New member with questions about trim replacement
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Joined: Mar 2017
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2011 Mercedes E350 Cabriolet
New member with questions about trim replacement
Hi everyone,
New guy here.
I bought a new to me 2011 E350 cabriolet. Very low mileage (27k). Vehicle history shows the car was always serviced at a dealership. I realize this is the sedan forum but it looks like this one is more heavily trafficked and my questions are really not specific.
There were some minor cosmetic issues that I knew about at the time of purchase and I was able to negotiate a fair price factoring that in.
First, is the peeling burl walnut trim. The two worst offenders are 1) the trim piece on the passenger side of the dash just above the glovebox and 2) the trim surround on the passenger door panel for the seat adjustment controls.
There were some other peeling problems but the previous owner did not attempt to fix them so I was able to.
The PO tried to fix these two and buggered them up.
I already have the replacement parts. My questions are about how to remove the old trim pieces.
For the dash trim, do I need to remove the glove box? Or do I simply use interior pry tools to pop the piece out?
It looks like I have to take the door panel off and the old piece snaps out and the new one snaps in? Any tips on door panel removal process?
Has anyone done this before? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
PS: I bought the Chilton DIY online shop manual and that thing is just about worthless. Step 1: Remove old part. Step 2: Install new part. It doesn't get more generic than that. Useless!
New guy here.
I bought a new to me 2011 E350 cabriolet. Very low mileage (27k). Vehicle history shows the car was always serviced at a dealership. I realize this is the sedan forum but it looks like this one is more heavily trafficked and my questions are really not specific.
There were some minor cosmetic issues that I knew about at the time of purchase and I was able to negotiate a fair price factoring that in.
First, is the peeling burl walnut trim. The two worst offenders are 1) the trim piece on the passenger side of the dash just above the glovebox and 2) the trim surround on the passenger door panel for the seat adjustment controls.
There were some other peeling problems but the previous owner did not attempt to fix them so I was able to.
The PO tried to fix these two and buggered them up.
I already have the replacement parts. My questions are about how to remove the old trim pieces.
For the dash trim, do I need to remove the glove box? Or do I simply use interior pry tools to pop the piece out?
It looks like I have to take the door panel off and the old piece snaps out and the new one snaps in? Any tips on door panel removal process?
Has anyone done this before? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
PS: I bought the Chilton DIY online shop manual and that thing is just about worthless. Step 1: Remove old part. Step 2: Install new part. It doesn't get more generic than that. Useless!
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 998
Likes: 136
From: VA
W212 E-class, W211 E-class, F10 5-Series
I already have the replacement parts. My questions are about how to remove the old trim pieces.
For the dash trim, do I need to remove the glove box? Or do I simply use interior pry tools to pop the piece out?
It looks like I have to take the door panel off and the old piece snaps out and the new one snaps in? Any tips on door panel removal process?
Has anyone done this before? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
For the dash trim, do I need to remove the glove box? Or do I simply use interior pry tools to pop the piece out?
It looks like I have to take the door panel off and the old piece snaps out and the new one snaps in? Any tips on door panel removal process?
Has anyone done this before? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
I am in the process of replacing some of my trim, too, with a different color; and I am wondering the same thing as you: how easy is this DIY?
Please share your findings/progress, and I will do the same.
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Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 24
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2011 Mercedes E350 Cabriolet
Will do, tresean1.
From my cursory looking around, it appears that trim peeling is a common problem. My theory is that you have two different materials -- the veneer and the underlying plastic -- with different expansion/contraction rates. Car bakes in the summer sun and over time this causes the veneer to separate.
For the damaged pieces I had no choice but to buy factory replacement parts. For the other peeling pieces I carefully peeled the veneer off. I remove the old glue using a scraper and a little sandpaper. Then I cleaned both sides with denatured alcohol.
