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- Mercedes-Benz E-Class: How to Replace Cabin Air Filter
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
How to Replace Cabin Air Filter - W212
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
How to Replace Cabin Air Filter - W212
Hi All,
Just got done replacing the cabin filter with a little help from one of the threads on here. Thought I would post a more detailed "how to". Its easy, relatively quick, so don't pay someone to do it.
Tools needed:
Torx T25 screwdriver
needle nose pliers
flat head screw driver (optional to help pry "c" clamps)
The cabin air filter is located in the passenger footwell right above your left foot if you were sitting in the passenger seat. To access it, just remove the cabin trim right below the glove box:
1. remove (3) Torx T25 screws right along the bottom of the glove box hinge area
2. Carefully pull the trim down from the front. Don't pull all the way because you need to disconnect 2 wires first before fully removing it.
3. Use needle nose pliers or if you have dextrous fingers, carefully remove the footwell light connector on the right, then the left hand side is a sensor of some sort. Remove that too.
4. Once both wires are removed, carefully move the cabin trim down further and lift it out. It will be tucked behind the forward footwell carpet.
5. Once out, you will notice a white sliding plastic connector on the bottom of the cabin filter. The filter sits vertically with the squared off plastic at the bottom and it is roughly at a 45 degree angle to the center console.
6. Slide the plastic piece toward you until it releases.
7. Now you have to remove 2 small "C" clamps on each end of the filter before you slide it out. These 2 small metal clamps might need a little coaxing so carefully use a flat head screwdriver to loosen them. Be careful not to bend them, just pop them off. Also, careful with the rear clamp so that it doesn't pop off and go down behind the carpet.
8. Now you can easily slide the filter out. Just pull it straight down.
9. Remove the sliding plastic white piece and put it on the new filter.
Ok Time to reverse the process and finish up!
10. Slide the new filter in and slide the plastic white connector to secure the filter.
11. Replace the "C" clamps.
12. Now the filter is secured, put the cabin trim back in. Tuck it behind the carpet, and push it up.
13. Reconnect the footwell light and sensor wires. Close the door once to test the light.
14. Push the trim back up and screw in the (3) torx screws.
And you are done! Turn the car on, run the A/C to test.
Just got done replacing the cabin filter with a little help from one of the threads on here. Thought I would post a more detailed "how to". Its easy, relatively quick, so don't pay someone to do it.
Tools needed:
Torx T25 screwdriver
needle nose pliers
flat head screw driver (optional to help pry "c" clamps)
The cabin air filter is located in the passenger footwell right above your left foot if you were sitting in the passenger seat. To access it, just remove the cabin trim right below the glove box:
1. remove (3) Torx T25 screws right along the bottom of the glove box hinge area
2. Carefully pull the trim down from the front. Don't pull all the way because you need to disconnect 2 wires first before fully removing it.
3. Use needle nose pliers or if you have dextrous fingers, carefully remove the footwell light connector on the right, then the left hand side is a sensor of some sort. Remove that too.
4. Once both wires are removed, carefully move the cabin trim down further and lift it out. It will be tucked behind the forward footwell carpet.
5. Once out, you will notice a white sliding plastic connector on the bottom of the cabin filter. The filter sits vertically with the squared off plastic at the bottom and it is roughly at a 45 degree angle to the center console.
6. Slide the plastic piece toward you until it releases.
7. Now you have to remove 2 small "C" clamps on each end of the filter before you slide it out. These 2 small metal clamps might need a little coaxing so carefully use a flat head screwdriver to loosen them. Be careful not to bend them, just pop them off. Also, careful with the rear clamp so that it doesn't pop off and go down behind the carpet.
8. Now you can easily slide the filter out. Just pull it straight down.
9. Remove the sliding plastic white piece and put it on the new filter.
Ok Time to reverse the process and finish up!
10. Slide the new filter in and slide the plastic white connector to secure the filter.
11. Replace the "C" clamps.
12. Now the filter is secured, put the cabin trim back in. Tuck it behind the carpet, and push it up.
13. Reconnect the footwell light and sensor wires. Close the door once to test the light.
14. Push the trim back up and screw in the (3) torx screws.
And you are done! Turn the car on, run the A/C to test.
