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HID conversion question
03-09-2012, 11:28 PM
#76
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09 C63, 12 E350 4M
11-10-2012, 11:03 PM
#77
I just installed the Mtec 6000K as well, now the HIDs are bluish when first come on , then turn bright white as they heat up. My problem is that i cant find matching color parking lamps... the many pairs of CANBUS 168 LEDs that i have bought so far are a slight hint on the blue side, while these MTEC HIDs are pure white. Any suggestion on some matching parking Lights?
btw, the MTEC 6000K HIDS are so much better than originals as far as brightness. The installation (sry, i took my time!) was about 3-4 hrs, had a drill with a drill tool for a 1 inch hole, plastic ties, 3M outdoor double sided tape. The polarity matters, i used volt meter and can tell you that: if you look at the low beam plug straight on, the left side is + while the right side is - (Left side (+) has 1 wire to the plug and right side of the plug (-) has 2 wires ). Another important point is how to install and TURN the bulb - if you are sitting at the driver seat, you will be turning the bulb Clockwise to "lock" them in place. There are 2 tabs in the low beam housing to lock the H7 in place, they are located North and South, the south tab has a "mouth" facing east while the north tab has one facing west (again, NESW are all directions when you look sitting in driver seat, imagine the housing clip being a big reverse "S" when you are looking at it while driving. So clockwise to lock , and counterclockwise to unlock the H7 plate)
Plan where you will put the ballast and ignitor first under the hood, then hook up the HIDs, MAKE SURE they light up , then put in the CAP with that 1" hole you drilled with the 4 wires in, THEN mount the Ballast/Ignitor. My logic is that, if you instead mount the Ballast/Ignitor first, then find out the components are bad, you will have to unhook them in order to put the halogens back to let the car run, lots of work! I did buy extra low beam housing round CAPS from parts.com while i got a new windshield for my wife's SUV (to save on shipping), bc i knew i was gonna drill 1" holes on these CAPs for the HIDs, may as well get some backup CAPS.
The MTEC 6000k BULBs for W212 will fit the Low beam housing holes, not as easy as the halogens, bc the MTEC kits bulb has a "loose" locking "Plate" (with 2 tabs North and South on purpose), while the Halogens H7 locking plate is glued to the bulb itself, so Halogen one wont move around. You have to do moderate to lot of hard fingering to keep the MTEC locking plate down (towards the bulb, towards the front of car) so the TABS will fit into the reverse S Shape housing clip that i mentioned earlier as you turn clockwise (clockwise looking from the driver seat).
What an ordeal! I am use to working on Japanese cars, German hoods are so tightly and convolutedly packed that sometimes you have to work your hands hard and think ahead in order to fix something.
PS again, i need advise on a set of CANBUS 168 that are not as bluish as mine so i can match the whitish 6000K MTEC HIDs. All the CANBUS 168 that i have gotten so far have a slight bluish tint to them that would make them look almost stupid.
Thanks!
btw, the MTEC 6000K HIDS are so much better than originals as far as brightness. The installation (sry, i took my time!) was about 3-4 hrs, had a drill with a drill tool for a 1 inch hole, plastic ties, 3M outdoor double sided tape. The polarity matters, i used volt meter and can tell you that: if you look at the low beam plug straight on, the left side is + while the right side is - (Left side (+) has 1 wire to the plug and right side of the plug (-) has 2 wires ). Another important point is how to install and TURN the bulb - if you are sitting at the driver seat, you will be turning the bulb Clockwise to "lock" them in place. There are 2 tabs in the low beam housing to lock the H7 in place, they are located North and South, the south tab has a "mouth" facing east while the north tab has one facing west (again, NESW are all directions when you look sitting in driver seat, imagine the housing clip being a big reverse "S" when you are looking at it while driving. So clockwise to lock , and counterclockwise to unlock the H7 plate)
Plan where you will put the ballast and ignitor first under the hood, then hook up the HIDs, MAKE SURE they light up , then put in the CAP with that 1" hole you drilled with the 4 wires in, THEN mount the Ballast/Ignitor. My logic is that, if you instead mount the Ballast/Ignitor first, then find out the components are bad, you will have to unhook them in order to put the halogens back to let the car run, lots of work! I did buy extra low beam housing round CAPS from parts.com while i got a new windshield for my wife's SUV (to save on shipping), bc i knew i was gonna drill 1" holes on these CAPs for the HIDs, may as well get some backup CAPS.