If my theory about different expansion rates is correct, the proper glue to use would be something that could withstand high cabin temps but will also have a little 'give'. I would be wary of using any glue that crystallizes hard -- this is just going to cause a repeat of the problem. The trick is finding a glue that will allow for a small amount of expansion/contraction so I tried Weldwood cement. This is the glue that I used when restoring my old 911 and it has held up well over several years in an all black car.
When I am done with all this I am going to get the windows tinted with 3M Crystalline to help keep the cabin from getting too hot.
From my cursory looking around, it appears that trim peeling is a common problem. My theory is that you have two different materials -- the veneer and the underlying plastic -- with different expansion/contraction rates. Car bakes in the summer sun and over time this causes the veneer to separate.
For the damaged pieces I had no choice but to buy factory replacement parts. For the other peeling pieces I carefully peeled the veneer off. I remove the old glue using a scraper and a little sandpaper. Then I cleaned both sides with denatured alcohol.
If my theory about different expansion rates is correct, the proper glue to use would be something that could withstand high cabin temps but will also have a little 'give'. I would be wary of using any glue that crystallizes hard -- this is just going to cause a repeat of the problem. The trick is finding a glue that will allow for a small amount of expansion/contraction so I tried Weldwood cement. This is the glue that I used when restoring my old 911 and it has held up well over several years in an all black car.
When I am done with all this I am going to get the windows tinted with 3M Crystalline to help keep the cabin from getting too hot.
Last edited by AirCooledTiger; Jun 21, 2017 at 02:14 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 998
Likes: 136
From: VA
W212 E-class, W211 E-class, F10 5-Series
I am a bit confused:
you mentioned you peeled the veneer off...are you referring to the top lacquer coating, or the actual wood veneer?
You mentioned peeling, so I assumed that the top clearcoat was peeling...but are you saying your actual wood veneer was peeling from the underlying wood/plastic surface on each of the trim pieces?
you mentioned you peeled the veneer off...are you referring to the top lacquer coating, or the actual wood veneer?
You mentioned peeling, so I assumed that the top clearcoat was peeling...but are you saying your actual wood veneer was peeling from the underlying wood/plastic surface on each of the trim pieces?
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 998
Likes: 136
From: VA
W212 E-class, W211 E-class, F10 5-Series
Thanks, where did you get your replacement parts from? Dealer, or 3rd part OEM seller, or ebay/craigslist?
I am trying to find a reasonably priced source for my parts.
I am trying to find a reasonably priced source for my parts.
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2011 Mercedes E350 Cabriolet
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 24
Likes: 10
2011 Mercedes E350 Cabriolet
Ok I was able to replace the trim today. It is not a difficult job -- I was over-thinking what had to be done. 5-10 minutes per piece and I was done.
The first piece I needed to replace was the surround around the passenger side seat controls. The burl walnut veneer is glued to a plastic backing with clips in it. In my case the veneer delaminated from the plastic. Some previous owner tried to fix it and broke it.
I thought I would have to remove the door panel to access the surround but I didn't. I have a set of nylon interior trim tools for exactly this kind of job. I used a small pry tool and the entire module popped right out. Next I disconnected the wiring and I had the entire piece in my hand.
I then used another tool that looks like a letter opener to unclip the controls from the frame. The memory buttons are a separate module from the seat control but they connect to one another. Removed them from on the old plastic frame and installed them in the new frame. Reconnected the wiring and snapped the whole thing back into place.
The next piece was the burl walnut trim that is just above the glove box door. Same thing. A little light pry and it popped right out. Installation of the new piece was as easy and popping it into place.
No more cracked and broken trim!
The first piece I needed to replace was the surround around the passenger side seat controls. The burl walnut veneer is glued to a plastic backing with clips in it. In my case the veneer delaminated from the plastic. Some previous owner tried to fix it and broke it.
I thought I would have to remove the door panel to access the surround but I didn't. I have a set of nylon interior trim tools for exactly this kind of job. I used a small pry tool and the entire module popped right out. Next I disconnected the wiring and I had the entire piece in my hand.
