I have my service B coming up and I am wondering if anybody opt to change their pads and rotors not at the actual service but with other/better pads and rotors instead?

Your pads and rotors need to be replaced at the B service already?

For some reason I was always under the impression that I change those at service B.. Maybe I was wrong.

My dash reminds me that i have 500km until service B. However, I am planning a trip from LA to SF this saturday. Do you think that it is okay if i put an extra 800 miles before I come back and do the service B instead? I don't think it should be an issue right?

I just had the B service and they told me that my brakes had more than 50% life left. Granted, I downshift some of the time to slow the car, but I doubt that you need to even replace the brake pads unless you are a very aggressive driver.

You should be able to run at least two sets of brake pads for one set of rotors, probably three. Some "experts" here in the forum say you need to replace rotors when your pads wear out but this is total garbage. As long as the rotors are within the minimum thickness and not warped they can have rings worn to them and they are perfectly fine to use with new set of pads.

In general MB says you need to bring the car in for service inside 1000 miles of the mark, i.e. if you are less than 1000 miles over the service point it should be ok for warranties etc.

But if you are worried take your car to the dealer or somewhere else or do it yourself (like I do) for an oil change. Oil change is easy to do with a pump thru the dip stick hole. Filter is at the top of the engine so there is no need to go under the car.

Oil change is the only item in the service book that depends on the mileage, the other stuff can be done later.

When you replace your brake pads I recommend getting third party ceramic pads. By now you know how dirty your rims are just two days after you wash your car. Ceramic pads will fix that problem.

MB will not install ceramic pads. They only use MB parts so you either need to do it yourself or take the car to a indy shop to do it.

Thank you for the responses. I have a few days before I leave for San Fran on Saturday. I will bring my car in tomorrow morning and just to get the service B done just in case.

If I change brake pads, will it void my warranty on some things?

Also, what brands of ceramic pads are recommended?

The reason why I thought I needed brake pads change is because it seems that I am stepping on the brake pedal much farther than I do before to stop a car. It was starting to worry me. Maybe it is just my mind playing tricks on me?

It could be because you got some air or moisture in the brake system. Brake fluid absorbs moisture in the air. with water in the system, it doesn't work as well and will require more pressure from the pedal to stop. That's why they recommend replacing the fluid every 2 years.

If you do the full B service then they will tell you the condition of your brakes.

Going to non-OE brake pads or rotors is just like any other mod. While the act itself won't affect your warranty, the dealership may refuse future warranty service on related parts (brake system, clunking noises when stopping etc) if they believe that the issue is caused by the aftermarket mod.

You'll need to find a local shop to do the brake work because (like Arrie said), the dealer won't install aftermarket parts.

Remember that you are on your own if you get a noise when braking. The independent garage will most likely blame MB and MB will blame the indie.

I would not recommend any mods to an owner who doesn't understand how the systems work, how they are inter-related and where the pitfalls are.

Do you have a trusted indy shop to do your brakework? I'd not feel comfortable giving my shiny MB to the high school dropout at the local tire and brake place unless I knew his or her qualifications. There are plenty of high school dropouts that are great in their professions but how do you know that you'll get one of those and not the pot smoking deadbeat who doesn't which end of the screwdriver to use? If you run into one of those at MB at least you have some recourse.

My recommendation to go with after market ceramic pads is made assuming the OP's car has milage already that puts the brake pads outside warranty. I think this mileage limit is 12000 miles. After that it is a fight to get MB do any warranty work on the brakes.

If your brake pedal moves more than normal while braking you must have a problem. The brake system is designed so that the brake pistons keep the pads at the brake rotor when the pasd wear, i.e. what you should see is the brake fluid level go down when the pads wear but the brake pedal stroke should not change.

Air in the system would do what you explain but it is difficult to understand how air would have gotten inside the system.

Water in the system does not change how the system works. Water is incompressable fluid just like the brake fluid is.

The reason water is not used as a fluid is that it has no lubrication properties and it is corrosive for the system. It has nothing to do with braking force and how the system works other that when enough water is in the system long enough time you can expect corrosion issues and that can affect the function. This would mean a lot of water in it though, like pouring it in the system and not just by absorption.

I know when my cheap relatives and wife don't change their brake fluid at the 2 year mark, around 2.5 years their brake pedal gets really mushy and stopping power gets nearly non-existant. After a brake flush, pedal gets firm and stopping power goes back to normal.

Last time I watched the indy shop flush the brake fluid and besides the slightly yellowish brake fluid, there was some clear fluid that came out, which the shop explained as moisture absorbed from the air and as the cause for the mushy pedal feel.

If you mean long soft pedal move with the "mushy" feel it is not caused by water. If the pedal moves more than normal there is gas, i.e. most likely air in the system. Water does not compress but gas does.

If you are getting a mushy feel then there is a leak somewhere. Air is getting into the system. Trying pumping your brakes and see if they get harder. If they do your master cylinder is starting to go.