The MTEC 6000k BULBs for W212 will fit the Low beam housing holes, not as easy as the halogens, bc the MTEC kits bulb has a "loose" locking "Plate" (with 2 tabs North and South on purpose), while the Halogens H7 locking plate is glued to the bulb itself, so Halogen one wont move around. You have to do moderate to lot of hard fingering to keep the MTEC locking plate down (towards the bulb, towards the front of car) so the TABS will fit into the reverse S Shape housing clip that i mentioned earlier as you turn clockwise (clockwise looking from the driver seat).
What an ordeal! I am use to working on Japanese cars, German hoods are so tightly and convolutedly packed that sometimes you have to work your hands hard and think ahead in order to fix something.
PS again, i need advise on a set of CANBUS 168 that are not as bluish as mine so i can match the whitish 6000K MTEC HIDs. All the CANBUS 168 that i have gotten so far have a slight bluish tint to them that would make them look almost stupid.
Thanks!
Last edited by whytechno; 11-12-2012 at 07:57 PM. Reason: S shape add "reverse"
11-10-2012, 11:28 PM
#78
MBWorld Fanatic!
thank you for the long writeup 
! i'm kind of surprise to hear your 6000k is bright white and 168 led are bluish. i thought the other way around. i have 5000k but they are not mtec. i think they are more on the white side. i need to double check and see what color that is. as for the led parking lights, i know mine aren't 100% matched but still don't think they are bluish 
. need to check on that, too.
! i'm kind of surprise to hear your 6000k is bright white and 168 led are bluish. i thought the other way around. i have 5000k but they are not mtec. i think they are more on the white side. i need to double check and see what color that is. as for the led parking lights, i know mine aren't 100% matched but still don't think they are bluish . need to check on that, too.
11-11-2012, 07:55 PM
#79
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2011 E350 4-Matic Sport
No, I saw his request asking about a HID kit. In order for him to be able to make a decision, he needs all the FICTION.
*FICTION*
Part of the FICTION are that there are no HID kits that work properly or are legal.
FACT - MOST KITS WILL WORK w Error Canceller or Canbus KIT
Another FACT - most come with paperwork, THEN DEFINITELY LEGAL
You said that you knew of some. Care to share?
FACT - EBAY
Another FICTION is that he may be putting portions of his warranty at risk - the main portion at risk is the entire electrical system
FACT - Most Plug n Play kits can be easily UNPLUG!!!what HID KIT? Wow!!!
**MOST IMPORTANT FACT OF ALL**
*IF YOUR WARRANTY GETS VOIDED BECAUSE OF YOUR AFTERMARKET
MOD, GUESS WHAT BUDDY? KEEP IT STOCK or its time to find a new hobby.
*FICTION*
Part of the FICTION are that there are no HID kits that work properly or are legal.
FACT - MOST KITS WILL WORK w Error Canceller or Canbus KIT
Another FACT - most come with paperwork, THEN DEFINITELY LEGAL
You said that you knew of some. Care to share?
FACT - EBAY
Another FICTION is that he may be putting portions of his warranty at risk - the main portion at risk is the entire electrical system
FACT - Most Plug n Play kits can be easily UNPLUG!!!
what HID KIT? Wow!!! **MOST IMPORTANT FACT OF ALL**
*IF YOUR WARRANTY GETS VOIDED BECAUSE OF YOUR AFTERMARKET
MOD, GUESS WHAT BUDDY? KEEP IT STOCK or its time to find a new hobby.
11-11-2012, 07:58 PM
#80
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Washington, MI
Posts: 192
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2011 E350 4-Matic Sport
I just installed the Mtec 6000K as well, now the HIDs are bluish when first come on , then turn bright white as they heat up. My problem is that i cant find matching color parking lamps... the many pairs of CANBUS 168 LEDs that i have bought so far are a slight hint on the blue side, while these MTEC HIDs are pure white. Any suggestion on some matching parking Lights?
