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Hi everyone, I recently purchased 2010 E350 4MATIC so because it's out of the warranty I decided to change oil myself and I'm kind of puzzled with result.
I used Mityvac 7201 to extract all the oil, and I was able to extract only 5 quarts.
I checked oil level before extraction on dipstick and it was to the max line. I checked oil level after the extraction and dipstick was completely dry.
At this point I was panicking that there was not enough oil in the engine even though there was no notification on the display about it.
I tried couple more times to suck if there is anything left with Mityvac however there was nothing left.
I checked in owner's manual and I found that capacity should be 8.5 quarts. I poured new oil in afterwards and I could pour only about 5 quarts. I checked on the dipstick and it showed to the max line. I went for a 15 min ride and watched my oil temp which stayed entire time around 80 degrees which is good. 20 minutes after I parked my car I went again and checked oil level on the dipstick and it showed that it's to the max line, and the oil on the dipstick was yellow so I know it's the fresh oil and that it didn't mix with any old oil that I was expecting to be left because I couldn't fill the entire 8.5 quarts.
So I have all the oil brand new, and it's showing to the max line on the dipstick, engine doesn't heat up any more then usual. Why do I have only 5 quarts of oil and manual says that it should be 8.5.
Does anyone have any idea what's going on?
I'd be interested to know what is going on as well. I plan on doing the oil when it's due next year and will be using a vacuum extraction system that I used on my older c230, my neighbors C320 and my Tundra pickup. Not sure about your mityvac, but the machine I have has several different diameter extraction tubes for use which may make a difference. I'll make sure I empty the tank first so I can measure out how much used oil comes out.
Yes, I did tried to push hose further but it didn't go anymore. I felt that it hit the bottom with solid stop. I had my father there as well because he wanted to see how fluid extractor works, so he gave it a shot too. Stopped at the same spot.
We took a hose completely out of the dipstick tube and tried 3-4 times with same result and when pumping it sounded like ****ing on the straw in empty cup, same as I read about it in fluid extraction blogs.
Then, after extracting the oil when I inserted dipstick in, it was clean with no oil on it.
I measured the hose prior to inserting with dipstick to have approximate how far should I go and that was on the money as well.
I mean, if I had 3.5 quarts left in the engine that had to show, if nowhere after I ran it it would mix with new one and when I would be checking it afterwards it wouldn't stay clean yellow oil on the dipstick.
I'm really confused on this one.
I drive about 5k a year so when I'm due next year in December for the next one I'll drain it myself to see what's going on. With short daily commute I'm going to be ok even if I added 5 quarts of new oil to some old one. Problem is that I don't get a read anywhere that I have any old oil left in the engine.
Short drives is when sludge will build up most in an engine since the oil does not reach its best operating temperature for a long enough period of time to help clean the engine.
I prefer that the oil be drained out using the drain plug to help prevent sludge buildup in the bottom of the oil pan.
Kent Bergsma on youtube (MercedesSource.com) actually recommends oil extraction over opening the plug and draining it out, not because its much cleaner and you don't have to get underneath and remove splash shields but because it is possible that the drain plug doesnt sit low enough. You can watch for yourself here:
From what I understand, its how the dealer does oil changes as well.
As long as it gets changed when it's due is what is important, but I don't think you would be leaving sludge in the bottom of the pan by removing it from the dipstick tube.
Yes, I did tried to push hose further but it didn't go anymore. I felt that it hit the bottom with solid stop. I had my father there as well because he wanted to see how fluid extractor works, so he gave it a shot too. Stopped at the same spot.
We took a hose completely out of the dipstick tube and tried 3-4 times with same result and when pumping it sounded like ****ing on the straw in empty cup, same as I read about it in fluid extraction blogs.
Then, after extracting the oil when I inserted dipstick in, it was clean with no oil on it.
I measured the hose prior to inserting with dipstick to have approximate how far should I go and that was on the money as well.
I mean, if I had 3.5 quarts left in the engine that had to show, if nowhere after I ran it it would mix with new one and when I would be checking it afterwards it wouldn't stay clean yellow oil on the dipstick.
I'm really confused on this one.
I noticed when I was using it for my son's Solara that when I was about 1 quart out, it made that slurping noise. I then checked the hose connection on the pump end. I took the hose out and then put it back in that connection. Then reinserted the dipstick end in again got it to flow back to normal and got the remaining oil out. I can't speak as to where the extra 3.5 quarts went or didn't go....sorry on that part.
Hi everyone, I recently purchased 2010 E350 4MATIC so because it's out of the warranty I decided to change oil myself and I'm kind of puzzled with result.
I used Mityvac 7201 to extract all the oil, and I was able to extract only 5 quarts.
