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Hmm, wonder why they changed that? So they went to a single battery then? That battery in the trunk is a beast, just like the one in the 211. Perfect for a big amp anyway.
My E350 have Harman/Kardon Logic 7 audio system.
As you know, there is not enough bass!
So I found workshop and they installed to my car subwoofer (12'' Peerless XXLS) and amplifier (Alpine MRX-M55).
Now I have problem! If I turn off the head unit, then about after 10 sek. subwoofer do some loud "boom". It also "boom" when to open doors and just wait a little. Without turning nothing on.
Workshop said, that this is known problem and there is nothing to do!
They said, that OEM amplifier causes this. As I understand, they tap the signals for subwoofer and amplifier from OEM amplifier. Is it only and correct way?
My E350 have Harman/Kardon Logic 7 audio system.
As you know, there is not enough bass!
So I found workshop and they installed to my car subwoofer (12'' Peerless XXLS) and amplifier (Alpine MRX-M55).
Now I have problem! If I turn off the head unit, then about after 10 sek. subwoofer do some loud "boom". It also "boom" when to open doors and just wait a little. Without turning nothing on.
Workshop said, that this is known problem and there is nothing to do!
They said, that OEM amplifier causes this. As I understand, they tap the signals for subwoofer and amplifier from OEM amplifier. Is it only and correct way?
They do not have the "remote" wire installed correctly. The Alpine amp should shut off immediately when you turn the car off, instead your alpine amp is still powered after you shut the car off so its capable of producing that "boom"
Have the installers install the "remote" wire to a source that loses power immediately after you shut the car off.
Yes, seems the problem is caused by remote signal. As I know for now, this Alpine amp turn on, when detect an incoming audio signal. Workshop said, that after I open doors, then OEM amp turn on and gives some audio signal. This signal turn on Alpine amp etc.
The plan is replace this Alpine amp model (MRX-M55) to any other, without audio signal turn on function. Any good advice, where to tap the remote signal?
yo man i just want to say, you killed it. great job, i really mean it. i wish i had blueprints or measurements of your sub box...plus your skills lol. may you live a long and prospers life
Thanks for sharing. I still have my 2 12 inch JL Audio w6 subs and my 500/1 JL amp from my previous car. After seeing your set up makes me want to install it my car.
Would you be kind enough to post your sub box dimensions? I'm looking at adding a 10 or 12" sub to my 2104 E350 and based on your pics the trunks look nearly identical.
Also I've heard from a couple of installers the MB has went to using a lot of fibre optics in the newer models making the addition of an aftermarket sub daunting if not impossible. Can anyone confirm if this is the case?
I'd hate to but the parts and start the build only to find out there's no way to attach the sub.
I just installed a JL sub in my E550 and at some bass notes I get a lot of rattle from the top deck. Sounds like its coming from the window shade roll up motor or something like that. Did u run into this as well? If do what did u do to solve the problem?
I just installed a JL sub in my E550 and at some bass notes I get a lot of rattle from the top deck. Sounds like its coming from the window shade roll up motor or something like that. Did u run into this as well? If do what did u do to solve the problem?
Cheers
The dust cap in the middle of one of my rear speakers separated and caused a similar sound... Re glued it and I was good to go. The sunshade I have read does cause rattling in some cases from what I have read. There also is a fix I believe it involves felt tape and tightening the sunshade brackets.
What sub did you go with? I added a 12w6 and couldn't be happier. Much lighter and requires less space that the w7's I've used before.
The dust cap in the middle of one of my rear speakers separated and caused a similar sound... Re glued it and I was good to go. The sunshade I have read does cause rattling in some cases from what I have read. There also is a fix I believe it involves felt tape and tightening the sunshade brackets.
What sub did you go with? I added a 12w6 and couldn't be happier. Much lighter and requires less space that the w7's I've used before.
can you please tell me a lil more about the sunshade fix??? or a link .. anything?? thank u
can you please tell me a lil more about the sunshade fix??? or a link .. anything?? thank u
There are a few spots that can cause it... Search "rear deck rattle" a handful of threads pop up. A few good ones are on Benzworld too. I found a lot of mine via google as it pulls from multiple forums. That said, I'm most active on here and have found most of the info I needed within this group.
There are a few spots that can cause it... Search "rear deck rattle" a handful of threads pop up. A few good ones are on Benzworld too. I found a lot of mine via google as it pulls from multiple forums. That said, I'm most active on here and have found most of the info I needed within this group.
I understand that this car has a sub speaker but the amplification for it lacks. If you can just add a new speaker with a new amplifier why could you not use the car's own sub speaker for it, i.e. cut it off of the car's sound system and connect the new amp to it? Just curious...
P.S. Very nice job for the installation. My problem would be that it takes a lot of trunk space and kind of renders the folding back seats almost useless, but very nice quality job indeed.
The Alpine amp he chose probably has an RMS rating that exceeds the capability of the stock subwoofer.