btw, the MTEC 6000K HIDS are so much better than originals as far as brightness. The installation (sry, i took my time!) was about 3-4 hrs, had a drill with a drill tool for a 1 inch hole, plastic ties, 3M outdoor double sided tape. The polarity matters, i used volt meter and can tell you that: if you look at the low beam plug straight on, the left side is + while the right side is - (Left side (+) has 1 wire to the plug and right side of the plug (-) has 2 wires ). Another important point is how to install and TURN the bulb - if you are sitting at the driver seat, you will be turning the bulb Clockwise to "lock" them in place. There are 2 tabs in the low beam housing to lock the H7 in place, they are located North and South, the south tab has a "mouth" facing east while the north tab has one facing west (again, NESW are all directions when you look sitting in driver seat, imagine the housing clip being a big "S" when you are looking at it while driving. So clockwise to lock , and counterclockwise to unlock the H7 plate)
Plan where you will put the ballast and ignitor first under the hood, then hook up the HIDs, MAKE SURE they light up , then put in the CAP with that 1" hole you drilled with the 4 wires in, THEN mount the Ballast/Ignitor. My logic is that, if you instead mount the Ballast/Ignitor first, then find out the components are bad, you will have to unhook them in order to put the halogens back to let the car run, lots of work! I did buy extra low beam housing round CAPS from parts.com while i got a new windshield for my wife's SUV (to save on shipping), bc i knew i was gonna drill 1" holes on these CAPs for the HIDs, may as well get some backup CAPS.
The MTEC 6000k BULBs for W212 will fit the Low beam housing holes, not as easy as the halogens, bc the MTEC kits bulb has a "loose" locking "Plate" (with 2 tabs North and South on purpose), while the Halogens H7 locking plate is glued to the bulb itself, so Halogen one wont move around. You have to do moderate to lot of hard fingering to keep the MTEC locking plate down (towards the bulb, towards the front of car) so the TABS will fit into the S Shape housing clip that i mentioned earlier as you turn clockwise (clockwise looking from the driver seat).
What an ordeal! I am use to working on Japanese cars, German hoods are so tightly and convolutedly packed that sometimes you have to work your hands hard and think ahead in order to fix something.
PS again, i need advise on a set of CANBUS 168 that are not as bluish as mine so i can match the whitish 6000K MTEC HIDs. All the CANBUS 168 that i have gotten so far have a slight bluish tint to them that would make them look almost stupid.
Thanks!
btw, the MTEC 6000K HIDS are so much better than originals as far as brightness. The installation (sry, i took my time!) was about 3-4 hrs, had a drill with a drill tool for a 1 inch hole, plastic ties, 3M outdoor double sided tape. The polarity matters, i used volt meter and can tell you that: if you look at the low beam plug straight on, the left side is + while the right side is - (Left side (+) has 1 wire to the plug and right side of the plug (-) has 2 wires ). Another important point is how to install and TURN the bulb - if you are sitting at the driver seat, you will be turning the bulb Clockwise to "lock" them in place. There are 2 tabs in the low beam housing to lock the H7 in place, they are located North and South, the south tab has a "mouth" facing east while the north tab has one facing west (again, NESW are all directions when you look sitting in driver seat, imagine the housing clip being a big "S" when you are looking at it while driving. So clockwise to lock , and counterclockwise to unlock the H7 plate)
Plan where you will put the ballast and ignitor first under the hood, then hook up the HIDs, MAKE SURE they light up , then put in the CAP with that 1" hole you drilled with the 4 wires in, THEN mount the Ballast/Ignitor. My logic is that, if you instead mount the Ballast/Ignitor first, then find out the components are bad, you will have to unhook them in order to put the halogens back to let the car run, lots of work! I did buy extra low beam housing round CAPS from parts.com while i got a new windshield for my wife's SUV (to save on shipping), bc i knew i was gonna drill 1" holes on these CAPs for the HIDs, may as well get some backup CAPS.
The MTEC 6000k BULBs for W212 will fit the Low beam housing holes, not as easy as the halogens, bc the MTEC kits bulb has a "loose" locking "Plate" (with 2 tabs North and South on purpose), while the Halogens H7 locking plate is glued to the bulb itself, so Halogen one wont move around. You have to do moderate to lot of hard fingering to keep the MTEC locking plate down (towards the bulb, towards the front of car) so the TABS will fit into the S Shape housing clip that i mentioned earlier as you turn clockwise (clockwise looking from the driver seat).
What an ordeal! I am use to working on Japanese cars, German hoods are so tightly and convolutedly packed that sometimes you have to work your hands hard and think ahead in order to fix something.
PS again, i need advise on a set of CANBUS 168 that are not as bluish as mine so i can match the whitish 6000K MTEC HIDs. All the CANBUS 168 that i have gotten so far have a slight bluish tint to them that would make them look almost stupid.
Thanks!
I got my parking lights from Asian optics (seller on this forum). Happy to hear that you like the 6k kit as well
