So i got my front breaks replaced about 2 weeks ago, and its developed a rather bad squeal while breaking at low speeds. Is this a normal break in period thing? or should i go complain.....first time ive gotten breaks done so not sure i should be expecting.

 

I would think that they should be no different than your original brakes. I would give them a chance to seat, and, then, if the squealing does not subside, see the dealer. There is a bulletin about some zinc spray to prevent rust and squealing somewhere on this site.

 

Hmm, the old ones were worn out but had not gotten to the squeak yet. Its entirely new with the replacements. I'll give it till the end of the week (which would make it roughly 3-4 weeks since they were replaced) and if its still there ill see the dealer again. Thanks!

 

I've been told sooo many things about brake squealing after pad/rotor replacedment .. I'm not sure what exactly to believe.

Historically, however, in my experience if there was squealing that did not go away in a couple weeks, it was a glazed rotor or a bad pad. And a replacement pad resolved it or it was resolved with rotor resurfacing or replacement.

Best of luck.

 

Shot an email back over to the shop, they say it may need to be 're-bedded' and so im going on this friday when im off work and they will take care of it. Easy enough Hate being that person pulling into a parking lot or driving through town in the $80k benz that squeaks like its a rusted up Honda! Friend texted me the other night that he could hear me coming from 2 blocks away when i stopped at a light lol

 

Break in for brakes is a hot topic with split of those for and those against it.
I am strongly in favor after reading/researching the topic. Virtually all of the aftermarket rotor/pad companies recommend the process.
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From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 10-15 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.

The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.
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I would do this myself, not let the shop do it for you. Hint: just south of Prescott, WI is perfect for the process, back in the valleys that drain into the river. Perfect roads, minimal traffic allow these maneuvers that shouldn't be done in traffic.
I also read several scientific papers on the topic, by neutral researchers who agree and there were pages of scientific reasons why it is needed.
It is designed to improve brake performance and reduce squeals and reduce dust. If something is truly wrong with your brake job, this may not fix it.

That happened to me, had an independent no full brakes on my ML. Horrible squeal as they picked very bad choice of rotors/pads. Very best combo I've found is ceramic pads and Zimmerman rotors. The pads had a name like Euro Sport--can't find receipt.
Good luck.
After this process, the rotors should a slight blue tint to show the proper transfer has taken place.

 

Great advice! Ill do my best to try that around the cities sometime this week, difficult tho it may be given traffic. Else theres no real harm in letting them re-set them friday and then try this over the weekend. I went to Imola, tho didnt really check what brand they were putting on, but given that in the bays next to me were 4 Porsches, a McLaren, and several RS 4/5s, they arent a shop to cheap out on crap parts....

 

"cheap out on crap parts..." could mean they use the original MB parts, which by a lot of posts in this forum mean they are the cheapest crap for brakes you can buy.

First step to cure the problem, after the "bedding process" does not solve the issue is to change the pads to ceramic.

Bedding is something that some people believe in and some don't. I do not. If bedding of brakes was needed then every new car that leaves the dealer would need it and we all know this is not true. If it was the cars needing it would not sell many. And you can just imagine if all people with new brakes would be doing the bedding of brakes on the highways as MinnBobber explains...

Squealing brakes most likely is an issue with bad quality brake components, i.e. pads and/or rotors.

If the place you had the brakes done indeed use MB parts they probably used the "old" before update rotors that have the problem. Search the forum for it, I can't remember the topic of the thread...

 

One of dozens of brake pad/rotor manufacturers/retailers/brake engineers/ scientists that recommend bedding:

"Bedding In Brake Rotors

Anytime you install new brake rotors, brake pads, or both, it’s advantageous to bed in your new brakes. Bedding in your brakes is just an industry term to explain breaking in your new brakes. Bedding in your brakes helps transfer an even layer of brake pad material onto the brake rotor which assists in smoother brake operation and improved braking power.

Having a uniform layer of pad material on the brake rotor is essential to minimizing brake squeal and vibration. For this procedure, you will need a good stretch of road and no traffic."

Is it necessary/required? Absolutely not.
If you want better brake performance, is it highly recommended by experts?
Absolutely.
Why doesn't MB recommend it? IMO, you'd have customers doing it in traffic and getting rear ended = big law$uit$ as they'd say MB told them to do it.

I literally found dozens of articles and papers, written by scientists, engineers, manufacturers who spent thousands of hours and millions of dollars researching this issue, with no bias, just looking to establish how brakes work and how to make them work better. Results: I never found a single research source who said they would NOT recommend. It was universal as to the benefits.
If folks don't want the benefits, don't do it. Your brakes will still work, just not up to their potential.

Good luck.