traded in my C class for 12 E350 Harman K system where is sub? want 2 install amp/sub
11-13-2014, 02:21 PM
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2012 E350 4-matic SPORT
traded in my C class for 12 E350 Harman K system where is sub? want 2 install amp/sub
Fist post on this side of the forum: former 2010 C class owner
before I traded in my C class I took out the JL Audio Slash 1000/1v2 Mono Amp
and Two JL Audio 13TW5-3 13.5" Sub 2000W Thin-Line Car Subs not sure if I want to install all that in the new car yet
I like the way the Karman Kardon but I need more base!
I did some searching around on the old post but didn't really find anything I could use
-Where is the OEM subwoofer amp located? and I can just disconnect it and feed the signal to a small subwoofer (maybe bazooka subwoofer)?
-or can I pass that signal to my amp and just worry about getting a dedicated power line from the battery to the amp
before I traded in my C class I took out the JL Audio Slash 1000/1v2 Mono Amp
and Two JL Audio 13TW5-3 13.5" Sub 2000W Thin-Line Car Subs not sure if I want to install all that in the new car yet
I like the way the Karman Kardon but I need more base!
I did some searching around on the old post but didn't really find anything I could use
-Where is the OEM subwoofer amp located? and I can just disconnect it and feed the signal to a small subwoofer (maybe bazooka subwoofer)?
-or can I pass that signal to my amp and just worry about getting a dedicated power line from the battery to the amp
11-13-2014, 10:30 PM
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w212 E550
The Sub is in the rear deck.. if you look under the rear deck you will see a small squarish metal box with a fan on it... that is the subwoofer amp.
There is a multi-pin connector on the side of it with colored wires.
THe Black wire is the remote turn on lead, there is a Brown and a Yellow small guage wire, those are your pre (before) amp signals, those are 6 volt lines and can go directly to your amplifier inputs
There is a multi-pin connector on the side of it with colored wires.
THe Black wire is the remote turn on lead, there is a Brown and a Yellow small guage wire, those are your pre (before) amp signals, those are 6 volt lines and can go directly to your amplifier inputs
11-14-2014, 11:04 AM
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MBWorld Fanatic!
The Sub is in the rear deck.. if you look under the rear deck you will see a small squarish metal box with a fan on it... that is the subwoofer amp.
There is a multi-pin connector on the side of it with colored wires.
THe Black wire is the remote turn on lead, there is a Brown and a Yellow small guage wire, those are your pre (before) amp signals, those are 6 volt lines and can go directly to your amplifier inputs
There is a multi-pin connector on the side of it with colored wires.
THe Black wire is the remote turn on lead, there is a Brown and a Yellow small guage wire, those are your pre (before) amp signals, those are 6 volt lines and can go directly to your amplifier inputs
Silly question:
Would it be possible just to install a new amp replacing the OEM amp using the existing sub in the car? I think the sub volume is just set too low and there is no control for it other than the "flimsy" Base selector under the "Sound" tab. A new amp with manual volume setting could fix the issue without trouble of installing a new big speaker in the car...?
11-15-2014, 09:22 PM
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2012 E350 4-matic SPORT
papromike Thanks for the valuable information!
To break it down barney style:
The black wire is the wire that is going to on and off my aftermarket sub amp right?
Brown/Yellow will be the the audio input to the amp right? the red and white rca type right?
So basically I just need to get the amp gauge power wire from the battery and the rest is that much easy right?
I can just leave the OEM amp/sub in place since they will be disconnected and just sitting there right
To break it down barney style:
The black wire is the wire that is going to on and off my aftermarket sub amp right?
Brown/Yellow will be the the audio input to the amp right? the red and white rca type right?
So basically I just need to get the amp gauge power wire from the battery and the rest is that much easy right?
I can just leave the OEM amp/sub in place since they will be disconnected and just sitting there right
