W212 amp install, sub to come.
#51
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Memphis
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2012 CLS550
Try this: http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html - wiring diagrams - interior & driver amenity – entertainment
#52
Member
Well the time has come to add some low bass. I haven't purchased audio gear in quite some time so I was carefull with my selection as much has changed and old school high end equipments is mediocre at best. Not all but most have sold out to cheaper companies. Alpine is one of the few that has remained unchanged so I went with a D class MRX-M100 1000watt sub amp. I have a Image Dynamics Q series V3D2 12" sub on the way. I will have pics of it soon. I'm doing a relatively basic and clean install, nothing too fancy which I almost went all out and built a wall and I even ordered the actuator, magnetic switches and remote LEDS for the amp rack but wife talked me out of it.
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Were you as pleased with the loudness (spl) as you were with the sound quality (sq)? I know you need a lot more power to make a sealed box as loud as a ported one.
Props on your craftsmanship as well. You are a highly skilled and patient man
No kidding, wow. My stereo fascination goes back from 1989 until 2002, so things are so different now. I actually liked a lot of Rockford Fosgate stuff back then also, along with JL subs. I used alot of Pheonix Gold amps, really liked them, but I think they were done when I was getting out of it. If I do a sub and amp in my car, I really have to do some homework.
I'll just build it myself. I already bought carpet that's an almost exact match to the trunk and I may use a little vinyl and personalize it. Your box numbers are dead on. I like to build my own and make them perfectly sealed and deadened with spray liner. A good built box makes all the difference in the world, especially when using multiple subs but just a single in my case.
I love plexiglas too. Just finished CNCing a 3/4 black lexan piece for my truck dash that houses my amp temp gauges, real trick. It was originally a clear lexan piece back painted with the gauges mounted behind the unit but the lexan started crazing (stress crack from age) and it drove me crazy. That's what I did here but used real glass for my equipment rack. This is mounted in the headliner of my single cab truck. Sorry only pics I have access to from work.
I love plexiglas too. Just finished CNCing a 3/4 black lexan piece for my truck dash that houses my amp temp gauges, real trick. It was originally a clear lexan piece back painted with the gauges mounted behind the unit but the lexan started crazing (stress crack from age) and it drove me crazy. That's what I did here but used real glass for my equipment rack. This is mounted in the headliner of my single cab truck. Sorry only pics I have access to from work.
Here is a photo of the coffin I built for my Vette. Had the one-off etched-glass Corvette logo custom made for my application...and there is a shot of my Alpine PDX amps during the fitting/re-fitting process which is why the amp & sub aren't centered under the glass yet).
I've been a devoted kicker sub user for 23yrs, was a member of the KCG (kicker competition group) in the 90's cause of the success I had on the competition circuit using their subs. Just really a well balanced sub. I have a kicker square in my Civic and to me it's an average performer. To me subs are like a cars suspension, the softer the ride the worse the handling, less you have adj air ride. Same thing with a speaker, you stiffen up the suspension for power handling, you lose that quick response needed for sq. It's hard to have the best of both worlds but always felt kicker had it pegged. Anymore they have lost their sq edge to appeal to the spl crowd. That's where the money is coming from and the the force driving the car audio aftermarket. SQ guru's like myself are having less and less to chose from. Funny thing is the best car audio equipment was made a decade or more ago, it's gone down hill ever since. A few company's have stayed the same but most have changed to cater to the masses. Which is a lot of distorted power, big numbers, flashy cases, not much else. I could talk about this stuff for hours, grew up in the market, judged, competed, installed, and watched-helped it grow and now watching it's slow demise. Kind of sad, it's quite an art and very enjoyable. I spend hours talking to my 16y/o about car audio, he listens intently but not sure what he thinks. I'm sure he thinks I'm half crazy to be honest, and really I am. Some people think the smell of fresh flowers after a spring rain does it for them, I assure you nothing smells better than fresh cut MDF, 3M super trim adhesive, fiberglass resin and lacquer thinner.
PS: If you click the photo it should take you to Photobucket where you will see more photos with a description of the sub and amp as well as technical specs.
I ran kicker comp 12's back in the day then switched to the XPL's to which I still have. Totally marketed wrong as the XPL were the best SQ sub kicker ever made, yep even better than the solo rounds. Had several of the solo rounds too. If the IDQ's impress me I won't hesitate to switch over to the IDQ's in my truck as well.
JL Audio FTW
Last edited by Tonycpa; 09-27-2015 at 10:33 PM.
