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Door card removal?
03-02-2011, 06:33 AM
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E350 CDI
Door card removal?
Anybody tried removing the door cards from a W212 E class. I would like to install some additional sound proofing on the inside of the doors but can seem to find a way to get the door cards off.
03-02-2011, 01:37 PM
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'11 350 4matic - '14 Stingray: Gone, BMW 530i, Porsche 944 Turbo, Porsche 356, Mitsubishi 3000GT
...good luck. Dont know how much it will help however. Here's a picture of what you will find and some info for you...can't vouch if it is 100% correct.
Under the door handle, there are two Torx screws (forgot which size) that you will need to remove. You then slide either a plastic interior trim wedge or a plastic putty knife in between the trim panel and door shell and pull the trim panel away. It will make a loud "pop" noise but don't worry. Some of the clips (orange in color) may break but none of mine did. Before popping the trim panel back on, make sure none of the clips are attached to the door shell. They should be attached to the trim panel when popping it back on.
Under the door handle, there are two Torx screws (forgot which size) that you will need to remove. You then slide either a plastic interior trim wedge or a plastic putty knife in between the trim panel and door shell and pull the trim panel away. It will make a loud "pop" noise but don't worry. Some of the clips (orange in color) may break but none of mine did. Before popping the trim panel back on, make sure none of the clips are attached to the door shell. They should be attached to the trim panel when popping it back on.
Last edited by BPhillyBenz; 03-02-2011 at 01:44 PM.
03-02-2011, 03:03 PM
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Thanks. Just gone out and had a look at mine. Can't seem to find the Torx screws. Do you need to remove the piece of trim that runs under the door handle to get access to the screws?
10-18-2011, 04:17 PM
#4
Yes - underneath the armrest is a (horizontal) plastic trim piece about 9 inches long. Prise that out with a plastic flat bladed lever. Then use a magnetic torx screwdriver to remove the two torx screws - horizontally (T25 - I think; quite large anyway). Then with two plastic wedges (in a warm garage to make the plastic clips less brittle) work your way around the door trim unclipping the door card from the metal door frame. Do not lose the black rubber anti-rattle washers that sit on each orange platic door clip. A tiny bit of WD40 or grease will ease them back into postion when you refit.
However on later models you will find a metal cover (plastic on earlier models) riveted onto the door frame onto which the wiring and window electric motor and speaker are all bolted/ riveted. To fit sound deadening strips inside the door you will need to drill out these three rivets on the large black plastic speaker. This will then give you access to the interior door skin. Take very great care with the wiring strips to the door control unit. These are very, very fragile. Do not let the door trim hang by these wires. You must unclip them carefully from the control unit. Also the speaker wires x 2 plus the door interior light must be unclipped too. The bottoms of the E Class (W212) need a bit more sound proofing to make nice dull "thud" when ther doors are closed.
Allow about 30 - 40 minutes per door. Work in a warm garage or the sound deadening strips are hard to bend and stick to the door skins. You will also need a good inspection lamp to see inside the door.Cost savings no doubt using rivets instead of screws. Not many E Class owners will want to access the door interiors I suppose!
Philip Smith
Chester
UK
However on later models you will find a metal cover (plastic on earlier models) riveted onto the door frame onto which the wiring and window electric motor and speaker are all bolted/ riveted. To fit sound deadening strips inside the door you will need to drill out these three rivets on the large black plastic speaker. This will then give you access to the interior door skin. Take very great care with the wiring strips to the door control unit. These are very, very fragile. Do not let the door trim hang by these wires. You must unclip them carefully from the control unit. Also the speaker wires x 2 plus the door interior light must be unclipped too. The bottoms of the E Class (W212) need a bit more sound proofing to make nice dull "thud" when ther doors are closed.
Allow about 30 - 40 minutes per door. Work in a warm garage or the sound deadening strips are hard to bend and stick to the door skins. You will also need a good inspection lamp to see inside the door.Cost savings no doubt using rivets instead of screws. Not many E Class owners will want to access the door interiors I suppose!
Philip Smith
Chester
UK
10-18-2011, 04:31 PM
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2012 CLS63
...good luck. Dont know how much it will help however. Here's a picture of what you will find and some info for you...can't vouch if it is 100% correct.
Under the door handle, there are two Torx screws (forgot which size) that you will need to remove. You then slide either a plastic interior trim wedge or a plastic putty knife in between the trim panel and door shell and pull the trim panel away. It will make a loud "pop" noise but don't worry. Some of the clips (orange in color) may break but none of mine did. Before popping the trim panel back on, make sure none of the clips are attached to the door shell. They should be attached to the trim panel when popping it back on.
