E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550

W212 amp install, sub to come.

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Old 05-23-2014, 03:00 PM
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W211 E320 & W212 E550
Originally Posted by juliana21
My set up sounds ridiculous, thanks to RNBRAD

JL 13.5w3v3 Sealed Box
JL 500/1v3
Glad it went well, been wondering how it sounds.
Old 05-25-2014, 04:29 AM
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13 E350 4MATIC
Your Car looks brand new. NICE!!!
Old 05-26-2014, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by nhoj_yelbom
thanks! i think im going to try a JL audio 10W6 prowedge in mine. hope it will sound good
now a 10w7..

if i use this http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/rfi2sw
i can connect both rca's to the one set of signal wires correct? shields to ground and center pins to both white and brown signal wires?

Last edited by nhoj_yelbom; 06-01-2014 at 01:14 AM.
Old 06-01-2014, 01:20 AM
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anyone?

even better spot to access the wires is at driver side amp N40/3. i used one rca for signal split to both rca's on amp. all wires needed are easier to get to there, and my amp is mounted right there. is anyone unplugging the factory sub?






Last edited by nhoj_yelbom; 06-10-2014 at 02:26 AM.
Old 08-29-2014, 10:04 PM
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2010 S550 2011 E350 2000 CLK320 convertible 2004 SL500
looks great! Is that the sub amp? or is there just the one? sorry...gathering info still, haven't actually looked for myself..lol
is the signal clean?
Old 08-29-2014, 11:33 PM
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E350 ml350
I second that. As an ex iasca competitor from many moons ago running Alpine, a/d/s, Phoenix gold, etc.....I love reading these posts. I remember building glass covered amp racks with parametric eq's......all motorized with windshield wiper motors and such....."mainly because the actuator market really hadn't kicked off yet.

It is sad to see that market went by the wayside. While we definitely had our share of SPL competitions, there was also a dedicated amount of us looking for sound quality. Funny thing is, all the speaker placement in the dash and a pillars that took all kinds of custom fiberglass work.....now comes stock on even a ford focus!

Hats off to RMBRAD for keeping us in the loop on his progress. Make it stealth. Make that box dead. Totally dead!
Old 10-28-2014, 11:47 PM
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w212 E550
Yeah, I too miss the older audio component. I worked for Alpine back in the Mid 80's and then for speaker works when we were doing in dash wave guide stuff.

I still have my old school Alpine 7909, still to this day the best CD player ever built with burr brown dacs and some older Alpine 3559 amps.

Loved the older PPI stuff and even still have some old Soundstream. None of the newer stuff competes anymore in the interest of budgets and offshore chinese mfr.

But supposedly we are moving forward...mmm well..

Good Article guys, Im gonna put in my small Diamond Audio 10 and Amp in a small .75cuft enclosure in the rear this week and Ill let you all know how it works out
Old 12-07-2014, 01:34 PM
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2011 e350
What color wires are speaker (-) and (+) having trouble getting my high low converter installed
Old 06-15-2015, 04:49 PM
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w212
Hi there!
I'm wondering if you might have a solution to my problem. Please check my recently created thread for e-class Mercedes. Maybe i could take all power from the rear battery?
Regards smurfen82
Old 06-15-2015, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by smurfen82
Hi there!
I'm wondering if you might have a solution to my problem. Please check my recently created thread for e-class Mercedes. Maybe i could take all power from the rear battery?
Regards smurfen82
if anyone decides to help you they will respond, must not thread jack someone. sounds like your install is screwed....
Old 07-15-2015, 02:29 PM
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2012 E350 4Matic Sedan
need to upgrade my sub also..

I saw on a custom stereo website a thread where the guy just replaced the factory sub with a 10" Kicker to upgrade along with adding a sub amp. I'd like to do the same to save trunk space, etc. Do you all this would work or is going with a sealed box still going to be the best bang for the buck?
Old 07-15-2015, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by juliana21
My set up sounds ridiculous, thanks to RNBRAD

JL 13.5w3v3 Sealed Box
JL 500/1v3
Can NEVER go wrong with JL!
Old 07-15-2015, 10:48 PM
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I dont know about just replacing the rear shelf subwoofer. The 2014 eclass has an oval subwoofer opening I believe and there will be cutting involved. The speaker will also need to be free air and preferably flat. Since free air subs need less power, I would ask a reputable shop about testing it with just the factory amp first before going with a dedicated amp. I replaced the 8" subs under the seats on my bmw with some 8" earthquake subs and it made a huge difference even with the factory amp running it.
Old 07-16-2015, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ph350
I dont know about just replacing the rear shelf subwoofer. The 2014 eclass has an oval subwoofer opening I believe and there will be cutting involved. The speaker will also need to be free air and preferably flat. Since free air subs need less power, I would ask a reputable shop about testing it with just the factory amp first before going with a dedicated amp. I replaced the 8" subs under the seats on my bmw with some 8" earthquake subs and it made a huge difference even with the factory amp running it.
I have a 2012 E350 4Matic if it matters. I don't have fold-down rear seats so would I get less impact if I install a "regular" sealed box enclosure somewhere in the back? I'd love to see some pictures from those of you who have completed your projects.
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Old 07-18-2015, 10:06 PM
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2010 E550 4Matic Sport P2
Originally Posted by RNBRAD
I do have an update for anyone interested in doing the same thing. Instead of grabbing the signal after the amp there is some low level 6v signals going into the amp. They are the very small brown and white wires on the rear amp plug. Oh man it's sounds a lot better. I tapped into my input signal from there right into an RCA then plugged into the amp. There is also a turn on signal which is the medium sized either dark blue or black wire. It's 12v when stereo is turned on. Very simple, everything is right there. I did all the work so now you guys will have it easy.