The following 2 users liked this post by vegasCorp:
DonnyGT (12-29-2021),
rey_winslow (04-22-2018)
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thanks for tyhe write up ,pics would be great but thanks anyway on behalf of others who like to tacke such DIY jobs
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Southeastern USA
Posts: 2,581
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2010 E350 Luxury Sedan, Engine 272 (V6)
Amazing how complicated MB made it and the Americans and Asians have been making it a one simple or no tool, 10 minute tops project for over a decade.
Over-engineered?
Over-engineered?
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
It is a pain in the *** to change. You need to really push hard in an upward direction on it to get it to seat while locking the clip. If you have any whistle noise in your cabin it will be a lose cabin filter. MB has had this dumb design for at least 10 years. My '04 E500 was the same.
#6
Super Member
El Cid: This is nothing compared to changing a headlight bulb on an Infiniti... which involves removing the entire front bumper cover, grille, wheel well cover, a few mechanical components, the entire headlight assembly. THEN you can change the bulb and try to put everything back together. It's about a 2.5 hr job.
I don't know that changing the E-Class air filter is all that bad. Step-wise it's no more complicated than changing the air filter in my Infiniti, which is located in the glove box, but requires removing the glove box, cassette deck, a few wiring harnesses, etc. What makes this job a pain on the E-Class is the location. Trying to work on anything in the footwell generally sucks. Still simpler than changing it on my M45 though.
I don't know that changing the E-Class air filter is all that bad. Step-wise it's no more complicated than changing the air filter in my Infiniti, which is located in the glove box, but requires removing the glove box, cassette deck, a few wiring harnesses, etc. What makes this job a pain on the E-Class is the location. Trying to work on anything in the footwell generally sucks. Still simpler than changing it on my M45 though.
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Buy the improved Mann design filter with the foam seating element instead of the compression flap. Your whistle will be gone. I can't stand driving a luxury car with noises like that.
#9
The one I got was cuk 29 005 by Mann filter, is there a different one? Could you give me the part number so I know which one to get next time? I've learned to deal with it but know what you mean, it's annoying and really shouldn't be there. I'll probably change it again before warm a/c weather comes back. The moldy smell is also a bit embarrassing.
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
CUK 29 005 charcoal is the one I use as well. You really need to push hard to compress the foam and lock it into place.
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
The cabin filter is on the B schedule, so every 20K miles. I usually do it on that schedule which for me is bi-annually. It is the only filter now, so if you want to change it more regularly due to a harsh environment (dust) I would do it. In the past there were two filters, side by side at the glove box and then an additional one at the intake in the engine bay, so maybe the protection was better.
#13
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Northwest Illinois
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2014 E350 also restored: 1969 Camaro convertible SS 1957 Chevy Belair 2dr hardtop
Thanks. That means I will not have to change it for about 7 years. I put about 2 to 3,000 a year on the car
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
Ha! I would still do it every two years. I assume(hope) you at least change your oil annually.
#16
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2014
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2014 E350 also restored: 1969 Camaro convertible SS 1957 Chevy Belair 2dr hardtop
CAR IS ALMOST A YEAR OLD AND HAS ALMOST 2,000 iT WILL GO IN AFTER THE 1ST OF THE YEAR FOR ITS 1ST OIL CHANGE.
#18
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 666
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2014 E350 Wagon
I did the replacement on mine at 30K after 10 months. It was pretty painless, except for putting the small clips back on. The parts guy told me most don't even bother with putting them back on but as **** as I am, I did anyway.
#19
Newbie
Road debris hit my headlight passenger headlight broke the clear plastic outer lens can replace the entire assembly myself? This is on a 2011 E350 4 door sedan. Thanks!
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
Cabin Air Filters
Hi All,
Just got done replacing the cabin filter with a little help from one of the threads on here. Thought I would post a more detailed "how to". Its easy, relatively quick, so don't pay someone to do it.
Tools needed:
Torx T25 screwdriver
needle nose pliers
flat head screw driver (optional to help pry "c" clamps)
The cabin air filter is located in the passenger footwell right above your left foot if you were sitting in the passenger seat. To access it, just remove the cabin trim right below the glove box:
1. remove (3) Torx T25 screws right along the bottom of the glove box hinge area
2. Carefully pull the trim down from the front. Don't pull all the way because you need to disconnect 2 wires first before fully removing it.
3. Use needle nose pliers or if you have dextrous fingers, carefully remove the footwell light connector on the right, then the left hand side is a sensor of some sort. Remove that too.
