W212 amp install, sub to come.
#26
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#28
if i use this http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/rfi2sw
i can connect both rca's to the one set of signal wires correct? shields to ground and center pins to both white and brown signal wires?
Last edited by nhoj_yelbom; 06-01-2014 at 01:14 AM.
#29
#30
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2010 S550 2011 E350 2000 CLK320 convertible 2004 SL500
looks great! Is that the sub amp? or is there just the one? sorry...gathering info still, haven't actually looked for myself..lol
is the signal clean?
is the signal clean?
#31
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E350 ml350
I second that. As an ex iasca competitor from many moons ago running Alpine, a/d/s, Phoenix gold, etc.....I love reading these posts. I remember building glass covered amp racks with parametric eq's......all motorized with windshield wiper motors and such....."mainly because the actuator market really hadn't kicked off yet.
It is sad to see that market went by the wayside. While we definitely had our share of SPL competitions, there was also a dedicated amount of us looking for sound quality. Funny thing is, all the speaker placement in the dash and a pillars that took all kinds of custom fiberglass work.....now comes stock on even a ford focus!
Hats off to RMBRAD for keeping us in the loop on his progress. Make it stealth. Make that box dead. Totally dead!
It is sad to see that market went by the wayside. While we definitely had our share of SPL competitions, there was also a dedicated amount of us looking for sound quality. Funny thing is, all the speaker placement in the dash and a pillars that took all kinds of custom fiberglass work.....now comes stock on even a ford focus!
Hats off to RMBRAD for keeping us in the loop on his progress. Make it stealth. Make that box dead. Totally dead!
#32
Yeah, I too miss the older audio component. I worked for Alpine back in the Mid 80's and then for speaker works when we were doing in dash wave guide stuff.
I still have my old school Alpine 7909, still to this day the best CD player ever built with burr brown dacs and some older Alpine 3559 amps.
Loved the older PPI stuff and even still have some old Soundstream. None of the newer stuff competes anymore in the interest of budgets and offshore chinese mfr.
But supposedly we are moving forward...mmm well..
Good Article guys, Im gonna put in my small Diamond Audio 10 and Amp in a small .75cuft enclosure in the rear this week and Ill let you all know how it works out
I still have my old school Alpine 7909, still to this day the best CD player ever built with burr brown dacs and some older Alpine 3559 amps.
Loved the older PPI stuff and even still have some old Soundstream. None of the newer stuff competes anymore in the interest of budgets and offshore chinese mfr.
But supposedly we are moving forward...mmm well..
Good Article guys, Im gonna put in my small Diamond Audio 10 and Amp in a small .75cuft enclosure in the rear this week and Ill let you all know how it works out
#34
Hi there!
I'm wondering if you might have a solution to my problem. Please check my recently created thread for e-class Mercedes. Maybe i could take all power from the rear battery?
Regards smurfen82
I'm wondering if you might have a solution to my problem. Please check my recently created thread for e-class Mercedes. Maybe i could take all power from the rear battery?
Regards smurfen82
#35
if anyone decides to help you they will respond, must not thread jack someone. sounds like your install is screwed....
#36
Junior Member
need to upgrade my sub also..
I saw on a custom stereo website a thread where the guy just replaced the factory sub with a 10" Kicker to upgrade along with adding a sub amp. I'd like to do the same to save trunk space, etc. Do you all this would work or is going with a sealed box still going to be the best bang for the buck?
#38
I dont know about just replacing the rear shelf subwoofer. The 2014 eclass has an oval subwoofer opening I believe and there will be cutting involved. The speaker will also need to be free air and preferably flat. Since free air subs need less power, I would ask a reputable shop about testing it with just the factory amp first before going with a dedicated amp. I replaced the 8" subs under the seats on my bmw with some 8" earthquake subs and it made a huge difference even with the factory amp running it.
#39
Junior Member
I dont know about just replacing the rear shelf subwoofer. The 2014 eclass has an oval subwoofer opening I believe and there will be cutting involved. The speaker will also need to be free air and preferably flat. Since free air subs need less power, I would ask a reputable shop about testing it with just the factory amp first before going with a dedicated amp. I replaced the 8" subs under the seats on my bmw with some 8" earthquake subs and it made a huge difference even with the factory amp running it.
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Roafstar01 (04-06-2020)
#40
Super Member
I do have an update for anyone interested in doing the same thing. Instead of grabbing the signal after the amp there is some low level 6v signals going into the amp. They are the very small brown and white wires on the rear amp plug. Oh man it's sounds a lot better. I tapped into my input signal from there right into an RCA then plugged into the amp. There is also a turn on signal which is the medium sized either dark blue or black wire. It's 12v when stereo is turned on. Very simple, everything is right there. I did all the work so now you guys will have it easy.
Here's the sub install link: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post5399827
Here's the sub install link: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post5399827
This part has me a bit puzzled and is the last piece of my install!!! (tapping signal+12v when on.
I have found the small 6v plugs at the amp going in. I presume these are for the +/- which would go to the line out converter. Which is which? Logic is telling me the brown is - and white is + but I don't want to do that wrong.
Second, are the two 12v wires you mention also the smaller 12v ones?