Under the door handle, there are two Torx screws (forgot which size) that you will need to remove. You then slide either a plastic interior trim wedge or a plastic putty knife in between the trim panel and door shell and pull the trim panel away. It will make a loud "pop" noise but don't worry. Some of the clips (orange in color) may break but none of mine did. Before popping the trim panel back on, make sure none of the clips are attached to the door shell. They should be attached to the trim panel when popping it back on.
10-23-2012, 10:19 AM
#6
[QUOTE=philipgsmith;4879767]Yes - underneath the armrest is a (horizontal) plastic trim piece about 9 inches long. Prise that out with a plastic flat bladed lever. Then use a magnetic torx screwdriver to remove the two torx screws - horizontally (T30 - I think; quite large anyway). Then with two plastic wedges (in a warm garage to make the plastic clips less brittle) work your way around the door trim unclipping the door card from the metal door frame. Do not lose the black rubber anti-rattle washers that sit on each orange platic door clip. A tiny bit of vaseline to retian the rubber washers & on the door clips/ holes. This will help ease them back into postion when you refit.
You will also need to unclip the interior door handle cable (this just unclips from the white plastic "snap" mount).
Take very great care with the wiring strips to the door control unit. These are very fragile. Do not let the door trim hang by these wires. You must unclip them carefully from the control unit. Also the speaker wires x 2 plus the door interior light must be unclipped too.
On later models you will find a metal cover (plastic on earlier models) riveted onto the door frame onto which the wiring and window electric motor and speaker are all bolted/ riveted. To fit sound deadening strips inside the door you will need to drill out these three rivets on the large black plastic door speaker. This will then give you access to the interior door skin. There is a small square black access panel at the other end of the door (near the door handle) that gives access to the interior as well. Take care not to jam the window winding mechanisms or door handles/ locks. Take extra care that the sound deadening panels have stuck to the metal and not come away. The bottoms of the E Class (W212) need a bit more sound proofing to make nice dull "thud" when ther doors are closed.
It is also well worth putting some sound deadening material on the interior metal cover that holds the electric motor for the window.
Allow about 40 - 60 minutes per door including dismantling and re-assembly.
Work in a warm and dry garage or the sound deadening strips are hard to bend and stick to the door skins. Use a hairdryer to keep the pads & door skins dry and warm. You will also need a good (LED) inspection lamp to see inside the door.
Cost savings no doubt but using rivets instead of screws to hold the speakers and door plates in place makes the job a bit harder. I suppose not many E Class owners will want to access the door interiors and will leave it to the dealers !
Philip Smith
Chester
UK
(Addendum added 23/10/12)
You will also need to unclip the interior door handle cable (this just unclips from the white plastic "snap" mount).
Take very great care with the wiring strips to the door control unit. These are very fragile. Do not let the door trim hang by these wires. You must unclip them carefully from the control unit. Also the speaker wires x 2 plus the door interior light must be unclipped too.
On later models you will find a metal cover (plastic on earlier models) riveted onto the door frame onto which the wiring and window electric motor and speaker are all bolted/ riveted. To fit sound deadening strips inside the door you will need to drill out these three rivets on the large black plastic door speaker. This will then give you access to the interior door skin. There is a small square black access panel at the other end of the door (near the door handle) that gives access to the interior as well. Take care not to jam the window winding mechanisms or door handles/ locks. Take extra care that the sound deadening panels have stuck to the metal and not come away. The bottoms of the E Class (W212) need a bit more sound proofing to make nice dull "thud" when ther doors are closed.
It is also well worth putting some sound deadening material on the interior metal cover that holds the electric motor for the window.
Allow about 40 - 60 minutes per door including dismantling and re-assembly.
Work in a warm and dry garage or the sound deadening strips are hard to bend and stick to the door skins. Use a hairdryer to keep the pads & door skins dry and warm. You will also need a good (LED) inspection lamp to see inside the door.
Cost savings no doubt but using rivets instead of screws to hold the speakers and door plates in place makes the job a bit harder. I suppose not many E Class owners will want to access the door interiors and will leave it to the dealers !
Philip Smith
Chester
UK
(Addendum added 23/10/12)
Last edited by philipgsmith; 11-29-2012 at 05:45 PM. Reason: typos
10-23-2012, 11:06 AM
#7
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This is like reinventing the wheel. Some of the world's best automotive engineers have designed these cars. It is very doubtfull that you will accomplish anything and most probably will screw the car up.