4. Once both wires are removed, carefully move the cabin trim down further and lift it out. It will be tucked behind the forward footwell carpet.
5. Once out, you will notice a white sliding plastic connector on the bottom of the cabin filter. The filter sits vertically with the squared off plastic at the bottom and it is roughly at a 45 degree angle to the center console.
6. Slide the plastic piece toward you until it releases.
7. Now you have to remove 2 small "C" clamps on each end of the filter before you slide it out. These 2 small metal clamps might need a little coaxing so carefully use a flat head screwdriver to loosen them. Be careful not to bend them, just pop them off. Also, careful with the rear clamp so that it doesn't pop off and go down behind the carpet.
8. Now you can easily slide the filter out. Just pull it straight down.
9. Remove the sliding plastic white piece and put it on the new filter.
Ok Time to reverse the process and finish up!
10. Slide the new filter in and slide the plastic white connector to secure the filter.
11. Replace the "C" clamps.
12. Now the filter is secured, put the cabin trim back in. Tuck it behind the carpet, and push it up.
13. Reconnect the footwell light and sensor wires. Close the door once to test the light.
14. Push the trim back up and screw in the (3) torx screws.
And you are done! Turn the car on, run the A/C to test.
Just got done replacing the cabin filter with a little help from one of the threads on here. Thought I would post a more detailed "how to". Its easy, relatively quick, so don't pay someone to do it.
Tools needed:
Torx T25 screwdriver
needle nose pliers
flat head screw driver (optional to help pry "c" clamps)
The cabin air filter is located in the passenger footwell right above your left foot if you were sitting in the passenger seat. To access it, just remove the cabin trim right below the glove box:
1. remove (3) Torx T25 screws right along the bottom of the glove box hinge area
2. Carefully pull the trim down from the front. Don't pull all the way because you need to disconnect 2 wires first before fully removing it.
3. Use needle nose pliers or if you have dextrous fingers, carefully remove the footwell light connector on the right, then the left hand side is a sensor of some sort. Remove that too.
4. Once both wires are removed, carefully move the cabin trim down further and lift it out. It will be tucked behind the forward footwell carpet.
5. Once out, you will notice a white sliding plastic connector on the bottom of the cabin filter. The filter sits vertically with the squared off plastic at the bottom and it is roughly at a 45 degree angle to the center console.
6. Slide the plastic piece toward you until it releases.
7. Now you have to remove 2 small "C" clamps on each end of the filter before you slide it out. These 2 small metal clamps might need a little coaxing so carefully use a flat head screwdriver to loosen them. Be careful not to bend them, just pop them off. Also, careful with the rear clamp so that it doesn't pop off and go down behind the carpet.
8. Now you can easily slide the filter out. Just pull it straight down.
9. Remove the sliding plastic white piece and put it on the new filter.
Ok Time to reverse the process and finish up!
10. Slide the new filter in and slide the plastic white connector to secure the filter.
11. Replace the "C" clamps.
12. Now the filter is secured, put the cabin trim back in. Tuck it behind the carpet, and push it up.
13. Reconnect the footwell light and sensor wires. Close the door once to test the light.
14. Push the trim back up and screw in the (3) torx screws.
And you are done! Turn the car on, run the A/C to test.
My dealer wanted $61 CDN after club discount for the OEM filter. A MANN at the local parts guys was $30.
What I don't get is why MB cannot design their HVAC systems to make this a simple job. Even the techs ***** about how awkward it is working in a black hole at the end of your reach upside down and over your head. Must be to generate labour dollars on top of exorbitant parts prices.
And those two stupid metal clips one of which is over a hole in the sheet metal? Give me a break!
I put duct tape over the hole while I was working on things.
I am going to suggest to their product people at MBC in Toronto they send somebody over to their local Toyota dealer and see what a 5 minute fiddle it is to change the cabin filter on a Matrix.
Off to the Chiropractor to get my back straight!
#23
Thanks VegasCorp
Great DIY. I'm 58 and partially disabled and had no trouble at all. I did replace the small C clamps; I noticed the end snugged in tighter when I did. The one further away went on in one snap too. Easy job.
#25
I didnt notice if any one added that the connector on the duct temp sensor (the connector on your left when lowering the kick panel) is very fragile. Dont pull it by its wires or the pins will break.