W212 amp install, sub to come.

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Were you as pleased with the loudness (spl) as you were with the sound quality (sq)? I know you need a lot more power to make a sealed box as loud as a ported one.
Props on your craftsmanship as well. You are a highly skilled and patient man

I love plexiglas too. Just finished CNCing a 3/4 black lexan piece for my truck dash that houses my amp temp gauges, real trick. It was originally a clear lexan piece back painted with the gauges mounted behind the unit but the lexan started crazing (stress crack from age) and it drove me crazy. That's what I did here but used real glass for my equipment rack. This is mounted in the headliner of my single cab truck. Sorry only pics I have access to from work.


Here is a photo of the coffin I built for my Vette. Had the one-off etched-glass Corvette logo custom made for my application...and there is a shot of my Alpine PDX amps during the fitting/re-fitting process which is why the amp & sub aren't centered under the glass yet).




Same thing with a speaker, you stiffen up the suspension for power handling, you lose that quick response needed for sq. It's hard to have the best of both worlds but always felt kicker had it pegged. Anymore they have lost their sq edge to appeal to the spl crowd. That's where the money is coming from and the the force driving the car audio aftermarket. SQ guru's like myself are having less and less to chose from. Funny thing is the best car audio equipment was made a decade or more ago, it's gone down hill ever since. A few company's have stayed the same but most have changed to cater to the masses. Which is a lot of distorted power, big numbers, flashy cases, not much else. I could talk about this stuff for hours, grew up in the market, judged, competed, installed, and watched-helped it grow and now watching it's slow demise. Kind of sad, it's quite an art and very enjoyable. I spend hours talking to my 16y/o about car audio, he listens intently but not sure what he thinks. I'm sure he thinks I'm half crazy to be honest, and really I am.
Some people think the smell of fresh flowers after a spring rain does it for them, I assure you nothing smells better than fresh cut MDF, 3M super trim adhesive, fiberglass resin and lacquer thinner. 

.PS: If you click the photo it should take you to Photobucket where you will see more photos with a description of the sub and amp as well as technical specs.






JL Audio FTW
Last edited by Tonycpa; Sep 27, 2015 at 10:33 PM.
Regards,
DP
i get mine via startekinfo. that is a good link posted, thanks!

Last edited by RNBRAD; Oct 12, 2015 at 11:50 PM.
Just to clarify, when you say your son has 2 sets of CompR 12s, do you mean two separate enclosures, each with 2 subs (4 subs total)...or 2 enclosures each with 1 sub (2 subs total)?
Last edited by Tonycpa; Oct 13, 2015 at 11:25 AM.


I was going to suggest checking out Black Friday deals so you can surprise your son this Christmas with an amp that is rated closer to the subs handling ability like the Kicker CX1200.1 which is 1200w RMS at 2ohms which only costs around $300. One of these amps for each enclosure would be a perfect match

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Last edited by Tonycpa; Oct 14, 2015 at 10:15 PM.
Thanks

The Best of Mercedes & AMG

1st pic is the 4gauge wiring from battery to the amp location. The wiring is in blue with fuse near battery.
Attachment 409758
This is where I tapped into the signal from the stock amp location under rear deck. Was a little tricky as it required a staggering of the taps so they would all eventually go back into the hole.
Attachment 409759
Install complete (very stealth) and ready for sub.
Attachment 409760
Attachment 409761
- Popped off the interior cab rear window speaker tray. Disconnected the stock LH & RH connections to the stock sub, covered them in foam tape to minimize rattle, replaced tray.
- Went into the trunk, looked up at stock amp harness, disconnected from stock amp, wire spliced/tapped into two pairs of common wire colors (4 wires in a row, 2 color X, 2 color Y are the speaker signals), reconnected stock amp harness back into stock amp, ran those 4 spliced wires to the 4-pin HF harness from sub
- Power from the battery / side terminals in the trunk and ground is right there on a stud with nuts from the factory.
- Ran gain knob wire behind molding, velcro'd knob under dash (no holes drilled)
- Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-12 Single 12" subwoofer enclosure with internal 300-watt amp is crushing it. Have had the same one in my other car for 5 years.
EDIT: No vibration with rear window shade stowed, when deployed, it RaTtTtTtles.
Pics coming soon.
Last edited by clifton3721; May 12, 2023 at 01:06 AM. Reason: Add info on window shade
- Popped off the interior cab rear window speaker tray. Disconnected the stock LH & RH connections to the stock sub, covered them in foam tape to minimize rattle, replaced tray.
- Went into the trunk, looked up at stock amp harness, disconnected from stock amp, wire spliced/tapped into two pairs of common wire colors (4 wires in a row, 2 color X, 2 color Y are the speaker signals), reconnected stock amp harness back into stock amp, ran those 4 spliced wires to the 4-pin HF harness from sub
- Power from the battery / side terminals in the trunk and ground is right there on a stud with nuts from the factory.
- Ran gain knob wire behind molding, velcro'd knob under dash (no holes drilled)
- Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-12 Single 12" subwoofer enclosure with internal 300-watt amp is crushing it. Have had the same one in my other car for 5 years.
EDIT: No vibration with rear window shade stowed, when deployed, it RaTtTtTtles.
Pics coming soon.














