LFTW8S

Hi - hate to bring this up again but curious if anyone has this issue and has personally tried the following MB products:

A 010 989 12 71 - This is for the "Ducts" of the A/C system. The long multidirectional hose lets you get down into the "deep crannies" of the duct passages.

A 010 989 61 71 - This is for spraying the EVAPORATOR itself, IF the above cleaning doesn't resolve your musty odors... The nice thing about this product is that you DON'T have to rinse it off after application. It is typically sprayed directly onto Evaporator via the Evaporator Core Temperature Sensor Hole.

Please share "how to use" and if it worked.

Thanks in advance

mnje350

[QUOTE=LFTW8S;5258549]Hi - hate to bring this up again but curious if anyone has this issue and has personally tried the following MB products:

A 010 989 12 71 - This is for the "Ducts" of the A/C system. The long multidirectional hose lets you get down into the "deep crannies" of the duct passages.

A 010 989 61 71 - This is for spraying the EVAPORATOR itself, IF the above cleaning doesn't resolve your musty odors... The nice thing about this product is that you DON'T have to rinse it off after application. It is typically sprayed directly onto Evaporator via the Evaporator Core Temperature Sensor Hole.


Please share "how to use" and if it worked.

This issue came up in mine after about 11 months of ownership. Dealer cured it up by replacing the cabin filter. I doubt that it will be a long term fix. Now I try to run the system with the AC off occasionally to let the evap coils and ducts dry out once and a while. So far things have been ok. but we are not in the worst part of the humid season yet to see if things are better.

good luck

thekurgan

My musty odor was eliminated by just turning off the a/c about a mile from my destination where the car would sit for extended periods. Normalizing the temperature of the ducts and the coil area seems to be the permanent fix.

piper

Mine did the same thing after about 8 months. Dealer was able to fix mine with a cleaning a swap of filter. They asked that I turn AC off before I turned the car off to open a vent/duct to allow to dry out. Kind of crazy that this has to be done.

MCF

Live in Houston. Ours did it last year and is starting to do it again. Dealer claims not under warranty so I guess they are going to have to clean the ducts and replace cabin filter every years....for $300. What a joke. Just replacing the cabin filter doesn't do it - they have to 'clean out' the duct system and they claim it is not a warranty issue.

PHML

I had to do with with my Lexus....there is a spray can type mold cleaner/disinfectant...spray it into the vents at the base of the windshield wiper arms. Also replace the cabin air filters too.

PHML

You must have your Air Conditioning system checked once every two (2) years.


Above: This picture shows a core that is filled with mold.

If the core is leaking it must be replaced!

Above: Picture of a new core. An old core cannot be cleaned.


Above: Spray Disinfectant into the vent below the windshield to kill bacteria in the core.

Follow instructions on the can.

Caution: Make sure you have a spare key. Some vehicles lock the doors automatically when the engine is running!

Caution: Follow instructions and cautions on can. Do not inhale! No body can be in the car during treatment!

1) Close all windows

2) Start Engine. Caution: Make sure you have a spare key. Some vehicles lock the doors automatically when the engine is running!

3) Turn On Air-conditioning and place fan on Hi. Set circulation to fresh air. (Not to recycle or max.)



4) Above: Spray into intake vent below windshield. For Approx. 1 to 2 minutes.

5) Leave engine running for 15 minutes.

6) Turn off engine and open all windows.

7) Let car air out for 30 minutes.

RJC

+1 re the Lysol treatment and -1 re the having to turn off the AC before arriving home etc

thekurgan

I think it really depends on where you live, related to relative humidity and the varying degrees of temperature as well.

There's no way I'm shooting some chemical into the car when I can simply turn the damn thing off for 60 seconds, especially if I'm going to have to buy the chemical every X number of months

Live Oak

On a 2011 E550, if you have been running with AC and park the car, several minutes after parking a fan starts up automatically. The purpose is to dry the evaporator. Assumably, the delay is to be sure any possible ice has melted first. The fan runs for several minutes, rather quietly. I've never timed how long it runs.

Of course, we don't get smelly stuff here, where it is currently 98 degrees and 3 percent humidity. Yes, that's a 3.

