newyorktoLA

I got my PC7424 in the mail, my first DA. I was just wondering, what happens if a piece of dirt or a small particle gets in the buffing pad...? Has this happened to anyone on their E? How often do you guys check pads to make sure there is no dirt particles in the pad?

CEB

Wash the pad and the car before touch the PC to the car and you'll be fine. Make sure that you use the proper pad and product.

newyorktoLA

Thanks CEB, but I often don't wash underneath the side sills and the rear bumper. Should I avoid polishing these areas? I don't want the DA to slip underneath the car and catch dirt that could potentially mar...I'm really nervous about this as whenever I dry my car, I always seem to pick up small flies on my towel and other small debris, which I'm afraid the DA might catch as well.

paulkchoi

Do a small area and then check it in the sun light. Some pads and polish create micro scratches that look like little hooks.
I have a DA buffer but I would never use it on my benz. It can create more problems than solves, and yes if you get any type of debris on the pad or use the wrong polish it will definitely show.

ImInPA

I have both a Griot's DA (similar to the Porter Cable) and a Flex DA. Once you start using them you will never go back to hand polishing and waxing. Wash and clay the area you are going to polish. You will be fine. Let the machine do the work. Benz paint is very hard. I cannot imagine trying to polish out swirls by hand on paint this hard.

Mbenz260e

I am thinking on purchasing one also, more so for applying wax evenly and lightly and possibly polishing our '09 though right now don't get bothered by any scratches/swirls so would hold off. I was leaning towards the Griot's 6". I've read alot of discussion in other forums but what swayed you towards the PC and which product are you going to use? I am pretty amateur detail never used a DA polisher. Just typically wash wax an clay now and again...

I recently purchased the wolfgang products I plan to use in the spring...

Paxfobiscum

How old is your car and how bad is your paint for you to need to PC'd it? Those things are effective but for really bad and old paint. Using it in a new car by someone who has never used one, would do more harm than good. If you really want to buff your car, I suggest you go to pro-detailer and watch them a few times use their PCs and then do it yourself later on. Or you could experiment on an older car. Seriously I would reconsider using it on your 2010 E350. But heck, its your car...

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ImInPA

DAs are very safe and provide far superior coverage and eveness than a human hand in a fraction of the time. Short of dropping the unit on the finish, it is hard to imagine what one would have to do with a PC type DA to damage the paint that would not be short of idiotic. I say go for it and enjoy the results.

Paxfobiscum

They are safe and effective for those who know how to use them and are experienced polishers who have used PCs before. Would you allow a total newbie to use a PC for his first time in YOUR CAR? I was being cautious in telling the OP to avoid any risks in trying it for the first time on his "new" car. I see he has a 2010 model but I don't know if the car is new hence my question about his car and his paint. No harm in learning to use it in an older car - correct?

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chrisvr6

+1 the clay is a must.

steelgrey

I highly recommend going to www.Autopia.org and read, read, read. There is a wealth of knowledge there. Really everything you will need to know to get started. The real key to using a PC is proper pad and product selection. Yes, you must keep your pads clean. I store them in plastic zip lock bags. You also need to purchase a pad conditioner to apply to the pad before applying products. You will also want to get a pad cleaning product. I have been using DP Polishing Pad Rejuvenator...works great. Never let any any products dry on your pads. If you plan on using the same pad for a second day just spritz the pad with conditioner and seal in a Zip Lock. Never use the same pad with different products without cleaning first. Never use the same microfiber cloth to remove different products. One towel for each product and wash your microfibers between each days use. DP also makes a special Microfiber Detergent. Always start out with the most gentle pad and product for the job. If you don't get the results you wanted then step up to a more abrasive product and pad. It is almost impossible to damage your paint with a PC. You can however, induce micro marring and fine scratches. Don't panic...they can easily be completely removed by using a finer pad and product. Even if your car just came from the dealer or if you've let them wash your car. You are going to have fine scratches (trust me...my car is black). I own two black cars and a 22 yr old Miata. I started detailing when I purchased my 2003 black Infiniti G35 Coupe 8 yrs ago. It is a fun hobby and almost a full time job when you own two black cars. I personnally use Menzerna polishes. When I need to be more aggressive I use Meguiar's compounds. I prefer sealants to wax and use Blackfire polymer sealant and Blackfire's compatible quick detailer. It is very satisfying to have perfect paint and to be able to keep it that way yourself year after year. Luckily Mercedes has excellent hard clearcoat.

