Originally Posted by konigstiger

Try this: http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html - wiring diagrams - interior & driver amenity – entertainment

Originally Posted by RNBRAD

Well the time has come to add some low bass. I haven't purchased audio gear in quite some time so I was carefull with my selection as much has changed and old school high end equipments is mediocre at best. Not all but most have sold out to cheaper companies. Alpine is one of the few that has remained unchanged so I went with a D class MRX-M100 1000watt sub amp. I have a Image Dynamics Q series V3D2 12" sub on the way. I will have pics of it soon. I'm doing a relatively basic and clean install, nothing too fancy which I almost went all out and built a wall and I even ordered the actuator, magnetic switches and remote LEDS for the amp rack but wife talked me out of it.
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Originally Posted by RobbieRob

No kidding, wow. My stereo fascination goes back from 1989 until 2002, so things are so different now. I actually liked a lot of Rockford Fosgate stuff back then also, along with JL subs. I used alot of Pheonix Gold amps, really liked them, but I think they were done when I was getting out of it. If I do a sub and amp in my car, I really have to do some homework.

Originally Posted by RNBRAD

I'll just build it myself. I already bought carpet that's an almost exact match to the trunk and I may use a little vinyl and personalize it. Your box numbers are dead on. I like to build my own and make them perfectly sealed and deadened with spray liner. A good built box makes all the difference in the world, especially when using multiple subs but just a single in my case.

I love plexiglas too. Just finished CNCing a 3/4 black lexan piece for my truck dash that houses my amp temp gauges, real trick. It was originally a clear lexan piece back painted with the gauges mounted behind the unit but the lexan started crazing (stress crack from age) and it drove me crazy. That's what I did here but used real glass for my equipment rack. This is mounted in the headliner of my single cab truck. Sorry only pics I have access to from work.

Originally Posted by RNBRAD

I've been a devoted kicker sub user for 23yrs, was a member of the KCG (kicker competition group) in the 90's cause of the success I had on the competition circuit using their subs. Just really a well balanced sub. I have a kicker square in my Civic and to me it's an average performer. To me subs are like a cars suspension, the softer the ride the worse the handling, less you have adj air ride. Same thing with a speaker, you stiffen up the suspension for power handling, you lose that quick response needed for sq. It's hard to have the best of both worlds but always felt kicker had it pegged. Anymore they have lost their sq edge to appeal to the spl crowd. That's where the money is coming from and the the force driving the car audio aftermarket. SQ guru's like myself are having less and less to chose from. Funny thing is the best car audio equipment was made a decade or more ago, it's gone down hill ever since. A few company's have stayed the same but most have changed to cater to the masses. Which is a lot of distorted power, big numbers, flashy cases, not much else. I could talk about this stuff for hours, grew up in the market, judged, competed, installed, and watched-helped it grow and now watching it's slow demise. Kind of sad, it's quite an art and very enjoyable. I spend hours talking to my 16y/o about car audio, he listens intently but not sure what he thinks. I'm sure he thinks I'm half crazy to be honest, and really I am. Some people think the smell of fresh flowers after a spring rain does it for them, I assure you nothing smells better than fresh cut MDF, 3M super trim adhesive, fiberglass resin and lacquer thinner.

Originally Posted by RNBRAD

I ran kicker comp 12's back in the day then switched to the XPL's to which I still have. Totally marketed wrong as the XPL were the best SQ sub kicker ever made, yep even better than the solo rounds. Had several of the solo rounds too. If the IDQ's impress me I won't hesitate to switch over to the IDQ's in my truck as well.

Originally Posted by juliana21

My set up sounds ridiculous, thanks to RNBRAD

JL 13.5w3v3 Sealed Box
JL 500/1v3

Originally Posted by Machsurfer

nhoj_yelbom, where do the wiring diagrams you have provided come from? I have been looking for something for my 2012 CLS 550 but have been unsuccessful. I signed up for AllDataDIY but that was pretty much worthless lol. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Regards,

DP

Originally Posted by konigstiger

Try this: http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html - wiring diagrams - interior & driver amenity – entertainment

Originally Posted by Tonycpa

^^^Thanks Brad. Anytime.

Just to clarify, when you say your son has 2 sets of CompR 12s, do you mean two separate enclosures, each with 2 subs (4 subs total)...or 2 enclosures each with 1 sub (2 subs total)?

Originally Posted by nhoj_yelbom

here is a clean way to do it off the amp, remote turn on and clean signal. no modified or hacked up wiring, and easy reversal!

Originally Posted by RNBRAD

Well the time has come to add some low bass. I haven't purchased audio gear in quite some time so I was carefull with my selection as much has changed and old school high end equipments is mediocre at best. Not all but most have sold out to cheaper companies. Alpine is one of the few that has remained unchanged so I went with a D class MRX-M100 1000watt sub amp. I have a Image Dynamics Q series V3D2 12" sub on the way. I will have pics of it soon. I'm doing a relatively basic and clean install, nothing too fancy which I almost went all out and built a wall and I even ordered the actuator, magnetic switches and remote LEDS for the amp rack but wife talked me out of it.

1st pic is the 4gauge wiring from battery to the amp location. The wiring is in blue with fuse near battery.

Attachment 409758

This is where I tapped into the signal from the stock amp location under rear deck. Was a little tricky as it required a staggering of the taps so they would all eventually go back into the hole.

Attachment 409759

Install complete (very stealth) and ready for sub.

Attachment 409760
Attachment 409761

Originally Posted by clifton3721

Just dropping a line to thank RNBRAD for this - used it as a reference to do the following in two 2-hour sessions:

- Popped off the interior cab rear window speaker tray. Disconnected the stock LH & RH connections to the stock sub, covered them in foam tape to minimize rattle, replaced tray.
- Went into the trunk, looked up at stock amp harness, disconnected from stock amp, wire spliced/tapped into two pairs of common wire colors (4 wires in a row, 2 color X, 2 color Y are the speaker signals), reconnected stock amp harness back into stock amp, ran those 4 spliced wires to the 4-pin HF harness from sub
- Power from the battery / side terminals in the trunk and ground is right there on a stud with nuts from the factory.
- Ran gain knob wire behind molding, velcro'd knob under dash (no holes drilled)
- Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-12 Single 12" subwoofer enclosure with internal 300-watt amp is crushing it. Have had the same one in my other car for 5 years.

EDIT: No vibration with rear window shade stowed, when deployed, it RaTtTtTtles.

Pics coming soon.

Originally Posted by Boarderjosh10

Looking forward to pics, what kind of sub box are you using? Currently have my trunk apart and thinking about throwing in a 10" since the wiring is so easy. My primary battery in the trunk too.

Originally Posted by clifton3721

Google Rockford P300-12 or P300-10. Easy install and all in one. A 10 would do just fine but the 12 wasn’t much more expensive. Amazon has prime shipping.