E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550
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Illuminated Star Installation help!

Old Dec 25, 2014 | 09:28 AM
  #51  
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actually mine is tapped directly into the fuse panel at fuse 23. You can see where it is connected directly to the fuse No splicing
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 10:42 PM
  #52  
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2014 GLK350
i have it tapped to that fuse as well. only problem is sometimes the star lights up randomly when the car is off. I had the led lighting package if that might cause a problem?
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 11:18 PM
  #53  
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It more than likely is touching another fuse where it has been rubbing on and the bouncing of the car is causing it to rub on the other fuse and that causes it to go on some times. There has to be a short somewhere and it is touching something. I would pull the wire out of the panel and tape it and put it back in. Try it and see if it works.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 03:48 PM
  #54  
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Fuse taps are really a no-no. They spread the fuse clips out and can cause shorts.

The best way to do this for advanced people is to use the lighting wire to control a relay. The contacts on the relay go directly to the battery with a fuse in-line to protect the light up star. Bosch makes automotive relays that are for this purpose that cost <$10

This way you don't overload your lighting circuit or cause any other weirdness to influence the cars computer because you isolate the circuits through the relay.
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Old May 1, 2016 | 04:38 AM
  #55  
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Don't tap on any working fuse, the best way is to wire 12 v from socket front/back by using add a fuse.
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Old May 1, 2016 | 06:13 PM
  #56  
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I guess I am really lucky. For over 50 years I have been taping onto fuses. Each and every car I have owned. Not once have I had any sort of problem. I have found that if done properly you can use the fuse that you want to connect to. I would really like to see how the add a fuse works with using the fuse you need to connect to in order to have it go on when you want it to go on. For the illuminated grill I believe it was fuse 23 under the hood. Just a lucky guy when it comes to tapping. I had no idea there was another way to do it. I guess I am just old school and do not keep up with what is new but I am always willing to learn.
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Old May 2, 2016 | 11:45 AM
  #57  
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dbldpr - When I was in college I used to install automotive electronics. I installed high-end car audio, cruise control, alarm systems, phones, lights, etc... I'm now an electrical engineer.

There are a few issues with using fuse taps.

1. They expand the fuse clips to the point that they sometimes over time will fail to work properly.

2. The fuse tap is sourcing additional power off a circuit designed for 'x' amount of milliamps. Some cars can actually throw codes doing this - especially high end luxury cars with the new LED lighting systems.

The proper way to add ANY new electrically operated device to a car, is to run a new line directly from the battery. You properly size and fuse the new feed. To control the operation of the system tied into another system you drive the new system off of a control relay. The control relay is a small electro-mechanical device that draws very little current and essentially functions as a switch. The power for your new item is fed off the battery then not an existing system.

Connections to the existing system (say for example the lighting circuit) should be opened up where you remove about 1/4" of the insulation off the power wire, solder a new connection to this and tape and shrink wrap up the soldered connection.

There is a proper way to do things in a car environment so the work lasts forever. There are of course short cuts, but I'd caution anyone from doing them in a expensive luxury car. That method may have worked 50 years ago, but since 1990 I've been doing this stuff the correct way and can tell you how you should be doing it today.
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Old Sep 1, 2016 | 09:43 PM
  #58  
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2004 SL500, 2014 E350
These LED stars do not draw that much current and it would not overload ANY circuit that is fused in the car, especially something like a 10A fuse

Does it need a separate ciruit?
Amplifiers... Yes. Old style light bulbs... Maybe. Led lights... No way.
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Old Oct 6, 2016 | 03:52 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by a13482214704
Ph350's post is a little bit off, it comes with the star and two different wires,it DOES NOT come with a ballast. The second generation lights up all the time when the engine is on ( Which is the one I have just installed on my car) , it DOES NOT light up when you just unlock the door. ONLY when the engine is on. The brightness of the star is pretty good at night buy far dimmer than the DLR lights, basically,you can't see it at all under daylight.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261447933097...84.m1497.l2649

Above is the ebay store I bought mine, the seller is a NJ Mercedes dealer, but the parts I received were directly sent from MBUSA , not from the dealer, so I guess the dealer sent the order directly to MBUSA.

