Flexible Service System PLUS (FSS PLUS)

• Evaluates engine temperature, oil level, vehicle speed, engine speed, brake wear, distance driven and the time elapsed since your last service. The interval between services depends on your driving habits.
• Next necessary service is indicated in the multifunction display in the instrument panel.
• Maintenance services will be indicated by showing a service type A (minor service) through H (major service).
• A “+” sign after the service type display indicates that the brake lining thickness must be checked.
• Calculates and determines the service items (1-14) that need to be performed.

When the service type appears in the multifunction display, you can use the vehicle’s control system to view a list of the service items that need to be performed at the called for service type.

Calling up the service data information
• Switch ignition on.
• Outside temperature display.
• Press button up or down on the steering wheel until the FSS PLUS indicator appears in the display.
• Press the trip odometer reset knob for about five seconds. The Service Menu appears in the display.
• Select the items menu with the + or – button.
• Press the menu systems button (left side, below up and down buttons).
• The service indicator now displays the items menu (1 – 14 described below).
• Press the menu systems button until the outside temperature display appears.

1 Due when displayed
Check brake pads & rotors front/rear

2 Every 60,000 miles or 4 years
Replace air cleaner insert

3 Every 30,000 miles or 2 years
Replace combination filter

4 Every 30,000 miles or 2 years
Replace dust filter

5 Every 60,000 miles or 5 years
Replace fuel filter

6 Every 60,000 miles or 5 years
Replace activated charcoal filter

7 Every 100,000 miles or 5 years
Replace spark plugs

8 Every 150,000 miles or 15 years
Replace coolant

9 Every 2 years
Check bodywork for paint damage
Check chassis and load-bearing body components
Replace brake fluid, check pressure of reservoir

10 Every 3 years
Clean slide rails and shoes to sliding/pop-up roof

11 Every 3 years
Clean and lubricate guide mechanism to Panorama sliding roof

12 Due when displayed
Engine oil and filter change

13 Due when displayed
Check fluid levels, correct/repair if necessary
• Brake system
• Power steering
• Windshield washer system
Check safety catch and hinges on engine hood
Check auxiliary battery condition
Function check
• Warning/indicator lamps, illumination and interior lighting
• Windshield wipers, washer system, headlamp cleaning system
Inspect tires
Check thickness of front brake pads
Check main battery

14 Due when displayed
Check for leakage – major components
Check fluid levels, correct/repair if necessary
• Brake system
• Power steering
• Windshield washer system
Check poly-V-belt
Check safety catch and hinges on engine hood
Check auxiliary battery condition
Function check
• Parking brake
• Warning/indicator lamps, illumination and interior lighting
• Windshield wipers, washer system, headlamp cleaning system
• Seat belts and buckles
Inspect tires
Check condition of front/rear brakes
Correct tire inflation pressure, including spare tire
Leakage – major components
Check front axle ball joints for play, check rubber boots
Inspect condition of flexible disks
Inspect play of tie rod and drag link joints, inspect rubber boots
Check main battery

 

Good info..... Thanks.


B.T.W..... Dealer informed me they changed the air filters (both) during the last service @ 10,000 miles.

 

I just noticed on Christmas Eve that my car changed its message on "service due" from Service A to Service C. The mileage and number of days remaining were the same. When I went to get my oil changed at 5,000 miles for the first time (I paid for this service a total of $112.20) I asked my advisor what happened. He stated that it is totally normal to have the first service of a car not be service A. So that made sense after I read this thread again. More or less the letter signifies how long the service will take and it will help the service writer schedule an appointment since he will know how long the mechanic will be tied up.

I sated on another thread that I was going to, at least, get the oil changed at 5,000 miles (without resetting the computer) and have the oil tested. The reasoning is to see (for myself) how good the oil was and to see if the FSS is truly accurate. I have the oil sample and I will be posting the results of the tests once I get around to sending it in.

Another thing that I am looking out for (which my service advisor said) is that the FSS computer should now sense that the oil quality is better and should give me another extra 1,000 miles or so until the next service. My service advisor also said that it is no problem to get the car serviced 2,000 miles before the service is due. MB will still pay for it (2004 and older models).

I am stubborn and since I keep cars for a long time, I don't want to rely on what people say. I would hate myself if I had premature engine wear right after my extended warranty expired! So since no one has posted actual test results, I will take car of this myself and post them. You know what I am saying?

Steve A.

 

I hear you. How exactly does your dealer take a sample while using the vacuum oil extractor?

