traded in my C class for 12 E350 Harman K system where is sub? want 2 install amp/sub
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Fist post on this side of the forum: former 2010 C class owner
before I traded in my C class I took out the JL Audio Slash 1000/1v2 Mono Amp
and Two JL Audio 13TW5-3 13.5" Sub 2000W Thin-Line Car Subs not sure if I want to install all that in the new car yet
I like the way the Karman Kardon but I need more base!
I did some searching around on the old post but didn't really find anything I could use
-Where is the OEM subwoofer amp located? and I can just disconnect it and feed the signal to a small subwoofer (maybe bazooka subwoofer)?
-or can I pass that signal to my amp and just worry about getting a dedicated power line from the battery to the amp
before I traded in my C class I took out the JL Audio Slash 1000/1v2 Mono Amp
and Two JL Audio 13TW5-3 13.5" Sub 2000W Thin-Line Car Subs not sure if I want to install all that in the new car yet
I like the way the Karman Kardon but I need more base!
I did some searching around on the old post but didn't really find anything I could use
-Where is the OEM subwoofer amp located? and I can just disconnect it and feed the signal to a small subwoofer (maybe bazooka subwoofer)?
-or can I pass that signal to my amp and just worry about getting a dedicated power line from the battery to the amp
Member
The Sub is in the rear deck.. if you look under the rear deck you will see a small squarish metal box with a fan on it... that is the subwoofer amp.
There is a multi-pin connector on the side of it with colored wires.
THe Black wire is the remote turn on lead, there is a Brown and a Yellow small guage wire, those are your pre (before) amp signals, those are 6 volt lines and can go directly to your amplifier inputs
There is a multi-pin connector on the side of it with colored wires.
THe Black wire is the remote turn on lead, there is a Brown and a Yellow small guage wire, those are your pre (before) amp signals, those are 6 volt lines and can go directly to your amplifier inputs
Quote:
There is a multi-pin connector on the side of it with colored wires.
THe Black wire is the remote turn on lead, there is a Brown and a Yellow small guage wire, those are your pre (before) amp signals, those are 6 volt lines and can go directly to your amplifier inputs
Originally Posted by papromike
The Sub is in the rear deck.. if you look under the rear deck you will see a small squarish metal box with a fan on it... that is the subwoofer amp.There is a multi-pin connector on the side of it with colored wires.
THe Black wire is the remote turn on lead, there is a Brown and a Yellow small guage wire, those are your pre (before) amp signals, those are 6 volt lines and can go directly to your amplifier inputs
Silly question:
Would it be possible just to install a new amp replacing the OEM amp using the existing sub in the car? I think the sub volume is just set too low and there is no control for it other than the "flimsy" Base selector under the "Sound" tab. A new amp with manual volume setting could fix the issue without trouble of installing a new big speaker in the car...?
Member
That Tiny sub wont take too much oomph plus its going through processor
so I would say No
THe factory amp, really isnt enough to drive an aftermarket sub,
so I would say No
THe factory amp, really isnt enough to drive an aftermarket sub,
papromike Thanks for the valuable information!
To break it down barney style:
The black wire is the wire that is going to on and off my aftermarket sub amp right?
Brown/Yellow will be the the audio input to the amp right? the red and white rca type right?
So basically I just need to get the amp gauge power wire from the battery and the rest is that much easy right?
I can just leave the OEM amp/sub in place since they will be disconnected and just sitting there right
To break it down barney style:
The black wire is the wire that is going to on and off my aftermarket sub amp right?
Brown/Yellow will be the the audio input to the amp right? the red and white rca type right?
So basically I just need to get the amp gauge power wire from the battery and the rest is that much easy right?
I can just leave the OEM amp/sub in place since they will be disconnected and just sitting there right
