 2014 | 03:35 PM
  #264  
Quote: How will you let us know how it goes if your calipers take your fingers off?






Lol. J/K
Funny LOL, well I may not be doing th brake job cant get the dam lugnuts off !! My impact gun goes up to 230lb of torque and I cant budge the rear lugnuts !! They were just taken off last week for service from my mechanic now I cant budge the darn things !! Bummer !

Tony
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Feb 11, 2014 | 03:52 PM
  #265  
I was shown how to remove them with the tire tool. The mechanic put the tire tool on then jumped and pushed with all his weight on it with one foot. I guess that would be in the service manual.
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Feb 11, 2014 | 05:18 PM
  #266  
Quote: Funny LOL, well I may not be doing th brake job cant get the dam lugnuts off !! My impact gun goes up to 230lb of torque and I cant budge the rear lugnuts !! They were just taken off last week for service from my mechanic now I cant budge the darn things !! Bummer !

Tony
Let me guess, that wheel was already jacked off the ground?
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Feb 11, 2014 | 05:23 PM
  #267  
Nope, not my first go around LOL I think my impact gun is crap honestly. Time to put the tire tool in like vettdvr said and jump !!!

Tony
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Feb 11, 2014 | 05:31 PM
  #268  
+1 on the tire wrench and standing/jumping on it. do it gently but. dont let a stubborn lugnut get in the way of a good DIY.
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Feb 11, 2014 | 05:43 PM
  #269  
Quote: Nope, not my first go around LOL I think my impact gun is crap honestly. Time to put the tire tool in like vettdvr said and jump !!!

Tony


Get a proper breaker bar. (and good 6 point socket)
Or get a cross wrench and then you can put the far end on a jack stand so you are not forcing the wrench off the bolt head.


Quote: +1 on the tire wrench and standing/jumping on it. do it gently but. dont let a stubborn lugnut get in the way of a good DIY.

+2
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Feb 11, 2014 | 05:59 PM
  #270  
I got em loose !! Put on the tire tool and applied my weight gently no problem !!! Thanks guys !! Looks good just going to put on the new pads this weekend !!!

Tony
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Feb 11, 2014 | 07:54 PM
  #271  
Quote: IF you hold the pedal when you energize the system it will seat the pads and possibly avoid a brake warning light. Pumping the electric pedal will have no effect.
If I do get an error what steps should I take to clear them ? I do own a obdII reader than can clear the error code anything more than that I don't know.

Thanks,
Tony
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Feb 12, 2014 | 01:50 AM
  #272  
Obd readers only clear cl (check engine) light. Not brake.
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Feb 12, 2014 | 02:42 AM
  #273  
Quote: Obd readers only clear cl (check engine) light. Not brake.
Ok what would be your advice if I get a brake error light ?

Tony
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Feb 12, 2014 | 06:27 AM
  #274  
IF you get the brake light check the sensor plugs.

Just disconnect the SBC leave the key out of range.

When compressing the caliper piston back in crack open the bleed screw so the old fluid will not be forced back into the brake system and don't let air get in. Just crack open compress and with pressure still on the piston close the bleeder.

After completion top off with MB approved SBC fluid.
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Feb 12, 2014 | 12:08 PM
  #275  
Ok so I understand this, once I finish the job and the car is back on the ground I will plug in the sbc connector under the hood. Than with the keys in my hand I will open the door press the brake pedal and insert the key I will wait for the pressure to build and the pump to stop before starting. Once the pump stops start and hope for no error lights.

Tony
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