I checked oil level before extraction on dipstick and it was to the max line. I checked oil level after the extraction and dipstick was completely dry.
At this point I was panicking that there was not enough oil in the engine even though there was no notification on the display about it.
I tried couple more times to suck if there is anything left with Mityvac however there was nothing left.
I checked in owner's manual and I found that capacity should be 8.5 quarts. I poured new oil in afterwards and I could pour only about 5 quarts. I checked on the dipstick and it showed to the max line. I went for a 15 min ride and watched my oil temp which stayed entire time around 80 degrees which is good. 20 minutes after I parked my car I went again and checked oil level on the dipstick and it showed that it's to the max line, and the oil on the dipstick was yellow so I know it's the fresh oil and that it didn't mix with any old oil that I was expecting to be left because I couldn't fill the entire 8.5 quarts.
So I have all the oil brand new, and it's showing to the max line on the dipstick, engine doesn't heat up any more then usual. Why do I have only 5 quarts of oil and manual says that it should be 8.5.
Does anyone have any idea what's going on?
Was the engine, i.e. the oil hot when you pumped it out?
Its 7.4 qts not 8.5. 4matic has one litre less than rwd because of extra hardware near the pan. It took me a lot of time and multiple passes before all of it came out. It was done on cold oil and car sitting for a long time to drain it all down. Plastic tubing has to be strong and has to slightly curve. Slurping is not an indication to stop as air bubbles seep in constantly causing suction loss. It was a pain to collect all of it separated by few hours for next pass. But later poured in syntec 0w40 and put bosch filter. 76mm filter wrench I think I used with 14 flutes cant remember. Engine purred and it was a lot better. I also changed drive belt oem poly v-belt and it eliminated all squeaks from the front.. It was so easy.. Loosened the tensioner with 17mm socket for my 3/8 ratchet and voila.. Lot of space. Made it sound like new but pity the car got totaled.. Was just beginning to bond with it. I was making plans on changing transfer case and differential fluids since there was drive line noise. Also tranny fluid change for 722.960 which has drain plug for torque converter. I too bought a 2010 e350 4matic in nov. Had it only for a week or two.. But yeah suction wasnt as easy as they make it sound. That being said I have to admit I was a bit disillusioned about MBs since at 55k miles it it didnt feel like being as solid as many lesser cars. The whole idea of not going with a new car costing the same as a used MB was based on assumption of reliability. But if drive belts are disintegrating for such low miles and drive train making noises doesnt inspire confidence.
I've changed the oil 3x on mine already and the way I managed to do it is by removing the hard plastic "straw" and only using the softer tube and seal it up against the dipstick tube creating true vacuum. I could suck out all the oil this way, no problems. I use it the same way on my wife's Audi A4 as well.
I just did my first one with the evacuator and the same thing happened. I was not expecting to only get 5 liters out. It left me thinking "now what the hell do I do?" Previously only used the drain plug under the car. Think I should change it again sooner than 10k next time?
I thought maybe it was low but it didn't need the full 8 L and after reading these stories it sounds like not the best way (or at least the way they tell you in the manual is not the best way). Greg's way makes sense and I might try it next time.
I thought the tool would save time and effort but now it sounds like the drain plug way might be easier. Pumping a hundred times wasn't much better than having to climb under the car.
Edit - sal posted about it having only 7.4 quarts but that's not what's in the manual. Where did you get that info? Also if you have anything on changing the v-belt I'd like to see it. I've been thinking about doing mine since it squeaks from time to time (usually in d with foot on brake sitting still)
Last edited by aeroconfigs; Dec 10, 2014 at 07:11 PM.
I just did my first one with the evacuator and the same thing happened. I was not expecting to only get 5 liters out. It left me thinking "now what the hell do I do?" Previously only used the drain plug under the car. Think I should change it again sooner than 10k next time?
I thought maybe it was low but it didn't need the full 8 L and after reading these stories it sounds like not the best way (or at least the way they tell you in the manual is not the best way). Greg's way makes sense and I might try it next time.
I thought the tool would save time and effort but now it sounds like the drain plug way might be easier. Pumping a hundred times wasn't much better than having to climb under the car.
Edit - sal posted about it having only 7.4 quarts but that's not what's in the manual. Where did you get that info? Also if you have anything on changing the v-belt I'd like to see it. I've been thinking about doing mine since it squeaks from time to time (usually in d with foot on brake sitting still)
I did not see a reply to this question from the O.P. but did you have the engine and oil hot when you pumped it out?
I thought the tool would save time and effort but now it sounds like the drain plug way might be easier. Pumping a hundred times wasn't much better than having to climb under the car.