This is a question that has been plaguing me for a while now, as I want to start an oil analysis regimen when my CDI arrives. (I already send airplane oil samples to a lab, so adding one is no big deal.)

If they dip out of the catch container they use for everybody, I fear that you wouldn't get very good results, even if they dumped it out first.

 

Once the hose had a siphon going, they put my sample bottle and filled it. I saw it. Also, the bottle was nice and HOT from the oil being hot. My service rep made sure I saw it being done. He knows me well by now.

I have to search these threads, but I have still to find where to send the oil sample. Do you have the name and INFO. for the place you send your oil?

BTW, once the oil was changed, but the FSS computer was not reset, I only gained about 700 miles on the oil life.

Thanks,

Steve A.

 

There are many labs from which to choose, but the important thing is that you choose one and stay with it. Readings are not straightforwardly comparable from lab to lab. What you're looking for are trends against your own baseline.

If you are really into oil geeking, check out the Bob is the Oil Guy Forum. I would take any random commenter with a grain of salt, but there are some oil analysis graybeards on there. People post their analyses and discuss them.

The lab I have used for a long time has been purchased by Blackstone Labs. If you're fanatical, you might want to try the automotive "Dyson" analysis, which includes a Total Base Number, and commentary by a gentleman named Terry Dyson, who spends a lot of time helping people on the BITOG forum listed above.

I think you could get benefit even without the total base number, but the prolonged time between changes with the FSS would seem to perhaps justify knowing whether the additive package is holding up.

Most analysis places will mail you either pre or post-paid sample kits. I keep a few around so they're handy when I take the car in for service.

 

So I finally got the lab work back with interesting results. My hunch was right! I had the feeling the oil quality would still be fine after 5,000 miles (The TBN was "4.5" and at 2 the oil is not longer good). However, look at the metal readings compared to the "universal averages." There is a lot of break-in debris floating around in the oil! I think that warranted a sooner than recommended oil change.

I did not reset the computer when I first had the oil changed, so I will be changing the oil due to the FSS readout well before the 7,500 miles that the lab said I could go. I will test the oil again at that time and then see if I can get reach the 13,000 mile interval. Like they said, there was a lot of silicon (5 times the normal level) in the oil and it is not a good thing to have in there.

I like to take care of my cars since I tend to keep them for a long long time. Also, this kind of stuff sells the car for you when you are trying to sell the car yourself. I will be selling this car, in spite of normal tendencies, as soon as a diesel 4-Matic comes to the US.

Here are the results, they speak for themselves.

Steve

 

Steve,

Your results are as I anticipated. The molybdenum must be comming from the main and rod bearings breaking in. I too was concerned about the oil in a new engine so I changed it at 2,300 and 5,000 miles. The FSS decided to want service at 8,500 - 16 months. I will change the oil at 13,500 and then we will see how long it will go before the FSS decides it wants some service.

Jim

 

Jim, here is the key that states what each reading means. I would have posted this before, but I finally got it in the mail last week. It looks as if the OEM oil has a lot of anti-wear additives.

Steve

 

>There is a lot of break-in debris floating around in the oil! I think that warranted a >sooner than recommended oil change.

I've been reading this thread with interest. Last week my car was in for it's initial check up at 2500 miles. I asked them to change the oil, but the service rep said: "Mercedes Benz advises against it. It could actually cause some damage." Now I am a woman, but I'm not stupid, so my first thought was that he didn't know what he was talking about. (I'd already determined that he did NOT know about the problem with the radio presets on the E.) But, perhaps what he had in mind was the anti-wear additives? I decided to let it go for the time being, with the thought that I could insist that they change it at 5000.

 

As you can see from the lab report, the engine sure does come with a lot of anti-wear additives. There could be some truth to that, but I am not convinced. Knowing what I know now, I would definitely change the oil by 5,000 miles and not let it go any longer.

I was tired of hearing so many conflicting opinions about when to change the oil. That is why I went through the trouble of getting it tested. I will test the oil again on the next change. I would be willing to bet that it will be much better and that I will be able to go the whole 10-13K interval with no worries after that oil change. When that oil is changed (the one with a full 10-13k miles on it), I will test it as well.

I am glad that this is post is helping MB owners make educated/informed decisions. However, I don't think that changing the oil at about 2-3k miles is a bad idea or would really hurt anything. The way I see it, it would get rid of all particulates floating around. That is a "good thing."

