W211 DIY Brake Job

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Sep 19, 2011 | 09:43 AM
  #201  
Quote: I have never changed brakes in my life but i was able to manage and change all the pads.

One Questions.

The brakes are a little spongy, i think i have to bleed them. Any suggestions on what is the best way to go about and do this?
Until new pads seat in they will feel a little soft,(assuming you don't have air in the system) They will seat quickly and feel normal. Probably 100 miles or less.
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Sep 20, 2011 | 05:51 AM
  #202  
Quote: Until new pads seat in they will feel a little soft,(assuming you don't have air in the system) They will seat quickly and feel normal. Probably 100 miles or less.
Thanks, I read through the thread again and looks like i might just follow what some of the guys said on bleeding the brakes.
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Sep 27, 2011 | 12:13 PM
  #203  
brakejob
Hi people!
One question: Do i have to jack up the whole car or can i just jack up one and one wheel??
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Sep 27, 2011 | 01:05 PM
  #204  
Quote: Hi people!
One question: Do i have to jack up the whole car or can i just jack up one and one wheel??
One wheel at a time is fine. (and safer IMO)
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Oct 15, 2011 | 12:10 PM
  #205  
Sensors
Always change your brake pad sensors when you change your pads, alot of the time you will get the red brake screen when you have a faulty sensor, like they say do it right the first time.
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Oct 19, 2011 | 08:24 PM
  #206  
Just wanted to let everyone know that after replacing my front pads and rotors last month with mb parts, I don't have a brake dust problem! MB must've changed the pads... Stops the same IMO. Anyone else experience the same?
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Dec 1, 2011 | 10:40 PM
  #207  
Does anybody know the torque values for the caliper pin bolts (7mm Hex)? and carrier bolts (18mm)? on original Mercedes "ATE" front brakes for my 2001 SLK320. I purchased "ATE" discs and pads and do not want to guess the values, thanks Rick

Sorry,
I guess that my post should be on the SLK forum, but I think that my brakes are the same as used on the E-class.
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Dec 17, 2011 | 01:29 AM
  #208  
I just did all four brakes on my 2005 and I cannot get the Brake Wear message to go away. I followed the instructions on here for the SBC. I also reused a sensor from the front brakes that had plenty of miles left on them and the sensor appeared fine. The alert was due to the rears being completely worn down. Also when I start the car and pump the brakes should I here the SBC pump running occasionally, is this normal? it causes a slight vibration in the pedal as well.

Tomorrow I am going to try and change the one used sensor. Do I need to disconnect the SBC when I do this?
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Dec 17, 2011 | 09:12 AM
  #209  
Quote: I just did all four brakes on my 2005 and I cannot get the Brake Wear message to go away. I followed the instructions on here for the SBC. I also reused a sensor from the front brakes that had plenty of miles left on them and the sensor appeared fine. The alert was due to the rears being completely worn down. Also when I start the car and pump the brakes should I here the SBC pump running occasionally, is this normal? it causes a slight vibration in the pedal as well.

Tomorrow I am going to try and change the one used sensor. Do I need to disconnect the SBC when I do this?
The sbc running after pad change is normal due to pumping fluid into the calipers to seat the pads.

The + warning is a sensor that is not connected or damaged. Check the sensors and repair as necessary. You should not have to disconnect the sbc for only changing a sensor if you touch nothing else. Don't pull the caliper or pads to change the sensor. If you do you will need to disconnect / the SBC as per safe practices would dictate.
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Dec 17, 2011 | 10:40 PM
  #210  
I will try replacing all the sensors. I did the rear one which I recycled from the front brake today and no luck getting the message to extinguish. I will check the fronts again.

Thanks
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Dec 18, 2011 | 03:26 PM
  #211  
What happens if you didnt disconnect the SBC and started the car on accident?
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Dec 18, 2011 | 04:34 PM
  #212  
Quote: I will try replacing all the sensors. I did the rear one which I recycled from the front brake today and no luck getting the message to extinguish. I will check the fronts again.

Thanks
You haven't said what warning?

The + or service brakes? It is possible to get the service brakes if the pads aren't seated. If this is the case hold the brake pedal down and turn on the key. Wait 60 sec turn key off and repeat. Then verify IF the brakes work. The service brake warning should disappear if you have done everything correct. If it is the + then it is a sensor.
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Dec 18, 2011 | 09:46 PM
  #213  
It says, "Brake Wear, Visit Shop", not sure what you mean by the +.

Brakes work fine, I have driven it and no problems.
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Dec 19, 2011 | 08:57 AM
  #214  
Quote: It says, "Brake Wear, Visit Shop", not sure what you mean by the +.