Edit - sal posted about it having only 7.4 quarts but that's not what's in the manual. Where did you get that info? Also if you have anything on changing the v-belt I'd like to see it. I've been thinking about doing mine since it squeaks from time to time (usually in d with foot on brake sitting still)
Yeah you dont want to know how many times I pumped..
4 matic has a wierd drive shaft mechanism that sticks out of transfer case driving a front differential that is sitting close to the right wheel.. no wonder subaru drones on and on about "symmetrical" awd.. their drive shafts are equal in size and symmetrical everywhere you look. This 4 matic sounds like an add on after thought and perhaps cheaper way to do it.. dont know.. anyways the transfer case on 4matic has slightly more fluid but the engine oil capcity is less.. I am talking about in relation to RWD model.. which I should have got.. will never get a 4matic or xdrive again.. they are noisy and spoil all the nice characteristics of these rwd cars.. Here are the pics for oil capacities and 4matic depiction. note that it is 7.4 qts vs 8.5 qts.. I think they meant 7 litres vs 8 litres in europe. I came pretty darn close to 7.4 before it was bone dry..
Poly v belt is easy peasy.. just tug at the 17mm bolt just below the tensioner pulley (small one right of the big crank pulley - right as in facing towards the car) remove belt.. let go of tensioner. put the new one from dealer (50 bucks or something) and thread it correctly and when ready push the tensioner bolt anti clock wise and let go to tighten the belt.
I just checked the oil after 3 days of running it after the oil change and the oil is still yellow color, and clean. If I had 2.5-3.5 quarts left of old oil on top of 5 at of new one, as what manual would say it's the total amount of oil 8.5qt, when it would mix together I would certainly not have a clean yellow oil on the dipstick.
OK maybe I have the wrong manual. I got mine online from the mb site because the car didn't have a physical book when I got it. For the 2010 e sedan one from the mb site, all 3 (350 rwd, bt and 4m) are the same, 8.5 qt. It doesnt have that separate line like the one you posted. I remember reading about some transmission changes around 2010 but didn't realize it might make that much of a difference.
Next time I do the change, I'm definitely lifting it and checking the drain plug after trying with the evacuator. I don't trust it after last time and with it getting a little higher in miles I want to make sure it's all getting out.
Thanks for the tips on the v-belt. Might try it out once it gets a little warmer outside and I can work in my garage comfortably again. I will say that the colder snowy months is when the 4matic proves its worth. I'll deal with the noisiness for the other 6-8 months because I love the surefooted feeling and the control when it's needed.
As a side note after lubing and putting the new rubber o rings onto the threads of filter housing procedure is to torque the filter back on with 25 nm which I think is 18 or 19 lb/ft. I just did ball park hand tightening with filter wrench. Also I wouldnt dare to do the tranny fluid change. Leave it to pros. You need 45 degree celsius temp on fluid. Infrared is not the way to go. Also you have to turn the crank pulley to line up the torque converter drain plug to a hole behind brace. Pump a lot of fluid from drain hole and special adapter. Also pan needs to be cleaned, gasket and magnets replaced along with fluid filter. Last but not least there is an asinine way of determining correct amount which requires waiting for excess fluid to pour until it starts trickling.. While rowing thru gears.. Meh. That said I know more about this car than I care considering I dont have it anymore and the short time I had it.
I just checked the oil after 3 days of running it after the oil change and the oil is still yellow color, and clean. If I had 2.5-3.5 quarts left of old oil on top of 5 at of new one, as what manual would say it's the total amount of oil 8.5qt, when it would mix together I would certainly not have a clean yellow oil on the dipstick.
Rather than going by the color of the oil on your dipstick, you should be focusing more on the volume of oil you replaced. You were only able to put 5 qt in and it matched the amount you took out. Nothing crazy is going on other than the evacuator not working well enough to take out all the old oil.
It could look like new oil if you're mixing at a quantity of 2:1. But it would not be possible to put in 7.5 or 8 qt if you only took out 5. It would be over the max level. Next time, I'm pulling the plug after I do the evacuator and that's what I'd recommend you do as well.
Had the engine running for 5-10 min until temp reached running temp of about 80-85 degrees. Oil was hot.
The temperature you see in the cluster is not oil temperature. It is the engine cooling system temperature. To get the oil hot you need to go drive the car around for a few miles.
When I change the oil I pump it out thru the dip stick hole. I used to buy a $7 hand operated plastic pump each time I got the oil but then bought a small electric pump for $15 or so that does the job well.
But, before I start the job I go drive for at least 15 miles. Usually I plan the job so that I do it after I make a long enough drive not needing to specifically to go drive for the oil change.
Reason why I do this is that when I did my second oil change on the E350 that I used to have I did not get all oil out just like you say. I got only about 6 qt and also was worried why because the first time I did it all oil came out. Then I realized I had the car sitting almost an hour before I started the pumping and this was enough to cool the oil down and all of it did not come out.
