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Sorry to revive an old thread, but can anyone point out which wires I need to tap for the line out converter, I have a 2010 e350 with the base speaker system (Non- Harmon Kardon).
Thanks!
Here's hoping for an answer on this as it has been an elusive topic for non-premium audio models.
I have a 2006 E350 W211, base, non-premium audio. Same question, same intention, just a different year.
Sorry to revive an old thread, but can anyone point out which wires I need to tap for the line out converter, I have a 2010 e350 with the base speaker system (Non- Harmon Kardon).
Thanks!
Not sure if it is the same with the 2010, but finally found an answer to this for the 2006 W211 over at www.the12volt.com I would try there if the layout below doesn't match your setup.
Find the AGW in the left side of the trunk. In the 2006 W211, it is between the trunk arm/springs and the fender well (behind the fuse block area). May have to drill out rivets to access- if so, will need to re-rivet back in place when done.
Find and splice off of the AGW wires that goes out to the speakers (to wire in your LOC):
Left Front Speaker (+/-) green - brown/green +,- amplifier in trunk left side, 14 pin plug, pins 7 - 8
Right Front Speaker (+/-) black - brown/black +,- amplifier in trunk left side, 14 pin plug, pins 13 - 14
Left Rear Speaker (+/-) pink - brown/pink +,- amplifier in trunk left side, 14 pin plug, pins 9 - 10
Right Rear Speaker (+/-) white - brown/white +,- amplifier in trunk left side, 14 pin plug, pins 11 - 12
I will post pics of this when I complete this as well as lessons learned, for science.
AGW and wires to splice in order to add a LOC for amp in a non-premium audio version of the W211
to anybody with the harman kardon system did you guys wire in any type of Equalizer? I know the mercedes audio system turns bass down as volume go higher, how do you bypass this?
Thanks for the replies. I do have an update for anyone interested in doing the same thing. Instead of grabbing the signal after the amp there is some low level 6v signals going into the amp. They are the very small brown and white wires on the rear amp plug. Oh man it's sounds a lot better. I tapped into my input signal from there right into an RCA then plugged into the amp. There is also a turn on signal which is the medium sized either dark blue or black wire. It's 12v when stereo is turned on. Very simple, everything is right there. I did all the work so now you guys will have it easy.
where are these wires at ? Is there 4 ? Do you still need a line out converter I have messed with this for 6-7 hours and cut into every wire with out luck any help colors or pics.
Should be only 3 wires only. The big black wire is for the 12v remote start. You can unplug it and check with a voltmeter and it should give you a 12v reading. The other two wires are brown and white. They are both pretty small but you can still tap into them using a t-tap. The white wire should give you a 5v reading and the brown is just a negative wire. Also there's only one signal coming out of the factory amp you will need a female to two males RCA adaptor. Most amps these days need two signals one for the right channel and one for the left. You can read my DIY adding a subwoofer under c218 forum back in July. If you need help you can PM. Btw, you don't need a LOC, my JL subwoofer sounds awesome.
Last edited by FirstCLS550; 08-20-2019 at 12:56 AM.
How are your rattles holding up? I just designed a 3 cube box for a Skar SVR-15 and their RP1500.1D that I just picked up. Don't want anything crazy in the Benz, just some cheap bass to run around with. My 2003 Nissan Maxima is my stereo project car and I have about $14k into the stereo in that thing.
Do you happen to have a location for this small brown and whitewire or a pic locatio
Originally Posted by RNBRAD
Thanks for the replies. I do have an update for anyone interested in doing the same thing. Instead of grabbing the signal after the amp there is some low level 6v signals going into the amp. They are the very small brown and white wires on the rear amp plug. Oh man it's sounds a lot better. I tapped into my input signal from there right into an RCA then plugged into the amp. There is also a turn on signal which is the medium sized either dark blue or black wire. It's 12v when stereo is turned on. Very simple, everything is right there. I did all the work so now you guys will have it easy.
Can you send me a pic of where the small brown and white wire is that you tapped. Is it on the main amp or the one by the sub with the fan
Tap into the one leads going into the sub amp mounted underneath the rear deck in your second picture, not the leads going into the amp on the driver side of the trunk.