I have instructions for both the 1st gen star which only lights up when you unlock the door and shuts down when you start the engine. ( But the brightness is same as the DLR LED)
AND the second gen when it lights up all the time when engine is on ( BUT the brightness is far less than the DLR LED, you can only see it at night)


If anyone need these, just send me the email and I'll be happy to send you the instructions.
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Old Jan 4, 2017 | 06:14 PM
  #60  
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W212
Star installation

Originally Posted by a13482214704
Ph350's post is a little bit off, it comes with the star and two different wires,it DOES NOT come with a ballast. The second generation lights up all the time when the engine is on ( Which is the one I have just installed on my car) , it DOES NOT light up when you just unlock the door. ONLY when the engine is on. The brightness of the star is pretty good at night buy far dimmer than the DLR lights, basically,you can't see it at all under daylight.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261447933097...84.m1497.l2649

Above is the ebay store I bought mine, the seller is a NJ Mercedes dealer, but the parts I received were directly sent from MBUSA , not from the dealer, so I guess the dealer sent the order directly to MBUSA.

I have instructions for both the 1st gen star which only lights up when you unlock the door and shuts down when you start the engine. ( But the brightness is same as the DLR LED)
AND the second gen when it lights up all the time when engine is on ( BUT the brightness is far less than the DLR LED, you can only see it at night)


If anyone need these, just send me the email and I'll be happy to send you the instructions.

Hello!

Could you send me the1st gen star instruction.

Thanks
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Old Jan 18, 2017 | 08:29 AM
  #61  
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What does the yellow/black pin 13 wire give power to?
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Old Jan 18, 2017 | 10:11 AM
  #62  
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Head lamp flasher, heated steering wheel, linguatronic is what my chart says
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 05:05 PM
  #63  
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What is the best way to tap into fuse 23? Does anyone have a picture of this?

Thanks
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 05:15 PM
  #64  
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Most people do not like what I did but it works
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 01:49 PM
  #65  
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Mercedes Benz E class 250 cdi coupe
Guys! I need help with installation please!? I have the below parts
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 01:51 PM
  #66  
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Mercedes Benz E class 250 cdi coupe




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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 01:52 PM
  #67  
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Mercedes Benz E class 250 cdi coupe
I dont want to do any splicing btw i am from london if thats relevant to my model preface lift e coupe
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 09:15 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by tasty
i have it tapped to that fuse as well. only problem is sometimes the star lights up randomly when the car is off. I had the led lighting package if that might cause a problem?

I also have the LED lights and can hear a control module "Clicking" on/off at the same time as the star randomly turns on. anyone figure this out?
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Old Mar 26, 2017 | 11:34 AM
  #69  
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Mercedes Benz E class 250 cdi coupe
Hi guys,

So i managed to fit the light but it only turns on when i drive and it does not come on when i open the car...
can anyone help me!?
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Old Mar 26, 2017 | 01:01 PM
  #70  
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Mercedes Benz E class 250 cdi coupe


I tried 23 did not work! Now its on 24 and i have left it there until i get a solution
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Old Mar 31, 2017 | 09:08 PM
  #71  
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Hey DBLDPR, The red tap you have is going to what looks like fuse #3 to me, is that right? Also, when you say tap, are you just pushing the cable in with the fuse?
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 08:18 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by who8888
Hey DBLDPR, The red tap you have is going to what looks like fuse #3 to me, is that right? Also, when you say tap, are you just pushing the cable in with the fuse?
For the star I used fuse #23. What is used now is a piggy back fuse. You can buy them in an auto supply store. It is a fuse that is on top of where the original fuse was. You have a 15 year car mine is a 14. I do not know if that makes a difference. Originally I just slid a clip next to the fuse I needed but everyone said that is a no no so I purchased several piggy back fuses and swapped them out. They work much better.
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 06:40 PM
  #73  
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Any chance you can show a pic of how yours is now setup on the fuse box side?
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 07:57 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by who8888
Any chance you can show a pic of how yours is now setup on the fuse box side?
I will take a picture tomorrow for you
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Old Apr 30, 2017 | 10:07 AM
  #75  
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Just received my lighted star, but need help.........

I see the wire tapped into the fuse location, but what do you actually do to the wire to make the tap? Do you wrap each wire around each metal base of the fuse and reinsert it into the fuse panel. I know nothing about this kind of stuff, but want to do it myself if possible.
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