Brakes work fine, I have driven it and no problems.
In the FSS window for next service if it shows the + it is the wear sensor. IF you do not have the + your problem is not the wear sensor.

Service brakes now is another problem. Did you check the master cylinder fluid level? If it is low you could also get this alarm. This can happen when you press the caliper piston back into the caliper and vent the fluid out. Then new fluid from the Master cylinder fills the caliper to seat the pads. You may be low on fluid expecially if the brakes are working normally.
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Dec 21, 2011 | 08:22 PM
  #215  
I checked all the sensors and can't find a problem. I still have the "Brake Wear, Visit Shop" message. What exactly is the FSS window?


W211 DIY Brake Job-brake-msg.jpg  

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Dec 21, 2011 | 10:44 PM
  #216  
This is my next step:

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-easy-diy.html
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Dec 22, 2011 | 07:20 AM
  #217  
Quote: I checked all the sensors and can't find a problem. I still have the "Brake Wear, Visit Shop" message. What exactly is the FSS window?

The FSS is the same as your pic showing brake wear.

Your FSS is newer than mine, mine doesn't show brake wear only a +.
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Dec 22, 2011 | 10:38 PM
  #218  
So I changed the stop light switch and the message is still there. Now I don't know what to do other than live with the message.
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Dec 23, 2011 | 09:02 AM
  #219  
Did you unplug each sensor do an ohms check? It should be very low ohms my guess 0 to 3 ohms. If high ohms you have a bad sensor. It could also be a bad connection at the plug. If your brake wear is the same warning as the + it's primary cause is a open circuit in the sensor.
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Jun 18, 2012 | 10:09 PM
  #220  
Some notes on my recent rear brake DIY 2004 E320 4matic sedan
The attached notes are a supplement to proper instructions and whatever else is posted in this thread. My notes are pretty verbose and I hope they are of some help to someone sometime.

I have a 2004 Model Year E320 4Matic sedan, with ventilated rear disks. The job took about 4 hours and I could definitely do it quicker next time. I chose genuine Mercedes parts, from my local dealer.


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Sep 18, 2012 | 11:48 PM
  #221  
Quote: In the FSS window for next service if it shows the + it is the wear sensor. IF you do not have the + your problem is not the wear sensor.

Service brakes now is another problem. Did you check the master cylinder fluid level? If it is low you could also get this alarm. This can happen when you press the caliper piston back into the caliper and vent the fluid out. Then new fluid from the Master cylinder fills the caliper to seat the pads. You may be low on fluid expecially if the brakes are working normally.

hey pls post the picture of master cylinder. i dont know what exactly is. thanks
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Sep 19, 2012 | 08:09 AM
  #222  
Quote: hey pls post the picture of master cylinder. i dont know what exactly is. thanks
I don't have a photo.

Since you are new there are many ways to learn. The first way is to do a search for what you are seaking. I did a search in google by typing Mercedes E350 master cylinder photo and the results gave photos of the master cylinder.

I recommend that you do the same, search on this site or google type sites for the information. Then after you have gathered information you will be able to better ask a question and get better information.
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Jan 28, 2013 | 11:44 AM
  #223  
Prevent Warped Rotors
For the benefit of some new to DIY, IMHO, one primary contributor to warped rotors is failure to properly torque the wheel bolts/nuts*. It can cause uneven pressure on the rotor, leading to warping when it gets hot from braking.

I do not trust any shop and always retorque the wheels myself. When I don't, even after a dealer visit, I seem to pay the price.

Cheap insurance!

* Torque in an every-other bolt pattern, first at ~70% of max and then a second time to full torque. I believe it is the evenness, and not the absolute value that is important to prevent warping.
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Jan 28, 2013 | 01:27 PM
  #224  
Quote: For the benefit of some new to DIY, IMHO, one primary contributor to warped rotors is failure to properly torque the wheel bolts/nuts*. It can cause uneven pressure on the rotor, leading to warping when it gets hot from braking.

I do not trust any shop and always retorque the wheels myself. When I don't, even after a dealer visit, I seem to pay the price.

Cheap insurance!

* Torque in an every-other bolt pattern, first at ~70% of max and then a second time to full torque. I believe it is the evenness, and not the absolute value that is important to prevent warping.
My OEM rotors ran 125000 miles before they wore to the min wear spec and needed changing. I however ALWAYS torqued the LUGS.
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Mar 12, 2013 | 11:23 AM
  #225  
Just had my service d done on my car and found out that front break needs to replaced. Can someone help me find the part number of break rotor, pad and left/right sensor so i can buy from online store such as RMeuropean.
Will stay with OEM GENUINE MERCEDES parts only for my 07 E350 with sport package without 4-matic.
Thanks in advance,
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