Help with 2014 E350 CPO negotiations
I've been a longtime lurker and finally joined to seek help with a 2014 CPO purchase. It's an E350 with 29k miles. It has the following optional accessories: P01, 137, 167, 287, 289, 881, 889, and 993. Originally listed as $47k which I thought was absurd. It has been sitting on the dealer lot for almost 3.5 months and they just "reduced" it to $40k.
I've found similarly spec'd CPO vehicles within 100 miles starting around $38-$39k.
Best case scenario for me is to try to get the car out the door at $35k. Worst case scenario would be to get the car at $35k plus TTL.
At what point will a dealer cut it losses? I mean, I'm sure they hate having a car take up a spot for almost 4 months.
Any ideas/strategies to get me there?
PS. it took me 6 months to find my last car before my 2015 in the right price range and clean carfax.
I've been a longtime lurker and finally joined to seek help with a 2014 CPO purchase. It's an E350 with 29k miles. It has the following optional accessories: P01, 137, 167, 287, 289, 881, 889, and 993. Originally listed as $47k which I thought was absurd. It has been sitting on the dealer lot for almost 3.5 months and they just "reduced" it to $40k.
I've found similarly spec'd CPO vehicles within 100 miles starting around $38-$39k.
Best case scenario for me is to try to get the car out the door at $35k. Worst case scenario would be to get the car at $35k plus TTL.
At what point will a dealer cut it losses? I mean, I'm sure they hate having a car take up a spot for almost 4 months.
Any ideas/strategies to get me there?
You said there are similarly spec'd CPO vehicles within 100 miles starting around $38-$39k, so why are you not buying those cars. There must be something about this particular car that is different. If the dealer just drop the price by $7000, it will be close to impossible for them to drop it another $5000. I think you will be lucky if you can get them to drop it another $500, forget the $5000. Dealers will not sell a car at a lost this soon, they will look at all avenues such as wholesale or auction before considering selling at a lost. The differentiator here is how much did the dealer pay for that car. If the dealer paid a lot, they might hang onto it for another year before considering their options.
If you like the car then go to Edmunds, KBB and TrueCar, price out the car with those options and mileage and bring that, along with the comps from other dealers, to the dealer and say "I like this car but it appears to be far more expensive than the comps. Why should I buy this car?"
The way the dealer responds will show you if you even want to buy anything from them.
This car doesn't have anything that would make me choose it over the comps (besides convenience). I'll definitely print out the comps and bring them with me. Hopefully being a return customer to the dealership will help.
Thanks again for the help and ideas. I'll keep y'all informed as we head out there tomorrow to test drive again and begin negotiations.
Trending Topics

The Best of Mercedes & AMG