RJC

I live in hot humid south Florida and have only run across this issue on a clk I owned and there was eventually a TSB issued for the evap drip pan not being angled to let all the condensation drain out properly. Spraying some Lysol into the fresh air intake is a simple solution to kill any build up but it shouldn't be there in the first place in a new/er car. Having to turn your AC off for any amount of time after every single use is simply absurd....something is not right.

thekurgan

Is that fan blowing air into the vehicle to dry the coils? I've never heard that sound. It's 90 today, I'll see if I hear it.

RobbieRob

I had a musty odor also, but I told the chick to get out at the next light. Problem solved......lol

Live Oak

It's at the outside air vent at the windshield passenger side. Sucks air in. It's very quiet. Comes on after a delay of several minutes.

Live Oak

Was that because of the wet spot?

RobbieRob

lol..

daniel_mtl

THANKS!

First time, the result was good.

Although second time around, I found it more effective to remove the Cabin Air Filter and use a -Medium- setting instead of high setting on the fan.

More of the disinfectant got to the evaporator without just passing by, killing more bacteria after letting it sit for 30 minutes.

Removing the Cabin filter also avoided too much of the irritating Lysol smell to be stuck in the car.

I think the outside air passes by the filter first, i could be wrong...

I got around to changing the cabin air filter and now it's perfect...

dwright10

The 2014 Owner's Manual indicates that after sitting 1 hour the 'humidity fan' will run for 30 minutes. My question: If the AC has been shut off before turning off the car, will the fan still run? Or, must the AC be on when shutting down in order for the fan to run? The manual is a bit ambiguous. Thanks

BenzV12

Thanks for your bringing this up , I always shut down the A/C before turning off the car and let the car idle about 30 secs - 1 mins before doing it .
So, each time I have to press one of the A/C unit buttons to get it turned on but I believe this should be preventing A/C fan from turning and if this is the case this should tell why LiveOak has suffered from battery drains

PHML

Im glad it worked out for you.

I did this years ago on my Lexus GS300....and its been good ever since.

Pete

wedge357

I know this is an old thread but just to help out my fellow W212 owners. I have a 2011 E550 Sports sedan that was starting to give out that dirty sock smell the first few minutes the AC runs. I read a bunch of postings regarding this issue but can't seem to find one that explain how to get rid of the smell ala dealer (using foam cleaner/deodorizer) directly onto the AC evaporator. I bought Einzeitt Klima-Cleaner online and decided to tackle the problem head-on. The general consensus is to get as close as possible to the evaporator. Although the cleaner can be applied supposedly through the front vents I discovered that this is not a viable option in the W212 due to the actuated flaps and such that gets in the way of getting the tube close to the evaporator. I decided instead to remove my AC pollen filter under the passenger footwell and in doing so exposes the intake that leads directly to the evaporator. You could actually see the pipe as it leads forward and central towards the evaporator. I then ran my cleaner tubing in as far as it would go and emptied the can in there. After about half hr I started the car and turned the AC full blast. The air smelled good for now with a hint of citrus. I'll post more later after I gave it a few days to see if the bad smell return.

wedge357

FYI. I also kept the tubing afterwards in case the smell returns. I'll use it with a can of Lysol next time.

BeachBunny

I hit this problem on a family member's W203 in Florida. The main problem was that they always ran the AC on recirc, thus when the car was shut off the damp coil just sat there with no ventilation whatsoever. A little Lysol and educating them on leaving the recirc off has kept the problem away ever since.

wedge357

Not necessarily the driver's fault. I live in Florida myself. When you get in the hot car and drive off the in the middle of the day the Auto function of the AC will place it on Recirc mode for maximum cooling effect. Unless you drive long enough to get the interior temperature stabilized it will remain in that mode when you arrive at your destination. This then leads to the problem you described. The only solution is to manually operate the AC which is kinda stupid for a $50k+ car.

BeachBunny

Are you sure on that? I don't have a W212 yet, but on several cars I've owned the recirc vent automatically is opened upon turning off the ignition. I know my M45 does the auto recirc, but there's never an indication on the dash when it automatically closes the damper.