Pre Safety Functions Limited
Any one have any idea on what this could be? The only thing I could think of would be something happened when I jumped the car. But if that was the case I would get a different error msg.
Any one have any idea on what this could be? The only thing I could think of would be something happened when I jumped the car. But if that was the case I would get a different error msg.
It is the original battery and is 5 years old know. Could it be that after going dead I just can't get the same level of charge back in it?
It is the original battery and is 5 years old know. Could it be that after going dead I just can't get the same level of charge back in it?
Last edited by noka; Jan 19, 2015 at 08:52 PM.
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Also, I doubt a 5 yr old battery is worth messing with after such a complete drain, seems these days 3-5 years is average battery life. I'd rather just change it out rather than mess with it and eventually wind up getting stuck somewhere.
An easy way to check charging is to check voltage at the battery terminals while the engine is running - should be about 14 to 14.5v.
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Agreed I think the battery might just be toast. Going to take it in and have it tested to see what the story is.
Anyone have a suggestion for a good battery to use? Or am I best just getting the OEM one?
Be sure to match the battery size and amperage ratings. Going over on the CCA's and rated amperage has never been an issue, it just means more capacity in the battery. By that I mean if the OEM battery was rated at 700 CCA, you can buy one rated at 750 CCA's as an example.
Be warned almost all batteries have increased in price over the last few years, so shop around. I buy based on capacity/warranty/price.
I just bought a new battery for the truck from Walmart, last one for a previous car was from Advance Auto, as mentioned I shop around. Your dealer may be competitive but IMO that may be doubtful lol.








Agreed I think the battery might just be toast. Going to take it in and have it tested to see what the story is.
Anyone have a suggestion for a good battery to use? Or am I best just getting the OEM one?
If you choose to go there ask them to read the codes from your car. If the sensors are not working there should be a code for it. Perhaps there is one saying "Low voltage" and ends the guessing game. They read the codes free but are not allowed to reset any by the law.




When you say main under the hood do you mean trunk. It was my understand the main is in the trunk and the aux is the one under the hood?
Last edited by konigstiger; Jan 22, 2015 at 02:38 PM.
...I was playing with the in dash setting and decided to do a factory re-set just for the sake of trying it. Well wouldn't you know it but that seems to have solved the problem. No more warning messages and all pre-safety functions are back up and running.
I'm still going to have the battery looked at over the weekend just to be safe but knock on wood everything is back up and running.
Thanks for all the advice too all!



