W212 Erratic Window Switch Problem
auto-up will not work, when i hold the lever up it will go all the way up, close and then reopen about 1/2in.. then i have to pull the lever up again to close it....VERY annoying
it is pathetic MB will not recall this problem




This is about friction forces with the system, which can be internal mechanism or the window itself against the seals. Seems like MB thinks it is the window/seal friction issue as their fix is to change to a thinner glass. I would rather change the seal material myself.
It also seems that the system needs to be reset after this happens just once. This is done by holding the switch to close the window and keep holding the switch for about 5 seconds after the window is closed. I have been lucky with this as it has happened only once on the driver's door.
Interesting to read that someone has the issue with lower temperature. Rubber gets harder and shrinks with colder temperature so this all should lower the friction between glass and rubber seals so it points to the direction of friction being too high in the mechanism inside the door. Perhaps they use wrong kind in lubricant there?
Last edited by Arrie; Mar 4, 2014 at 08:17 PM.
auto-up will not work, when i hold the lever up it will go all the way up, close and then reopen about 1/2in.. then i have to pull the lever up again to close it....VERY annoying
it is pathetic MB will not recall this problem
I've told my SA every time I've been in for service. He says the same thing "We've reset the windows for you"
Like is this issue not going to go away!?
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I've told my SA every time I've been in for service. He says the same thing "We've reset the windows for you"
Like is this issue not going to go away!?
I have a different problem on my drivers side. Sometimes when I roll down/up the window, I get a scratchy noise as if there is sand in between the windows. Dealer tried to fix it and blamed it on the NON-MB tint.
Gave up on both and just dealing with it...
it feels like the window regulator has a mind of its own. whenever i press it down completely to roll it ALL the way down, it rolls down completely (until I press it up to stop rolling down) without any problems whatsoever.
BUT, the problem occurs when im trying to roll the window back up. both driver side and passenger side and it seems like it only suffers in the fronts. never in the rear windows.
I would press it to auto-roll-down and midway through, ill press it upwards so itll just stop rolling down. but, instead, itll stop for a second, and then keep rolling down all the way. so what i have to do is then press up again so it stops rolling down further, and then hold it up so it rolls up until the desired height. it is VERY annoying and I wanted to take it into the dealership for the huge inconvenience.
but i do have window tints. so if they try to tell me its not under warranty because of window tints, i will flip a sh!+ like a dirty little chinese man with a small third leg who can only blame his shortcomings to God for f&cking him with an unfair gene. oh it will be hell up in there. i just want my car to be perfect, since right now at this point n my life, nothing is perfect. please Help me Lord.
Brian S
I have a different problem on my drivers side. Sometimes when I roll down/up the window, I get a scratchy noise as if there is sand in between the windows. Dealer tried to fix it and blamed it on the NON-MB tint.
Gave up on both and just dealing with it...




Your window is denormalized.
Use a cReader Elite scanner to retrain the door control unit.




1. They cannot normalize the window position because of one of three possible problems:
a. There is a voltage problem;
b. There is a problem with the control module; or
c. There is a problem with the window motor.
I hate to bother you again, but I would appreciate any advice. Thank you.
Keene




1. They cannot normalize the window position because of one of three possible problems:
a. There is a voltage problem;
b. There is a problem with the control module; or
c. There is a problem with the window motor.
I hate to bother you again, but I would appreciate any advice. Thank you.
Keene
You can replace the module or try to get yours fixed with simple electronic solderings.
To train window position buy yourself a $150 LAUNCH Elite scanner - It may or may not help you code the replacement by transferring data over. Test and report.
You can replace the module or try to get yours fixed with simple electronic solderings.
To train window position buy yourself a $150 LAUNCH Elite scanner - It may or may not help you code the replacement by transferring data over. Test and report.
Last edited by DeanMassy; May 21, 2024 at 01:47 PM.
1) In replacing the door panel, I have impinged on the movement of the window. However, it does not stop and go back down, like when it hits an obstruction.
2) The Hall Sensor in the window motor is faulty, which would require replacing the window motor.
Thoughts?