Paxfobiscum

What specific polish do you recommend for regular use, in-between your buffing sessions?

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steelgrey

If there is absolutely no micro marring I just give the car a wipe down with quick detailer. After it's been washed and dried. If after a few washings I'm starting to see some micro marring. I get out the PC and use Menzerna PO85RD with a grey finishing pad. PO85RD has a cut of 1. That is the lowest of all Menzerna polishes. A grey finishing pad has very little cutting properties. There are also a lot of people who instead of using a polish will use a glaze. Menzerna glaze has a cut of 0.5 and really instead of polishing is covering up the tiny scratches with fillers. Glaze can be applied again with a grey or blue pad but, can also be applied by hand. I'm only mentioning Menzerna because it's what gives me the results I'm looking for. There are many products available and everybody has their favorites. One thing I'd also like to mention. All microfiber towels are not equal. Those cheap ones you find at the dollar store can scratch. To test, wipe the shiny side of a DVD with a fair amount of pressure. If it scratches the DVD it will also scratch you're paint.

ImInPA

steelgrey: I use Menzerna 106FA ( just ever so slightly more cut than the PO85RD. ) It leaves the finish near perfect when only slight marring is visible. I have also grown to like the Meguires 205 as a final polish too. You are dead on about MF towels. There is a big difference in quality among them. If you are unsure, I have gotten some great MF from Griot's Garage. All very good quality.

steelgrey

Normally in order to show the clarity of the finish they photograph the reflection of a Halogen light on the finish. This is the reflection on the hood of my May 2010 Black E. The picture may not be the absolute best but I had my wife holding a portable halogen light over the hood of the car. Scary at best. However I still think that from the reflection you can see there is no micro marring. Im in PA...I'm from PA...Pittsburgh originally. Now live in the deep south. Menzerna has recently renamed alot of there products...I'll have to check out the products you mentioned.

newyorktoLA

That looks great steelgrey! I originally bought the DA for polishing out the BAD BAD swirls on my S550 (that thing has waterspots, oxidation, needs to be clayed, random isolated scratches, everything you can imagine). I bought it with Menzerna SIP, and I already have PO85rd that I have used on my 2011 E350 by hand a few times to remove scuffs (it works by hand too!) My black E350 will NEVER see a machine car wash (unlike my S class - live and learn, even though it still goes to the carwash lol) because I'm so afraid of scratches...I plan to use the DA only for waxes on my E. I also only use Zaino's white border free 100% cotton towels and their 100% cotton yellow plush, plush towels. They have not put any scratches into my paint, esp. because they don't have borders. Steelgrey, did you ever have problems with grit getting into the pad before...ever? Does this not happen because of the DA's polishing motion?

steelgrey

To the best of my knowledge no. If you were using a dry pad it would be possible but, you have two sources of lubrication between the pad and your paint. First the pad conditioner (you can use water but, I prefer conditioner) and the product your using. I find clay bar much more likely to scratch. It is very important to use lots of clay lubricant and don't go beyond the area that you've sprayed. I have on occasion though that I had put down alot of lubricant so I stretched the area a little and did scratch the paint. I detail under flourescent lights but check the progress using a Brinkman dual Xenon handheld light and a halogen work light. It's funny the one thing that you bought your PC for, applying sealant/wax is the one thing I do by hand. Your in the perfect situation having your S class to train on. Waterspots, acid rain and bird droppings are the worst. In most cases they have actually etched into the clearcoat. In order to remove them you must be very aggressive and that means removing clearcoat. There are times they cannot be safely buffed out. Everytime you use any polishes with a PC you are removing some clearcoat. Any scratches that you can catch your nail in when you drag accross a scratch also can't be buffed out. Time for touchup. Good Luck!

RNBRAD

I wouldn't designate a scratch as not being able to be buffed out based on whether you can feel it with your nail or not. It's whether it's through the clear or not. There's many fine scratches can be easily wet sanded and buffed out using the proper steps. Most of the deeper scratches felt with a nail can as easily be buffed out after first using some stepped wet sanding techniques. If it's completely through the clear to the base coat, clear can be reapplied and left to dry then use a stepped wetsanding procedure to literally make a scratch invisible. I've not just done this with scratches but larger rock chips. There's plenty of instructional youtube video's on how to do it.