Last edited by petee1997; 10-23-2012 at 07:26 PM.
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10-23-2012, 02:43 PM
#8
In my 2012, the doorcard is attached at the top most rearward corner to the door under the weather stripping in a manner I couldn't figure to undo.
I didn't want to break the doorcard at that point so left it supported but still attached at that point while doing speaker work.
Philip, do you know how to release the doorcard there?
I didn't want to break the doorcard at that point so left it supported but still attached at that point while doing speaker work.
Philip, do you know how to release the doorcard there?
10-23-2012, 02:47 PM
#9
10-24-2012, 04:40 AM
#10
Hi Brauhaus313
Mine is a 2011 build 4 door saloon E Class W212. The door cards just lift off the tops of the metal doors once you have removed the screws and the button clips, electric cables and the door pull cable. Check that you have also removed the "tweater" speaker" plastic cover [if fitted] next to the door mirror. This may be trapping the top of the door card that you describe.
I certainly disagree with petee1997 in that whilst the best engineers in the world design the MB cars it is the accountants that decide what is and is not included in the specifications based on price and best profitibilty for the manufactuer. Also all manfactuers are rightly obsessed with fuel economy and weight saving. My E Class W212 doors (and my wifes Audi A5 doors) are horribly "tinny" and clanged when they were shut. Even the new CLS has really tinny rear doors - rap your knuckles on the door/ roof/ trunk lid of an S Class and you will hear what I mean. I agree with petee1997 in that this work is not for the novice or the faint hearted.You have to know what you are doing and have the right tools and time etc. Make sure you have downloaded advice and photos of the doors before you staert any work and be slow and gentle. It is not complex work - just know what you are doing before you start and don't go into the work blind.
My wife thinks I am potty but it is "horses for courses". There is nothing like the lovely dull thud of the door (as per the VW Golf TV advert ["sounds just like a Golf"]). It all depends on what is important to you as the individual.
Philip
Mine is a 2011 build 4 door saloon E Class W212. The door cards just lift off the tops of the metal doors once you have removed the screws and the button clips, electric cables and the door pull cable. Check that you have also removed the "tweater" speaker" plastic cover [if fitted] next to the door mirror. This may be trapping the top of the door card that you describe.
I certainly disagree with petee1997 in that whilst the best engineers in the world design the MB cars it is the accountants that decide what is and is not included in the specifications based on price and best profitibilty for the manufactuer. Also all manfactuers are rightly obsessed with fuel economy and weight saving. My E Class W212 doors (and my wifes Audi A5 doors) are horribly "tinny" and clanged when they were shut. Even the new CLS has really tinny rear doors - rap your knuckles on the door/ roof/ trunk lid of an S Class and you will hear what I mean. I agree with petee1997 in that this work is not for the novice or the faint hearted.You have to know what you are doing and have the right tools and time etc. Make sure you have downloaded advice and photos of the doors before you staert any work and be slow and gentle. It is not complex work - just know what you are doing before you start and don't go into the work blind.
My wife thinks I am potty but it is "horses for courses". There is nothing like the lovely dull thud of the door (as per the VW Golf TV advert ["sounds just like a Golf"]). It all depends on what is important to you as the individual.
Philip
10-24-2012, 04:40 AM
#11
I certainly disagree with petee1997 in that whilst the best engineers in the world design the MB cars it is the accountants that decide what is and is not included in the specifications based on price and best profitibilty for the manufactuer. Also all manfactuers are rightly obsessed with fuel economy and weight saving. My E Class W212 doors (and my wifes Audi A5 doors) are horribly "tinny" and clanged when they were shut. Even the new CLS has really tinny rear doors - rap your knuckles on the door/ roof/ trunk lid of an S Class and you will hear what I mean. I agree with petee1997 in that this work is not for the novice or the faint hearted.You have to know what you are doing and have the right tools and time etc. Make sure you have downloaded advice and photos of the doors before you staert any work and be slow and gentle. It is not complex work - just know what you are doing before you start and don't go into the work blind.
My wife thinks I am potty but it is "horses for courses". There is nothing like the lovely dull thud of the door (as per the VW Golf TV advert ["sounds just like a Golf"]). It all depends on what is important to you as the individual.
Philip
My wife thinks I am potty but it is "horses for courses". There is nothing like the lovely dull thud of the door (as per the VW Golf TV advert ["sounds just like a Golf"]). It all depends on what is important to you as the individual.
Philip