#53
nhoj_yelbom, where do the wiring diagrams you have provided come from? I have been looking for something for my 2012 CLS 550 but have been unsuccessful. I signed up for AllDataDIY but that was pretty much worthless lol. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Regards,
DP
Regards,
DP
Try this: http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html - wiring diagrams - interior & driver amenity – entertainment
i get mine via startekinfo. that is a good link posted, thanks!
#54
Super Member
Thread Starter
I didn't quote Tonycpa last reply as it would be the longest reply in mbworld history, lol. To answer a few ?'s I love the sound of the IDQ, very snappy, very quick, very good output for 95% of my listening. I blew one VC on the other 5% listening to some bass song (bass I love you) my son had me listening to. The power handling is questionable but I am using a 1000 watts amp and a 750 watt sub so really my fault. 1st sub I've ever blown but was an easy fix as Image Dynamics sells a VC/cone replacement. My son does have 2 sets of the CompR12's, each set running off of an Alpine MRX-M55. Output is beyond nuts!!! Anyway nice install on the vette, thanks for the input and pics!!
Last edited by RNBRAD; 10-12-2015 at 11:50 PM.
#55
Member
^^^Thanks Brad. Anytime.
Just to clarify, when you say your son has 2 sets of CompR 12s, do you mean two separate enclosures, each with 2 subs (4 subs total)...or 2 enclosures each with 1 sub (2 subs total)?
Just to clarify, when you say your son has 2 sets of CompR 12s, do you mean two separate enclosures, each with 2 subs (4 subs total)...or 2 enclosures each with 1 sub (2 subs total)?
Last edited by Tonycpa; 10-13-2015 at 11:25 AM.
#56
Super Member
Thread Starter
2 separate enclosures, four 12's running off of two mrx-m55's at 2ohms. So about 1100 watts. This is in a 99 toyota 4 runner. Can't hear anything except metal rattling. lol
#57
Member
Thanks for clarifying. I was just wondering why he chose that amp because each enclosure is rated at 1,000w RMS at 2 ohms (500w RMS at 2 ohms each sub) and I know the Alpine MRX-M55 amp is rated at 550w RMS at 2ohms. So, it appeared that the amp he chose to power each enclosure with 2 subs was way underpowered. However, since you mentioned that all you hear now is metal rattling, then it's probably overkill to upgrade the amps too more closely match the subs ability
I was going to suggest checking out Black Friday deals so you can surprise your son this Christmas with an amp that is rated closer to the subs handling ability like the Kicker CX1200.1 which is 1200w RMS at 2ohms which only costs around $300. One of these amps for each enclosure would be a perfect match.
I was going to suggest checking out Black Friday deals so you can surprise your son this Christmas with an amp that is rated closer to the subs handling ability like the Kicker CX1200.1 which is 1200w RMS at 2ohms which only costs around $300. One of these amps for each enclosure would be a perfect match.
Last edited by Tonycpa; 10-14-2015 at 10:15 PM.
#58
Junior Member
Hey guys any idea on which wires I should tap for the base audio(Non- Harmon Kardon )on a 2010 e350 for my line out converter. Any tips are highly appreciated plan to do install this week! Also sorry to revive an old thread!
Thanks
Thanks
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Roafstar01 (03-13-2020)
#59
Did you figure it out? I am new the MB world.. Traded from CTS Cadillac for 2010 E350 W212 Sedan. While MB has its pros over the CTS. The stereo is sadly not even close to the stock Bose of the CTS. I too am in need of some bass but want to make as clean of a hook up as possible. Let me know if you have the answer and any lessons learned plz. Thanks in advance
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retna7 (03-19-2020)
#62
Well the time has come to add some low bass. I haven't purchased audio gear in quite some time so I was carefull with my selection as much has changed and old school high end equipments is mediocre at best. Not all but most have sold out to cheaper companies. Alpine is one of the few that has remained unchanged so I went with a D class MRX-M100 1000watt sub amp. I have a Image Dynamics Q series V3D2 12" sub on the way. I will have pics of it soon. I'm doing a relatively basic and clean install, nothing too fancy which I almost went all out and built a wall and I even ordered the actuator, magnetic switches and remote LEDS for the amp rack but wife talked me out of it.
1st pic is the 4gauge wiring from battery to the amp location. The wiring is in blue with fuse near battery.
Attachment 409758
This is where I tapped into the signal from the stock amp location under rear deck. Was a little tricky as it required a staggering of the taps so they would all eventually go back into the hole.