I'm thinking there must be some pocket where the oil sits and has a rather small opening to flow out from and if the oil is not very hot it does not come out fast enough to get to the pump suction or just wont come out at all leaving that oil in the engine.
I have not had any problems at all since I have made sure the oil is hot when I pump it out and I mean it is so hot it burns my fingers when I touch the plastic tube while pumping.
Hi everyone, I recently purchased 2010 E350 4MATIC so because it's out of the warranty I decided to change oil myself and I'm kind of puzzled with result.
I used Mityvac 7201 to extract all the oil, and I was able to extract only 5 quarts.
I checked oil level before extraction on dipstick and it was to the max line. I checked oil level after the extraction and dipstick was completely dry.
At this point I was panicking that there was not enough oil in the engine even though there was no notification on the display about it.
I tried couple more times to suck if there is anything left with Mityvac however there was nothing left.
I checked in owner's manual and I found that capacity should be 8.5 quarts. I poured new oil in afterwards and I could pour only about 5 quarts. I checked on the dipstick and it showed to the max line. I went
for a 15 min ride and watched my oil temp which stayed entire time around 80 degrees which is good. 20 minutes after I parked my car I went again and checked oil level on the dipstick and it showed that it's to the max line, and the oil on the dipstick was yellow so I know it's the fresh oil and that it didn't mix with any old oil that I was expecting to be left because I couldn't fill the entire 8.5 quarts.
So I have all the oil brand new, and it's showing to the max line on the dipstick, engine doesn't heat up any more then usual. Why do I have only 5 quarts of oil and manual says that it should be 8.5.
Does anyone have any idea what's going on?
You've left oil behind. I used the Mightyvac 6 times on my 2011 E350 and once on my current 2014 e350 cabrio. Got 8 quarts out on my 2011 and 7 on my 2014. Try sticking one of the rubber plugs into the dipstick tub..and insert the hose about 2 inches. The dipstick tube then acts like one of the plastic hoses and you don't need to worry about the tube kinking at the bottom.
You've left oil behind. I used the Mightyvac 6 times on my 2011 E350 and once on my current 2014 e350 cabrio. Got 8 quarts out on my 2011 and 7 on my 2014. Try sticking one of the rubber plugs into the dipstick tub..and insert the hose about 2 inches. The dipstick tube then acts like one of the plastic hoses and you don't need to worry about the tube kinking at the bottom.
Jim
I don't understand what you mean by "stick the rubber plug into the dipstick tub and insert the hose 2 inches". Can you show a pic or describe it differently?
Edit - do you mean to stick the suction tube all the way thru the rubber piece into the dipstick tube by two inches?
Last edited by aeroconfigs; Dec 11, 2014 at 06:55 PM.
You've left oil behind. I used the Mightyvac 6 times on my 2011 E350 and once on my current 2014 e350 cabrio. Got 8 quarts out on my 2011 and 7 on my 2014. Try sticking one of the rubber plugs into the dipstick tub..and insert the hose about 2 inches. The dipstick tube then acts like one of the plastic hoses and you don't need to worry about the tube kinking at the bottom.
Jim
Dipstick tube does not go to the bottom inside the engine.
Hi everyone, I recently purchased 2010 E350 4MATIC so because it's out of the warranty I decided to change oil myself and I'm kind of puzzled with result.
I used Mityvac 7201 to extract all the oil, and I was able to extract only 5 quarts.
I checked oil level before extraction on dipstick and it was to the max line. I checked oil level after the extraction and dipstick was completely dry.
At this point I was panicking that there was not enough oil in the engine even though there was no notification on the display about it.
I tried couple more times to suck if there is anything left with Mityvac however there was nothing left.
I checked in owner's manual and I found that capacity should be 8.5 quarts. I poured new oil in afterwards and I could pour only about 5 quarts. I checked on the dipstick and it showed to the max line. I went for a 15 min ride and watched my oil temp which stayed entire time around 80 degrees which is good. 20 minutes after I parked my car I went again and checked oil level on the dipstick and it showed that it's to the max line, and the oil on the dipstick was yellow so I know it's the fresh oil and that it didn't mix with any old oil that I was expecting to be left because I couldn't fill the entire 8.5 quarts.
So I have all the oil brand new, and it's showing to the max line on the dipstick, engine doesn't heat up any more then usual. Why do I have only 5 quarts of oil and manual says that it should be 8.5.
Does anyone have any idea what's going on?
Both my E350 2011 and my SLK320 2001 which are derivatives of the 3.2L V6 take 8 L of oil on an oil and filter change according to my service records. Hence I believe 8.5 US quarts should be correct.
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