AMG Sport Rotors need to be replaced at 30,000
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From: Suburban Philadelphia Area
'11 350 4matic - '14 Stingray: Gone, BMW 530i, Porsche 944 Turbo, Porsche 356, Mitsubishi 3000GT
AMG Sport Rotors need to be replaced at 30,000
Hi everyone...
My front rotors already need to be replaced on my 2011 E350 Sport. I only have 30,000 miles on it and dont drive or break that aggressive? Any thoughts?
Have a great New Year!.
Thx.
My front rotors already need to be replaced on my 2011 E350 Sport. I only have 30,000 miles on it and dont drive or break that aggressive? Any thoughts?
Have a great New Year!.
Thx.
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W212 FL
Good to see you
Sorry to what happened to the rotors . I read long time ago about warped rotors .So, as I recall different tightened or overtightened lug nuts could cause rotors to be warped .This is why they recommend torque wrench
Happy New Year
Sorry to what happened to the rotors . I read long time ago about warped rotors .So, as I recall different tightened or overtightened lug nuts could cause rotors to be warped .This is why they recommend torque wrench
Happy New Year
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From: Toronto
MY17 E43 Matte Selenite/Macchiato Beige, MY16 GLE350d Tenorite/Crystal Grey, MY17 B250
Do they need to be replaced (confirmed below minimum thickness), or is the dealer simply recommending replacement along with the pads?
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From: Central Pennsylvania
2012 S350 Bluetec 4Matic, Diamond White, P2
Your car came with AMG rotors? or do you mean the rotors that come with the "AMG-like" sport package? I find it humorous how many refer to the sport package as "AMG-anything". I am guessing that you mean the standard sport package rotors. It is hard to believe the rotors wore out in 30K miles unless you tend to regularly drive down mountains without engine braking, or, ride your brakes. Shop for replacements.
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2014 W212 E350 4M
I believe the car has warning "squealers" to let you know the brake pads are close to being in need of replacement. If the rotors aren't grooved or damaged by severely worn pads they should not need replacement. Minor resurfacing should be possible when they are turned.
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From: Suburban Philadelphia Area
'11 350 4matic - '14 Stingray: Gone, BMW 530i, Porsche 944 Turbo, Porsche 356, Mitsubishi 3000GT
Your car came with AMG rotors? or do you mean the rotors that come with the "AMG-like" sport package? I find it humorous how many refer to the sport package as "AMG-anything". I am guessing that you mean the standard sport package rotors. It is hard to believe the rotors wore out in 30K miles unless you tend to regularly drive down mountains without engine braking, or, ride your brakes. Shop for replacements.
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'11 350 4matic - '14 Stingray: Gone, BMW 530i, Porsche 944 Turbo, Porsche 356, Mitsubishi 3000GT
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Thread Starter
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From: Suburban Philadelphia Area
'11 350 4matic - '14 Stingray: Gone, BMW 530i, Porsche 944 Turbo, Porsche 356, Mitsubishi 3000GT
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From: Southern US
2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
Torque of the lug nuts have absolutely NOTHING to do with warped rotors. This, of course, means that the nuts are made tight in general. This does NOT require a torque wrench.
Last edited by Arrie; Jan 2, 2013 at 11:42 PM.
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2012 CLS63
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From: Central Pennsylvania
2012 S350 Bluetec 4Matic, Diamond White, P2
sarcasm-R-us. Nah, I wasn't trying to be lame-o. But, there is a big difference between the rotors on an AMG and the "AMG-logo" sport stuff. That is some heavy braking to destroy rotors at 30K. The good news is that the Sport Pacage do-dads are a lot less expensive than the real stuff.
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From: Columbus, OH
2002 E55 AMG, 06 C55 AMG, 72 350SL
I dont think Mercedes dealerships turn rotors. The one here doesn't, and they don't even have the machine to do so if someone requests it.
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From: England
Mercedes E350 CD Iridium silver convertible 2010
Interesting these comments about being genuine AMG! Why aren't they? They are drilled rotors and the calliper (not multi-pot) are a the size commensurate with the power output of the 350 or 350CDI, or the 550, just because they are not the exact same as on say a C63AMG makes no difference, size does not matter in this case as they are what they are!