#41
This part has me a bit puzzled and is the last piece of my install!!! (tapping signal+12v when on.
I have found the small 6v plugs at the amp going in. I presume these are for the +/- which would go to the line out converter. Which is which? Logic is telling me the brown is - and white is + but I don't want to do that wrong.
Second, are the two 12v wires you mention also the smaller 12v ones?
I have found the small 6v plugs at the amp going in. I presume these are for the +/- which would go to the line out converter. Which is which? Logic is telling me the brown is - and white is + but I don't want to do that wrong.
Second, are the two 12v wires you mention also the smaller 12v ones?
Top right in pic
#42
Super Member
You dont use a line out converter. You attach one rca to the signal wires at factory amp and then split at aftermarket amp. Rockford fosgate and many others have rcas with bare wire on one end or you can cut a regular rca. The 12v turn on is also there its a small black wire adjacent to the yellow and brown signal wires
Top right in pic
Top right in pic
I have no issue cutting up the RCA I have and frankly like the idea a lot more than a line out converter (I wouldn't be using a high end one and feel it is the weak link in my setup).
when you say run one RCA and split at amp, could you elaborate a bit? RCA has two plugs and I did notice you only ran one RCA from where you soldered into your amp. Is the brown or the white wire the positive or negative?
I greatly appreciate your responses and help on this. You're saving my night for sure!
#43
Awesome. 12v is covered….
I have no issue cutting up the RCA I have and frankly like the idea a lot more than a line out converter (I wouldn't be using a high end one and feel it is the weak link in my setup).
when you say run one RCA and split at amp, could you elaborate a bit? RCA has two plugs and I did notice you only ran one RCA from where you soldered into your amp. Is the brown or the white wire the positive or negative?
I greatly appreciate your responses and help on this. You're saving my night for sure!
I have no issue cutting up the RCA I have and frankly like the idea a lot more than a line out converter (I wouldn't be using a high end one and feel it is the weak link in my setup).
when you say run one RCA and split at amp, could you elaborate a bit? RCA has two plugs and I did notice you only ran one RCA from where you soldered into your amp. Is the brown or the white wire the positive or negative?
I greatly appreciate your responses and help on this. You're saving my night for sure!
Outer ring on rca is ground and goes to brown
Only have one signal on factory amp, most aftermarkets have two rca signal inputs and most need both connected. They sell splitters one female with two male to plug in to amp
#44
Super Member
Center pin for rca goes to yellow or white and is positive
Outer ring on rca is ground and goes to brown
Only have one signal on factory amp, most aftermarkets have two rca signal inputs and most need both connected. They sell splitters one female with two male to plug in to amp
Outer ring on rca is ground and goes to brown
Only have one signal on factory amp, most aftermarkets have two rca signal inputs and most need both connected. They sell splitters one female with two male to plug in to amp
Ok…. black = trigger wire
6v small white= Positive= center pin
6v brown = Negative = outer on rca.
You're a rockstar! I' ended up taping into the post amp speaker wires for the sub but will rework it tomorrow as this seems like the cleaner and better sounding option.
I literally just need to find a 12v constant source right now for the line out converter and I'm done. It will be interesting to compare the 2 options side by side as I will be able to switch between them and pick the best result to report back!
Thank you! Hero!
#45
That makes sense!
Ok…. black = trigger wire
6v small white= Positive= center pin
6v brown = Negative = outer on rca.
You're a rockstar! I' ended up taping into the post amp speaker wires for the sub but will rework it tomorrow as this seems like the cleaner and better sounding option.
I literally just need to find a 12v constant source right now for the line out converter and I'm done. It will be interesting to compare the 2 options side by side as I will be able to switch between them and pick the best result to report back!
Thank you! Hero!
Ok…. black = trigger wire
6v small white= Positive= center pin
6v brown = Negative = outer on rca.
You're a rockstar! I' ended up taping into the post amp speaker wires for the sub but will rework it tomorrow as this seems like the cleaner and better sounding option.
I literally just need to find a 12v constant source right now for the line out converter and I'm done. It will be interesting to compare the 2 options side by side as I will be able to switch between them and pick the best result to report back!
Thank you! Hero!
#46
Anyone have a wiring diagram for that plug on the signal side of the amp? I need to tap the low-level signals (front high/mid/low & subwoofer signals, specifically) for my Helix DSP Pro...
#47
#48
You are awesome. I ended up buying a Mobridge to replace the factory amp and run optical all the way through to a Helix DSP Pro, but this diagram and voltage values will be very helpful.
My subwoofer plan snowballed into a full front stage and subwoofer replacement project.... I'll post details when I find time to dive into it!
My subwoofer plan snowballed into a full front stage and subwoofer replacement project.... I'll post details when I find time to dive into it!
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Roafstar01 (03-13-2020)
#49
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2012 CLS550
nhoj_yelbom, where do the wiring diagrams you have provided come from? I have been looking for something for my 2012 CLS 550 but have been unsuccessful. I signed up for AllDataDIY but that was pretty much worthless lol. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Regards,
DP
Regards,
DP
#50
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'71 Pinto
Try this: http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html - wiring diagrams - interior & driver amenity – entertainment