Thank you very much you say you didn’t use a line level?
Originally Posted by Senecat
Tap into the one leads going into the sub amp mounted underneath the rear deck in your second picture, not the leads going into the amp on the driver side of the trunk.
I'm not the OP, but the wires mentioned in post #20 are low level signal, so no need for a high level line converter. That said, using the factory signal leads, your low frequency output would still benefit from a unit like the Audio Control Epicenter
Thanks mate ! It’s in sound wicked I can’t thank y’all enough
Thanks a bunch I used an Lc2i and an epicenter and couldn’t be happier.
Originally Posted by Senecat
I'm not the OP, but the wires mentioned in post #20 are low level signal, so no need for a high level line converter. That said, using the factory signal leads, your low frequency output would still benefit from a unit like the Audio Control Epicenter
Thanks a bunch I used an Lc2i and an epicenter and couldn’t be happier.
Nice! How do you like the Epicenter? Did you run signal straight from the stock amp to your sub amp before you had the Lc2i and Epicenter? Just curious how much improvement you saw if that was the case. What are you running for sub and amp? Stock electrical? I'm starting a new thread on my build now.
The epicentre is a HUGE improvement for low bass. I added one into Audi s4 factory sound system and I’m getting another one for my w166 when I do the upgrades this spring. It’s an absolute must to get back that low bass and you can totally control it with an in dash adjustment knob. It makes all music sound better. On my Audi I added it right after the head unit. On my ML I’m going to add a sub amp and a 12” sub to my HK system and I’ll have the epicentre right before the sub amp.
Nice! How do you like the Epicenter? Did you run signal straight from the stock amp to your sub amp before you had the Lc2i and Epicenter? Just curious how much improvement you saw if that was the case. What are you running for sub and amp? Stock electrical? I'm starting a new thread on my build now.
min currently running two old school punch p2 12” in a sealed box. Pushing them with a punch 200 DSM had this system in an old car when I was in high school. And they still jiggle your eye ***** jiggle. Sounds amazing. No need in my opinion to upgrade the stock hk system unless I blow a speaker. I tapped signal wires right before the sub amp like the guys before have mentioned. I have not tried anything else as there is no point. It was the most accessible spot. Clean install no wires seen and it sound phenomenal. The epicenter is a nice touch and is a serious upgrade but Untill you get it set up proper with your Lc2i and your amp gains it will cause you some grief. And sound like ****. I recommend a multi meter and watching a couple videos on how to get it right
2012 w212 e350 with hk 7 logic. i have the rear door speakers tapped into the loc to run my subs but not sounding too great after tuning amp. should i tap into the subwoofer from the rear deck to the loc? or from the amp on the rear deck? need to know which wires are positive/negative. im running 2 12'' subs with 1200w mono D amp.
Thought I'd throw in an update. I pulled the Kicker CompQ 12 and put in 2 Stereo Integrity SQL 12's. I removed the factory amp and replaced it with a Helix V8MKII which is an 8 channel amp with built in DSP. It's incredible to say the least. I used the Helix SDMI-25 which taps into the factory MOST fiber optic cable and maintains all factory controls and receives all music input from the OEM Comand unit. All factory locations have Audiofrog GB speakers now.
I bet that sounds good. I’m not familiar with that amp. I was thinking about doing the same thing with an Audison amp and DSP and Focal 6.5 and 4” and tweeter door speakers in the front. And then another sub amp and two 12” in a custom box. I’ve got everything except the Audison amp and DSP. Hopefully this summer I’ll get into it.
Thought I'd throw in an update. I pulled the Kicker CompQ 12 and put in 2 Stereo Integrity SQL 12's. I removed the factory amp and replaced it with a Helix V8MKII which is an 8 channel amp with built in DSP. It's incredible to say the least. I used the Helix SDMI-25 which taps into the factory MOST fiber optic cable and maintains all factory controls and receives all music input from the OEM Comand unit. All factory locations have Audiofrog GB speakers now.
I remember when I was at CES about 10 years ago and audio frog had all their stuff on display and wow it sounded good. They were just coming out and they had a lot of high end stuff. I’m not too sure about the name but their speakers are really really good.
06-14-2018, 05:45 PM
Changed brands