Having owned an AMG version of a Mercedes, people are missing the point as to what an AMG is, the model I had is a completely rebuilt car and compared in no way to the top of the range model it came from, and I don't mean power output which is obvious but the total build quality, the car was virtually rebuilt from the base chassis up, was chalk and cheese by way of comparison!!!! That is what AMG is about!!!!"
Having said all this, I think that Mercedes callipers and disc's are more prone to warping than many other top end cars!
This is probably due to metal composition and manufacture, being design to fail at an earlier rate.
I have known a fault on a brake system, where the pad was not fully disengaging from the disc when the brake pedal was released, something to do with the brake control system, causing the rotors to overheat on a number of occasions, eventually till they warped!!!!
BMW for example are to my knowledge the only manufacturer who balance each individual disc during the manufacture process.
The comment surrounding wheel tightness does not affect the brakes, having had a wheel come loose (on a previous high powered car) I am well versed on the impact it had on the braking system before and after the event. So I would blow smoke on that comment!!!
Having owned an AMG version of a Mercedes, people are missing the point as to what an AMG is, the model I had is a completely rebuilt car and compared in no way to the top of the range model it came from, and I don't mean power output which is obvious but the total build quality, the car was virtually rebuilt from the base chassis up, was chalk and cheese by way of comparison!!!! That is what AMG is about!!!!"
Having said all this, I think that Mercedes callipers and disc's are more prone to warping than many other top end cars!
This is probably due to metal composition and manufacture, being design to fail at an earlier rate.
I have known a fault on a brake system, where the pad was not fully disengaging from the disc when the brake pedal was released, something to do with the brake control system, causing the rotors to overheat on a number of occasions, eventually till they warped!!!!
BMW for example are to my knowledge the only manufacturer who balance each individual disc during the manufacture process.
The comment surrounding wheel tightness does not affect the brakes, having had a wheel come loose (on a previous high powered car) I am well versed on the impact it had on the braking system before and after the event. So I would blow smoke on that comment!!!
Last edited by theraven333; Jan 3, 2013 at 01:45 PM.
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From: Sarasota, Florida
2011 E350, 2004 911
However, wheel tightness most certainly affects the brakes or brake rotor to be specific. *If* the wheel is not torqued properly it will cause warpage. All the lug nuts *must* be at the same ft-lbs so the pressure is even. The reason is the wheels are aluminum. If you have two lugs at 100 ft-lbs torque and 2 at 70 and one 110 ft-lbs then the wheel will not run true. That puts pressure on the rotor not to run true.
A steel wheel on a drum brake won't cause any problems. I can tell you that I always torque my own wheels. I have watched the dealers and they do not torque the wheel. I had one lug on so tight that I bent a tool trying to loosen it.
All alloy wheels should be installed using a torque wrench. Check your vehicle's manual for correct settings. When you install wheels for the first time, you should re-torque wheels after about 100km to 150km (60 to 90 miles).
In 15 years of doing this I have never had a bad rotor again. Take a torque wrench and check the lugs after the dealer has done the work. You will most likely find the lugs either tight as hell or loosen with a gentle tug. This practice helps sell rotors.
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From: England
Mercedes E350 CD Iridium silver convertible 2010
Agree with the comment on the wheel nuts being torqued correctly.
Just to endorse your point, I had an incident !!!I was driving my car a BMW 6 Series, when the first nut started to loosen on the wheel, (clearly I was unaware) I was travelling on a 400 mile trip, as the nut loosened it impacted the brakes fairly quickly but subtly, cutting a long description short, when I went into the BMW dealer, 100 miles into my journey as an emergency ( my car had runflats and no damn wheel brace, always carry one now!!!!), they had to take the car out again to diagnose the problem, when they first returned they said they could find nothing until he had to brake hard turning into their forecourt, then he felt the effect. Once diagnosed we got into a discussion, he said that the brake rotor had moved off centre on the hub, (remember they are held on by one bolt), he said it was only a few mills but is enough to unbalance the disc, which over time would have resulted in a disc failure, ie warping. He then explained to me the in and outs of correctly torqued bolts and the effect they can have!! needless to say I torque and check regularly my wheel bolts, to the correct settings.
