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I searched and found a thread addressing exactly this issue, but with no resolution.
How in the hell are you guys getting jackstands under your W212?
So if you use the factory jack or a floor jack with a pad, you still need to use the ONE jacking point at each corner. Then, with the car up on a jack, where do you then put the jackstand to lower it down on? The jackpoint is surrounded by plastic cladding and is now occupied by the jack that you need to remove!
And even if you were OK working under the factory jack or a padded floor jack, which you shouldn't be, what happens when you need to rotate your tires or do any other work that requires TWO corners off the ground?
WTF?
I even looked in the threads where you guys show the suspension work you've done, and it seems like step #1 is just "jack up car".
I am doing my 40,000-mile B service and need to change my oil, rotate my tires, and flush out my brake fluid as well as do the underbody inspections. I need to get all four wheels off the ground.
I had to put my E350 on jack stands while I sent my wheel away for chrome plating. See my beautifully art work!
How to lift the car up to place the jack stands under.
Chock the front tire.
Lift the rear by placing a floor jack under the rear differential.
Engage the parking brake.
Lift the front by placing the floor jack under the cross member under engine. Look under the car and you will see a rubber jack pad. You can't miss it.
While the car is on jack stands I flushed the brake system, power bleeder of course.
No problem what so ever!
Last edited by Peter_02AMG; Aug 22, 2017 at 03:26 PM.
Best purchase I made in years. You'll need the 5000-pound capacity. Takes me 2-3 minutes to prep and raise my car and <60 seconds to lower it.
If you want to use a floor jack, use the jacking point on the front frame cross-member and under the differential in the rear (using a piece of wood to keep from breaking the cooling fins if installed). This method, however, requires two to three iterations because if you raise one end of the car too high, you have to lower it so you can get the floor jack under the other end. Like I wrote earlier, the Quickjack was the best purchase in years.
Last edited by bbirdwell; Aug 22, 2017 at 03:21 PM.
But how did you then jack it up in the first place,
then get the jackstands in those spots with the jack in the way?
If I put my jack and my jackstands right next to each other on the ground, touching, the "heads" of both the jack and the jackstand are quite a bit further apart than the length of the jacking block on the car. In other words, I can't have both the jack and the jackstand on the block at the same time.
I just spent two hours outside trying to figure out how to make this work and I've gotten nowhere. I tried removing the jacking block (they're basically a removable block of solid high-density plastic held on with a great big flathead screw in the middle) and cutting a piece of wood to fit exactly in that spot but that didn't work. With the car up in the air, I'm either putting a stand under plastic cladding that covers the ENTIRE underside of the car, or I'm putting it under the exhaust.
Ramps also don't work, my chin spoiler hits WAY before a tire gets to the ramp. I figured if I could get ramps to work at least I could change the oil and stuff and just take it to the local guys to rotate tires.
I think the only real option I have is to go buy two new jacks that I really trust to hold the damn car up over my prone body, and do two wheels at a time REALLY fast. I don't trust my 20-year-old floor jack to do anything other than lift a car up to get jackstands under it, so I'll have to get two jacks I guess and just deal with it.
I can't swing a QuickJack just now and actually,
the bigger issue is having no place to store it when I'm not using it.
But, I CAN jack under the diff and under the front?
I figured the diff might be OK, glad you confirmed that. What is the front crossmember point? While I was under there I did notice a spot front and center that seemed like a deliberately exposed piece of metal surrounded by plastic cladding, with about a 2" hole in the center. Is that it? Can I jack under that hole?
Best purchase I made in years. You'll need the 5000-pound capacity. Takes me 2-3 minutes to prep and raise my car and <60 seconds to lower it.
If you want to use a floor jack, use the jacking point on the front frame cross-member and under the differential in the rear (using a piece of wood to keep from breaking the cooling fins if installed). This method, however, requires two to three iterations because if you raise one end of the car too high, you have to lower it so you can get the floor jack under the other end. Like I wrote earlier, the Quickjack was the best purchase in years.
Those are pretty cool too but you'd have to be careful and make sure your jack fits under them, or else you'd be buying a new jack, too.
I ordered a pair of the Rennstands, supposedly they're backordered 2-3 weeks. Looking at the adapters, I may need to fabricate my own to ft our jack points but that should be no big deal. Unless the pinch weld adapter happens to fit in our notch.
Has anyone used the quickjack on a w212 or does anyone know what the span of the lift points is?. I'm currently deciding on whether to trade in my Acura RL for a 2012 e350, but I have to determine if it will fit on my quickjack. I have the bl5000-ext and the maximum span is 66".
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