I then used another tool that looks like a letter opener to unclip the controls from the frame. The memory buttons are a separate module from the seat control but they connect to one another. Removed them from on the old plastic frame and installed them in the new frame. Reconnected the wiring and snapped the whole thing back into place.
The next piece was the burl walnut trim that is just above the glove box door. Same thing. A little light pry and it popped right out. Installation of the new piece was as easy and popping it into place.
No more cracked and broken trim!
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 24
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2011 Mercedes E350 Cabriolet
It took me longer to change the cabin air filter and I was going slow since this was the first time I have worked on this car.
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 998
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From: VA
W212 E-class, W211 E-class, F10 5-Series
The ones that look like anodized metal? Yes, I tried it today as a matter of fact. They pop right off with a trim tool. The one on my driver door is scuffed so I'm going to order the replacement too.
It took me longer to change the cabin air filter and I was going slow since this was the first time I have worked on this car.
It took me longer to change the cabin air filter and I was going slow since this was the first time I have worked on this car.
Cool---I wanna replace mine with the burl wood trim, but was wondering if it was a super easy and straightforward swap. I already ordered my pieces.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 998
Likes: 136
From: VA
W212 E-class, W211 E-class, F10 5-Series
Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 127
Likes: 31
E550
Mine are faded bad and need to be replaced as well. i have the burl walnut veneer like you do.
The center console is the worse piece. Half of it is faded and the other half that was drawn into the console to expose the cup holders is like new.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 998
Likes: 136
From: VA
W212 E-class, W211 E-class, F10 5-Series
Where did you buy the trim from ?
Mine are faded bad and need to be replaced as well. i have the burl walnut veneer like you do.
The center console is the worse piece. Half of it is faded and the other half that was drawn into the console to expose the cup holders is like new.
Mine are faded bad and need to be replaced as well. i have the burl walnut veneer like you do.
The center console is the worse piece. Half of it is faded and the other half that was drawn into the console to expose the cup holders is like new.
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 97
Likes: 31
From: Houston, TX
2012 E350, P2
We need a brand new thread with instructions on how to remove the complete trim set. The burl wood trim on my 2012 are faded. I want to vinyl wrap them but too scared to remove fearing I might break the clips. There are no clear instructions anywhere on the web.
I'm also willing to pay a reasonable amount to a pro who can do it locally. I live in Houston, TX area.
I'm also willing to pay a reasonable amount to a pro who can do it locally. I live in Houston, TX area.
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 2
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MercedesE350 sedan and E350 convertible
Trim replacement question
I ordered these from Amazon, are your similar?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks! If the dealership doesn't offer to do it for free while my car is there, I will do it myself.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks! If the dealership doesn't offer to do it for free while my car is there, I will do it myself.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 24
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2011 Mercedes E350 Cabriolet
No glue is required. With a set of nylon trim tools the old trim pieces pop right out and the new ones pop right in. On a difficulty scale of 1-5with 5 being rebuilding an engine, this is as much a 1 as you’ll ever get.
Check out MBpartsdirect. They had pretty good pricing.
Check out MBpartsdirect. They had pretty good pricing.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 998
Likes: 136
From: VA
W212 E-class, W211 E-class, F10 5-Series
No glue is required. With a set of nylon trim tools the old trim pieces pop right out and the new ones pop right in. On a difficulty scale of 1-5with 5 being rebuilding an engine, this is as much a 1 as you’ll ever get.
Check out MBpartsdirect. They had pretty good pricing.
Check out MBpartsdirect. They had pretty good pricing.
Just be careful and patient, as you don't want to rush thru it and snap a few pieces or tabs.
Thread Starter
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2011 Mercedes E350 Cabriolet
To clarify, the veneer is attached to a plastic trim piece, so you’re replacing the whole piece, not just the veneer.
I thought the same thing at first. Once you do the first one you’ll immediately see how easy it is.
I thought the same thing at first. Once you do the first one you’ll immediately see how easy it is.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 998
Likes: 136
From: VA
W212 E-class, W211 E-class, F10 5-Series
