Finally got it done and it sounds absolutely phenominal!!! I used the existing front tie down loop bolts to secure the box in place. Trunk interior integrity was maintained. This can be removed in about 3 minutes and I made sure I still have access to my spare with it in place. Very simple, very clean, very stealth but a lot of freakin work!!




Fabricated flush panels to blend into the sides of the trunk.



The carpet was almost a perfect match. Just a slight texture difference reflected my flash making look off colored but it's not.



The is the bass gain control knob. It may take you a bit to orient it's position but there is a space just on the under side of the steering wheel shaft where the leather boot is. This is just at the bottom with knob facing towards the front. Easy reach out of the way and again, no holes. Was easy mount with 3M double sided tape.

Alpine amp mounted under the rear deck. Perfect fit and nicely tucked away.

 

1) craftsman couldn't thank you more for all the businesses you gave them .
2) you will have a lot of new friends after this thread. they all want to have you do the same set up for them .
3) many men's dream garage and toys .
4) how long did the whole process take you ?
5) does it at least cost a small fortune ?
6) what if you change car in the near future, just change the box and keep the guts ?
7) last but not least, we all can't wait to have a sound clip .

that's one mean job you've done there !

 

Definitely have to agree with BM2BZ.. I am very impressed on how you pretty much hid it in your trunk. It seems that it was part of the car. Props to trying something new and probably creating an entire new mod for the w212.

 

Excellent job
This thing looks like OEM not a custom stuff that you spent hard time making it

 

I have a silly question here:

I understand that this car has a sub speaker but the amplification for it lacks. If you can just add a new speaker with a new amplifier why could you not use the car's own sub speaker for it, i.e. cut it off of the car's sound system and connect the new amp to it? Just curious...

P.S. Very nice job for the installation. My problem would be that it takes a lot of trunk space and kind of renders the folding back seats almost useless, but very nice quality job indeed.

 

damn those wheels down there look clean


nice work too man......skills

 

I do have a lot of craftsman tools for sure, I love their stuff. I spent about 20 to 25 hours over a few week process to complete it. I struggled with how elaborate I wanted to go but the more elaborate the install the more space I would of used and compromised the stock trunk integrity. When everything is custom, from mounting brackets to box and bracing, it just takes some time to make sure it's done right. A good box takes a few days for the glues and silicone to cure and I also use spray deadener on the inside that soaks into the wood creating a perfect seal and adds density. Prefab store bought boxes don't compare for SQ. As for cost, my amp cost $222.00, remote gain $25.00, IDQ sub $249.00, Streetwires 4gauge amp wiring kit $60.00, wood, glue, carpet, Monster 10g speaker wire and 3 pairs banana terminals, speaker terminal, polyfill, spray deadener all for $120.00. So for around $680.00 total, not a bad mod for the price and results are priceless in my book. You can unplug the OEM sub and you would notice little difference. A good sub just completes a stereo. The OEM system has so much to offer but with the lack of sub bass, it degrades the sound of everything else. This just brings it to life.

Arrie, to address your question: I'm sure with a better amp or even the ability to attenuate the gain of the stock amp would help to a certain extent. Though having looked at the factory sub and it's build, I realize that gaining much if any more than what it currently produces might be asking for the impossible. It's apparently a design with limitations as we all have experienced. It's a very small flat sub which you can tell does not have much excursion capability. Therefore it's not going to perform as one would like no matter what you throw at it. As for trunk space, it uses very little and can be removed really quickly. It does hinder the use of the folding rears but I try and think of how many times I've used them in any of my cars. Pretty much not at all. I'd rather use my sub everyday but if need arises, 2 minutes and it's out of the way.

Thanks for the compliments. Any questions or if you want further details or pics, feel free to ask. Thanks Hyp, you know how we love clean wheels.

 

$680 is actually a very good deal...only if the labor is free . i don't even know the names of all the tools, let alone using them .

i've noticed the trunk is actually slightly bigger than my previous bmw but i just hate the little bump inside . you pretty much can't put anything toward the back of the rear seats . they'll slide back down toward the rear bumper area. carpet mat makes it worse, of course. what's underneath that bump anyway ?

the other thing i have to agree is the bass. not that i need a bazooka but i'm a bit disappointed with the bass. the sound is pretty good, though. so your setup right now is ideal for most !

 

Awesome work!

 

Dude, looks awesome. Very clean and a nice simple install. Please build me one and ship to PA, please...lol What cubic foot is the box overall, and come on, how does it sound? Oh, and the banshee looks mean with those paddles on it,,, RIP two strokes.

 

+1!! would be cool to know the size's to make one and come on post a short vid to see how it sounds!

 

Please tell me about the amp install. Where did you get power from? Is your car battery in the front or back? how did you connect the amp to the stock system?
Thanks

 

Awesome work man!

 

Tj check my amp install link.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-sub-come.html

Internal box volume is exactly 1.05 ft/3. Sounds killer and long live the Banshee!!

 

Nice...VERY nice!!! That is definitely the perfect addition to the H/K unit... Only thing I would want to add/modify is somehow integrate a midrange controller to the system. I hate that I can't adjust the "voice" level in my music. Sometimes the midrange is much to high for my taste...don't know why H/K didn't include that w/ the Bass/Treble controls.

 

Darn it. Its so much easier when the battery is in the trunk. I would of had mine installed already if the battery was in the trunk. Oh well, I am getting bored with the car anyway, looking for something new already.
Ty for the link.
Nice work!

 

RNBRAD,
One gutsy man!

 

If you have a 550 then you have another battery in your trunk which operates the airmatic suspension.

 

Excellent job, the install looks extremely clean.

 

Thanks for the replies. I do have an update for anyone interested in doing the same thing. Instead of grabbing the signal after the amp there is some low level 6v signals going into the amp. They are the very small brown and white wires on the rear amp plug. Oh man it's sounds a lot better. I tapped into my input signal from there right into an RCA then plugged into the amp. There is also a turn on signal which is the medium sized either dark blue or black wire. It's 12v when stereo is turned on. Very simple, everything is right there. I did all the work so now you guys will have it easy.

 

Where is this battery? Is it beside the Airmatic? If so it must be a small battery, do you think it would be safe to run a powerful amp from it?

 

W212 amp install, sub to come. if you check this post, you can see the battery in the pictures where it is located, near the spare tire, and yes, near the airmatic controls. Picture #1, bottom right.

 

That is not the Airmaitic battery that is the car battery. My W211 and first W212 had the battery back there but my current W212 has the battery up front and nothing in the back.
TY, though.

 

skills

 

Yeah, your right. I just checked to see if I had a second battery in the trunk, but no, Just the main battery under the hood. Sorry for the wrong info.