Attachment 409759
Install complete (very stealth) and ready for sub.
Attachment 409760
Attachment 409761
1st pic is the 4gauge wiring from battery to the amp location. The wiring is in blue with fuse near battery.
Attachment 409758
This is where I tapped into the signal from the stock amp location under rear deck. Was a little tricky as it required a staggering of the taps so they would all eventually go back into the hole.
Attachment 409759
Install complete (very stealth) and ready for sub.
Attachment 409760
Attachment 409761
#63
Just dropping a line to thank RNBRAD for this - used it as a reference to do the following in two 2-hour sessions:
- Popped off the interior cab rear window speaker tray. Disconnected the stock LH & RH connections to the stock sub, covered them in foam tape to minimize rattle, replaced tray.
- Went into the trunk, looked up at stock amp harness, disconnected from stock amp, wire spliced/tapped into two pairs of common wire colors (4 wires in a row, 2 color X, 2 color Y are the speaker signals), reconnected stock amp harness back into stock amp, ran those 4 spliced wires to the 4-pin HF harness from sub
- Power from the battery / side terminals in the trunk and ground is right there on a stud with nuts from the factory.
- Ran gain knob wire behind molding, velcro'd knob under dash (no holes drilled)
- Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-12 Single 12" subwoofer enclosure with internal 300-watt amp is crushing it. Have had the same one in my other car for 5 years.
EDIT: No vibration with rear window shade stowed, when deployed, it RaTtTtTtles.
Pics coming soon.
- Popped off the interior cab rear window speaker tray. Disconnected the stock LH & RH connections to the stock sub, covered them in foam tape to minimize rattle, replaced tray.
- Went into the trunk, looked up at stock amp harness, disconnected from stock amp, wire spliced/tapped into two pairs of common wire colors (4 wires in a row, 2 color X, 2 color Y are the speaker signals), reconnected stock amp harness back into stock amp, ran those 4 spliced wires to the 4-pin HF harness from sub
- Power from the battery / side terminals in the trunk and ground is right there on a stud with nuts from the factory.
- Ran gain knob wire behind molding, velcro'd knob under dash (no holes drilled)
- Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-12 Single 12" subwoofer enclosure with internal 300-watt amp is crushing it. Have had the same one in my other car for 5 years.
EDIT: No vibration with rear window shade stowed, when deployed, it RaTtTtTtles.
Pics coming soon.
Last edited by clifton3721; 05-12-2023 at 01:06 AM. Reason: Add info on window shade
#64
Member
Just dropping a line to thank RNBRAD for this - used it as a reference to do the following in two 2-hour sessions:
- Popped off the interior cab rear window speaker tray. Disconnected the stock LH & RH connections to the stock sub, covered them in foam tape to minimize rattle, replaced tray.
- Went into the trunk, looked up at stock amp harness, disconnected from stock amp, wire spliced/tapped into two pairs of common wire colors (4 wires in a row, 2 color X, 2 color Y are the speaker signals), reconnected stock amp harness back into stock amp, ran those 4 spliced wires to the 4-pin HF harness from sub
- Power from the battery / side terminals in the trunk and ground is right there on a stud with nuts from the factory.
- Ran gain knob wire behind molding, velcro'd knob under dash (no holes drilled)
- Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-12 Single 12" subwoofer enclosure with internal 300-watt amp is crushing it. Have had the same one in my other car for 5 years.
EDIT: No vibration with rear window shade stowed, when deployed, it RaTtTtTtles.
Pics coming soon.
- Popped off the interior cab rear window speaker tray. Disconnected the stock LH & RH connections to the stock sub, covered them in foam tape to minimize rattle, replaced tray.
- Went into the trunk, looked up at stock amp harness, disconnected from stock amp, wire spliced/tapped into two pairs of common wire colors (4 wires in a row, 2 color X, 2 color Y are the speaker signals), reconnected stock amp harness back into stock amp, ran those 4 spliced wires to the 4-pin HF harness from sub
- Power from the battery / side terminals in the trunk and ground is right there on a stud with nuts from the factory.
- Ran gain knob wire behind molding, velcro'd knob under dash (no holes drilled)
- Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-12 Single 12" subwoofer enclosure with internal 300-watt amp is crushing it. Have had the same one in my other car for 5 years.
EDIT: No vibration with rear window shade stowed, when deployed, it RaTtTtTtles.
Pics coming soon.
#65
#66
Member