Originally Posted by RNBRAD
I do have a lot of craftsman tools for sure, I love their stuff. I spent about 20 to 25 hours over a few week process to complete it. I struggled with how elaborate I wanted to go but the more elaborate the install the more space I would of used and compromised the stock trunk integrity. When everything is custom, from mounting brackets to box and bracing, it just takes some time to make sure it's done right. A good box takes a few days for the glues and silicone to cure and I also use spray deadener on the inside that soaks into the wood creating a perfect seal and adds density. Prefab store bought boxes don't compare for SQ. As for cost, my amp cost $222.00, remote gain $25.00, IDQ sub $249.00, Streetwires 4gauge amp wiring kit $60.00, wood, glue, carpet, Monster 10g speaker wire and 3 pairs banana terminals, speaker terminal, polyfill, spray deadener all for $120.00. So for around $680.00 total, not a bad mod for the price and results are priceless in my book. You can unplug the OEM sub and you would notice little difference. A good sub just completes a stereo. The OEM system has so much to offer but with the lack of sub bass, it degrades the sound of everything else. This just brings it to life.
Arrie, to address your question: I'm sure with a better amp or even the ability to attenuate the gain of the stock amp would help to a certain extent. Though having looked at the factory sub and it's build, I realize that gaining much if any more than what it currently produces might be asking for the impossible. It's apparently a design with limitations as we all have experienced. It's a very small flat sub which you can tell does not have much excursion capability. Therefore it's not going to perform as one would like no matter what you throw at it. As for trunk space, it uses very little and can be removed really quickly. It does hinder the use of the folding rears but I try and think of how many times I've used them in any of my cars. Pretty much not at all. I'd rather use my sub everyday but if need arises, 2 minutes and it's out of the way.
Thanks for the compliments. Any questions or if you want further details or pics, feel free to ask. Thanks Hyp, you know how we love clean wheels.
What model is the Alpine amp? What model is the IDQ sub?
I used Alpine PDX amps in my Vette and they were perfect for that application.
Originally Posted by hofb99
Nice...VERY nice!!! That is definitely the perfect addition to the H/K unit... Only thing I would want to add/modify is somehow integrate a midrange controller to the system. I hate that I can't adjust the "voice" level in my music. Sometimes the midrange is much to high for my taste...don't know why H/K didn't include that w/ the Bass/Treble controls.
In a vehicle of this class it is inexcusable whether the sound system is tuned or not. Each person has their own tastes and to simple have the ability to control treble and bass is cheap cheap.
Shame on MB for nickel and diming their luxury buyers.
My E350 have Harman/Kardon Logic 7 audio system.
As you know, there is not enough bass!
So I found workshop and they installed to my car subwoofer (12'' Peerless XXLS) and amplifier (Alpine MRX-M55).
Now I have problem! If I turn off the head unit, then about after 10 sek. subwoofer do some loud "boom". It also "boom" when to open doors and just wait a little. Without turning nothing on.
Workshop said, that this is known problem and there is nothing to do!
They said, that OEM amplifier causes this. As I understand, they tap the signals for subwoofer and amplifier from OEM amplifier. Is it only and correct way?
I see both the 12" Peerless XXLS amp and the Alpine MRX-M55 are rated at 350 watts RMS at 4 ohms. It take a lot of wattage to reproduce deep and accurate base. Once you resolved your issues, were you happy with the sound?
Originally Posted by Ed99
Thanks for sharing. I still have my 2 12 inch JL Audio w6 subs and my 500/1 JL amp from my previous car. After seeing your set up makes me want to install it my car.
Did you get around to it?
Originally Posted by horsey94
I just installed a JL sub in my E550 and at some bass notes I get a lot of rattle from the top deck. Sounds like its coming from the window shade roll up motor or something like that. Did u run into this as well? If do what did u do to solve the problem?
Cheers
What model JL sub and what amp are you using to power it? Are you happy with it?
Originally Posted by Abrown3mtg
The dust cap in the middle of one of my rear speakers separated and caused a similar sound... Re glued it and I was good to go. The sunshade I have read does cause rattling in some cases from what I have read. There also is a fix I believe it involves felt tape and tightening the sunshade brackets.
What sub did you go with? I added a 12w6 and couldn't be happier. Much lighter and requires less space that the w7's I've used before.
Sorry to revive an old thread, but can anyone point out which wires I need to tap for the line out converter, I have a 2010 e350 with the base speaker system (Non- Harmon Kardon).
I'm not sure where the wires are you referred to. I see something like an amp in a cubby hole near the driver side taillight. Also there is something beneath the rear deck but has several brown wires. I'm lost
So I have a 2015 and it has an oval sub in the deck. I don't see an amp up there. The wires from the sub go down on the drivers side. There appears to be an amp or something in the cubby on that side near the tail light I'm lost
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
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WOW