Steve

 

Steve, thanks for the informative post. I will print it out and shove it down my SA's throat when he tells me oil change is not needed until 10K miles.

 

Steve, I really applaud your efforts to resolve the oil-change conflict. I will also be printing out your test results and carrying them with me the next time I take my car in. (I also printed out the original "servce" post to keep in my file.) Thanks!

Sherrill

 

Steve, thanks for the oil info. Just picked up a 2005 e320 cdi.( My 4th diesel) When I looked quickly under the hood, the black engine cover seemed to be in the way of lifting out the oil filter. Could you describe the procedure you use to remove that cover to lift out the filter? I presume the torque setting is on the filter, but I am not sure. I use 27nm for the filter on my S class. Also, where is the best place to get a maintenance manual( DVD?) for the car? Thanks. Jim

 

I only know how to remove the cover on the gasoline E320. I am also under free service, so I have no idea of any specs yet. I am sure someone else on this board can help you though.

Steve

 

Here in the UK we have a technical expert who writes for one of the national daily papers. He recommends an oil change for all cars at 5,000 mile / 6 month intervals in all circumstances BUT not at the first 5,000 miles. He recommends leaving the original oil in for the first 10,000 miles and then changes every 5,000 thereafter. The reasoning is that the metal particles act as an abrasive and assist in the bedding-in / running-in process. Apparently, there is an increasing phenomenon of cars failing to ever run in properly resulting in high oil consumption throughout the vehicle's life.

You can read his online advice column at Honest John

and specifically his advice in his FAQ pages regarding running vehicles in.

 

My, that certainly goes against all that I have heard. I can't imagine that any metal particles would be good for a bearing surface.

Jim

 

I totally agree with this especially when using synthetics for break-in.... What I don't agree with is the 5000 mile changes after break-in.... Totally wasting your money changing syntetics at this interval.... Unless of coarse he's talking dyno oil...


Absolutly right.... that is except your pocket book (unnecessarily)....

 

So I had a leak and put my car in for the "1st visit" at 2,400 miles. The service writeup shows they replaced a leaking sender and put in 8 quarts (seems high for a CDI) of "MOBIL SYN OIL", with a part number of "5-40D". I have no clue what oil that is, because there's no 5W40 oil listed in the approved oils list for the car.

What I'm really surprised at is the lack of any indication that they replaced the filter. I don't know what the interval for changing the fleece filter is (probably 13K miles), but it seems like poor practice to fill an entire crankcase without putting in a new filter.

Has anyone seen this before. I'm still getting used to these 5-digit change intervals, so I might be over-conservative, but it seems like cheap (?) insurance to change the filter.

 

They might have used Mobil 5-40 Delvac 1. Probably approved for the climate you are in. Look on your bill and double check they didn't put a filter in, then go and yell at them. MB probably doesn't reimburse the dealer if they change the filter early. Fleece lasts longer, but during the break-in period, I'd change the filter. And I'd also be careful going 13,000. If you are going to keep the car for a long time, I'd cut that in half. Jimbo 1

 

Does this help?
http://www.mercedestechstore.com/pdf...2008-16-02.pdf

or...
http://www.mercedestechstore.com/pdf...2008-05-02.pdf

 

dear saffrontiger,
I've a w211 220CDI bought in Germany (2002) and I'm not able to access FSS the way you mention. Do you (or other MBiastic) as an idea/solution of what's happening?
There is no MB service service for this car here in Mexico (were I'm living now) .
Thanks,

 

Hey Guy's my car turns 2 years with only 6k! Should I request service or wait until the car computer asks for it. The only thing the dealer has done until now was perfom an overall check in the 2,000 mi and until now nothing else has been done. Any advice?

 

I just bought my 2003 E500 with 19,800 miles on it, i dont know when the last oil change was done, should i wait for the display to tell me? and when should I expect the display, I currently have 20,300 on it. Or is there a way to find out when the last oil change was done?

 

Note that the FSS uses distance and time related variables to determine maintenance intervals. As mentioned in the first post:

Call up the service data
• Switch ignition on.
• Outside temperature display.
• Press button up or down on the steering wheel until the FSS PLUS indicator appears in the display.
• Press the trip odometer reset knob for about five seconds. The Service Menu appears in the display.
• Select the items menu with the + or – button.
• Press the menu systems button (left side, below up and down buttons).
• The service indicator now displays the items menu (1 – 14 referenced in the first post).
• Press the menu systems button until the outside temperature display appears.

This will indicate the individual service items that are coming due and mileage countdown.