finally how did it happen, I had had my wheel refurbished and when they put the wheel back on there were two things wrong, one they were definitely under torqued and second the face on one of the bolts had paint on it which almost acted as a lubricant which caused the first bolt to come loose then it followed that the other four bolts then started to undo!!!!!!!!!!!!! Lucky to be Alive as I was travelling very quickly nod nod wink wink !!!!
Just to endorse your point, I had an incident !!!I was driving my car a BMW 6 Series, when the first nut started to loosen on the wheel, (clearly I was unaware) I was travelling on a 400 mile trip, as the nut loosened it impacted the brakes fairly quickly but subtly, cutting a long description short, when I went into the BMW dealer, 100 miles into my journey as an emergency ( my car had runflats and no damn wheel brace, always carry one now!!!!), they had to take the car out again to diagnose the problem, when they first returned they said they could find nothing until he had to brake hard turning into their forecourt, then he felt the effect. Once diagnosed we got into a discussion, he said that the brake rotor had moved off centre on the hub, (remember they are held on by one bolt), he said it was only a few mills but is enough to unbalance the disc, which over time would have resulted in a disc failure, ie warping. He then explained to me the in and outs of correctly torqued bolts and the effect they can have!! needless to say I torque and check regularly my wheel bolts, to the correct settings.
finally how did it happen, I had had my wheel refurbished and when they put the wheel back on there were two things wrong, one they were definitely under torqued and second the face on one of the bolts had paint on it which almost acted as a lubricant which caused the first bolt to come loose then it followed that the other four bolts then started to undo!!!!!!!!!!!!! Lucky to be Alive as I was travelling very quickly nod nod wink wink !!!!
Last edited by theraven333; Jan 3, 2013 at 03:54 PM.
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From: San Antonio,TX
2011 MB E550 Sport Sedan
Just pure and simple the rotors on all W212 before 2013 model year are just inferior. I experience the same thing as BPhillyBenz in my 2011 E550 just around 13,000miles even though I don't break aggressively and my driving is 70 % HWY . Vibration mostly noticeable when braking suddenly at speed over 55mph. slotted rotors shouldn't be warping this early due to heat under normal everyday use. Just poor metal composition in the rotor...Looking to replace my with better aftermarket rotor..told my service advisor will not replace rotor from same supply as OEM.
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From: Toronto
MY17 E43 Matte Selenite/Macchiato Beige, MY16 GLE350d Tenorite/Crystal Grey, MY17 B250
If you drive an E350 cabrio as per your info, the chassis code is A207, not W212.
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From: England
Mercedes E350 CD Iridium silver convertible 2010
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From: Toronto
MY17 E43 Matte Selenite/Macchiato Beige, MY16 GLE350d Tenorite/Crystal Grey, MY17 B250
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From: England
Mercedes E350 CD Iridium silver convertible 2010
yes you seem to be ignorant of the commonality between the model ranges, with the exact same issues! Plus if I choose to comment on an item in this forum I do not see any validation that states I have to have the exact model! So kindly accept you are making yourself look quite ****!
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From: Placitas, NM
E550
Just pure and simple the rotors on all W212 before 2013 model year are just inferior. I experience the same thing as BPhillyBenz in my 2011 E550 just around 13,000miles even though I don't break aggressively and my driving is 70 % HWY . Vibration mostly noticeable when braking suddenly at speed over 55mph. . . ...told my service advisor will not replace rotor from same supply as OEM.
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From: Toronto
MY17 E43 Matte Selenite/Macchiato Beige, MY16 GLE350d Tenorite/Crystal Grey, MY17 B250
yes you seem to be ignorant of the commonality between the model ranges, with the exact same issues! Plus if I choose to comment on an item in this forum I do not see any validation that states I have to have the exact model! So kindly accept you are making yourself look quite ****!