Here's the sub install link: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post5399827

This part has me a bit puzzled and is the last piece of my install!!! (tapping signal+12v when on.

I have found the small 6v plugs at the amp going in. I presume these are for the +/- which would go to the line out converter. Which is which? Logic is telling me the brown is - and white is + but I don't want to do that wrong.

Second, are the two 12v wires you mention also the smaller 12v ones?
Old 07-18-2015, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Abrown3mtg
This part has me a bit puzzled and is the last piece of my install!!! (tapping signal+12v when on.

I have found the small 6v plugs at the amp going in. I presume these are for the +/- which would go to the line out converter. Which is which? Logic is telling me the brown is - and white is + but I don't want to do that wrong.

Second, are the two 12v wires you mention also the smaller 12v ones?
You dont use a line out converter. You attach one rca to the signal wires at factory amp and then split at aftermarket amp. Rockford fosgate and many others have rcas with bare wire on one end or you can cut a regular rca. The 12v turn on is also there its a small black wire adjacent to the yellow and brown signal wires

Top right in pic
Old 07-18-2015, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by nhoj_yelbom
You dont use a line out converter. You attach one rca to the signal wires at factory amp and then split at aftermarket amp. Rockford fosgate and many others have rcas with bare wire on one end or you can cut a regular rca. The 12v turn on is also there its a small black wire adjacent to the yellow and brown signal wires

Top right in pic
Awesome. 12v is covered….

I have no issue cutting up the RCA I have and frankly like the idea a lot more than a line out converter (I wouldn't be using a high end one and feel it is the weak link in my setup).

when you say run one RCA and split at amp, could you elaborate a bit? RCA has two plugs and I did notice you only ran one RCA from where you soldered into your amp. Is the brown or the white wire the positive or negative?

I greatly appreciate your responses and help on this. You're saving my night for sure!
Old 07-18-2015, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Abrown3mtg
Awesome. 12v is covered….

I have no issue cutting up the RCA I have and frankly like the idea a lot more than a line out converter (I wouldn't be using a high end one and feel it is the weak link in my setup).

when you say run one RCA and split at amp, could you elaborate a bit? RCA has two plugs and I did notice you only ran one RCA from where you soldered into your amp. Is the brown or the white wire the positive or negative?

I greatly appreciate your responses and help on this. You're saving my night for sure!
Center pin for rca goes to yellow or white and is positive

Outer ring on rca is ground and goes to brown

Only have one signal on factory amp, most aftermarkets have two rca signal inputs and most need both connected. They sell splitters one female with two male to plug in to amp
Old 07-18-2015, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by nhoj_yelbom
Center pin for rca goes to yellow or white and is positive

Outer ring on rca is ground and goes to brown

Only have one signal on factory amp, most aftermarkets have two rca signal inputs and most need both connected. They sell splitters one female with two male to plug in to amp
That makes sense!

Ok…. black = trigger wire
6v small white= Positive= center pin
6v brown = Negative = outer on rca.

You're a rockstar! I' ended up taping into the post amp speaker wires for the sub but will rework it tomorrow as this seems like the cleaner and better sounding option.

I literally just need to find a 12v constant source right now for the line out converter and I'm done. It will be interesting to compare the 2 options side by side as I will be able to switch between them and pick the best result to report back!

Thank you! Hero!
Old 07-18-2015, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Abrown3mtg
That makes sense!

Ok…. black = trigger wire
6v small white= Positive= center pin
6v brown = Negative = outer on rca.

You're a rockstar! I' ended up taping into the post amp speaker wires for the sub but will rework it tomorrow as this seems like the cleaner and better sounding option.

I literally just need to find a 12v constant source right now for the line out converter and I'm done. It will be interesting to compare the 2 options side by side as I will be able to switch between them and pick the best result to report back!

Thank you! Hero!
No problem. I just swapped to 10 550 from my 10 350, did my sub install again just last week same as before.
Old 08-12-2015, 01:42 AM
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Anyone have a wiring diagram for that plug on the signal side of the amp? I need to tap the low-level signals (front high/mid/low & subwoofer signals, specifically) for my Helix DSP Pro...
Old 08-19-2015, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BBLV
Anyone have a wiring diagram for that plug on the signal side of the amp? I need to tap the low-level signals (front high/mid/low & subwoofer signals, specifically) for my Helix DSP Pro...
here
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
WebETM Model 212.pdf (825.4 KB, 945 views)
Old 08-19-2015, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by nhoj_yelbom
here
You are awesome. I ended up buying a Mobridge to replace the factory amp and run optical all the way through to a Helix DSP Pro, but this diagram and voltage values will be very helpful.

My subwoofer plan snowballed into a full front stage and subwoofer replacement project.... I'll post details when I find time to dive into it!
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by nhoj_yelbom
here
nhoj_yelbom, where do the wiring diagrams you have provided come from? I have been looking for something for my 2012 CLS 550 but have been unsuccessful. I signed up for AllDataDIY but that was pretty much worthless lol. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Regards,

DP
Old 09-23-2015, 12:48 PM
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Try this: http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html - wiring diagrams - interior & driver amenity – entertainment


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